Rust specks from construction

[cardude01]

I recently had my boat compounded and waxed at the old slip in Pensacola, and it turned out well. However, across the marina there was a lot of construction and grinding of metal, and now I have some small rust specks in the gel coat.

I tried some Collinite “cleaner wax” that I had on hand and it got some of them out, but the larger specks that I can actually feel with my finger nail are still there. Any ideas on how to get these out? Would some rubbing compound work maybe?

 

[Comodave]

Not sure how exactly to remove the metal pieces but Fiberglass Stain Remover works well removing the rust stains on the gel coat.

 

[Cigatoo]

Barkeepers friend will remove the rust. If the gel coat is shiny do not rub as it is an abrasive. Just make a paste, apply, and give it 10 or 15 minutes to work.

 

[Comodave]

That is what is nice about FSR in that it isn’t an abrasive. It is some kind of mild acid. Davis makes it. I use gloves when I use it and just rub a bit and let it sit for a couple of minutes and the rust comes off.

 

[Comodave]

Thinking about removing the pieces of metal, maybe using something like a plastic putty knife to sorta flick them off??? I have some plastic stirring sticks that have a pointed end on them or some plastic spreaders. Or a softer Scotch Brite pad, but that may lead to scratches.

 

[cardude01]

The gel coat is really shiny where these imbedded specks are located so do t want to get too aggressive with abrasives. Might try some of that mild acid solution or whatever, and then compound and wax to seal it again.

 

[Comodave]

I would want to get the metal flakes off or they will continue to rust. How many are there? Who is responsible for this? Have you contacted them about how they damaged your boat?

 

[Hippocampus]

On and off or other acid will beach the stain but not remove the flecks. Any compounding or abrasive works by removing gel coat. Your boat is old enough I’d be concerned about removing too much gel coat to point of seeing print through. Might take the time to explore less aggressive interventions. If not deeply embedded a simple seriously strong magnet and some delicate working with a pin may be less injurious. Might want to remove all prior wax before starting as it may only be embedded In wax not gel coat. Like surgery there’s no do overs.

 

[cardude01]

I would want to get the metal flakes off or they will continue to rust. How many are there? Who is responsible for this? Have you contacted them about how they damaged your boat?

Palafox is where we were in Pensacola. Baylen Slips. Yes we are arguing with them, and they are blaming it on the construction company blah blah blah. It’s one of the reasons we left. That and their required hurricane marina evacuation.

There are quite a few on the bow deck that was facing the construction. Most of them come off without a huge problem but some of the larger ones are difficult. Lots of boats impacted. Many people mad.

 

[Bacchus]

I would try rither barkeepers, CLR, FSR, to see if it loosens whatever adhesion there us between the steel & fiberglas.
I will guess moisture on the surface held the small pieces in place long enough to rust and any one of the above might free it up.
Hi pressure water hose might even be enough to flush the pieces off. Then attack the stain.

 

[rgano]

I have been using Wink for years for this very problem. I get it at the grocery store or Wally Whirld. Driizle on, wait a while, hose off.

 

[Tomas]

Second Wink recommendation.

 

[Sealife]

Condolences, we had a similar issue during our refit. Metal boat next to us grinding in open air. Problem is the hot metal melts into the finish. Fortunately I was only half way through painting all the decks etc. I still have a few spots left, just clean the stains as part of normal maintenance until the metal shard rust completely away.

 

[fryedaze]

My neighbor boat cleaned his tuna tower with steel wool. The wind blew steel wool particles all over the boat. They rusted and stained the boat. Goof off rust stain remover works well. Wipe on wipe off. Downside is you must relax the boat.

 

[ragin cajun]

Seems to me that this construction outfit should hold accountability for damages to your boat. Lawyer-in-a-Can might be useful. Sorry to hear about your problem, hope it works out. I would not let the imbedded steel stay in the fiberglass. you'll be fighting this for a long time. What marina you moved to?

 

[Comodave]

Palafox is where we were in Pensacola. Baylen Slips. Yes we are arguing with them, and they are blaming it on the construction company blah blah blah. It’s one of the reasons we left. That and their required hurricane marina evacuation.

There are quite a few on the bow deck that was facing the construction. Most of them come off without a huge problem but some of the larger ones are difficult. Lots of boats impacted. Many people mad.

Maybe get a lawyer and a small class action suit.

 

[SailorGreg]

Maybe get a lawyer and a small class action suit.

Just removed some rust stains from my boat. Rust Remover from West Marine worked great. Spray on, wait a few minutes, light scrub with a tooth brush, and completely gone.

 

[cardude01]

These rust specks seem to be imbedded into the clear coat for whatever reason. I can run my hand across the clear coat and now it feels kind of rough where it felt smooth before. That’s why I was thinking about compounding them out. Doesn’t really make sense that grinding sparks from the construction across the marina would still be hot when they floated to the boats across the fairway, but whatever the case, they are stuck in there. Thanks for all the ideas. I have lots of things to try now.

I won’t go to the trouble of calling lawyers. It’s not that bad of a problem and not worth the stress for me to fight it. Life is too short to deal with lawyers.? (Apologies to the lawyers here. I know y’all are good people, you just stress me out)

We are at the Municipal Harbor on Lake Ponchatrain. It’s cheap, which makes me feel good, and it seems pretty nice with the large floating docks. It’s not the most protected place for giant storms I understand, but wife and I didn’t want to be across the lake in the more protected (but secluded) spots. My sister and I share an apartment in the Bywater so we wanted to be fairly close to that.

