Long Range Cruisers: Parts, spares, and storage tips?

[mvweebles]

EXAM QUESTION: For a high level of self-sufficiency, what spares do you carry? What fasteners do you carry? What parts do you carry? Special tools? How do you store them? How do you remember where you put them?

NOTE - for those with larger boats and rollaway tool chests bolted-down in their engine room with a workbench, vice, proper parts' trays, welding machine, grinding wheel, etc.; I hate you (okay, not really.....mostly I'm jealous given the limitations of my 36-footer).

I am clearing out my storage unit in Ensenada trying to get ready to load the boat (no, not close enough for a departure date yet, but it's getting there). But plan to head south from Ensenada, probably pretty quickly to Puerta Vallarta 1300 nms south. And then further south from there. Not much between here and there, so on my own.

I have vowed to reduce 30-years of accumulate stuff including tons of duplicate tools, and a lot of oddball stuff such as shackles, pencil zincs, fids, hose clamps, padeyes, tranny alignment rod, hydraulic fittings, jumbo screwdrivers, pry-bars, pipe wrenches, you get the drill. Stuff that I am unlikely to need, but if I need it, I will really need it. Frankly, it's a bit overwhelming - any guidance would be appreciated.

Seems old-school toolboxes have been replaced with cheap stuff; or stamped metal that will probably has a half-life measured in days.

Bonus points on any additional guidance on what types of fasteners you keep aboard. Between machine vs sheet metal, pan head vs flat vs oval, 3/4" up to 2", nylocs vs lock washers, #8 through 5/16" with a smattering of 1/2", there are a LOT of permutations.

Peter

 

[Sealife]

Abbreviated version: heavy stuff low and fore or aft as trim requires. Rubber type stuff and chemicals away from hot ER. Tool bags are better than boxes, no rust or deck marks etc. Lots of tupperware with cardboard separators and desiccant packs. Paper list of tools and consumables. Bring anything you demand top quality on, such as oils, hardware, etc., once further down central America it's lots of Chinesium quality crap. I have a single so took a second engine in parts! Even simple maintenance items are hard to find or exorbitantly expensive...basic take as much as you can carry for maintenance and consumables. Took cloth and resin etc. for emergencies, never needed them, but was able to help locals or other cruisers. Had oxy acetylene torch etc. Most anchorages will have" guy with all the tools", just make friends with him, usually it was me

 

[Retriever]

Have you seen what James and Jennifer Hamilton did on Dirona?

https://mvdirona.com/2018/02/managing-spares/

They have a spares spreadsheet. I’ve adapted it for my own use. Bins each get labeled/numbered, and everything in them is cataloged in the spreadsheet. When I need something I can search on the spreadsheet and then go digging with some idea where it is.

Tools, especially speciality tools that only get used occasionally, are more challenging and I’ve gone expeditions trying to find the right tool more often than I’d care to admit!

The Dirona spreadsheet gives you lots of good ideas on what parts to carry, too.

Personally I divide spares into several categories.

1. Consumables…not really spares at all. Oil, filters, belts, zincs. I stock these in enough quantity so I only need to buy them when convenient.

2. Mission critical spares. The boat won’t really run without them, and if we didn’t have a spare, we’d be heading for port. Some electrical stuff, main engine bolt ons, generator spares, davit, windlass, black water system, etc.

3. Convenience spares. Things that would be a bummer to lose, but we’d be fine until we got somewhere where we could sort it out. Air conditioning and heating, a lot more electrical stuff, dinghy outboard, watermaker (mission critical in some places), laundry, etc. Carrying these requires a calculation taking into account likelihood of failure, inconvenience of failure, and cost (space and $$) in carrying a spare.

 

[Fletcher500]

I also follow MV Dironas lead and have downloaded their various spreadsheets in the past including their maintenance log. They have been there, done that, and know what is involved.

 

[Mac2]

Tough question. I'm not a spreadsheet type of person. I put all spares in rubber bins and put a number on all four sides. Each bin gets a piece of paper with the parts inside listed. I have around 10 bins. These are in the bilge and have to be moved around a lot-thus the numbers on all sides. I love my cut off wheels and sawzall for repairs, along with the necessary material to do remote repairs. The various epozy's are critical for remote repairs as well (putty style, JB weld, etc). The one thing I think that is often overlooked, and has a high probability, is a fouled prop. In a remote area a huge problem without some dive gear/air supply and a helmet.

 

[Marco Flamingo]

As important as figuring out which parts is how to stow them. I basically use the Dironas concept of see-through stackable containers when available. But even before that is knowing what size container will best fit an area. I measured various areas, put the info on my phone, and then keep my eyes open for plastic containers that will fit. DIY masking tape labels with Sharpie BIG LETTERS are simple to update.

