Propane system diagram

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JosieWhales

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Dec 8, 2020
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Were switching over to propane from our 80's electric stove to propane oven with a 3 burner cooktop.
I understand some of the logistics but looking for some guidance.
We will install a selinoid shut off switch in the galley with an alarm. Plus a propane locker with a standard exchange tank with a regulator on it.
Tank will be roughly 10' from stove.
So a hose from tank reg to back of stove with selinoid hooked up in locker.
Am is missing something or is it that simple.
Thanks for any guidance or diagrams of your systems. That's the only propane we will use for the stove. Boat is a 40' Mainship Pilothouse.
 
Where are you located? Sure marine here in Seattle could answer your questions. The only question I have about your setup is the 10 foot section of hose between tank and stove. I would make sure it is compliant with boat/abyc.
 
As you describe it, your propane installation sounds good.

Even though I don’t like them, they often fail and give spurious alarms, a gas detector/alarm mounted low near the floor would be a good idea. Maybe they have gotten more reliable in recent years.

David
 
Suggest carrying a spare solenoid valve in your spares kit. Sometimes they last 10+ years. Sometimes 10-weeks. They're cheap and easily replaced. I forget what solenoid I have, this spare worked for me.


Peter
 
Mac2 said:
Where are you located? Sure marine here in Seattle could answer your questions. The only question I have about your setup is the 10 foot section of hose between tank and stove. I would make sure it is compliant with boat/abyc.
Click to expand...
I'm in Newington NH, at Great Bay Marina. Pulled out for the season and gearing up for a interior refit.
 
Some basics to be ABYC compliant: The propane locker needs to be top opening with a sealed lid. The vent needs to be overboard from the bottom of the propane locker. You need a pressure gauge at the tank. There can be no breaks in the line between the locker and the appliance. You can't store anything else in the propane locker. Think carefully about where you install the solenoid switch, you don't ever want to have to reach over the stove or near where a fire might be to shut it off.
 
JosieWhales said:
Were switching over to propane from our 80's electric stove to propane oven with a 3 burner cooktop.
I understand some of the logistics but looking for some guidance.
We will install a selinoid shut off switch in the galley with an alarm. Plus a propane locker with a standard exchange tank with a regulator on it.
Tank will be roughly 10' from stove.
So a hose from tank reg to back of stove with selinoid hooked up in locker.
Am is missing something or is it that simple.
Thanks for any guidance or diagrams of your systems. That's the only propane we will use for the stove. Boat is a 40' Mainship Pilothouse.
Click to expand...
I switched from propane to alcohol a long time ago...slept so much better at night...:).
 
We are at GB shed 15 38 Holland with propane system if you want to see how it is installed. Just had survey all up to code. Let me know
 
+1 on Propane from OUR perspective.
We have an originally installed Princess 3 burner cooktop w/oven "Seaward Products" Mod 3372-1002
c. 2000 on our Mainship

I agree with others that your install sounds correct. "Technically" one might suggest a professional installation. But it isn't rocket science.

We have the tanks (one fiberglass + one exchangeable steel) outside the canvas on the fly bridge "sun deck", solenoid immediately inside undercover.
There is a separate circuit on the DC panel that powers that "system", PLUS an on/off power switch to the solenoid in the galley. There are also thermocouples on each of the burners that work to reliably turn off the fuel flow if the heat/flame "blows out".

Shelly and I grew up with propane in our homes, so neither of us are "wigged out" by this safe type of system.

One vendor whom I can recommend for parts and such is mentioned in this blog post:
Another galley upgrade! Rebuilt stove.
They are great with advice and customer service and returns etc.

It is really "nice" on a 20+ year old boat to replace the propane burners and "stuff".

We do use the oven for Shelly's homemade pizza at least once per week.

If you are mostly US-based + Canada + Bahamas in your cruising, propane is readily accessible. Some global sailing cruisers report on propane being hard to find in some foreign countries/islands. But, we go almost a YEAR on a single 20# tank... and we use it a LOT. No need for generator to cook!!!

R&S
Shellerina.com
 
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JosieWhales said:
Were switching over to propane from our 80's electric stove to propane oven with a 3 burner cooktop.
I understand some of the logistics but looking for some guidance.
We will install a selinoid shut off switch in the galley with an alarm. Plus a propane locker with a standard exchange tank with a regulator on it.
Tank will be roughly 10' from stove.
So a hose from tank reg to back of stove with selinoid hooked up in locker.
Am is missing something or is it that simple.
Thanks for any guidance or diagrams of your systems. That's the only propane we will use for the stove. Boat is a 40' Mainship Pilothouse.
Click to expand...
Consider spending the extra for fiberglass prone tanks. Tougher and no rust. This tank will be vented to the outdoors with a hole at the bottom, right?
 
