Living aboard on the inside passage

[GrandWood]

What is your preference between SJs and Gulf islands? I do plan on a NEXUS. I know you can stay for six months. Do you know how long you have to leave before returning to Canada?

After spending six months in Canada as a visitor,
there's no hard rule on how long you must wait to return, but you must convince the Canada Border Services Agency (CBSA) that you aren't living in Canada; officers look for ties to your home country, sufficient funds, and intent to leave, and might grant a shorter stay or deny entry if you seem to be trying to reside there, so a return soon after could raise suspicion.

 

[GrandWood]

I think that 44 days Canadian is equal to 30 days U.S.

This just reminded me that Washington state has a boater card requirement. I completed an online test years ago. I remember I missed one question having to do with "personal watercraft" (you can't shoot at them). I don't remember getting a card and if I did, I have no idea where it is. When I mentioned this to my wife, she instantly pulled hers out of her purse. So for me it's no more than 44 days if solo?

No one’s ever mentioned a WA boater card? Seems my insurance company would have asked if I even had one. When ya register a boat seems they would want to see it as well before giving ya a tag. Wonder how much they charge for that one. Guess I’ll go see now that you mention it.

 

[Portage_Bay]

I read the NEXUS card is 120.00 per adult, and then there’s some other app to reenter the U.S. just seems so daunting to get all this crap to cruise around canada

You don't need a NEXUS card. I don't have one, been in and out of Canada by boat and car more times than I can count. The CPB roam app is not required to re-enter the US by boat. It just makes it easier. You don't have to report to a port of entry, cross the border, fire up the app, you're in. The wrinkle is it works better on iPhone than Android.

 

[Frosty]

Can’t ya just go to ports of entry entering or leaving Canada, show um your passport, dog vaccination papers, annswer there questions and that’s it. Do you really need all this online BS.

The two places I entered Canada, there wasn't anyone to "show" anything to. They both happened to be at marinas. You did not need to pay for a slip though, and check-in only took a few minutes.

There used to be "wall phones" that you would call from. At least at the places I went, the wall phones are decommissioned or gone. Now you use your cell phone, or, I imagine the marina office would let you use their phone if you were phone-less. No need of an app. BUT you have to go to one of the locations. Here you can find where they are:

Telephone Reporting Site/Marine (TRS/M) | Directory of CBSA Offices and Services | Canada Border Services Agency

The Directory provides the official list of all CBSA offices, their contact information and the services they offer.

www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca

The reason they still have designated places to call from now (even though the phones are no longer there) is that these are places where they can come to to board you, if they decided they want to (sometimes it's for a reason; sometimes it's random). You cannot call from being on anchor. I didn't stay at any marina though: I stopped there, checked in while tied up (happened to fuel up), and then moved on to my anchorage point.

********
Coming back into the US, I almost felt like I had to download and install the CBP Roam app. Like you, I'm app averse. Ugh. I put the app on a tablet that I use at the helm for charts, etc.

Now I did see that US marinas that are also designated check-in points supposedly had a tablet you could use where they had put the CBP Roam app on it and made it available to the public. However, I needed to anchor before I could get to those (indeed it would have been a few days). So I surrendered and downloaded the app. I will say, it was nice to just be able to anchor, "check in" on the app, and be done (though I imagine they can direct you to a port of call if they want to check you out more thoroughly).

I think that perhaps even returning US citizens have to buy a decal if over ~26'? I'm not sure as I slipped by under that. So no charge for me in either direction. No need to buy NEXUS.

Does Canada charge you to enter the country

 

[Mac2]

No one’s ever mentioned a WA boater card? Seems my insurance company would have asked if I even had one. When ya register a boat seems they would want to see it as well before giving ya a tag. Wonder how much they charge for that one. Guess I’ll go see now that you mention it.

My buddy just did the online course for the Wa boaters card: $10.50

 

[DDW]

Entering Canada is usually easier than returning home to the US. If you are using the CBP Roam app and they wave you through, about the same. If you apply for Verified Traveler status, or you have a history of back and forth, they usually wave you through.

I got searched once going into Canada, it was the first entry after Covid. Took about an hour for them to come, look, and leave. Returning to Washington, never been searched, before the app you had to check in at the customs office. However returning to the US on the east coast, had to call and have the customs officer meet us on the dock. They looked at passports and boat papers, but would not come aboard even when invited. Said they weren't allowed. Hard to searched you if they aren't allowed to board.

This summer, in Canada, was boarded on the water by a joint CBP/Mounty operation. They checked passports, papers, and entry number. Very polite and professional, took about 15 minutes. That is the only time I've ever been asked for any paper work in Canada, after entry. They were boarding everyone that went by with a US ensign or reg.

