Mainship 400 Fuel Tank replacement project

The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

Dougcole

Guru
Joined
Jan 21, 2008
Messages
2,335
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Morgan
Vessel Make
'05 Mainship 40T
OK, this one is not a fun project, not fun at all.

Port side tank started leaking in 2018, had an access plate cut in the side and had the tank repaired from the inside, cost about $1,500. It held for 6 1/2 years, so not bad, but it started leaking again in the same spot on the aft bottom a couple of months ago, so I decided to replace the tank. The boat has been in the water at the yard for two weeks now, it's a good yard and they have been letting me do as much of the labor as I can to offset the costs.

I did not want to lose much capacity, and the yard manager felt really strongly that being able to drop an identical to the old tank in place would save a lot of labor hours. So we pulled the motor and got the tank lose in the er to see what we would need to cut. After a lot of head scratching we decided to cut the floor and not the tank. Here is why:

1. The aforementioned cost savings of the reinstall of an identical tank.
2. Keep the same capacity (we cruise remotely, sometimes far from fuel docks). The current tank is 150 gallons and after a lot of measuring we calculated that if we cut the old tank and not the floor, we would lose close to 50% of the capacity of the tank. That was just too much loss for me.
3. I considered going to two smaller tanks, but the build cost on two tanks was much higher than a single bigger tank. Also, the plumbing would have been a challenge, and adding a second fill would have been a lot of labor.
4. I'm a good carpenter, and I could do all the floor cutting myself saving significant labor costs. It's been scary cutting, but not super challenging.
5. We are putting the cuts in a way that will allow us to pull the starboard tank through the same holes if (when) it starts leaking. Unfortunately, we will have to pull both motors to get the starboard tank out. One note on this in case you are wondering; there is no possible way to get either tank out on a single either without pulling the engine. The tanks are too long to fit through the engine room hatch.
6. One plus is that the engine came out easy. I worked with my mechanic on the disconnect, and the engine fits easily through the cockpit doors. He is charging me $350 for the disconnect and $350 for the reconnect.
7. I pulled the house battery bank, the electronic shifters, the inverter and moved a lot of wires to make access better.

I cut opened up the forward part of the ER hatch this morning, all the way up to the bulkhead. We thought we could roll the tank on its side and pull it out, but there is not enough room. So I had to cut a second opening on the aft side of the ER this afternoon. I will finish it tomorrow and I'm optimistic that the tank will come out at an angle from there.

It's downright depressing seeing my nice clean ER and salon in its current state, it's been a very discouraging couple of weeks, but I hope I am going to get on the right side of this project tomorrow. Wish me luck, please. Pics below.
tank replacement 1.jpg
tank replacement 2.jpg
tank replacement 3.jpg
tank replacement 4.jpg
tank replacement 5.jpg
 
That really sucks Doug. I hope you are successful and get back on the water soon! Since you have the engines out are you going to replace the engine mounts at the same time?
 
Yikes! I'm glad your carpentry skills are up to date. Still, I can see your logic of this approach.

I have just finished replacing my two fuel tanks and it makes an absolute mess of the boat. Worth it in the end though.

Good luck. I found a nice 12 year old single malt at the end of the day deadens the pain somewhat.
 
My mechanic inspected the motor mounts and said they are still good, so I am not replacing them. They are about $250 each, so it was a relief, this job is straining my budget in a big way as it is. The new tank is three grand.

Got the tank out this morning.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4815.jpeg
    IMG_4815.jpeg
    219.1 KB · Views: 37
  • IMG_4814.jpeg
    IMG_4814.jpeg
    291 KB · Views: 37
  • IMG_4813.jpeg
    IMG_4813.jpeg
    119.4 KB · Views: 40
  • IMG_4812.jpeg
    IMG_4812.jpeg
    187.3 KB · Views: 37
  • IMG_4811.jpeg
    IMG_4811.jpeg
    183.9 KB · Views: 40
Before cleaning, after cleaning, after prep and paint.

Also giving the engine a full spa treatment. I will add pics tomorrow.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4809.jpeg
    IMG_4809.jpeg
    126 KB · Views: 30
  • IMG_4816.jpeg
    IMG_4816.jpeg
    195.5 KB · Views: 35
  • IMG_4818.jpeg
    IMG_4818.jpeg
    221.5 KB · Views: 30
New tank ready for install.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4831.jpeg
    IMG_4831.jpeg
    137.6 KB · Views: 49
  • IMG_4832.jpeg
    IMG_4832.jpeg
    142.6 KB · Views: 48
Wow - what a job! With the old tank out & easily inspected, do you think there is any specific reason it started to leak?
 
Looks good so far Doug. Are you coating the new tank before installing it?
 
I think maybe the old leak was partially from a battery acid leak that ran under the tank. Also, the rubber strip under the bottom of the tank back there was slipped out so it may have been resting directly on the support. Hard to say exactly. It was a pinhole.

Discussed coating it with the tank company. They advised me not to unless it gets wet, which it does not. The old tank was not coated and lasted 20 years.
 