There are certainly some "sexy" fiberglass and aluminum tanks available (East Marine and others). But in our experience, finding places to "refill" them is about 25% convenient as "swapping" conventional steel tanks. MANY marinas and many Wal*Marts etc. have swap stations. When cruising and you do not have a car, getting access to the "refill" vendors is definitely more of a PITA. SO, that is why we "own" a fiberglass tank we can refill + a conventional steel tank that gets exchanged out as needed.

We typically draw from the steel tank, and use the fiberglass as our backup. Some "refill" vendors get wigged out by the fiberglass, and after 5 years they have to be re-certified, etc. SO, all the benefits of fiberglass are countered by some disadvantages in our experience.

I haven't yet spent the big bucks on an aluminum propane tank. I'd rather put that money into the diesel fuel tank!!!

R
 
shloots3 said:
I switched from propane to alcohol a long time ago...slept so much better at night...:).
Click to expand...
Well pressurized alcohol is by far the most dangerous stove system ever found on a boat. I sure hope you switched to evaporative alcohol.
 
My father (US Navy / MA Maritime grad) always spoke highly of alcohol as a preferred cooking fuel on a boat, as its fumes are lighter than air, and will not settle in the bilge. Propane and gas / diesel fumes are heavier than air and can / will settle in the bilge. This is why most of us have "blowers" to suck those fumes out before starting our engines. According to him, the USCG considered alcohol as the only "safe" cooking fuel on boats at least for a period of time, some years ago.

However, the initial start up 12-18 + inches of flame-up of most alcohol stoves ain't exactly safe either!

Alcohol-based Sterno stoves do not have that flame up, BUT they take forever to cook most anything. That's not a solution for us! ((Fine for caterers to use to keep things warm, but not hot enough to cook with IMO.))

So, propane is what WE embrace AND manage. Technically, butane is what we used on our previous boat, on a nice portable table top single burner stove. Butane and Propane are extremely similar in their characteristics from my research.

If you have an in-board gasoline-powered vessel, the bilge blower is an essential step to execute before hitting the starter! I've seen two vessels go up in flames dockside for not using a bilge blower before hitting the starter. Not exactly my definition of a good boating day!

Plus many of us have read of news stories of such boat fires under "covered marinas" causing damage to several adjacent vessels... not fun to think about from a liability perspective.
 
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I don’t know of any insurance company that doesn’t specifically call out pressurized alcohol systems on a boat as not covered. Insurance companies don’t often exclude Evaporative alcohol, propane and diesel.
 
Many people told good points and in addition to them I’m advising to put a test point fitting. Its the best way to see any leakage on the system.
 
If you're installing a new to your vessel system, you will probably open an issue with your insurer. The install MUST meet the letter of the CURRENT ABYC standards. If you can find a sister ship with OEM propane, it will help to model your install after the OEM, but it's not a guarantee that a surveyor might flag your install. Others mentioned the locker must be gasketed, vented overboard, gauge, etc. I'd add there must be a hold down to secure the cylinders. Propane line to appliance must be contiguous, no fittings other than the terminations. If you have a 2nd user (gas grille?), the manifold/tee must be located in the locker, each appliance requires contiguous line. I'd stay with standard steel, all cylinders have a re-cert date, so the standard steel will be far easier to have serviced or replaced. They won't rust easily, by design, the locker is not exposed to the weather. Make sure when you buy a cylinder that it's not already years beyond the manufacture date, the re-cert is based on that date, installation date is irrelevant. Filling stations won't fill an expired cylinder. The overboard vent must be gravity, i.e. downhill, and not communicate with or penetrate interior spaces. If the locker is on deck. it's OK but a hatch to the bilge could be a disqualifier. The locker must have a warning label, verbiage is specified in ABYC. Some surveyors pride themselves on finding these obscure requirements and insisting on compliance. Point being, don't give them any obvious shortcomings to peel back. You would be prudent to advise your carrier of the install. Yes, you're opening a can of worms and will probably trigger a survey, but the alternative of not saying anything would most likely result in a claim rejection for any claim if they discover the addition of propane and no disclosure. They are wired to deny claims. Protect your rights. The overriding point here is to do your due diligence and mind the details. We cruised for 13 yrs with propane, and I had 2 nit pick insurance surveyors require modifications to our OEM propane install, minor stuff, irritating, but wouldn't have traded the propane cooking for electric, no way!
 
JosieWhales said:
Were switching over to propane from our 80's electric stove to propane oven with a 3 burner cooktop.
I understand some of the logistics but looking for some guidance.
We will install a selinoid shut off switch in the galley with an alarm. Plus a propane locker with a standard exchange tank with a regulator on it.
Tank will be roughly 10' from stove.
So a hose from tank reg to back of stove with selinoid hooked up in locker.
Am is missing something or is it that simple.
Thanks for any guidance or diagrams of your systems. That's the only propane we will use for the stove. Boat is a 40' Mainship Pilothouse.
Click to expand...
My opinion, for insurance purposes have installed by an approved company and certified techs.
 
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