My tool list just got smaller because I removed my Yanmar generator. No more metric onboard. Maybe a step backwards, but it simplified my tool kit. In the engine room, some spares are fastened off to the side of the engine right where they will be needed. Spare impellers (with gaskets) starboard side front, fan belt port side front, shaft packing aft off to the side by the packing gland.

Having acquired way too many wrenches over the years, I stationed some of my extras right where they will be (hopefully not) needed. For instance, a hydraulic steering failure would require me to disconnect the hydraulic ram before I could use my manual tiller. I have the proper sized wrench waiting on the rudder post. Other tools get labels even when stored in the tool box. Which allen wrench fits the windlass? Probably the one marked "WINDLASS."

 

[kthoennes]

I'm big into containers myself, but now it's gone off the deep end. One parts tray for water system parts and fittings. One parts tray for all electrical connectors and wires and fuses and bulbs. One plastic box for all canvas snaps and setters and zippers and lubricants and anything canvas or bimini strut-related. One parts tray for mechanical fasteners, pins, clips, screws, nuts bolts, etc. One tool box for mechanical. One tool box for electrical and electrical meters. One waterproof small locker on the dinghy for the night running lights, mooring line, bridle, small anchor, dinghy bilge pump and battery, handheld vhf... Now the containers are getting out of control.

 

[READY]

I use a combination of costco sourced translucent plastic bins and other orange or similar plastic tool boxes of various sizes. Still need to improve my organization but generally each one contains items related to a single system or a similar function. Example:Racor parts and filters or genset parts. Also I keep some spares tie wrapped near where used such as engine belts. I use masking tape and perm markers for the labels.

 

[fgarriso]

I was going to answer this, but I decided not to (it would take all night) .

I have a large SnapOn tool box full of every tool I can think of. On parts I look at every system on the boat and ask myself what may break and get one or two of them.

 

[GoneDiving]

For storage:

I've converted one guest quarters (which always ends up as a junk room anyway) into dedicated storage with racks, shelving etc and good lighting. You may not have this amount of space on 36 ft but do you really need a permanent area dedicated to the occasional guest?

Seating etc that were top loading stage, I've converted to front loading to take the opaque storage tubs mentioned above. One 50ltr/quart tub just fits, 15 and 20ltr tubs can be stacked two high. Tubs can be easily repurposed to new contents, are easily accessed and replaced, and their contents can be readily identified through the translucent plastic. Their space efficiency also means that a lot more items can be stored vs simply piling items in a drawer. Like "guest" quarters, I've found top loading storage areas just turn into a jumbled mess where nothing is ever organised nor easy to find.

For labelling, I use a label maker for tubs that don't change and simple tape and Sharpie for those that do. Those that have OCD can add colour coding, locations etc.

 

[ranger58sb]

For tools: I've divided tools into different boxes for different purposes. One for electrical work, one for general purpose, etc. Latter for work encountered all over the boat, but when I get closer to squared away, I'll likely have a separate toolbox for engine/genset work down in the engine room.

Fasteners in multi-compartmented plastic bins... but I haven't yet intentionally filled those so mostly I only have odds and ends in those now. Electrical supplies -- butt connectors, ring terminals, fuses, etc. -- in a multi-compartment fishing tackle box. Lots of larger spares in small (file box size) clear stackable Rubbermaid storage containers.

Stuff is scattered all over the boat, so all of our inventory is spreadsheeted. Generally somewhat current, too.

-Chris

 

[Gdavid]

A simple and effective method is ensuring you have the tools onboard for regular maintenance and repairs that you make to your boat. This sounds obvious but we don't always do it. A packaged "marine" set of hand tools will usually lack a few tools you need and include plenty you don't. If bought at a marine store, they will typically be cheap junk that is difficult to use. (Wrenches of cheap alloys and socket wrenches with terrible pawl engagement)

Force yourself to do all maintenance with the tools you keep onboard, don't grab a toolbag from home with higher quality stuff. Use the tools onboard to ensure they are up to the task. Occasionally go through the tools to remove the stuff you aren't using.


A couple examples:
- Line wrenches are better for injector lines and hydraulic fittings than standard wrenches so look around the boat and check what sizes you need, don't pack a whole kit, just ones to fit components on your boat. If you can't get a line wrench on your lines, get a dog bone version.
-If you have an old diesel with nothing but SAE sized hardware (and other mechanicals around the boat), don't bother bringing metric tools, seems obvious not always followed.

-Bring duplicates of wrenches for items like shaft coupling bolts which you may not be able to get a socket on either side.

