Prop Smith prop puller question

[Pat T]

I have the opportunity to purchase a used (1 time) Prop Smith puller for 2 inch shaft. I am not familiar with these but looks like threads on most shafts are standard and I'm assuming my Grand Banks 2 inch shaft is also standard so this puller should work for me. Am I correct? Is this a good puller? Thoughts appreciated.

 

[Comodave]

I have never used one of those but they seem very expensive. I use one that cost less than $200 and it works quite well.

 

[cafesport]

Great tool but useless unless your propeller hub has been machined for it.

 

[Comodave]

I used this one. Gone up in price since I bought one, now about $400.

NO2N Walter Machine Plate Puller​

 

[Pat T]

Thanks guys. Pretty sure I will just take the chance and go with the PropSmith at a good discount. I notice too that it is also a prop pusher. Only question I had was to ensure threads were standard and I can't believe that Grand Banks used other than standard. Even though I will buy this tool I hope I don't necessarily have to use it soon.

 

[Comodave]

Before you buy it I would make sure that your props are drilled to accept the puller and verify that the threads on the shafts are right hand thread. Our last boat had one right hand thread and one left hand thread shafts. Don’t know if that matters with the puller in question but I would check before buying.

 

[Pat T]

Good advice guys. You got me to re-think. I looked for the holes drilled in the back hub but I cannot see them. I guess it is possible they are under the nut holding the prop on the shaft but I would have to remove them to actually see. Not sure I have the time to do this before launching. Then again I am not sure of what is involved in removing the nut(s). My prop and nuts have been coated with some sort of coating (not sure what) and will this make it harder to break free? Do I have to torque the nut back on?
I am told that I could always have the prop drilled to add the holes but my guess is to do this after the prop is pulled.
Hate to pass on a good deal on the PropSmith but I might have to.

 

[Nick14]

Consider a Prop Knocker. I've had my prop pulled a few times, experimenting with various pitches and more recently a new prop. Every time the yard struggled with it for over an hour despite it being machined with threaded holes to supposedly make it easier.

The last time the yard used a prop knocker and it was off in literally less than 15 seconds. They hand screwed the prop knocker on, gave it two whacks with a mallet, and off the prop came. I never saw anything work so easily.

Prop Knockers

Propeller Removal Tool Used for SAE J755 machined shafts

www.generalpropeller.com

 

[mijmoto]

I have a Prop Smith and don't want to use it. I have my main prop and spare drilled for the tool. That is required. We travel far and wide so the spare prop and ability to change it in the water give me peace of mind. Not for everyone. Jim

 

[jeffj]

Consider a Prop Knocker. I've had my prop pulled a few times, experimenting with various pitches and more recently a new prop. Every time the yard struggled with it for over an hour despite it being machined with threaded holes to supposedly make it easier.

The last time the yard used a prop knocker and it was off in literally less than 15 seconds. They hand screwed the prop knocker on, gave it two whacks with a mallet, and off the prop came. I never saw anything work so easily.

Prop Knockers

Propeller Removal Tool Used for SAE J755 machined shafts

www.generalpropeller.com

The prop knocker is fantastic

 

[Steve DAntonio]

The PropSmith is well worth the price, it is a brilliant design that is compact and works well for not only removal, but installation as well. I have been recommending these to my clients for years, and and few builders, including Fleming, now supply them standard with new vessels. Even if you didn't have the holes drilled in the hub it would be worth it for the price, you can have them drilled the next time the prop is off. In most cases, if the holes are there, you can see at least one or two. Older PS's used two holes, new ones use three.

I don't care for the Prop Knocker approach, and I cringe every time I see one being used. The shock they are imparting to the shaft travels directly into the transmission's guts, including the thrust bearing.

More on prop removal here Proper Propeller Removal – Editorial: The State of the Industry and Hybrid Propulsion | Steve D'Antonio Marine Consulting

 

[Nick F]

Related to the subject of removal, I have just been recommended to lap the prop/shaft tapered interface when re-installing the prop.

Is this common? Recommended?

 

[Comodave]

Related to the subject of removal, I have just been recommended to lap the prop/shaft tapered interface when re-installing the prop.

Is this common? Recommended?

Yes, you get better contact between the two. It is pretty easy to do.

 

[Steve DAntonio]

Yes, lapping is mandatory for at least the first mating up of a shaft and prop, or if you don't know if it's ever been done. More here https://stevedmarineconsulting.com/...08/Prop-Install-TS198-PropInstallation-02.pdf

A few weeks ago I encountered a loose prop during an inspection haul out. When the prop was removed it was determined that the aft end of the keyway was elevated, this is a a machining error, which in turn elevated the key, which in turn prevented the prop bore from fully engaging the shaft taper. The shaft was original and the vessel 4 years old. This indicates to me the prop was never installed correctly, if it had been, the prop would have first been installed without the key, and the shaft marked where the fwd end of the prop hub came to rest. When the prop was then reinstalled with the key present, the hub would have stopped short of that mark. The problem was resolved by grinding the aft end of the key, to allow it to rest on the bottom of the keyway.