 

[porman]

Can’t ya just go to ports of entry entering or leaving Canada, show um your passport, dog vaccination papers, annswer there questions and that’s it. Do you really need all this online BS.

Does Canada charge you to enter the country

That's exactly how it works. Go to a Canadian Customs dock, pick up the phone, and answer a few questions. No fees required. And if you've been through before in the past they might greet you by name after giving them your boat HIN. There is a fee to get back in the US if your boat is 30 ft or more. I think it is still $26. Fill out a form online and pay before you go. We use the ROAM app by cell phone when coming back and have never had to report in person.

 

[Portage_Bay]

Last year I entered Canada at Port Sidney then again at Bedwell. Both places still had the dedicated phones. Fastest was Port Sidney, took about 5 minutes. Longest was Bedwell, took well over an hour before the phone connected to an officer.

Returning to the US you should have the DTOPS decal. If you don't and use the CBP Roam app you may be required to go to a customs office for check in. Checking in without the DTOPS decal is a $19 fee.

Over all I've gotten far harsher treatment at the US border than the Canadian border. Boardings on the US side once cleared have been far more rude and taken much longer.

 

[stevemitchell]

What is your preference between SJs and Gulf islands? I do plan on a NEXUS. I know you can stay for six months. Do you know how long you have to leave before returning to Canada?

No preference either way. Both have great spots to provision, anchor, explore, etc.

 

[porman]

Just checked, the DTOPS fee is now $36.94.

 

[Frosty]

Entering Canada is usually easier than returning home to the US. If you are using the CBP Roam app and they wave you through, about the same. If you apply for Verified Traveler status, or you have a history of back and forth, they usually wave you through.

Above when I said "Preferred Traveler" (going from memory), I now see I should have said "Verified Traveler."

I would say it's worth it to check the box for this, because then (according to what they told me) you can clear in while underway or at anchor. I WAS at anchor but the app asked me what marina I was at. Then when they called me they said okay no problem but ..... then I did get the VT also.

So when I first used CBP Roam, it did ask me if I wanted to join the VT thing. I actualy turned it down (wanted to research), but then about an hour later I got a message saying "Welcome, you are now a Verified Traveler!" So much for declining it.

But anyway, I would just say "yes" knowing what I know now, and then you are more free to check in while underway or at anchor (this is for entering the US).


Canada still requires you to be at one of the "special phone" locations, though at least the two places I checked in, there was no more phone (one place it was still there but taped off and obviously defunct). I guess they do still exist in some places. But you still have to be there; not underway; not at anchor.

 

[Airstream345]

We've cruised up and down the Inside Passage for the last three summers (Seattle to Haines or Sitka and back) typically returning in August—chasing sunshine—and then spending the winter in Friday Harbor. This season, we decided we liked SEAK so much that we moved to Alaska (PO Box, Driver's Licenses, Car, Boat Reg, etc) and are currently wintering in Petersburg. We also prefer to anchor, but in the winter it's pretty nice—and easy—to be on a dock near town, groceries, and other conveniences.

We absolutely love every part of BC along the way. While the scenery north of Cape Caution is hard to beat—and you could spend months exploring bays, fjords, and small villages—services get quite sparse between Port McNeill and Prince Rupert, with Shearwater being a notable exception.

Regarding NEXUS: if you're not transiting often, you can just use the designated entry ports on both sides. But if you’re going back and forth regularly, NEXUS will definitely simplify and streamline the process. Keep in mind that everyone onboard needs NEXUS to cross under the program.

We haven't had the opportunity to do the outside of Vancouver Island yet, but having gone outside of Baranof and Chichagof in the summer—when the Pacific is relatively calm—I wouldn’t be eager to be on the outside in the winter.

Many marinas have winter moorage rates, where they rent out long linear docks—used mainly for summer transient moorage—by the foot, and switch to reasonably priced monthly rates from about October 1 to April 1. Recently, I’ve seen ads from Deer Harbor, Victoria, and other desirable places along the IP.

And who knows—maybe you'll get the bug in a big way and end up here in Petersburg, Hoonah, or even Pelican. It’s pretty amazing up here in the winter. Rainy, yes, but quiet, lovely, and a lot of fun.

 

[Mac2]

We've cruised up and down the Inside Passage for the last three summers (Seattle to Haines or Sitka and back) typically returning in August—chasing sunshine—and then spending the winter in Friday Harbor. This season, we decided we liked SEAK so much that we moved to Alaska (PO Box, Driver's Licenses, Car, Boat Reg, etc) and are currently wintering in Petersburg. We also prefer to anchor, but in the winter it's pretty nice—and easy—to be on a dock near town, groceries, and other conveniences.

