Need to bleed air from fuel line

[NWpilot]

I just finished installing a new diesel fuel tank on the port side. I have two tanks that are interconnected that supply diesel fuel to twin Volvo diesel engines. When the leak occurred I shut the port side off and ran off the starboard tank. Now that the new tank is in I know the fuel line is empty from the tank to the tee combining the lines and I don't know how to get the fuel line filled without pushing a bunch of air through the system. I'm sure I'm not the only one who has faced this situation, just the most ignorant. Can someone please help me out as to the best way to approach this.
Thanks

 

[Turtle Blues]

Guessing from your question the line is off the top of the tank, in that gravity won't do the trick. I would attach a squeeze siphon bulb (harbor freight or any auto supply) to the line close to the tee connection, prime it best as possible, connect, shut off, start off the other tank, then switch. Maybe momentarily the first time to see what happens.

 

[Comodave]

What engines do you have in the boat?

 

[kapnd]

Turtle has your answer.
You can get a nice squeeze ball kit from Seaboard Marine complete with tubing and valves for isolation.

 

[NWpilot]

OK, after more consideration I see that I have a squeeze bulb between the Racor filter and the "last chance" filter on the engine. If I open the lines and use this bulb will the diesel return line allow the air to be pumped through the system and back to the tank?

 

[Comodave]

OK, after more consideration I see that I have a squeeze bulb between the Racor filter and the "last chance" filter on the engine. If I open the lines and use this bulb will the diesel return line allow the air to be pumped through the system and back to the tank?

It depends on the engine. That is why I asked what engine are in the boat. On our last boat we had Lehmans. They have a bleed screw that you open while pumping to let the air out of the system.

 

[TJM]

I have set up a fuel priming system which works awesome. Reverso makes excellent diesel fuel pumps (OP-7) for this. Most fuel filters have a mechanism to bleed the lines with top screws for air.

 

[kapnd]

OK, after more consideration I see that I have a squeeze bulb between the Racor filter and the "last chance" filter on the engine. If I open the lines and use this bulb will the diesel return line allow the air to be pumped through the system and back to the tank?

I’d move the bulb to an accessible location between the tank and the Racor, so you can easily refill following filter changes. Squeeze bulbs are weak on suction, so put it where it can work optimally on its pressure (discharge) side.

 

[NWpilot]

OK, So I didn't do my "due diligence" before posting here.
I have twin Volvo TMD40 diesels and the fuel piping prior to the Racors is buried behind the water tank, so not easily accessible at times like for a filter change. I like the idea of a squeeze bulb near the tank but access would be terrible.
I will look up the specs on my Racors and see if there is a bleed screw on top for air.
As you all have probably guessed, I'm new to diesel engines.

 

[Comodave]

My Racors have a bleed screw on the top but I have never used them. My Racors gravity fill so I leave the top off and slowly turn on the shutoff valve and let them fill almost to the top. Then replace the top and move to bleeding the engines. I put the Racor priming pumps in our last boat so all I had to do after filling the Racors was activate the pump and crack the bleed screw on the secondary filters. At first diesel with a lot of air bubbles would come out. Keep an oil absorbing diaper around the area. When the air bubbles changed to solid diesel flow close the bleed screws and start the engines. Your bleed process may be different so search on how to bleed that specific engine and follow that procedure.