Mainship 430 (2000)-Two unrelated issues. Looking for some brilliant solutions!

[Water Colors]

#1-Winterizing for the first time, pumping non-tox through the domestic system took over 6 gal. Realized I must have been backfilling into the two tanks as there aren’t any check valves or shut offs to prevent that (that I could find). I have the water heater bypass installed. Any suggestions???

#2-Struggled with this one all summer. With the port fuel tank below half full, generator loses fuel supply and prime. Replaced everything including filters, hoses, clamps, lift pump, squeeze bulb with no change. Full tank solves problem. It’s like the bottom half of the fuel pick up tube has desolved or broken off. There is no clearance above the fuel tank to remove or inspect the fuel pickup set up. Very perplexing!

 

[CharlieO.]

#1 there should be shut of valve at the tank. Where are you adding the antifreeze? I pull off the hose that comes from the tank to the pump and add the antifreeze at the pump, I let the water from the tanks drain into the bilge then use a vacuum to suck the remaining water from the the waterline/tank and vacuum the bilge when all done.

 

[CharlieO.]

#2 can you add an access panel above the fuel pickup?

 

[ranger58sb]

#1-Winterizing for the first time, pumping non-tox through the domestic system took over 6 gal. Realized I must have been backfilling into the two tanks as there aren’t any check valves or shut offs to prevent that (that I could find). I have the water heater bypass installed. Any suggestions???

Depends on what inlet you've used. If the fill to freshwater tanks, then that's where it went. OTOH, 6 gals starting at the dockwater inlet might not be all that much when you count filling all the plumbing with AF...

NEXT year, you can think about changing to compressed air to empty all the water lines. That can make the process as simple as a) drain the freshwater tanks, b) drain the water heater, c) blow all the lines clear, and d) maybe bump a tiny bit of AF through only the freshwater pump.

That'll save all the work it takes to flush AF out of the system come Spring.

-Chris

 

[Comodave]

The generator pickup may be designed to only run until the tank is half full so that you don’t run the tank empty.

 

[Jeff F]

#2 can you add an access panel above the fuel pickup?

That may be the easiest solution.

Are there standards requiring generators to have their own fuel pickup? My boats have had single fuel draw and return lines from each tank to a manifold that supplies both the motor and generator, and valves that allow tank selection. That may be an alternative solution. To my mind this is a better solution than having the genset hard plumbed to a single tank.

 

[CharlieO.]

Dave has better reading comprehension than myself I failed to realize you were talking generator pickup and he has a very valid point.

 

[Cartouche]

open the cross tank valves to equalize the tanks

 

[Bacchus]

I have installed a RV/marine 3 way winterizing valve on 3 boats and they make winterizing EZ-PZ. Valve goes between fresh water tank & pump inlet and allows connecting a short hose ( included) to suck AF from jugs.
I blow out lines using dockside connection first but then use AF(via 3 way valve) to avoid any potential problems.

 

[Bacchus]

For your gen fuel issue... I think Dave is correct as many RVs & boats are plumbed this way.
Is this a new problem or always been the case?
Assuming the gen fuel line is siphoning back to the tank.
If the fuel line is elevated relative to the tank level it would allow/ enable a siphon. Can the fuel hose be rerouted lower to see if it helps? If you can find / add a low P drop check valve? It could also be a solution.

 

[porman]

I checked our generator fuel pickup yesterday. Unfortunately it is located directly underneath one of the beams supporting the floor. You might be able to drill a hole next to the beam and angle it out. Also, does your boat have the galley up? If so there might be things in the way, like cabinets, seating, etc. Our generator runs with the fuel level well below half.

 

[Heap]

#1 - If you have the RV water attachment, I drain down my water tanks as much as possible, then connect my compressor set at fairly low pressure to the RV connection with connection that goes to a garden hose. Then I open the faucets, including the windshield wash lines until they blow air. This does three things: First, if the compressor keeps coming on while attached, I have a water leak somewhere I didn't know about. 2. It really gets all the water out of the system, including the small ones. 3. It precludes adding that pink stuff.

 

[Mainship Pilot]

The generator pickup may be designed to only run until the tank is half full so that you don’t run the tank empty.

Diesel pusher RV's have this system in them, but usually at 1/4 tank. Half tank would be a bit too careful!