All of this is pretty straightforward for do it your-selfers but for those who hire out everything, ask your mechanic what you should carry, this way if you are stranded somewhere and not a mechanic, a mechanically inclined person who may be around (crew, etc.) will be able to do something about it. Something as simple as adjusting alternator belt tension can be nearly impossible if the only tools aboard are a west marine adjustable wrench and SAE tools when the auxiliary is a yanmar.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. G I agree with the SAE set of tools BUT I would also add that crafty 10mm in both wrenches and socket. 17mm isn't a bad idea either.

 

[ksanders]

My opinion is that you cannot have too many parts and tools on the boat.

For example you mentioned fasteners. I keep two plastic Fishing tackle style containers of fasteners onboard. One is divided anbd is exclusive different screws. The other is similar but not divided and holds all my nuts and bolts. The screws are chosen sizes and head type. The nuts and bolts are from years of buying a few extra when I need one.

Another example is pumps. Pumps are mechanical things and they break. When a pump breaks whatever piece of equipment that pump services stops working. I have exact part number replacements for most of the pumps on the boat, and rebuild kits including spare impellers, etc...

How is this stuff organized???

Small things like hose clamps and plumbing fittings go in a gallon zip lock. Larger things go in plastic totes or just loose, and are stored under the settee, and the bunks.

My tools are in plastic totes. One for sockets, one for pliers, etc... plus I keep a canvass bag for the larger tools, and a plastic tote for the electrical tools like the dremmel, sawsall, drills, etc...

 

[kthoennes]

My opinion is that you cannot have too many parts and tools on the boat...

It's funny, I actually wondered what Kevin would say after his recent serious, long trip. Opposite of what I expected. I often feel like I get awfully fussy when I'm in the marina or at home in the shop. My heat shrink tubing colors have to match. I have to use a proper crimper, not vise grips. My bimini pins all have to match or it bugs me. All the LED's have to be soft white, if one is too cold and blue I toss it. That kind of thing. When you're actually *out there* though, it's amazing how you can make do with what you have, when you don't have the luxury to be fussy or OCD, or you don't have a vast tool collection at hand.

 

[Lepke]

My opinion is that you cannot have too many parts and tools on the boat.

I have a big boat with the room and go to remote places so carry many spares. I also live aboard so most of what I own is onboard.
Spare coolant and raw water pumps for all engines.
Alternators, starters, belts, hoses, boxes of filters, gauges and sensors, injector tips, parts for heaters & stoves, a large roll around tool box with enough tools to do an overhaul.
2 generators, 2 radars, 2 vhf, 5 GPS of all types and so on.

 

[ksanders]

It's funny, I actually wondered that Kevin would say after his recent serious, long trip. Opposite of what I expected. I often feel like I get awfully fussy when I'm in the marina or at home in the shop. My heat shrink tubing colors have to match. I have to use a proper crimper, not vise grips. My bimini pins all have to match or it bugs me. All the LED's have to be soft white, if one is too cold and blue I toss it. That kind of thing. When you're actually *out there* though, it's amazing how you can make do with what you have, when you don't have the luxury to be fussy or OCD, or you don't have a vast tool collection at hand.

On my several month trip I had a few things break.

* On one of the vacuflush heads the water valve failed open. I noticed this upon returning to the boat from dinner out. The fiberglass head space was flooded and water was just starting to come over the lip into the cabin space.

On many boats, mine included there is no individual shut off valve for the heads. This meant that I had zero water available, and no heads functional.

Fortunately I had a spare valve onboard and made the repair in about an hour after pumping out the compartment with my wet vac.

* The fresh water pump quit on a different occasion. Fortunately I have an exact equal replacement as a spare onboard and was able to make the repair in less than 30 minutes. Since my plumbing is rigid plastic, anything not physically exact would have required cutting and changing the inlet and outlet plumbing.

* on yet another occasion the macerator pump failed. This is part of my Raritan waste treatment system and has a 1.5" inlet and a 1" outlet. Fortunately I had an exact part number spare onboard.

So... you have to ask the question what if... What if these failures happened and I did not have the correct spares onboard.

Yes, I could have capped off the line to the leaking head and then searched for a replacement. If none was available locally i would have had to had one shipped to maybe my next port of call.

The potable water and macerator pump could of course been replaced with parts of possibly different physical configuration and probably available locally. But... again that would require changing the plumbing to fit the replacement part.

All the failures resulted in what I would call a critical system failure that would have made life VERY unpleasant if not resolved right away.

 

[psneeld]

It's funny, I actually wondered that Kevin would say after his recent serious, long trip. Opposite of what I expected. I often feel like I get awfully fussy when I'm in the marina or at home in the shop. My heat shrink tubing colors have to match. I have to use a proper crimper, not vise grips. My bimini pins all have to match or it bugs me. All the LED's have to be soft white, if one is too cold and blue I toss it. That kind of thing. When you're actually *out there* though, it's amazing how you can make do with what you have, when you don't have the luxury to be fussy or OCD, or you don't have a vast tool collection at hand.

