Recommendation for kayak and paddle board

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bowball

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Adding both kayak and paddle board.
Would like to keep the length to maybe 12’?
Probably will get two of one and one of the other type. Don’t know which will be preferred yet.

Use is for poking around the coves of BC. Maybe SE Alaska for the kayak.

I could probably go to 15’ but prefer shorter. Will need to be hoisted up to flybridge deck

Started overthinking inflatable versus rigid paddle board etc.

Weight capacity for large divergence. Maybe 125 to 275 load ratings (not peoples weight!). Ability level intermediate ish?

Any suggestions? Ideally that can be purchased maybe in Victoria? Supply chain creates an availability issue too.
 
After test-padding a number of sit-in style kayaks, I chose the Wilderness Systems "Pungo 120," and have been very satisfied. At a little over 40#, it's manageable by one person. They used to make a carbon fiber version, but I think they discontinued that option. A good used one should do fine, though. They don't wear out.
 
Adding both kayak and paddle board.
Would like to keep the length to maybe 12’?
Probably will get two of one and one of the other type. Don’t know which will be preferred yet.

Use is for poking around the coves of BC. Maybe SE Alaska for the kayak.

I could probably go to 15’ but prefer shorter. Will need to be hoisted up to flybridge deck

Started overthinking inflatable versus rigid paddle board etc.

Weight capacity for large divergence. Maybe 125 to 275 load ratings (not peoples weight!). Ability level intermediate ish?

Any suggestions? Ideally that can be purchased maybe in Victoria? Supply chain creates an availability issue too.

Lifetime and former racing kayaker here with 6 in my garage currently gathering dust. Your first decision is what construction material to choose. A quick rundown (Caveat these are general characteristics, some models will be better/worse than these general observations) When I describe a boat as being 'faster' it simply means that it takes less effort to propel it to the same speed;

Roto Molded plastic: The Good: Cheapest by far, plenty that meet your size/capacity. Rugged and can be hauled up and down beaches without serious damage. The Bad: The heaviest of all options. At least 40-50lb and more for larger ones with added accessories, which is no fun hauling down to the boat ramp/low tide beach, Slow and the shorter ones tend not to track very well (go straight).

Inflatables: Becoming very popular. Sold with a backpack and high pressure pump these are easy to pack and stow and perform better than an RMP but not as well as the following categories. Being inflatable you wouldn't want to drag them anywhere and of course they take time to set up and deflate. Many come with a skeg which improves tracking.

Fiberglass: Going out of fashion now as they are about the same weight as RMP but more prone to scratching and penetration damage. They to have a better profile for maintaining straight line paddling, and are faster, easier to paddle than either RMP or Inflatable. Generally not as 'fat' as the RMPs. Sea versions tend to have well equipped waterproof storage holds and often rudders which are very helpful in wind/tide.

Kevlar/Fiberglass blend: More expensive, Kevlar adds strength and lightens the boat. options available at around 30-40lb.

Carbon Fiber or Pure Kevlar: Now my heart is beating. Fast, light (my lightest is 18lb) strong but scratch easily. Tend to be skinny and require expertise to stay upright. Expensive.

SUP BOARDS
I am more inclined to recommend inflatable SUPs than inflatable Kayaks for the simple reason that they tend to get treated better and therefore punctured less. Kayaks get paddled onto beaches, then get ground into the pebbles while entering/exiting the boat, also people tend to get in on the ground and push off into the water. An SUP you simply put in the water and step on, then step off at the end. Much less wear and tear.

WHATEVER kayak you get I strongly recommend upgrading the paddle. If you think about it, the kayak/sUP floats all by itself and is easy to propel, however you have to hold the paddle near arms length for an hour or hours while paddling. The weight of the paddle is of supreme importance. The lightest carbon fiber paddle weighs just over 1lb at 16.25oz. A cheap paddle will weigh at least twice this and probably 3lb. See how long you want to hold out a 3lb piece of wood at arms length and you'll quickly appreciate that it makes more sense to be more spendy on the paddle than the boat. I like Epic Paddles, made by the 2 time US Gold medalist Greg Barton, who lives here in Seattle and joins our local races. Not cheap at $500 but so worth it.

Intermediate blends at intermediate weights (2lb) and prices ($186) should be considered if the gold standard is too pricy.

Have fun!
~A
 
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Alan-
Quite the summary, so thank you!
I’ll look for a lighter one. Definitely a quality paddle.

I was amazed how fast c1 and k1 racers are. I stumbled upon nationals years ago at Green Lake.

Is 12 or 15’ a decent kayak length for exploring?
 
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Alan-
Quite the summary, so thank you!
I’ll look for a lighter one. Definitely a quality paddle.

I was amazed how fast c1 and k1 racers are. I stumbled upon nationals years ago at Green Lake.

Is 12 or 15’ a decent kayak length for exploring?

As a former Pocock rower you will appreciate a longer boat. Definitely avoid the 12' options, I have one for the Grandkids which they love, but they track very poorly, every paddle plant sends them off at a tangent. Length is key for tracking, but a skeg helps a lot (or a rudder of course). I would think a 15' that is no beamier than it has to be and either a skeg or a decent keel ridge running along part of the hull will track well enough to be fun and get you places. Depending on your planned usage, consider one that offers good stability (despite your experience) if you wish to kayak with guests. Personally have seen absolute beginners start on a SUP sitting or kneeling and fairly quickly evolve to standing - without dunking. I am coming to believe that SUPs are better for beginners for that reason and a dunking is less traumatic and much easier to recover from on an SUP than in a kayak.
~A
 
AlanT wrote:

Definitely avoid the 12' options, I have one for the Grandkids which they love, but they track very poorly, every paddle plant sends them off at a tangent.

That seems an overgeneralization. My 12' Pungo tracks well for a rudderless 'yak. It does have a molded keel-fin running all the way to the stern. Every boat is a compromise, and a boat that is light and short while still being comfortable and rugged is a boat that will get used more. Ergo, my selection. YMMV.

Depending on your planned usage, consider one that offers good stability (despite your experience) if you wish to kayak with guests.

Yes, beamier is better for novices.

Personally have seen absolute beginners start on a SUP sitting or kneeling and fairly quickly evolve to standing - without dunking. I am coming to believe that SUPs are better for beginners for that reason and a dunking is less traumatic and much easier to recover from on an SUP than in a kayak.

Agree about SUPs and dunking recovery. Also strongly agree about investing in a good, lightweight paddle (and tether).
 
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I had a Perception 14 Carolina on my boat for several years. It had a rudder and paddled like a dream. But it was heavy and hard to launch and retrieve from the bow of my boat.

I downgraded to a 12 footer from West Marine. It was cheap, light and easy to handle. I'm paddling more for exercise than distance. Once I mentally adjusted to lesser performance, it's been more than adequate.

For the SUP, I went with an inflatable by Body Glove. Less than $500 and it rolls up for easy off-season storage.
 
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