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Leighsaari

Newbie
Joined
Aug 3, 2014
Messages
2
Location
Canada
Vessel Name
UNTIED II
Vessel Make
1977 CHB 34 Tricabin
I'm a bit nervous so bare with me. As a new member I was asked to introduce myself to the group so I hope this is the proper location for do that.

Name: Leigh Saari
Address: Sechelt, B.C., Can.
Boat: 1977 CHB Tricabin named 'UNTIED II'.

We (my wife Anita and I ) bought the boat in 2009 and kept the name because it suited us to a tee. Our plans since we retired is to wander the B.C. Shoreline and visit some of the coast that I was brought up on as a kid living in logging camps. At present we are restoring and repairing (does that sound familiar?). I have recaulked the teak decks and replaced 2 sliding windows and the walls they were in. Also removed all the paint from the window,door,and bright work and am contemplating using teak oil because varnish is to much work and 3 coats of Sikkens Cetol was a big disappointment on the bright work.

I found this forum while looking for an answer to a problem I just got yesterday. I was trying to stop the FL120 and the elec stop button did not shut down the engine. I finally manually pulled the kill switch lever. The start button works but both stop buttons do not. How do I trouble shoot this problem. The engine is Ford Lehman 120 and the electric kill switch is EK29 hardware kit. The only thing that comes to mind that might have caused the problem is that I stop the engine from the upper helm and it took me a 1/2 min to get to the lower helm to shut off the key. My knowledge of electrical is very limited so any help would be well received.
 
shouldn't matter how long it took...unless the kill switch button stayed connected and fried a wire someplace in the harness.

The first place to look if both kill switches don't work is the solenoid on the engine itself...find the hot terminal and jumper it to see if the solenoid closes the fuel shutoff lever. I fit does...go on...

You can troubleshoot each button by starting the engine/or havean assistant look at the kill solenoid on the engine and put a jumper from ant 12V positive source to the wire headed for the engine.

If it kills the engine /moves the lever...it's just the switch.

If not you will have to isolate each wire run...there are several ways to do that but eacs had to have continuity or power at both ends if the circuit is energized (simplified language so the purists can relax).
 
Thanks for your help psneeld & Capt.Bill11.

I was luck enough to have one of my sons visit us for a weekend so we check out the solenoid circuit and found the problem was the solenoid itself. We had to order a new part from American Diesel. It took a week for delivery and 4 hrs. to install and adjust but I was pleased with my installation since my mechanical & electrical experience is so limited.
 
Welcome aboard, and glad to hear that you fixed the problem so quickly.
 
not so new

Lost my info from a previous log on. But since I changed IP and do not have my old info I just came back as new member.
Had to use new name and password.
Made many changes to the old "Out of the Blue". New electronics, new AC new canvas all around and now I'm broke. But the wife is looking at a Kadey Krogen 39:rofl:
 

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