Penetrating oil comparison

[mvweebles]

Type of penetrating oil gets mentioned frequently here for frozen nuts. This older Project Farm compares PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, Acetone/ATF, WD40, Royal Purple, and Kroil. He also compared adding heat via a welding torch.

Heqting was best. All penetrants were fairly close but Liquid Wrench #1, with Acetone/ATF being #2.

https://youtu.be/xUEob2oAKVs

Peter

 

[Ken E.]

Good info...thanks

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. mv. Thanks. I've tried a plethora of penetrants (sp?) over the years and have come to the same conclusion(s) that any "magical elixir" is better than none and heat is the ultimate (if at all possible).

 

[BruceK]

Type of penetrating oil gets mentioned frequently here for frozen nuts. This older Project Farm compares PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, Acetone/ATF, WD40, Royal Purple, and Kroil.
Peter

What about KY?

 

[mvweebles]

What about KY?

Must have landed on cutting room floor due to special use case. KY is a lube, not a penetrant, though some crossover usage could be argued.

 

[TowLou]

Heck spitting on it is better then nothing. :ducks:

I use penetrol and crc stuff. Pb blaster ehhh. Just like oil something is better then nothing. Some patience and a little heat if possible is the best help for the stubborn ones. Key is not stripping the bolt or nut before its to late or worse case breaking it. Ill say tho a little prep in assembly could make a world of difference by adding a little never sieze to the threads or to coat them to prevent rusting and galling.

 

[Bmarler]

I keep all the usual penetrating sprays on hand as they’re handy to have. But if you need a large amount to soak an assembly, the atf/acetone is king. So cheap to make a large batch. I also use it in my ultrasonic bath.

 

[Marco Flamingo]

Thanks for this. I have an exhaust manifold removal in the immediate future. Where the exhaust connects, I can already see that there is a bolt that is missing its head (upper right). The bolt head is gone but the washer is still there (surprised there isn't any exhaust leak). I know that the bolt was worked on 500 hours ago when the engine was removed (I can seen new blue gasket sealant), and am surprised that it was left without removal of the broken bolt and replacement. I am assuming there is a reason why it was left and it isn't good.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,

Mr. MF. There are a number of ways to approach that IMO. Most of which involve heat. Unless you are not going to be running that engine for a period of time before you remove the exhaust elbow, soaking the area with any penetrant might be pointless as it will burn off. IF it will not be run, multiple applications of "goop" is probably called for along with gentle taps all around with a small hammer. Interesting problem.


I think your major area of seizure will be between the elbow and the bolts rather than in the manifold itself so IF you're going to be doing any heating, I'd concentrate the flame on the elbow corners (where the bolts go through) rather than the manifold body/end.


Clear as mud? Good.

 

[Northern Spy]

Any penetrating oil that smells like wintergreen is usually pretty good for rusted metal.

We used to make our own in the Navy with methyl salicylate that we got from the corpsman.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. NS. Thanks. I'd forgotten about wintergreen. Marvel Mystery Oil has wintergreen as a component. I wonder if a mix of MMO and acetone might be superior to ATF and acetone?

 

[Dajinka]

If you have a Wurth Dealer local look at their "injector X" spray. its designed for getting carboned diesel injector out of stubborn heads. Around our shop it has proven to be the best penetrant we have found. Warning it should be used with good ventilation.

 

[Bmarler]

If you have a Wurth Dealer local look at their "injector X" spray. its designed for getting carboned diesel injector out of stubborn heads. Around our shop it has proven to be the best penetrant we have found. Warning it should be used with good ventilation.

but the website says it smells "fruity"

 

[Dajinka]

but the website says it smells "fruity"

Their definition of "fruity" lost something in translation

 

[CarlF]

Not a great test. Those lightly rusted bolts aren’t like a bolt on a 20 year old engine. Most penetrants need to sit overnight for really tough jobs. They all are about the same if you leave them only a few hours.

He also didn’t test MouseMilk. By far the best I’ve ever found.

https://www.amazon.com/Mouse-Milk-O...id=1663597082&sprefix=mousemilk,aps,84&sr=8-3