Neco Drive Info

[DBG8492]

So our recently-purchased Island Gypsy 44 has cable steering and this beast of an autopilot drive in the flybridge locker:

It has a small sprocket on it and the chain (visible at the bottom of the pic) leads up to the shaft on the helm where there's a larger sprocket. Pretty ingenious setup - like the wheel drive on our old sailboat. However, nothing powers on when breaker is flipped. There are two different control heads at the lower helm, but neither powers on. Motor doens't power on either. Former owner said he never used it.

Anyone here have any experience testing these? I don't mind pulling her out and putting her on a bench to figure out if it works because I'm certain that if it does, it can be paired with an old Simrad or something to drive it.

Also, if it doesn't work, does anyone know what other options there are? The newer sprocket drive units are several boat bucks and I'd rather not spend that if a windshield wiper motor and some relays can perform the same function with a different (and newer) autopilot brain and control head.

 

[C lectric]

I don't know this thing at all so guesswork entirely.
What have you done so far to check why it doesn't work? You have told us little about what you have checked or done

Checked the wiring that it appears to make sense?

Checked for voltage at the motor? If no or low enough voltage then it cannot work?

Checked for blown or loose fuses? Blown fuses will stop voltage from reaching the motor.

Checked the circuit breaker for proper operation. I have seen breakers fail.

Checked that connections are CLEAN and free of corrosion? Corroded , loose connections can entirely prevent voltage reaching the motor which then CANNOT work.

This includes at the batteries. If those connections are poor then substantially reduced current will be available for the motor. This includes the post clamp of the terminal, the wire connection to the clamp terminal, the washers and nuts.

Do not use wing nuts as they are hard to set the torque and may loosen.

Checked the wiring condition for any lousy connections or breaks.

Listened to the motor while someone else turns it on and off a few times.
Checked the wire clamps and battery terminals for proper crimps, and cleanliness.

All connections MUST have proper crimps, terminals and should use heat shrink tubing to attempt to keep ALL moisture out of the connection. THis means the correct size for the connection and with at least a 2X heat shrink tubing or moisture will travel. If using heat shrink tubing pay attention to the colour for polarity. Yellow is now ground, Red is of course positive in DC systems.

Connections , crimps or any connections of any kind, should use NoAlox OR Penetrox OR dielectric grease To again keep any moisture out of the connections and protect the connections from moisture corrosion/oxidation.
I use pipe cleaners to apply.

I have on not too badly darkened wire and terminals used ROSIN SOLDER FLUX,
!!NEVER ACID FLUX!!, Coat the wire and terminal, if accessible, with the FLUX and then heat it gently and you can see the colour change from dark to copper/brass. I use pipe cleaners to apply the above pastes.
Assuming it works then coat the terminals with one of the pastes I listed above.

Before I disappear have you considered taking the motor to a motor repair shop and asked them to check it out.

Good luck

 

[DBG8492]

Thanks for all that brother!

I haven't touched it yet. I have had the wife cycle the breaker with my head inside the locker where it's mounted next to the "brain," and no sounds at all. And as I said, the head unit(s) - there are two - don't power on either.

The plan is to start troubleshooting it in earnest next weekend. We move aboard this weekend so things have been hectic up here - we're staying in an Airbnb while we get things cleaned up and do things like painting closet interiors and what-not. I am going to start checking the voltage at the breaker and work my way out to the brain and the motor - should be a good time chasing the wiring....

But yes, I plan to do all of that, and I *might* take it to a shop for them to look at. I've read about these drives a little and the folks who have them working say they're very nice and can be paired with some modern systems, so I'd like to get it working.

 

[DDW]

Most autopilot drives are very simple electrically. Apply power to the motor, it turns, apply power in reversed polarity, it turns the other way. There will also be a clutch, the output (sprocket, lever, whatever) should move freely with no power applied to the clutch, and backdrive the motor with power applied. The clutch may have specific polarity which must be observed. Easy to test, either in place or removed to the bench, with some wire and a 12V battery.

I don't think a windshield wiper motor would be a satisfactory replacement.