I was just the opposite, full timing aboard with no dirt storage/workspace, 20+ thousand miles and a really busy summer job... I kept things running/working but never got them pretty or matching.

Felt bad but I wasn't going to run to the store, farm out to be manufactured or wait to fix when the schedule didn't allow.

I love to go, go, go and explore.... maintenance was only done as necessary and I never missed a scheduled date to be someplace in those 12 years/20,000 miles/3700 hours with a good set of tools, limited parts, good planning and thinking outside the box for repairs. Of course my cruising area allowed a bit more flexibility than most in just about all areas of cruising.

Can't say that's for everyone or nice looking Bristol class boats...but it kept me happy.

 

[Mac2]

On my several month trip I had a few things break.

* On one of the vacuflush heads the water valve failed open. I noticed this upon returning to the boat from dinner out. The fiberglass head space was flooded and water was just starting to come over the lip into the cabin space.

On many boats, mine included there is no individual shut off valve for the heads. This meant that I had zero water available, and no heads functional.

Fortunately I had a spare valve onboard and made the repair in about an hour after pumping out the compartment with my wet vac.

* The fresh water pump quit on a different occasion. Fortunately I have an exact equal replacement as a spare onboard and was able to make the repair in less than 30 minutes. Since my plumbing is rigid plastic, anything not physically exact would have required cutting and changing the inlet and outlet plumbing.

* on yet another occasion the macerator pump failed. This is part of my Raritan waste treatment system and has a 1.5" inlet and a 1" outlet. Fortunately I had an exact part number spare onboard.

So... you have to ask the question what if... What if these failures happened and I did not have the correct spares onboard.

Yes, I could have capped off the line to the leaking head and then searched for a replacement. If none was available locally i would have had to had one shipped to maybe my next port of call.

The potable water and macerator pump could of course been replaced with parts of possibly different physical configuration and probably available locally. But... again that would require changing the plumbing to fit the replacement part.

All the failures resulted in what I would call a critical system failure that would have made life VERY unpleasant if not resolved right away.

Hit the nail on the head! Water systems-they will all fail. My friends boat developed a leak under the galley sink and hundreds of gallons of water were pumped into the galley and saloon destroying the wood floors. I had the exact same issues as you-failure of vacuflush head (multiple times) and macerator. On my current boat, I isolated all heads. Quick connect fittings and valves are installed, so that I can remove the toilet for repair or replacement. My fresh water system (120 volt ac) has a backup 12 volt system. Like you said, these systems are critical. I know some new builds have a second fresh water pump already plumbed -switch a couple valves and your ready to go.
I think you should look at all your systems (not the entire engine, but anything with a pulley on it) and list all the items that you know will fail (every pump) and have a spare and tools to fix. Also look at ways to make it easier on yourself to repair by adding quick connects, valves etc. Also, put anti-sieze on bolts for easy removal. Superlube for every rubber gasket.

 

[ksanders]

Hit the nail on the head! Water systems-they will all fail. My friends boat developed a leak under the galley sink and hundreds of gallons of water were pumped into the galley and saloon destroying the wood floors. I had the exact same issues as you-failure of vacuflush head (multiple times) and macerator. On my current boat, I isolated all heads. Quick connect fittings and valves are installed, so that I can remove the toilet for repair or replacement. My fresh water system (120 volt ac) has a backup 12 volt system. Like you said, these systems are critical. I know some new builds have a second fresh water pump already plumbed -switch a couple valves and your ready to go.
I think you should look at all your systems (not the entire engine, but anything with a pulley on it) and list all the items that you know will fail (every pump) and have a spare and tools to fix. Also look at ways to make it easier on yourself to repair by adding quick connects, valves etc. Also, put anti-sieze on bolts for easy removal. Superlube for every rubber gasket.

Here is a great example of planning for maintenance...

On my boat, like many boats the macerator pump is located downhill of both hoses. This makes for a HUGE nasty, smelly mess when you need to service the pump.

I moved my pump several years ago so it is a bit higher than the surrounding hoses, making replacement much less unplesant.

 

[bvaldyke]

Plumbing was a learning lesson to me - looked like 1/2 PEX, but it is really 15mm. Try finding metric PEX on the shelf... Spares should include extra connectors and a couple of feet of each size pipe that your house water system uses. And spare shutoff valve also - to isolate anything that springs a leak inside it (dishwasher, icemaker, etc...).

In lieu of spare slip-on connectors for everything, a set of PEX crimpers and bands are useful to improvise plumbing solutions using what ever is locally available.