Request help with rudder feedback unit

[PJHoffnet]

BLUF: Looking for a hand with replacing the ‘arm’ of a Simrad RF300 rudder feedback unit/full replacement of the unit.

I have a Simrad RF300 rudder feedback unit that could not withstand the tremendous weight of my fat gut contacting it the a couple of months ago when I was doing some work on a nearby underwater light connection. I’ve worked in that ‘tight hole’ area before and was careful not to put any body part over the unit, but wasn’t careful enough this time and the ‘arm’ snapped off pretty darn close to the rotating top piece.

Yupp, stupid me. Oh well, JB weld has done a good job holding it together until this past weekend when I did a really fast wheel spin at the helm to avoid a ‘late seen’ crab pot. Crab pot survived, but the arm snapped at the repair line.

So, I went on Ebay and ordered a new arm, but when I went to scout out how to remove the old arm, I couldn’t get the ??? ‘set screw’ ??? in the middle of the arm to come loose. In fact, the ‘head’ of the screw snapped right off. Perhaps I was removing the piece incorrectly.

OK, before this drifts too far into TLDR territory, 1) Anyone have any insight into how to remove the screw/top rotating part of the unit? 2) If I decide that isn’t going to work, and I replace the unit, can I simply cut and splice the new unit to the existing cable, or do I need to re-run the entire length?

 

[wkearney99]

As someone that's also too large for tight spaces, you have my sympathies.

I'd wonder if the screw was corroded into the base? Or if it was inserted with red loctite (the 5200 equivalent of thread locker).

How is the base supposed to be held in place (to keep from rotating) to remove the fastener It looks like Simrad did sell that arm alone, but I can't tell from the few pix of it that come up online. You're likely going to need to call Simrad direct on the phone to get more info. https://maxmarineelectronics.com/pr...on-lever-assembly-20193678-new-old-inventory/

 

[Comodave]

You may be able to use the autopilot without the rudder feedback. We removed one on a friends boat that was malfunctioning and his pilot worked fine without it. M current boat had a rudder feedback on the old pilot. I installed a new autopilot but have not had time to even set it up yet. However the instructions cover installing it with and without a rudder feedback. On my boat there is no way that I could ever install the rudder feedback due to no access and my rather large size.

 

[PJHoffnet]

Moving along

As someone that's also too large for tight spaces, you have my sympathies.

Boat yoga is never fun

I'd wonder if the screw was corroded into the base? Or if it was inserted with red loctite (the 5200 equivalent of thread locker).

Certainly could be ... or just 'weak' metal on the set screw - or more likely, I jumped the gun and that's not what holds the arm to the base. (see below)

How is the base supposed to be held in place (to keep from rotating) to remove the fastener It looks like Simrad did sell that arm alone, but I can't tell from the few pix of it that come up online.

The base itself mounts to a stringer, no issues there. I was able to get just an arm off eBay, it will be here in a couple of days. Until then I've got it sorta jury rigged up. The guy who's selling me the arm is gonna send a picture of what screw I need to unscrew to remove the arm - hopin' its different than the one I broke. He mentioned something about it being a compression connection - so maybe a 'side loaded' set screw I didn't see (it is kinda dark back there).

You may be able to use the autopilot without the rudder feedback.

Could be ... after the arm broke, when I was a wide no wake zone I turned on the AP in 'hold heading' mode and I could hear the normal 'quick' steering pump bump when trying to correct, then it seemed the pump tried to go hard over - I'm guessing because the AP didn't sense the rudder responding? What ever the reason, I will replace the arm/unit (if necessary) because I want to have rudder angle indication on helm (shows on the AP and my MFD).

 

[wkearney99]

I am in the process of removing an RF300. I can send it to you if you have any use for it as parts.

And, side note/rant. I hate how no two vendors use the same specs for things. The replacement Furuno unit wants a minimum of 13." for the arm that connects to the rudder. The old RF300 only needed 6" (and maxed at under 13"). So not only do I have to replace the unit, I also have to move the blocking used to raise it to the rudder's height (and there still may not be room for it... that's TBD next).

