Apologies for my part in this digression but I confess to a fascination for exploring the Netherlands waterways and boatyards when looking for our ideal retirement boat almost a decade ago. We spent a total of 10 weeks touring in our camper van and found the waterways engineering awesome. On a smaller scale 400 years ago it was Dutch engineers that masterminded the drainage and flood control of much of East Anglia and The Fenlands where I grew up here in the UK.
Opinion wanted on an older steel trawler
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If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
Blissboat
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Exactly that
. It's true that weather conditions (temperature and humidity) have to be really favorable when using the two-part primer and paint, but that's also true of varnish, fiberglass waxing and etc.Trawler4me
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Has anyone tried building a boat using stainless steel? Other then the added cost what the other draw-backs?Exactly that
O C Diver
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Stainless steel can be a brittle metal, especially at the welds. For this reason, it's not approved for fuel tanks in inspected vessels. I don't think you would be able to take a set of construction plans for a steel vessel and substitute Stainless steel for the above reason.
Additionally, the joke about Stainless steel has to do with its name, stain(s)-less. To be truly rust resistant, higher nickel content is important. In the saltwater environment, there's a huge difference between 304 and 316 grade. As you would expect, the higher resistance to staining / rusting of 316, significantly increases the price.
Lastly, to make welds that truly don't rust, there's a term called passivation that refers to treating the welds. Doing this technique will add some additional cost, but as importantly will draw attention to those welds that weren't treated correctly.
Ted
My next question would actually be about the engines. Like I said I don't know much about marine diesels. Would you know anything about these engines good and bad ? Also does anybody has an idea about how much it might be to rebuild these ?
Thank you.Yes finding a good surveyor for the boat and the diesels would be one of my priority's. Inspecting the boat and finding hidden spots with problems might be difficult. One thing that worries me a bit about the photos is that the boat looks a little too new and shiny like she might have just gotten a total paint job to sell her.
On many boats of a certain age and size the Cat 3208 10.4L was the go-to engine.
Many tens of thousands of these were used in the trucking industry for many years.
The non-turbocharged 210 HP rating is the longest life version but after 36 years,
what really matters is how well they were maintained and how they were operated.
Based on the way the rest of the boat looks they very well could be in fine shape.
The hours are low enough that if they survey well, a rebuild is a long way from now.
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If spread out evenly that would be 2 hours a week, give or take.
I confess that's about how much my boat's engine got used for the 15 years I had it.
Having had a very sobering and educational experience of how serious problems can be covered up, that was exactly the point of my original post
Although a good reliable workhorse engine, the 3208 was not designed for rebuilding and doesn’t have cylinder liners so the engines would need to be removed and taken to a specialist machine shop if the bores were worn. Also you would need to check if oversized pistons are even available. Nothing is really impossible to rebuild but the cost will probably be prohibitive.
I am no expert on these engines but a brief check shows that parts are readily
available and priced on par with most other engine series'.
It’s really the removal costs, machining costs, rebuild labor costs and refitting costs would rule them out for me. If it was possible to rebuild them in situ they would be more attractive although they are also quite thirsty beasts.
It’s their age that’s my main concern especially the marine ancillaries but on a more positive note, if their overall condition is good (thorough survey and good sea trial results essential) they could give many more years of service.
It’s their age that’s my main concern especially the marine ancillaries but on a more positive note, if their overall condition is good (thorough survey and good sea trial results essential) they could give many more years of service.
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ranger58sb
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So you know, that's best to mean two surveyors, one for the hull and rest of the boat, one for the engines (and genset if you contract that). Engine guy is best if trained/certified on whatever engine brand you're targeting (e.g., CAT in this discussion).
-Chris
Mac2
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The cat 3208N is rated for 15,000 hours conservatively. My surveyor expected it to last 30k hours before needing replaced. The boat you’re looking at has 3300k hours. Your concern about the age of the engine is the real debate. I’m no diesel mechanic, but Ive rebuilt gas engines. Seems to me the main reason a engine is replaced is due to wear from use not age, i.e. cylinder walls , rings, valves, etc. The age related items would be gaskets, seals, hoses, dried up crude, etc-all items that can be R and R. Oil analysis on engine and transmission would confirm any potential wear factors (if done properly).
dutch-barge
Senior Member
1)We have a 95 year old steel boat, it is not much maintenance, stronger than Fiber.and you if you want to change it, a cutting saw , a welder some plates and you have anew seating area or cabin
2) Onetime we forgot to take the mast down, I THOUGHT <<<-- see thinking I stopped the boat. ran forward to deal with the mast and saw that we were heading into the wooden dock. Dock destroyed, paint scraped and a very very small dent
3) for the one who is interest in water ways in the Netherlands and thinks about buying a boat to travel the canals and rivers in Europe, or go all the wasy via inland rivers anc canals to the Black sea and even to Moscow, if Paris or Berlin or Amsetrdam is too mundane, look to joining the DBA ( dutch barge association (barges.org)
2) Onetime we forgot to take the mast down, I THOUGHT <<<-- see thinking I stopped the boat. ran forward to deal with the mast and saw that we were heading into the wooden dock. Dock destroyed, paint scraped and a very very small dent
3) for the one who is interest in water ways in the Netherlands and thinks about buying a boat to travel the canals and rivers in Europe, or go all the wasy via inland rivers anc canals to the Black sea and even to Moscow, if Paris or Berlin or Amsetrdam is too mundane, look to joining the DBA ( dutch barge association (barges.org)
Agree on carpet. A Boat Buyer’s ‘Top Ten’ Guide to a Pre-Offer Evaluation Part I – Editorial: The Woes of Carpeting | Steve D'Antonio Marine Consulting
Like all boat building materials, steel has its attributes, and drawbacks. Three thoughts, a thorough survey, including bottom thickness testing, is a must, and that holds true for any vessel. Two, don't compare the price to similar production FRP vessels, as these are known commodities with consequently lower risk.
Three, if you are going to own a metal vessel, you need to educate yourself about corrosion, because much of what you will hear from dockside sages, as well as many industry pros, will be incorrect. You might even consider taking the ABYC Corrosion Tech certification, the four day prep class will be a well spring of valuable information for you.
Did I mention a very thorough survey is a must?
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