New Reading Lights - How to Q.

[Bay Retriever]

Would like to install 3 new interior 12V LED Reading Lights between the port side windows on my 2004 Mainship 400. Wondering if anyone else has snaked wire behind the cherry wall. Also would be very helpful to know which way to send the 12V wires 1) up above the headliner and then eventually down to a battery source, or 2) straight down from each new light behind the cherry wall to the engine room and then to a battery source.

As I am not an electrician, I will most likely hire someone to either do the job or help me. So please feel free to chime in with safety and wiring requirements. I have attached some pics of where I want the lights to go. You’ll see blue painters tape on the wall. Here is a link for the type of light I am considering. Amazon.com

 

[Dougcole]

Best way would be to pull down the headliner and tap into one of the overhead lights along the port side, likely the one above the couch. If you are planning on replacing the headliner (did you do that yet? I can't remember) that would be the perfect time.
An alternative method that MAY work would be to snake it through with the wire from the speaker in the port side aft corner. That wire runs above the cockpit doors and drops into the space behind the fridge where the DC panel is located. You could add an extra breaker to the DC panel for your reading lights.
Two potential problems:
1. I'm not sure if the wire is zip tied in somewhere in the ceiling, it which case it wouldn't move.
2. You would have to cut the wire and I'm not sure if you can just butt connect the wires for that old BOSE system, if you still use it.
Lastly, you may be able to drop a wire down through the wall on the aft end, it would possibly come out just aft of the fuel tank (I've learned a lot about that area lately, more than I wanted to know). You could then run it across the back of the ER and up into the fridge compartment.
Hope that helps.

Doug

 

[Bay Retriever]

Thats interesting about where the port speaker wire is routed. That speaker wire often needs jiggling where it connects into the speaker as the sound gets muffled every once in a while. My headliner is in pretty good shape. Based on what you’ve mentioned, I’m going to talk again with the electrician at my boatyard. I already know he’s unlikely to do anything that’s not ABCY compliant. Curious if you have any idea how to snake the wire behind the cherry wood panel.

 

[Dougcole]

The only thing that comes to mind that may keep either of the methods from being abyc compliant would be accessing the full length of the wire run to secure it in whatever interval abyc requires. You would not be able to do that unless you pull the headliner part way down, which I would not do.
There is a space behind the wood panel between it and the side of the house, but getting to it would probably e very difficult.
I did the google to see if Bose speaker wires can be spliced and it appears that they can, so if it were me, I would start with that method.

 

[boomerang]

We've used clip-on LED reading lights similar to these on the last 2 boats and are quire happy with them. They're plenty bright and the internal battery stays charged a long time. We've used ones similar to the ones pictured in your link and they're fine but I do all of the wiring (and everything else) on our boat and sometimes the logistics of running a wire (correctly) on a boat just isn't worth the trouble. I can't imagine what it would cost nowadays to hire out the labor for installing 2 lights where all new wiring needs to be run and connected. I think you'd be shocked.
I personally wouldn't worry too much about following ABYC standards to a T regarding a couple of hardwired reading lights. Securing the wires every XX inches and the color of the wires aren't going to do much to affect the safety of your boat. Just make sure the wires are fused and sized properly.

 

[Dougcole]

We've used clip-on LED reading lights similar to these on the last 2 boats and are quire happy with them. They're plenty bright and the internal battery stays charged a long time. We've used ones similar to the ones pictured in your link and they're fine but I do all of the wiring (and everything else) on our boat and sometimes the logistics of running a wire (correctly) on a boat just isn't worth the trouble. I can't imagine what it would cost nowadays to hire out the labor for installing 2 lights where all new wiring needs to be run and connected. I think you'd be shocked.
I personally wouldn't worry too much about following ABYC standards to a T regarding a couple of hardwired reading lights. Securing the wires every XX inches and the color of the wires aren't going to do much to affect the safety of your boat. Just make sure the wires are fused and sized properly.

This. It’s not like Mainship followed ABYC standards anyway.