We absolutely love every part of BC along the way. While the scenery north of Cape Caution is hard to beat—and you could spend months exploring bays, fjords, and small villages—services get quite sparse between Port McNeill and Prince Rupert, with Shearwater being a notable exception.

Regarding NEXUS: if you're not transiting often, you can just use the designated entry ports on both sides. But if you’re going back and forth regularly, NEXUS will definitely simplify and streamline the process. Keep in mind that everyone onboard needs NEXUS to cross under the program.

We haven't had the opportunity to do the outside of Vancouver Island yet, but having gone outside of Baranof and Chichagof in the summer—when the Pacific is relatively calm—I wouldn’t be eager to be on the outside in the winter.

Many marinas have winter moorage rates, where they rent out long linear docks—used mainly for summer transient moorage—by the foot, and switch to reasonably priced monthly rates from about October 1 to April 1. Recently, I’ve seen ads from Deer Harbor, Victoria, and other desirable places along the IP.

And who knows—maybe you'll get the bug in a big way and end up here in Petersburg, Hoonah, or even Pelican. It’s pretty amazing up here in the winter. Rainy, yes, but quiet, lovely, and a lot of fun.

Good information. I have considered SE Alaska as a new home port. Living in Seattle is making that decision much easier. I have some other questions I will PM you with later if that’s ok

 

[Airstream345]

Absolutely. Happy to jump on a zoom too.

 

[Jeff F]

After spending six months in Canada as a visitor,
there's no hard rule on how long you must wait to return, but you must convince the Canada Border Services Agency (CBSA) that you aren't living in Canada; officers look for ties to your home country, sufficient funds, and intent to leave, and might grant a shorter stay or deny entry if you seem to be trying to reside there, so a return soon after could raise suspicion.

Right. Very similar to long-standing US policy for Canadians. As long as you are clearly visiting there shouldn't be an issue.

If this is a good rule (after 44 days, prove competency) that keeps us all safer, then why not require it at the time of entry? It would make a whole lot more sense, wouldn't it?

Not for the majority who will be out of the jurisdiction in 45 days.

 

[DDW]

I've found you can call Canadian customs from your cell phone, even if there is a phone on the dock. The people you are talking to are back east anyway. But you do have to be at the dock of a designated point of entry, and if they want to search you, you must wait there until they arrive and search.

Yes, I'd forgotten about the DTOPs decal. You can purchase online, it will immediately give you a receipt and very shortly the decal number, either of which seems to satisfy CBP.

On the Verified Traveler thing - you can check the box and they will tell you you are Verified, but there now seems to be an additional step of entering a number into the Roam app. That doesn't happen automatically, at least it didn't this time for us. I was told to go to the customs office and they would give me the number to enter. Should do that someday - but I've always been waved through with the app anyway. In some places that is really useful, for example going north from Prince Rupert. It's a long way to the customs office in Ketchikan so a lot of people overnight in Foggy Bay - but you need prior authorization to do that. In addition, if you are going up the Revillagigido channel it is a ways up to Ketchikan and back again to the fjords. We used to wait till Prince Rupert cell coverage was getting very thin and try to get in the CPB Roam entry before we lost it. Now with Starlink, it's easy. They don't want you declaring your entry on Roam before you are actually at the line, I've been chastised for that!

 

[Frosty]

On the Verified Traveler thing - you can check the box and they will tell you you are Verified, but there now seems to be an additional step of entering a number into the Roam app.

Huh. Funny thing is I checked the "no thanks" box and it still said now you are a VT. I did check in one more time after I had that status and no mention of anything being awry -- although that second time I was at a town day dock not at anchor. So hmmm. Guess I'll keep that in mind now for future. You know, in case I'm an Unverified Verified Traveler.

 

[DDW]

It will say you are a Verified Traveler but won't bring you up that way next time in the app. At least that was my experience, and the explanation I received from CBP.

 

[Frosty]

It will say you are a Verified Traveler but won't bring you up that way next time in the app. At least that was my experience, and the explanation I received from CBP.

Okay, good to know. When you say "bring you up that way".... what would I be looking for? The one time I checked in (after that first time when it said hey you are a VT now)..... my check in went through but..... I don't really know what I'm looking for in terms of it just showing me as a VT. So if I grab the boat iPad and open CBP Roam (but don't use it) does it show me something? Will it try to check me in or some nightmare?

 

[DDW]

As I vaguely recall, if you go to the Travellers tab, it will show a checkmark next to your name if you are Verified. Touch your name and you get some details about yourself, including if you are on a Trusted Traveler program.

 

[Frosty]

@DDW
Thank you! Maybe I will try that first with my iPad on Airplane Mode (not sure if it will come up then, but I'll try it first because I'm afraid it will just suddenly go to town and I'll be connected to customs. (Only used it twice and can't remember if that happens.)

Now I (and anyone else) know to look for the check mark.

