Rudder stuffing box

[timjet]

My rudder stuffing box's are leaking and getting worse. They are very difficult to get to and I had to remove a cabinet to gain access to the stbd rudder. Even with the cabinet removal I have to work with a mirror to see the stuffing box. I tried to back off the lower thin nut, but couldn't move it. Then tried to move the larger nut which I believe holds the stuffing material and couldn't move it either.*I used Ospho to clean the stuffing box up a bit and wire bushed it so it's pretty clean now, but still can't move either nut.


Anybody have any suggestion's on how to do this? Maybe some liquid wrench or some other material that would help? My biggest problem is getting to it and working on it using a mirror. For this reason it's hard to put much pressure on the wrench.

 

[FF]

PB Blaster , Liquid Wrench, Krolls are as much a religion as Danforth VS CQR .

PB does work , but a bit if light tapping and TIME helps.

You will probably have to use a dull center punch , or a chisel to start the lower thin lock nut .

Once loosened the top cap will come up and allow you to repack it.

My preference is for the modern packing , not the traditional.

The joy of the modern stuff is it can be OVER TIGHTENED A BIT ,and it will seat and is slippery enough that it has less friction than the ancient tefflon packing.

One visit is best when its hard to get to, the downside is it nay have to be mail ordered if toy do not know the packing size in advance (the usual).

 

[timjet]

Thanks FF, I was afraid no one could help.
I had a mechanic out the other day to look at several other issues, mostly engine related but he did look at the stuffing box and he suggested to spray the stuffing box with Ospho which is a coorision cleaner. I did and it cleaned it up nicely. The biggest problem I've having is access. I had to remove a cabinet in the aft cabinet to get to the stbd side but still have to work with a mirror to see it.


I will spray the units with Liquid Wrench liberally this weekend when I go to the boat.


FF, you mentioned "You will probably have to use a dull center punch , or a chisel to start the lower thin lock nut." Are you referring to tapping on the thin lower nut in such a way and in such a position that you are trying to loosen it or just tapping on it to loosen all the crud around the threads. I'm assuming that the thin lower nut will loosen by turning it in the direction that would move it toward the hull which is clockwise when looking from above, correct??


I've tried using a stuffing box wrench but the jaws are too thin to grasp the nut. I'm thinking of getting a large adjustable wrench or open end wrench to do the job. I'm a little afraid of putting to much pressure on the wrench though, as it could damage the whole assembly.

 

[koliver]

Don't be bashful about applying some force or impact to your wrench to get the nut started. Can you get a pipe wrench in there? Something that you can apply some sledge persuasion to?

 

[FF]

OSPHO or osphoric acid will clean crud but is NOT a lubricant.

Use some spray that you prefer.

The thin nut is usually the lock nut.

I prefer a sharp tap to using a wrench as there is less chance of damage.

When boats are built the rudder stock (if GRP) is installed after the hull is built.

With all the issues of secondary bonding , and the higher cost of epoxy and high quality labor,for a builder , I always suspect the rudder stock bond and treat it with kid gloves.

My feeling is there is less chance of ripping the stock out of the vessel with a chisel than with a 3 ft hex or pipe wrench.

IF time is on your side , a week of slobbering with PB or whatever is a help.

 

[timjet]

Thanks FF, I'm going down to the boat Monday and will slobber it well with Liquid Wrench or if I can find it PB Blaster, maybe both.
I'll use a center punch, much prefer that idea than strong arming it with a pipe wrench. The biggest problem is getting to it. I'm working upside down with a mirror.