Prop puller tools

[amxr39]

I’d like to buy a prop pulling tool for my new boat. There’s something called a “prop knocker” that is a brass nut the you install in the prop shaft after removing the nut. You then give it a whack and the prop is supposed to break free.
My shaft is 2”. My prop is 4 blade.
Has anybody used this? Does anyone have a better tool that they use?

 

[Comodave]

NO2N Walter Machine Plate Puller

Walter Machine NO2N Plate Puller on sale at Deep Blue Yacht Supply.

www.deepblueyachtsupply.com

This is what I use. Don’t like knockers because they transmit the knocks to the transmission.

 

[rslifkin]

I have a puller similar to the one Comodave linked to and it has worked well the few times I've used it.

 

[SIBERNUT]

With a 4 blade , any large 2 jaw puller should work. Maybe a little heat. For s 3 blade i made one out of 2 steel plates & a fine threaded 5/8" rod + 6 nuts

 

[BB-marine]

I'm not a fan of the prop knocker. It works ok if the prop is pulled seasonally or if it is a small shaft bore prop like a ski boat. As already stated in a previous post hammering on the shaft is not good for thrust bearings in the reverse gear.

I have made several prop pullers over the years for different boats that I have owned or worked on. The puller is not hard to make. I purchase two 6" round carbon steel plates 1/2" thick , a 6' stick of 1/2" B7 threaded rod, grade DH 1/2" nuts and heavy duty washers. Measure blade spacing for puller studs holes and cut a shaft notch in the plates. I use a counter sink bit to cut the plate that goes on the end of the shaft to hold it in place while pressing the prop off the shaft. Or drill and tap a pressing bolt like the one pictured. The puller pictured below I made for my Cutwater. I used pipe blind flanges. A bit over kill but the flanges were free! I made the same design for my Mainship pilot using the 6" 1/2" plate described above for 4 blade props. The Cutwater prop puller cost me $30.00 in material because the flanges where free. The Mainship 4 blade puller cost about $80.00. Of course a few hours of labor but that is free. When the pullers are completed I make up a box the store them in with the tools needed to pull the prop.
Brian

 

[Cigatoo]

How often do you plan on removing the prop? Your boat yard should have one that you could borrow? Our local equipment rental store had one when I needed it.

 

[jgwinks]

A couple years ago I bent a shaft and had it replaced under insurance, so the yard had to do all the work. They used a prop knocker which I'd never seen before and it sure looked easier than the prop pullers I'd used before. But as said above it looked like it could damage other parts. I'd rather use a purpose built prop puller. I once made a rig to pull the cutless bearings which also worked on props. It was two big angle iron pieces that fit around the shaft and bore on the forward side of the prop, and another bearing on the end of the shaft. Two 1/2" bolts and nuts supplied the pressure to force the prop loose. Similar to what BB-Marine posted. One advantage to a regular prop puller is you can use it under water. I don't think you could swing a hammer under water with enough force to make a prop knocker work.

 

[Comodave]

The yard doesn’t really care if they damage the transmission down the road by using a prop knocker. You will never remember or even know that a prop knocker was used on the boat.

 

[Clark]

I use a Propsmith puller. It sometimes needs heat to help it pop. Never a hammer. Four or five blade props may need threaded holes in the aft end if they aren't there already.

 

[psneeld]

These are all we used at a large Marine Max dealership. They work great, no collateral damage, easy to store and work fast. If it didn't work, the prop usually required heat and a hydraulic puller.

 

[amxr39]

These are all we used at a large Marine Max dealership. They work great, no collateral damage, easy to store and work fast. If it didn't work, the prop usually required heat and a hydraulic puller.View attachment 161652

I saw that tool advertised but couldn’t figure out how it works from the photo.

 

[psneeld]

I saw that tool advertised but couldn’t figure out how it works from the photo.

Small screw adjusts, large one develops the force. The open end ...... the flatter end goes on the end of the shaft, the beak end grabs the front edge of the prop.

Probably comes with instructions, maybe videos out there.... or call the manufacturer. Pricey compared to the neanderthal ones, but I thought they were nifty.

 

[Pascall]

A small burner and a block of heartwood.
Remove screw with shaft.
Remove the nut from Screw and heat the screw.
Drop the shaft with screw from a small height on the block and the screw is loose.

 

[BB-marine]

These are all we used at a large Marine Max dealership. They work great, no collateral damage, easy to store and work fast. If it didn't work, the prop usually required heat and a hydraulic puller.View attachment 161652

I have used this style puller in the past. It works good. It is called a scissor puller. It works best on 3 blade props. It is more difficult when using on 4 blade because of blade clearance. There are different sizes made. Marine service centers use them because they are inexpensive and they only need to keep a couple in the tool crib. I did not like using the scissor puller because when the prop breaks loose off the taper and the tool is not well secured the service technician is "in the Line of fire". "ouch" I preferred to use hydraulic pullers $$$. Larger marine facilities have hydraulic pullers available in their tool crib. For me the made pullers or the one that "Comodave" posted works best for the DIY boat owner. I use heat when removing a prop. Not much heat is required for bronze. It doesn't take much expansion with a puller to pop the prop off the taper. Monel needs more heat for expansion. I do not use acetylene it can get to hot! I have seen some shops pull the acetylene/oxygen tanks out and get the prop glowing. Not good!! I use a butane tank just enough heat to break the taper assisted with the puller. Good luck to the OP.
Brian

 

[psneeld]

Not positive what pullers can work this way.... but somewhere along the learning curve... learned to leave a nut on the shaft to prevent ejected props.

