Leaking stainless steel lift muffler.

[ancora]

Got a leaking stainless steel lift muffler. Used JB Weld on it, but after a time,* white powder showed up under the JB Weld.* Is there something better than JB Weld?

 

[Codger2]

If there is, I'd sure like to see it.

 

[RickB]

It's time to replace it. Corrosion underneath the layer of oil and soot inside is rotting it out from within and there is nothing you can do to stop it or repair it. It is junk.

Replace it with a fiberglass version.

 

[JohnP]

I agree with Rick, it is on its way out.* Time to replace it.** I had one blow out on a 40' MT motorsailer,* made a mess of a pretty clean engine space.* JohnP

-- Edited by JohnP on Tuesday 18th of January 2011 09:43:15 PM

 

[Larry M]

Buy a new one. If your exhuast hose is 4", a fiberglass muffler is around $250.00.

 

[ancora]

I am looking at a Vernalift fiberglass muffler that should do the job. I am also looking to replace a leaking stainless steel elbow that carries the exhaust through a bulkhead. Vernatube makes a fiberglass elbow that should work but I want to take a look at it to see if it will take the strain.

 

[RickB]

ancora wrote:Vernatube makes a fiberglass elbow that should work but I want to take a look at it to see if it will take the strain.

That is good stuff*and it*is mechanically strong but there really shouldn't be any great strain on the connections. Make sure your flexible runs are long enough and installed so that they don't impose any load on the fittings. Vernatube makes 45* fittings as well so you don't have to bend the flexible exhaust tubing so much. Also, look at high temp flex couplings, they come in single or multiple "hump" styles to accomodate various angles and to isolate vibration.

Make sure you use the proper clamps so you don't crush the fiberglass tube and don't use silicone or other half assed sealants between the parts.

*


-- Edited by RickB on Wednesday 19th of January 2011 11:15:53 AM

 

[Arctic Traveller]

RickB wrote:

*

Make sure you use the proper clamps so you don't crush the fiberglass tube and don't use silicone or other half assed sealants between the parts.

When we got our boat, a very reputable yard had just replaced all the hoses in the engine room.* The exhaust hoses all had some type of sealant used, and in the last six years, there has never been so much as a drip.* So Rick, do you recommend not using any sealant at all and if so, why?* Or do you just recomend a particular type?................Arctic Traveller

*

 

[RickB]

Arctic Traveller wrote:So Rick, do you recommend not using any sealant at all and if so, why?* Or do you just recomend a particular type?................Arctic Traveller

My recommendation is to use a water soluble lubricant (soapy water)*to slide the tubing on. Silicone always fails, it separates the tube from the fitting and when it fails it*opens a leakage path.

The proper clamp on an on-spec tube on an on-spec fitting doesn't need any magic sauce.

As a general rule I am opposed to the use of mechanic-in-a-can replacements for craftsmanship.



*

 

[sunchaser]

On my Vernalifts there is no goop for sealing to the hoses, just clamps, two of them!!
I do get some salt water weeping through the mat, and use JB weld to seal it up.

Last month my sea trial guy ( It is done monthly if I'm not on the boat) found a few salt water drips*at the exhaust elbow. The shower and elbow*SS was worn out after 8 years -- . As oft mentioned, the advantage of a a spotless 100% dry bilge and good light, is a few drips will show up. I*had new SS showers and elbows made and installed that same week, I did not want to court disaster.