 

[Mac2]

Soooooo, if I plan on entering Canada by boat maybe 2-4 times a year what is better? CBP roam, or Nexus? Disregard which one is easier to obtain. My preference is to be able to clear by phone-Wife and myself. Also, how often do you renew? I know you have to have the interview with Nexus, hopefully this isn’t every year. Thanks.

 

[porman]

CBD ROAM is only used for coming back into the US. All you have to do is download their app on your phone and give them your and your spouses information. When you cross the border you open their app on your phone and it connects you to them. They may start a video call or just talk to you. One note: the screen on my wifes latest phone was too small to show the "start video call" so they actually called me on my phone to finish up. They've always cleared us by phone and we've never been told we have to report anywhere. We've never used NEXUS so don't know much about it.

 

[DDW]

@DDW
Thank you! Maybe I will try that first with my iPad on Airplane Mode (not sure if it will come up then, but I'll try it first because I'm afraid it will just suddenly go to town and I'll be connected to customs. (Only used it twice and can't remember if that happens.)

Now I (and anyone else) know to look for the check mark.

You can log in and look at the travelers you have entered. You can even start the procedure to check in, but cancel at any step. Can't get very far without logging in, which I think requires an internet connection.

 

[DDW]

Soooooo, if I plan on entering Canada by boat maybe 2-4 times a year what is better? CBP roam, or Nexus? Disregard which one is easier to obtain. My preference is to be able to clear by phone-Wife and myself. Also, how often do you renew? I know you have to have the interview with Nexus, hopefully this isn’t every year. Thanks.

I've never done Nexus because of the difficulty in scheduling the interview. If t allowed checking into Canada without going to a point of entry, that would be a modest plus. But Canada has a lot of points of entry, so not that big a deal.

 

[Mac2]

I've never done Nexus because of the difficulty in scheduling the interview. If t allowed checking into Canada without going to a point of entry, that would be a modest plus. But Canada has a lot of points of entry, so not that big a deal.

My worry is the docks. At 90T I don’t trust cleats for a spring line maneuver. I need easy in/out. Can you comment on the different docks?

 

[DDW]

Well, I have a long running thread on the Sailing Anarchy (108 pages now) ranting against the Canadian practice of bull rails rather than cleats. But that aside, there do seem to be some docks easier to get into than others. Others may have seen more of a variety than me and might chime in. We usually head over to Sidney from Anacortes when starting out to shop at the excellent Thrifty market there to provision. The closest point of entry to town is the Port of Sidney marina, however the customs dock is somewhat small and maneuvering space somewhat tight. Around the corner at Van Isle marina it is easier, but a bit further from Thrifty. I believe Bedwell is a point of entry and I've been there but don't remember the details. Victoria is big and easy. Coming south Prince Rupert is really the only choice, you can check in at either the PR Yacht Club or the Cow Bay marina. They are about equal in ease, your size boat you will probably be on the outside which is easy but a little wakey.

 

[Airstream345]

We usually check in at Bedwell Harbour on South Pender Island. It’s directly across from Prevost Harbor on the San Juan Islands side, which makes it an easy run from Friday Harbor, Roche, and the surrounding area. The long linear docks make for simple, stress-free docking—easy in, easy out—and the phones are right at the top of the ramp.

Sidney, by contrast, has the tightest entry nearby. You’ve got a 180° turn inside the breakwater, and the lack of visibility means you can get all the way in there only to discover someone already tied up. That leaves you hovering in a narrow entrance—not ideal. Van Isle is much easier: another long, straightforward linear dock. Just be aware that summer boat traffic at all of these locations can be heavy, so a “head on a swivel” approach is essential.

Heading north, there’s only one place to check in: Prince Rupert. We typically use the Prince Rupert Rowing and Yachting Club, as they’re phenomenal at helping you land safely—often in strong current. The other marinas work too, though. In Prince Rupert, the routine is simple: land, tie up, and call.

We’ve also checked in at Vancouver, but that experience was… chaotic. Bananas, really.

 

[SteveK]

Port of Sidney customs dock is there to accommodate those that will moor overnight. Van Isle is at the fuel dock. Bedwell has good restaurants at the top of custom dock. Don't forget to stop at Port of Ganges. There is/was a short stop dock with Thrifty a block away, with shopping and restaurants. Mill Bay is another dock that has shopping center, a Thrifty? up the road two blocks.

 

[Airstream345]

Well, I have a long running thread on the Sailing Anarchy (108 pages now) ranting against the Canadian practice of bull rails rather than cleats.

Ha, over the years, we've grown to prefer bull rails. We've also mastered the "Douglass Hitch" which makes making fast so much faster and more flexible on rails.

We recently docked where they only had cleats, and we had to remember how to tie up!