Replacing Oil Pan on Genset

[Max Simmons]

Genset runs great, but oil pan is badly rusted and now weeping oil. It looks like the previous owner patched it with JB weld or something, but it is now giving up. It is in a sound shield and less than an inch of clearance between pan and bottom of enclosure. I'm starting to think of ways to lift it up to get at the pan and replace. Unfortunately it's not under a direct opening in the sole. I pulled one of the transmissions a few years back and was able to lift one of the Perkins by bridging across the sole and lifting from there. Anyone tackle something like this?

 

[STB]

This all depends, what type of generator? There is a big difference between my relatively recent Kohler 6EOD based upon a Perkins 400 series and the 1970s era Kohler based upon a Perkins 4.107 that was in my prior boat. or one of the old Northern Lights that are common.

The 6EOD can me lifted with a come-along or, if really needed, some rachet straps. The older generator? That would have taken an A-Frame, which is what we used when we swapped one of my engines.

For some gensets, and bilge arrangements you could use a hydraulic spreader to rock it back a bit, block (shim) under that side, go to the other side and do the same, and work back-and-forth until it is blocked high enough. Heck, for some an automotive floor jack might work.
-- https://www.harborfreight.com/4-ton-portable-hydraulic-equipment-kit-62115.html
-- https://www.amazon.com/Torin-Big-Red-Portable-Hydraulic/dp/B000OQ3Y62

It all depends upon how heavy the genset is, how much space you have above, how much space you have below, and how much accessibility you have.

With some small generators and some installations, one side might be high enough and only one side might need to be lifted (there are limits to this, obviously).

I guess I can say that I've seen or been involved in projects with some similarity done with A-frames, hydraulic spreaders and blocking, come-alongs, and rachet straps.

Of course there are dangers...rachet straps breaking, a jack or blocking sliding, the unit becoming unstable and moving when tilted, a finger or foot or other body part getting crushed beneath or between things, etc, etc, etc. It is all situation dependent and improvised, so you've got to feel good about the plan and find a way to stop, stabilize and replan to go forward or backward if ever you lose that comfort. Etc. Etc. Etc.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. MS. I think Mr. STB described the situation well. Another alternative that you might consider is doing another/better repair in situ with JB or similar. NOT what you want but better than damaged digits.

 

[Lepke]

Many people that rebuild engines in the vessel roll them over on their side. If you're rebuilding the engine you remove the head and accessories first. But just changing the pan, drain the oil, roll it over, change the pan, roll it back, and refill the oil.
Depending what's along side, you can use a moving pad, etc., to lay the engine on. Or thick cardboard.

 

[High Wire]

Many people that rebuild engines in the vessel roll them over on their side. If you're rebuilding the engine you remove the head and accessories first. But just changing the pan, drain the oil, roll it over, change the pan, roll it back, and refill the oil.
Depending what's along side, you can use a moving pad, etc., to lay the engine on. Or thick cardboard.

Thinking out of the box?

 

[Max Simmons]

Many people that rebuild engines in the vessel roll them over on their side. If you're rebuilding the engine you remove the head and accessories first. But just changing the pan, drain the oil, roll it over, change the pan, roll it back, and refill the oil.
Depending what's along side, you can use a moving pad, etc., to lay the engine on. Or thick cardboard.

Hadn't thought of that. hadn't planned on any further re-build. It runs like a champ and have had no issues with it.

 

[Comodave]

Many people that rebuild engines in the vessel roll them over on their side. If you're rebuilding the engine you remove the head and accessories first. But just changing the pan, drain the oil, roll it over, change the pan, roll it back, and refill the oil.
Depending what's along side, you can use a moving pad, etc., to lay the engine on. Or thick cardboard.

Pretty good idea.

 

[jgwinks]

Big factor would be how easy the enclosure comes apart. The one around my old Onan's held together with a couple dozen screws, it was a PITA to take apart and way worse going back together. I was tempted to leave it off but it was just too loud that way. You'll have to get it out to lift or roll so the enclosure is your first obstacle.