Do not get me started on the hassles of pulling wires. Last meter of the old cable was unfortunately 'braided' with other wires behind an inaccessible space. No easy way to pull it through with the old one. And, of course, the new cable is thicker and seems to have a jacket that's actually WORSE at being pulled along. So it's back to the boat again in few days to HOPEFULLY get a snake through there. Either wire to rod kind.

 

[Portage_Bay]

I am in the process of removing an RF300. I can send it to you if you have any use for it as parts.

And, side note/rant. I hate how no two vendors use the same specs for things. The replacement Furuno unit wants a minimum of 13." for the arm that connects to the rudder. The old RF300 only needed 6" (and maxed at under 13"). So not only do I have to replace the unit, I also have to move the blocking used to raise it to the rudder's height (and there still may not be room for it... that's TBD next).

Do not get me started on the hassles of pulling wires. Last meter of the old cable was unfortunately 'braided' with other wires behind an inaccessible space. No easy way to pull it through with the old one. And, of course, the new cable is thicker and seems to have a jacket that's actually WORSE at being pulled along. So it's back to the boat again in few days to HOPEFULLY get a snake through there. Either wire to rod kind.

Here's a trick that worked for me when installing a new autopilot and running the pneumatic lines for a tank tender system. I had some long-ish fairly straight runs with no access except at each end. I used PEX sticks. I could push, twist and take advantate of the slight 'natural' bend in the PEX. Even warm and warp a length as needed. Once I had the PEX in place I attached a shop vac and sucked a small diameter twine through the PEX. Then pulled the rest through. It had the added advantage that when done I could leave the PEX in place if I wanted for a sort of conduit. It may work for you.

Sent from my SM-T500 using Trawler Forum mobile app

 

[wkearney99]

Here's a trick that worked for me when installing a new autopilot and running the pneumatic lines for a tank tender system. I had some long-ish fairly straight runs with no access except at each end. I used PEX sticks. I could push, twist and take advantate of the slight 'natural' bend in the PEX. Even warm and warp a length as needed. Once I had the PEX in place I attached a shop vac and sucked a small diameter twine through the PEX. Then pulled the rest through. It had the added advantage that when done I could leave the PEX in place if I wanted for a sort of conduit. It may work for you.

I hear ya, but to run another conduit through already jammed quarters would be less than ideal.

The rudder indicator requires it's own wires (and the new one needs more conductors than the old one, otherwise I'd have spliced). I already have NMEA-2000 and Ethernet "nearby" in the engine room so there's not really anything else I'm likely to need to pull in the future.

Most of the engine room has the capped kind of plastic wire raceway. So most access is 'reasonable'. But the point where a bunch of things transition from the engine room to a chase up to the helm is more congested than Lincoln Tunnel at rush hour. And, worse, there's a big-ass power distribution panel mounted OVER where that chase comes through the bulkhead, making it a blindspot.

So, yeah, the joys of boating sometimes...

 

[CharlieJ]

As a guy that pulls wire for a living I cannot say how many time real wire lube (not dish soap, spit or any other "lube") has made an impossible wire pulling task possible.

 

[wkearney99]

As a guy that pulls wire for a living I cannot say how many time real wire lube (not dish soap, spit or any other "lube") has made an impossible wire pulling task possible.

Fair point. What brand is least troublesome to clean up?

 

[CharlieJ]

@wkearney99 #9

I have used both of these available at Loews and Home Depot. No preference.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/IDEAL-32-oz-Yellow-Gold-Wire-Pulling-Lubricant/3178691
https://www.lowes.com/pd/IDEAL-32-oz-Clear-Wire-Pulling-Lubricant/1017915

 

[PJHoffnet]

Wow, that would be great ...

I am in the process of removing an RF300. I can send it to you if you have any use for it as parts.

That would be greatly appreciated - I'll certainly pay for shipping and toss in $20 for your troubles.

 

[Comodave]

As a guy that pulls wire for a living I cannot say how many time real wire lube (not dish soap, spit or any other "lube") has made an impossible wire pulling task possible.

I have a quart of wire lube. It helped me a couple of weeks ago pulling a GPS cable that I thought was going to be easy to pull, not so much but with the lube it went right through.

 

[wkearney99]

That would be greatly appreciated - I'll certainly pay for shipping and toss in $20 for your troubles.

PM sent.