Talked to a guy in a big sailboat living aboard with his family, and he said if over a cat 3 he is planning on going up the Tchefuncte River and tying off to a tree or whatever. Maybe I will look into that.

 

[TBill36]

Before you lawyer up as previously suggested, try calling the construction company to see if they have insurance that would cover this type of thing. I've had luck when hitting a submerged dredge pipe and contacting the dredge company. Just sent them the bill for damaged props and they paid it. Seemed like it was almost an expected part of their doing business.

 

[Mac2]

These rust specks seem to be imbedded into the clear coat for whatever reason. I can run my hand across the clear coat and now it feels kind of rough where it felt smooth before. That’s why I was thinking about compounding them out. Doesn’t really make sense that grinding sparks from the construction across the marina would still be hot when they floated to the boats across the fairway, but whatever the case, they are stuck in there. Thanks for all the ideas. I have lots of things to try now.

I'm guessing they floated onto your boat when it was being buffed, which worked the metal particulates into the gelcoat. Sucks! Sorry. I'm thinking it needs rebuffing, washed clean and rebuffed. I would actually wait a few days after buffing and washing to see if there are any metal particulates left, which would have re-rusted by this time.

 

[boatnbump]

This same thing happens when they ship cars on a train. Steel dust comes off the wheels and gets on the cars. They call it rail dust. It also removes brake dust. I have seem it bad on white cars. There is a clay bar that will remove the rust without damage. Several companys make it. Try and autobody supply they will have it.

 

[cardude01]

This same thing happens when they ship cars on a train. Steel dust comes off the wheels and gets on the cars. They call it rail dust. It also removes brake dust. I have seem it bad on white cars. There is a clay bar that will remove the rust without damage. Several companys make it. Try and autobody supply they will have it.

Hey I forgot about the clay bar treatment! When I was in the car biz we would get cars in with terrible rail dust before they started covering them with that white protective plastic. We would remove the rail dust with those clay bars. It took forever, but it got the dust off and smoothed the finish out. Wonder if that would work in gel coat? Worth a try I suppose.

 

[Comodave]

We had a previous 46’ boat completely painted. Then i had a company fabricate all new 1.25” rails on the boat. The guy would cut the S/S on the dock, walk through the metal shavings and then walk onto my brand newly painted decks. The painter called me and let me know what was going since he had told the guy to remove his boots before boarding onto the new paint and since we lived 500+ miles from the boat we were unaware of what was going on. I arrived unannounced and watched the S/S guy from across the parking lot. He made multiple trips onboard with his boots tracking the shavings onto the new paint. I then went to the boat and he immediately started removing his boots. I told him I had been watching him and that I would deduct the cost of repainting the decks from his invoice. He wasn’t very happy but he had been told repeatedly to not wear the boots onto the boat. So I feel for you with a similar problem. Mine was easier since the painter was happy to be paid to repaint the decks. S/S guy not so much…

 

[Capt Ray]

That is what is nice about FSR in that it isn’t an abrasive. It is some kind of mild acid. Davis makes it. I use gloves when I use it and just rub a bit and let it sit for a couple of minutes and the rust comes off.

+1 here for Davis FSR (fiberglass stain remover).
I had to cut a link of 3/8" chain up forward, and the "sawdust" rusted specs all the way back to the scuppers in the stern.

FSR is a blue gel... put it on and let it sit for a bit. A little rubbing, and repeat that once or twice and you'll get it out. Then you need to re-apply your wax of course.

Having a jar of FSR and a quart of Acetone aboard solves just about any stain I see in the gel coat! (Boat require re-application of wax.)

 

[ProMaritime]

Today's Wink is not what it used to be thanks to the government agencies requiring it to be water down. I think you can still buy oxalic acid in powder form which you mix with water. I once did some grinding of stainless on the foredeck of my boat and the next day I had the same tiny rust spots all over the place. The rust was maybe from the grinding tool or the grade of stainless itself, but the acid mixture made the spots disappear quickly. I immediately flooded brushed the affected area with fresh water.

 

[Senojev]

Wink and Other Alternatives

I agree that Wink is not as good today but I've used it recently with success on rust specks. Barkeepers Friend is about 10% oxalic acid and also worked well in a paste. Oxalic acid wood bleach is an alternative as is making your own from powder. Oxalic acid powder is very cheap and readily available on Amazon.

 

[Captankirk]

First thing you should do is notify the construction company and let them know they messed up your boat finish. I ran construction jobs my entire career and I can't count the number of cars the painter had to have buffed out because of paint when they sprayed the outside of the buildings. Get a professional to give you a quote on what it would cost to remove the specs. The guys doing the grinding are responsible for that damage, and should pony up to pay the bill of whatever it costs.

 

[CarlF]

Wink, FSR and other Oxalic Acid products will remove a stain but not pieces of iron. The rust will keep reappearing as the particles just rust some more.

Is this gelcoat or paint?

If paint, you are out of luck. Use the FSR once a month until the particles rust away (or sand and repaint)

If gelcoat, aggressive rubbing compound is the answer. Then follow with a finer abrasive like Finesse It (you will need a powerful slow turning buffer with a wool pad). Then wax. It will look better than new.

 

[cardude01]

It’s gelcoat. Thanks for the ideas.

I have some light compound that has been working pretty well. I also ordered a detailing clay bar kit I will try soon.