Pics
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4834.jpeg
    IMG_4834.jpeg
    154.9 KB · Views: 49
  • IMG_4836.jpeg
    IMG_4836.jpeg
    200 KB · Views: 47
  • IMG_4837.jpeg
    IMG_4837.jpeg
    127.9 KB · Views: 46
  • IMG_4838.jpeg
    IMG_4838.jpeg
    197.8 KB · Views: 51
  • IMG_4839.jpeg
    IMG_4839.jpeg
    183.5 KB · Views: 48
More pics. All that is left to do now is reconnect and align the motor.
IMG_4847.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4848.jpeg
    IMG_4848.jpeg
    188.1 KB · Views: 27
  • IMG_4850.jpeg
    IMG_4850.jpeg
    200.3 KB · Views: 32
  • IMG_4851.jpeg
    IMG_4851.jpeg
    119.3 KB · Views: 31
I'll bet you're happy to see the light at the end of that tunnel. Makes your little trim tab project insignificant. Hoping you have no unwanted surprises before start up!
 
That looks assume!!! I love the sight tubes. Make sure they gave enough air gap and support between floor deck and bottom of tank. That's going to be a great boat
Cheers J.T.
Thanks JT. I’m pretty happy with how it is turning out. One of the rubber strips that was under the original tank, right near the leak, was missing and I think that might have had an influence on the leak. We used slightly thicker, harder rubber strips and more of them. Should have better air flow now.
I’ve got about 150 hours of my own labor into this project so far, it’s been a challenge. Some of that is because I did extra stuff like cleaning, priming and painting the engine plus new hoses, impeller and coolant. I also did a repaint of the ER, even behind the tank where you can’t see or reach it.
Plus the stringer repair and the vinyl replacement in the v-berth and a new house bank (haven’t started that yet really). This boat is pushing my limits for sure.
 
Thanks JT. I’m pretty happy with how it is turning out. One of the rubber strips that was under the original tank, right near the leak, was missing and I think that might have had an influence on the leak. We used slightly thicker, harder rubber strips and more of them. Should have better air flow now.
I’ve got about 150 hours of my own labor into this project so far, it’s been a challenge. Some of that is because I did extra stuff like cleaning, priming and painting the engine plus new hoses, impeller and coolant. I also did a repaint of the ER, even behind the tank where you can’t see or reach it.
Plus the stringer repair and the vinyl replacement in the v-berth and a new house bank (haven’t started that yet really). This boat is pushing my limits for sure.
That's going to be a brand new boat when you done!!!!! Just in time for the upcoming season. Congrats
Cheers J.T.
 
I'll bet you're happy to see the light at the end of that tunnel. Makes your little trim tab project insignificant. Hoping you have no unwanted surprises before start up!
Thanks Steve,

Yeah, I haven't touched the trim tabs since we spoke, lol. I am really happy to see it near the end. It's going to take me two days to get the boat cleaned up.

Doug
 
Hello all, I do not own a trawler yet. LOL I have been looking. But I have a question because I looked at one that tanks were questionable.
My thought and idea ,please tell me if I am wrong or if there is something to prevent it.

Tank was 62 inches long about 24 deep and 32 high. Would it not be possible to cut out the side of boat in one piece ,remove tank ,replace tank. Put tabbing on inside of cut out ,replace side , filled with thickened epoxy, then overlay whole section with fiberglass and paint.

I thought that would be easier than removing salon furniture, flooring and pulling motor.

Please tell me we're my thought process is haywire. But this idea is in my head if I buy a boat and have to replace tanks.
 
You can do that and others have done it. However there are some things to think about. The fiberglass joint may end up weaker than the original. Steve D doesn’t like doing that if I remember correctly. In steel boats it is a very common thing to do.
 
Hello all, I do not own a trawler yet. LOL I have been looking. But I have a question because I looked at one that tanks were questionable.
My thought and idea ,please tell me if I am wrong or if there is something to prevent it.

Tank was 62 inches long about 24 deep and 32 high. Would it not be possible to cut out the side of boat in one piece ,remove tank ,replace tank. Put tabbing on inside of cut out ,replace side , filled with thickened epoxy, then overlay whole section with fiberglass and paint.

I thought that would be easier than removing salon furniture, flooring and pulling motor.

Please tell me we're my thought process is haywire. But this idea is in my head if I buy a boat and have to replace tanks.
This is the first, and hopefully last, tank that I have ever replaced on a boat bigger than 18' so I am the furthest thing from an expert but I will give my two cents anyway.
Every boat, every tank repair/replacement is different. It may be best to cut the hull in certain situations, but based on what I have learned in most instances it is not the right move. I think if you didn't care about the final hull finish after the repair is done your way would work, but the devil in fiberglass repairs is getting it to not just be strong but to look nice and match the rest of the hull. That's where your big labor costs would come in. Also, cutting a hole in the hull is not a simple as it sounds.
 
Just wrapping up this post. This job, finally, is done. Boat is back in its slip and everything is running great. Took me three days to clean up afterwards.
Yard bill came to $8k, which is about what I expected and includes $3k for the tank. I did roughly half the work myself, but I also did a lot of painting, wiring clean up, engine work etc that I could do much more efficiently with the tank and motor out of the boat.

Very glad it is over.
Doug
 
Back
Top Bottom