I too used the hydraulic puller quite a bit but like most techs I worked with, only used the hydraulic puller occasionally as it took much longer to get from the secure locker and set up.

 

[rslifkin]

Not positive what pullers can work this way.... but somewhere along the learning curve... learned to leave a nut on the shaft to prevent ejected props.

I too used the hydraulic puller quite a bit but like most techs I worked with, only used the hydraulic puller occasionally as it took much longer to get from the secure locker and set up.

That's part of why I like the plate and threaded rod puller. Works fine with a nut left on and has holes to use with 3 or 4 rods positioned for use with 3 or 4 blade props. Not the fastest tool in the world but easy enough to use and it hasn't failed me yet.

 

[Comodave]

That's part of why I like the plate and threaded rod puller. Works fine with a nut left on and has holes to use with 3 or 4 rods positioned for use with 3 or 4 blade props. Not the fastest tool in the world but easy enough to use and it hasn't failed me yet.

I always leave the prop nut on loose. I have had props bang off and would have flown off the shaft without the prop nut on. And sometimes the props come off without even a whimper. No telling.

 

[MacPhid]

I have a puller very similar to Brians, ours are 4 blade props so custom made for that. Had a local stainless fabrication shop custom cut on their water jet, 1/2" stainless, solid end plate against the shaft so the 4 mounting rods and nuts perform the function of the jacking screw.

James

 

[jleonard]

I had one similar in operation to what psneeld showed above.
It was one piece to carry, and easy to set up.
It was used under water many times.
My suggestion if you buy or make one, it needs to be easily used under water.

 

[C lectric]

I have a 4 bladed prop and use a home made puller using grade 8 threaded rod and nuts for pressure and a 1" thick steel plate. I also leave the big prop nut on with just enough gap between the prop hub and the big nut so when the prop comes loose it does not go flying and land on the ground to bend a prop tip.. Sometimes it argues with me but some heat from a propane torch does the trick.

I approached a local steel fabricator who cut the disc for me. I did the rest, deburring and smoothing the diameter , cut the slot, drilled the bolt holes.


One time it was lunch time so I took off for lunch and set the puller tight. When I returned the prop was loose. ?????? I've heard of that but this was the first time I saw it happen.

One thing bothered me initially which was the threaded rods did not quite clear the prop blade struts. 4 of them. I took a chance and tightened it all up. After some discussion it came loose leaving a few thread marking in the prop struts. Never seems to have bothered the prop as it has been in use since for the last 20 ++ years.

Cost ,over 20 yrs ago was I think about $20 for the disc and another $30-40 for the rod , nuts and hardened washers. All these parts were high strength steel, not weak stuff.

I take it with the boat when we travel afar.

So you don't have to spend large bucks to get a useable puller. It just is not quite as pretty or convenient

 

[tiltrider1]

I simply made my own out a 48” piece of threaded bar
And some angle iron. There are lots of ways to skin this cat.

 

[Mark Laurnen]

I found this on eBay and it worked great. Price was also good. I would recommend this product and vendor.

 

[rslifkin]

I found this on eBay and it worked great. Price was also good. I would recommend this product and vendor.

Mine came from a different seller, but in general that puller looks almost identical to the one I have.

 

[Jerry formally Epoxy Lady]

Not a fan of 'prop knockers'. Had a diver force one onto a Metric shaft thread and bang away. Needless to say, major thread damage resulted.

 

[amxr39]

Mine came from a different seller, but in general that puller looks almost identical to the one I have.

Does it work on a 2” shaft? Do you use it on a 38E ? Not a lot of room with the rudder right there.

 

[rslifkin]

Does it work on a 2” shaft? Do you use it on a 38E ? Not a lot of room with the rudder right there.

Mine has a removable adapter piece, I'm pretty sure with it removed it does fit a 2" shaft (but my shafts are 1.5", so the adapter to downsize the center U slot stays installed). The one linked from eBay comes in 2 sizes it appears, one for 1.25 and 1.5" shafts, another for 1.75" and 2" shafts.

I don't have a Helmsman though, so I can't speak to the prop / rudder clearance you have available. Here's a picture of the tool in place on one of my props. Basically if there's enough room to get the prop off the shaft with the rudder in place, you should have enough room for the puller.

 

[Greg QS]

I have a prop smith puller. I have a spare shaft. I have spare props. When traveling it is important to have spares and the tools you need to do repairs. Not saying you need to do the repairs, but if you have the equipment you need for the work, it opens up more options for repairs. Anything specific for my boat I try to keep the necessary tools and parts on hand.

 

[JosieWhales]

I use a regular pulley puller for automobiles. Worked and alot cheaper and a good tool to add to the arsenal.

 

[fstbttms]

One time it was lunch time so I took off for lunch and set the puller tight. When I returned the prop was loose. ?????? I've heard of that but this was the first time I saw it happen.

I have left pullers on underwater overnight. Sometimes with a stubborn prop that's what works.

 

[rslifkin]

With a stubborn prop I've also cranked the puller down good and tight, let it sit for a few minutes, make sure it's still tight. Then lightly tap it with something. Sometimes that little bit of shock while there's tension on it is enough for it to pop free (rather than just cranking on the puller until you get to "I'm gonna break something" tension).