My understanding is MS used Awlcraft on all their hulls. That may only be the later models but pretty sure all the 34T / HTs used Awlcraft. Many people refer to their paint as AwlGrip and use it as a generic term not realizing they have 2 systems.
I followed the Awlcraft instructions and as I recall did have to thin the primer a bit to spray easily. Yes I did use the Preval sprayed for primer and it did a decent job. Try it without thinning first and only add a little thinner if req'd.
With very small amounts and several coats I tried to avoid spending more time cleaning the Preval jar than painting. I found a small plastic cup worked fine to do spot spraying - just mix the 2 parts and pour into a small plastic cup and stick the dip tube into the cup and spray away. It takes 2 hands but for small spots fairly easy. Then do the same w a small cup of thinner to clean the head.
The info I got from the old Yahoo MS group was MS used Awlcraft exclusively for factory paint and was from someone that worked there. If they used anything other than Awlcraft it might have been before the move to FL??
My touch up worked and matched very well.
Only problem I had was the remainder of the Qt can did not keep and was unusable aft sitting for a year+. Its expensive to do touch up when you can salvage the remainder for future use. I don't know if the Mfg would have any tricks to keep it usable? Worth asking.
When my painting pro buddy did his stripe he coated with clear coat (Awlcraft) as the final top coat and I think that is a much better solution and should be more repairable if it ever scratches.
Only other tip was one I picked up from my painting pro.
Obviously when touching up it is best to go to a break point in the hull contour... so in your case easy to start at the rub rail.
If you don't go all the way to the bottom / stripe its tricky to avoid a sharp edge. Instead of masking off a sharp diversion line we used sheets of newspaper taped to the hull in what I'll call the reverse of what you would normally do - so the paper covers your repair area then pull it away from the repair area and form a curve and tape the opposite end of the paper leaving a curve towards the repair. When you spray that way it avoids a sharp demarcation line but does leave s gradual overspray outside the repair area. That cleans up fairly well with compound when paint is dry & cured and blends much better.
Hope it helps
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