Painting project - How crazy am I?

[Fotoman]

I've been wanting to repaint my boat even since I got her. The PO had done it but it is such a bad job that I can't even beging to tell you eveything that is wrong with what he did. Orange peel effect, sags, dust, bubles, you name it he did it. So I figured I would have to sand the surface smooth and apply new paint.

So I did a little test yesterday and as soon as I applied the sander, the paint started to come right off (guess he didn't prime the surface either...). The paint was already starting to flake in a few spots along the waterline but I thought it was just because of the proximity to water and that the rest was holding ok. Not. Since I was already stripping wood elsewhere yesterday I tried a little paint stripper to see what would happen and it made the paint come off in no time.

Now I'm thinking I will have to strip all the old paint (that's the crazy part), sand everything (80 grit maybe?), clean and wipe down with acetone, prime and then paint with Brightside. Does that make sense?

*

 

[hollywood8118]

Fotoman wrote:

Now I'm thinking I will have to strip all the old paint (that's the crazy part), sand everything (80 grit maybe?), clean and wipe down with acetone, prime and then paint with Brightside. Does that make sense?

*

*You may try 80g. to start but brightside skims out very thin as it dries, you will need to fine sand it or all the scratches will show through. Sand it as least agressive as possible the first go through then get finer. Use the brightside high build primer to fill the fine blems, use glazing putty on the heavier scratches, prime again, the final sanding should be by hand on a large block ( unless you have a very good quality random orbital 6" sander )* The good thing is by looking at the pictures you can only make it look better!

HOLLYWOOD


-- Edited by hollywood8118 on Friday 7th of October 2011 08:18:56 AM

 

[HopCar]

It's going to be a big job but you already know that. Since your're going to all the trouble to prep the surface what do you think about spending a few more bucks on a 2-part Polyurathane? It would keep it's gloss a lot longer than Brightside.
Interlux Perfection has a reputation of being pretty easy to apply. I've never used it but I've seen a boat done with it and it was stunning. It had been rolled and tipped but looked sprayed.

 

[skipperdude]

Uh hu. Adventure into painting. At least it will keep you out of trouble.

Of course you could always go fishing.

It's all about the prep work. The more time you spend on prep the better the paint job will be.

I watched a auto body repair man paint a boat. After priming it was sprayed with a light speckled black paint I was told it was a guage of sorts to tell where you missed sanding the primer. He painted the hull black.

He also used truck bed liner for non skid. Sprayed on the nonskid and then painted over it.

Looks awsom.

SD


-- Edited by skipperdude on Friday 7th of October 2011 10:04:09 AM

 

[Capn Chuck]

Begin your sand with 100 or 125 grit, You will do too much damage with 80 grit. Move to 220, prime three times, 220 between coats and 3 top coats 220 between each coat. If you are going to do a job this big you might as well do it right. It will be a lot of work but worth it. Brightside is only going to last 3 to 5 years depending on climate, no matter how good a job you do. Chuck

 

[Phil Fill]

You could just do what you can not reach from the dock/slip and do the rest at the slip.* Each year I do an area section.* This year I did the starboard side from the salon roof down to the rub rail and next year will do the port side.*
*
*
The first time I painted the Eagle hull it took about 40 hour, one week that was 10+ years ago.* I used Brightside white gloss which blends/feathers well.* Every year I repair and repaint areas/scratches/dings.** The next time should take a lot less time, light sand and primer, then a gloss top coat.
*
With an orbital sander rough sand with 60 or 80 grit to get the majority sanded off, come back with 100 grit, and touch up with 120 grit.* Then apply several coats of primer and lightly sand between each coat to make the hull smooth and blinding white. ***At this stage you can go back repair/prep/prime areas until you are satisfied.* 95% of the work is the prep and primer as the final gloss coat, rolling and tipping, is a very thin top coat.* Just enough to put a gloss finish on.* You could use a clear gloss as the pigment/coving/protection is the primer not the top coat.
*** **

 

[Woodsong]

I like our new paint job on our trawler. The thing I like best about it is all I had to do was write one check and poof- it was done! Really glad I hired it out!

 

[Fotoman]

Several coats of primer? Really? Do you have to roll and tip the primer?

 

[El Sea]

Recently I wrote how I rolled-tip but what I didn't mention was the prep work. Before you start sanding and sanding and sanding - I watched the old salt use the purple pvc cleaner (by the quart).*A pair of gloves and a rag with the cleaner and wipe the entire surface down, let it dry, then he would*sand with a DA (dual action sander). The voids will appear purple and these are areas that need additional attention. The areas remaining maybe a simple 'glazing putty' to bring the surface up for a final sanding.

 

[Peter B]

HopCar wrote:
It's going to be a big job but you already know that. Since your're going to all the trouble to prep the surface what do you think about spending a few more bucks on a 2-part Polyurathane? It would keep it's gloss a lot longer than Brightside.
Interlux Perfection has a reputation of being pretty easy to apply. I've never used it but I've seen a boat done with it and it was stunning. It had been rolled and tipped but looked sprayed.

*Having had my hull proessionally painted just late last year, using International (Interlux to you) Perfection 2 pack, I absolutely endorse the comments above.* I have had poor results with Brightside in terms of longevity, so whereas Phil/Fill might be happy to do his hull in a piecemeal fashion every few years (a new part every year in fact), I frankly would not be happy with that approach - not for the outside of the hull anyway.* Personal preferences I guess, but Fotoman I had the hull of Lotus, which is exactly the same as yours, done professionally for 7.5k.* I regard that as an investment - in terms of looks and resale value added.* However, if that's not on, then for mine, definitely use a two pack finish for the hull.

See before and after pics below - the yellow stain and lack of gloss being the most obvious defects in the 'before' shot I think.* I've tried to choose comparable views and closeness.


-- Edited by Peter B on Friday 7th of October 2011 08:48:20 PM

 

[CPseudonym]

Forgive my ignorance but by roll and tipping are you referring to a method of painting by roller and brush? Can someone provide a link to a tutorial for a newbie?

Thank you.

 

[FF]

"Several coats of primer? Really? Do you have to roll and tip the primer? "

Not usually , the primer is great skill builder. I prefer a good roller .

The key is after sanding the primer that you have as close to a "perfect" surface as you can get.

One coat might be fine , but 10 might be required to get certain areas great.

They say "paint covers a lot of sins" , true , but the paint is only as good as the surface its put on.

 

[Capn Chuck]

Fotoman wrote:
Several coats of primer? Really? Do you have to roll and tip the primer?

*No.

 

[marinetrader]

I have another post on here about roll and tipping; I've done my entire boat using Interlux perfection. Its an easy process once you get the hang of it. Of course, what most people don't know is that to do it right you will spend about 90% of your time PREPARING for painting.

I have a video ( link on my posting) showing how to do it.