Repair water stained interior teak

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Sharpseadog

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2015
Messages
136
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Tinka
Vessel Make
Mariner/Helmsman 38
I had a small water leak that stained areas on both sides of the wall between pilot berth and salon. I'm attaching photos and would appreciate advice on repair. I'm especially concerned about the dark stains above day head door. Will light sanding remove that or is it likely deeper.
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It looks like you have a lot of sanding ahead.
 
I am not an expert but you will have to sand off any varnish, or similar, and then bleach the wood to lighten it up. Not sure what to use, maybe others will add on what they have used or check some wood working sites.
 
Oxalic acid should remove the black stains, after light sanding.

Careful with the sanding as the venerr is very thin.

With damaged teak veneer I have occasionally just painted over with a light color paint which has brightened the cabin and made the solid joinery stand-out.

In any case, make sure you fix the leak first!
 
On a previous boat, 12 boats ago, we had a lot of staining and damage to the wall veneer. I sanded the finish off and used epoxy filler to repair the damaged areas. I used an HVLP sprayer to prime and paint the walls. I had to use a forced air respirator. But they came out beautifully and did brighten up the boat interior significantly. I used Brightside paint. 1 part gray and 3 parts white. Gave a light gray finish that went well with the dark gray carpet. We always go with dark gray carpet since we have 2 black labs and the hair does not show as much.
 
I was recently on a Nordhavn that had a major refit when the current owners purchased a few years ago. Work was done in Dana Point by PAEs commissioning crew - presumably the best of the best and experienced in all things Nordhavn and well-heeled owners.

The owner of the boat pointed out some areas that had water staining. Several has been paint-matched using faux paint techniques. Others had been sanded and refinished (as others have said, extreme caution when sanding - the veneer is literally paper thin - must be sanded by hand with very fine grit and a lot of patience). All of the work was performed by a very experienced (and expensive) finish carpenter skilled in higher end yacht work. The result was decent but still noticeable.

I don't have good advice for you. Oxalic acid will help remove the stain once the varnish is removed but since oxalic acid is water based risks raising the grain and sanding without going through the veneer is difficult.

If the area is small or manageable, you could re-veneer the entire panel. Since this is a door, I cannot imagine that would be feasible .

What would I do? I'd try to sand back as much of the varnish as possible to make a clean opening for the staining. I would try a lightly damp rag with oxalic acid and see if successive dampening of the area can remove much of the staining. If that doesn't go well, I'd try faux wood grain painting. It's tedious to get color match and finish correct (and you end up with a lot of cans of paint trying to match the color - Home Depot sells small test samples of about a cup each) but not too bad.

Wish I had better news for you. It's possible but not quick or easy.

Good luck with whatever you do.

Peter
 
Sharpseadog,
I would say you have to remove the finish before the oxalic acid will do anything. Try paint stripper and very light scraping with a razor sharp scraper. You can sharpen a steel blade sharper than a carbide one. It may take several applications of oaxlic acid. Be sure to protect the area around the treated spot. Neutralize with water.

Peter may have easiest solution in hiring a faux painter. They can get incredible results.

Rob
 
If you have successfully stopped the leak, I would be tempted to leave well enough alone and focus on all the other aspects of boat maintenance. My perspective is that it's a boat, not a museum piece. I love the beautiful woodwork on our Mariner 37, but recognize that at coming up on 20 years old, we all have some creaks and leaks. Just my 2¢.
 
Bear pecan stain matches teak quite well at Lows. Lightly sanding down dark old veneer and then bleach. I use regular Clorox bleach multi times. You could use new quarter round wood and stain to match and cover the old dark wood.
 
Another option is teak veneer plywood, and just replace the panel.

I have had a persistent leak, now resolved that caused a bit of staining and lifting.

Instead of investing many hours on a repair that will never look perfect I'm just going to disassemble the trouble area and replace the panel.
 
Greetings,
Mr. S. You might consider simply putting (gluing) a new layer of teak veneer right over the existing stained area. IF you locate the new edge overlap strategically and stain appropriately, you might not even notice the repair. A sanding of the existing surface and VERY careful fitting of the new piece,is about the only thing necessary.
 
Find the right faux paint guy and you won't even be able to tell where the bad spots were. They don't have to take anything apart or sand through the veneer. The good guys can do it pretty quickly so the cost can be reasonable.

Make sure the leaks are fixed and the wood is dry and let a pro make it go away. You will save many hours and it might even be lower cost compared to death by a thousand cuts of experimenting with home brew fixes.

At the very least, ask around for recommendations and have a conversation with a faux paint guy before you decide.
 