 

[Shrew]

This is a great example of why we urge people to maintain a unique thread for each unique discussion. Otherwise the result is the confusion upthread as the discussion traverses from winterizing a freshwater system to the fuel supply for a generator.

1) WATER: Yes you're backfilling the tanks. You should have shutoffs somewhere between the tanks and the pressure water pump. Unless you blew the lines out with an air compressor, backflushing would push water into your tanks. I just run them dry, then pour water directly into the tanks, then purge water from each faucet to winterize the lines. I want to make sure the entire system, from the tanks out are winterized.

2) FUEL: The generator fuel pickup is shorter than the engine fuel pickup so you don't run your tank dry with the generator and you have a chance to get to fuel dock. Similar to the emergency fuel switch on a motorcycle.

 

[Water Colors]

#1 there should be shut of valve at the tank. Where are you adding the antifreeze? I pull off the hose that comes from the tank to the pump and add the antifreeze at the pump, I let the water from the tanks drain into the bilge then use a vacuum to suck the remaining water from the the waterline/tank and vacuum the bilge when all done.

 

[Water Colors]

Thanks for your input. All you guys are great help. My water tanks don’t have shut off valves (that I could find), so unless there is a one way somewhere in the tank line, AF will back flow to the tanks.
I’ve got more work to do,!

 

[Water Colors]

#2 can you add an access panel above the fuel pickup?

No, no room above.

 

[WillieC2]

This is a great example of why we urge people to maintain a unique thread for each unique discussion. Otherwise the result is the confusion upthread as the discussion traverses from winterizing a freshwater system to the fuel supply for a generator.

1) WATER: Yes you're backfilling the tanks. You should have shutoffs somewhere between the tanks and the pressure water pump. Unless you blew the lines out with an air compressor, backflushing would push water into your tanks. I just run them dry, then pour water directly into the tanks, then purge water from each faucet to winterize the lines. I want to make sure the entire system, from the tanks out are winterized.

2) FUEL: The generator fuel pickup is shorter than the engine fuel pickup so you don't run your tank dry with the generator and you have a chance to get to fuel dock. Similar to the emergency fuel switch on a motorcycle.

Or a 1956 VW.

 

[Bacchus]

Thanks for your input. All you guys are great help. My water tanks don’t have shut off valves (that I could find), so unless there is a one way somewhere in the tank line, AF will back flow to the tanks.
I’ve got more work to do,!

If you install the 3 way winterizing valve shown in post #9 between the tank & pump you get 2 advantages. When in the winterizing position no AF can backflow to the FW tank... it only feeds to the FW pump.
Attaching the short hose included provides an EZ way to suck the AF from the jugs when flushing the system using the FW pump.
For best results you do need to drain your tanks first.

I also like to blow out my FW system using an air compressor and a fitting the screws into the dockside FW connection. Both of these fittings are available at RV supply stores or online.

 

[porman]

Our 430 doesn't have shut off valves at the tanks. They are located near the fresh water pump in the pipes at the floor, before the tee to the pump.

 

[Datenight]

Or a 1956 VW.

Last year of the oval rear window.
Rob

 

[Cold Duck]

2. An easier way to get full tank of fuel to the genset is replumb fuel line to tie into tank feed for engine instead of its separate feed off tank. Of course, this has issue that you can run your tank dry using the genset but if you are careful, you can watch your fuel usage. Mainship would put in all the tankage feeds and gauge then pop deck over so impossible to remove/replace especially on the port tank. Another alternative is to move the feed forward on the tank where there is more room to drill (with a 90degree adapter) and install a fuel pickup, but this is far more work for sure.

 

[Newtrawlerowner]

#1-Winterizing for the first time, pumping non-tox through the domestic system took over 6 gal. Realized I must have been backfilling into the two tanks as there aren’t any check valves or shut offs to prevent that (that I could find). I have the water heater bypass installed. Any suggestions???

#2-Struggled with this one all summer. With the port fuel tank below half full, generator loses fuel supply and prime. Replaced everything including filters, hoses, clamps, lift pump, squeeze bulb with no change. Full tank solves problem. It’s like the bottom half of the fuel pick up tube has desolved or broken off. There is no clearance above the fuel tank to remove or inspect the fuel pickup set up. Very perplexing!

You could try adding a T fitting at the lower tank shut off. (My 400 has 2 tanks with equalizer hose) Then run gen. off that.