 

[Bay Retriever]

Doug

Based on priorities and $, I’ve decided to skip the install of the three hardwired permanent lights. Separately, I’ve asked the electrician to extend the power from beneath the galley table and install two additional receptacles (with USBs) along the port side cherry panelling. ( one midway and one in the aft corner). I feel those receptacles will come in handy with shore power and perhaps later whe/if I decide on installing a larger boat inverter and perhaps a solar panel or two.

Like you, I’m thinking the rechargeable lights should come in handy while underway, so I’ve ordered a couple from Amazon the other day to try out.

Now on to another post, lower helm station folding seat.

 

[TrawlerAJ]

As Doug said, I tapped into the fixture over the couch for these, ran the wire down the back of the wood mullion for the wire... We leave the switches off for the fluorescent lights, use the switch on the wall to turn these on and off.

 

[Dougcole]

As Doug said, I tapped into the fixture over the couch for these, ran the wire down the back of the wood mullion for the wire... We leave the switches off for the fluorescent lights, use the switch on the wall to turn these on and off.
View attachment 164046

Hey Brian,

Did you have to pull down part of the headliner to access the wiring for the ceiling light?

Doug

 

[Comodave]

I have run wires for lights above the headliner using an electrical fish wire. Took a few tries before I got it where I wanted it but was way easier than dropping the headliner.

 

[TrawlerAJ]

I don't remember pulling down the headliner. To be honest, I can't even remember how I tapped into those wires. I might have dropped the fixture down, and traced things back from there?
Boat is still on the hard, snow on the ground this morning! I'll likely get onboard in a week or so, I can look then if it would help?

 

[Bay Retriever]

You’ve successfully has rekindled my interest in the project. It sure would be nice to know how you snaked the wire behind the cherry wall. Did you first drill a hole in the cherry wall where the light was to be placed and then fished the wire out as it came down from above? Also would be nice to know how the wire makes its way from the headliner to the cherry wall. Looks like there’s a shade valance above both lights in your picture. Did you have to take down the valance?

 

[Newtrawlerowner]

Would like to install 3 new interior 12V LED Reading Lights between the port side windows on my 2004 Mainship 400. Wondering if anyone else has snaked wire behind the cherry wall. Also would be very helpful to know which way to send the 12V wires 1) up above the headliner and then eventually down to a battery source, or 2) straight down from each new light behind the cherry wall to the engine room and then to a battery source.

As I am not an electrician, I will most likely hire someone to either do the job or help me. So please feel free to chime in with safety and wiring requirements. I have attached some pics of where I want the lights to go. You’ll see blue painters tape on the wall. Here is a link for the type of light I am considering. Amazon.com

I installed 3 LED wall sconces on the port side. I did have the headliner out as I was replacing it so it was pretty easy. I ran new wiring from the DC panel across the ceiling attaching to the existing ceiling light wires and was able to feed them down the wood trim where I drilled a hole to mount the lights. See attached picture.

 

[Bacchus]

I installed 3 LED wall sconces on the port side. I did have the headliner out as I was replacing it so it was pretty easy. I ran new wiring from the DC panel across the ceiling attaching to the existing ceiling light wires and was able to feed them down the wood trim where I drilled a hole to mount the lights. See attached picture.

Those recessed ceiling lights pull down and provide access to the wiring above. It also provides a decent access to snake wires to alternate locations. I haven't done reading lights but did add an LED bar light above the bath mirror and it helped visibility a lot.
You should be able to assess your ability to feed a snake from ceiling light to behind where you'd mount the light before actually cutting an openning... measure distance / reach of the snake and listen for noise behind the desired mounting location. If successful a hole / openning at mounting location provides access to grap / hook a snake from above. Sometimes helpful to first pull a cord then pulling wires from ceiling above is easy. I'd try long & hard before removing headliner unless replacement is necessary.
Hiding wiring inside & under the window blind valence is another option if path from ceiling fails. Then you need to find a power source at fwd, aft or middle of the port side windows is a req'd 1st b step.

 

[TrawlerAJ]

I agree with Bacchus, pulling the headliner down is a last resort. I definitely didn't pull down any headliner. It wasn't an awful project, I just need to get onboard to share the details. Sadly, the high here was 43 today.