I have a completely different take on what works, sanding and bleaching teak veneer, in my opinion is a waste of time and will lead to ruin. My 45 year old trawler had horrible water staining. I took a clear polyurethane gloss finish and tinted it with bombay red and other rich colors. I brushed it on mimicking existing wood grain, some light, some dark, some very dark. With some experimenting, I was able to create a gorgeous, warm interior that far surpassed the original. It has been years since my first redo and now I touch it up in places as needed using the same technique. Looks great.
 
We've successfully applied cherry veneer to water stain areas on two boats with great 'like new' results. I assume teak veneer results would be similar. By the time you mess with sanding, replacing, staining and/or varnishing, the veneer seems easier, faster and gets better cosmetic results.
 
#1 Find and stop the water leak before repairing the teak.
If you were close to Ft Lauderdale I would gladly recommend someone with the understanding it will cost you lots of money. He did all the work on my N46 and now doing the new cabinet work on my AT34.
Once the water leak is located repaired, gluing a second layer might be the best/fastest way to go.
I was his first or 2nd customer when he moved down from Canada.
 
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If you have successfully stopped the leak, I would be tempted to leave well enough alone and focus on all the other aspects of boat maintenance. My perspective is that it's a boat, not a museum piece. I love the beautiful woodwork on our Mariner 37, but recognize that at coming up on 20 years old, we all have some creaks and leaks. Just my 2¢.
I'm kind of leaning that way myself. It would be very easy to make things much worse. Cure worse than the disease!
 
I think there is lots of good advice here already. I’ll just throw out another alternative that definitely isn’t original, but relatively quick and easy. In Seattle the guys at Prism graphics have done a fair number of interior vinyl wraps. (I saw photos at the boat show). Basically it’s just a giant vinyl photo of teak applied over the existing surface that has been sanded smooth. While I didn’t see it in person, looking at photos I couldn’t tell it wasn’t real.
 
I am not an expert but you will have to sand off any varnish, or similar, and then bleach the wood to lighten it up. Not sure what to use, maybe others will add on what they have used or check some wood working sites.
Oxalic acid is good to lighten wood color. Readily available at Home Depot.
 
Have similar problem around ports fwd, staining/rot. To refinish i looked at raw, paper back and adhesive. Space is only 16" at highest x 40 and prices are high for adhesive back. Being cheap, i bought a roll of teak edge banding 2"x50 ft (!) with adhesive $ 25, ill piece it & iron then stain & varnish.
 
Many years ago with our sailboat, I took some existing teak to Benjamin Moore and a fresh piece of teak as I wanted to match and they did a custom tint pre treatment that was perfect, over which I varnished with a flat varnish to match. That said, when we bought our Mariner 37 (a 2008 in 2021-22) the PO had allowed several places to become stained, and we have yet to undertake repair. I spent dozens of hours doing the sailboat, and just don't know if I have another stressful endeavor in my soul.
 

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Wow @capran that looks great. Can you perhaps outline a bit more how you did this??
removed cabinets. Thoroughly dried out at home. very fine sandpaper to remove varnish. On bare wood used oxalic acid, thoroughly drying to slowly bring the wood back to what bare teak looked like. I had previously taken wood to Benjamin Moore store in Spokane with piece of good existing teak, and some bare wood, asking for a match. They spent a lot of time and ended up with what almost look like an orange stain. I still have it. The can says Benood Interior wood finishes WOOD CONDITIONER 236 00. on the top of the can it says "Tint 4105". Very gingerly applied the "stain". When it seemed like a good match, let it dry a few days, then slowly put on 3 coats of Epifanes rubbed effect varnish. The back light colored wood was easier. Since it's solid wood, I could sand down to bare wood and varnish. At the foot of the V berth I bought a new piece of teak and used the Benjamin moore product and varnished. (the top panel in the V berth was fine, but the bottom was separated, so only had to do the bottom piece in pic)) There was a little damage to the bulkhead and sanded/bleached, stained and varnished. (this was Hurricane Francis damage form ft Pierce). I replaced the LonCoin flooring in the galley, as it was stained. I did the re-wiring and in instrument replacements myself, but did have the outside done professionally. By doing all the wood, upholstery and wiring myself, saved over 11 k, which I used to Wa. That was all done in 2004-05, and when I sold her in 2022 to get the Helmsman, she still looked brand new.
 

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In case your refinishing is not successful, though I`d suggest being flexible about "success", improvement may suffice.Three boats back I had a stained area. I found a thin veneered product I could glue over the stained area, from memory it came in a roll. actual wood veneer, not a plastic self adhesive roll, from a big box hardware chain (Bunnings)in Australia. Presumably available elsewhere.
 

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