Lazarette hatches - teak buckling and delaminating from core

[inquisitivej]

As we get closer to drier weather (wishful thinking from a Seattleite) I need to tackle a problem with my lazarette hatches. One of the findings in the survey of this 1994 42 Classic was that the teak boards are starting to buckle and delaminate from the core of the hatch doors. I'm told this is relatively common to find and hoping someone here has tackled this project and can share some pointers. I imagine I will need to remove at least all the buckles teak strips, of not *all* of them, remove the previous adhesive, reattach the teak and fill the spaces between each piece with special caulk or some other substance to make look like the original black caulking (or whatever that is between the teak slats).

I imagine I will need to craft up a clamping rig to properly hold everything in place while the adhesive cures. I was planning to remove the hatches and take them home to repair. I plan to cover the lazarette with plywood for safety and weather reasons.

All of the teak looks to be viable for reuse, so I don't plan/expect to need to source teak. I've not tackled a teak decking project before so pointers on how to carefully disassemble also welcomed (how do you get those screw plugs out? how do you remove the partially attached buckled boards without damaging them or others? ...)

I would greatly appreciate pointers to the best adhesives to use (or avoid), techniques for preparing the surfaces (or things to not do), caulk or other product suggestions between the boards (and those to avoid), and glue/clamp suggestions.

Thanks in advance!

Jon

 

[JackConnick]

I had a guy do this as - well as sand and caulk the rest of the decks on my 1991 GBC, Big job. He removed them and all the teak strips, then rebuilt the core of the hatches and re-glued the teak strips, then caulked, used a cleaner then sanded. You will have to removed a the hatch core and rebuild them before you can re teak,

 

[inquisitivej]

thanks for the reply. Why does the core have to be rebuilt and what does that mean exactly?

If I decide its not a job for me, who did you have do the work for you, looks like you are also in Seattle.

 

[JackConnick]

Its a wooden core that is likely full of water.
I have an independent painter I work with. Not sure what he's up to.

 

[inquisitivej]

I thought the core was fiberglass for some reason. I wonder if they changed that at some point?

Hmmm. I only have 2 or 3 strips on each hatch that are starting to buckle. Wonder what the chances are the core isn’t too bad yet.

Please DM me the painter if you think he’s interested.

 

[JackConnick]

Most of the boat has a wood core. How heavy are the hatches? Did your surveyor or can you check with a moisture meter? Or once you take the strips off you can just dril a couple of holes. My guess is you may find wooden mush.

 

[inquisitivej]

Most of the boat has a wood core. How heavy are the hatches? Did your surveyor or can you check with a moisture meter? Or once you take the strips off you can just dril a couple of holes. My guess is you may find wooden mush.

Don’t recall him taking a moisture reading from that location. He did for other places.

Recommendations for possible service providers welcome. If the core does need to be replaced I don’t think I’m tackling that myself.

 

[inquisitivej]

Any other GB'ers with experience dealing with the lazarette hatches? Love to hear more voices and experiences. Anyone tackled it directly or has everyone hired it out?

 

[inquisitivej]

Any other GB'ers with experience dealing with the lazarette hatches? Love to hear more voices and experiences. Anyone tackled it directly or has everyone hired it out?

Anyone have ideas of other forums where I might more GB folks who have run into this since it seems only 1 here has experience with this?

 

[Diep]

I wish I could help you out. I poked around a little because I feel like I've seen write-ups on deck replacement but I couldn't find a good one. In theory remove teak, remove top layer of glass if the core is compromised, remove the core, replace with core material, glass the top, replace teak.

This is all apparently DIY friendly. I might call around some boat yards. I feel like you have more options if it is the hatch covers as opposed to the rest of the deck. You can remove the hatch and bring it to anyone to do the work. I would be tempted to DIY remove the teak and maybe the core before bringing it in to someone to core, glass and re-apply the teak.

I think this is probably standard boat repair work that a lot of places could do.

 

[Cigatoo]

Any other GB'ers with experience dealing with the lazarette hatches? Love to hear more voices and experiences. Anyone tackled it directly or has everyone hired it out?

Have you tackled the problem yet? I am in the middle of re doing mine.

 

[inquisitivej]

I haven’t. Too many projects and trying to prioritize carefully in this first year of boat ownership. I am currently thinking I will tackle it at the end of the season/winter. The boat dollars are in high demand for too many things.

I would love to hear how it’s going for you. Doing it yourself? Find someone to help you? Please share.

 

[Cigatoo]

I haven’t. Too many projects and trying to prioritize carefully in this first year of boat ownership. I am currently thinking I will tackle it at the end of the season/winter. The boat dollars are in high demand for too many things.

I would love to hear how it’s going for you. Doing it yourself? Find someone to help you? Please share.

Its pretty straight forward. I was able to get the teak off in one piece, dig out all of the rotten core wood, replace with ply wood coated with lots of epoxy, and re glue down the teak with black Sikaflex.

 

[inquisitivej]

Tricks to getting teak off in one piece? How do you deal with the screw hole plugs?

Pictures?

 

[Bmarler]

Tricks to getting teak off in one piece? How do you deal with the screw hole plugs?

Pictures?

I’ve removed them a couple of ways, depending on how they were installed.
Sometimes you can pick them out if they weren’t glued too tightly, using a little tool like this: https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Pi...cphy=1027744&hvtargid=pla-2281435178138&psc=1
If they’re in too tight for that, I drill them out. I like forstner bits. Drill slightly undersize so you can use the right size bung drill before re bedding the teak.

 

[inquisitivej]

Very helpful!

Any tricks getting the teak strips off in one piece? Do they just come off with a putty knife? Is there just adhesive between them and the wooden core?

 

[Bmarler]

An oscillating tool will be your best friend. After you get the screws out, use the tool with a smooth blade and work your way down the plank. Obviously from the outside plank first, and work to the middle. Heating the blade with a heat gun and working slowly.
Make a map of where the planks lay on the hatches before you pull any off so they go back in the same place.
In fact, when you get ready to reassemble, mount the hatches so you can get the perimeter gaps set right. Fasten those first. Then lay it out so can see what the caulking gaps need to be set at for the remainder.

 

[inquisitivej]

An oscillating tool will be your best friend. After you get the screws out, use the tool with a smooth blade and work your way down the plank. Obviously from the outside plank first, and work to the middle. Heating the blade with a heat gun and working slowly.
Make a map of where the planks lay on the hatches before you pull any off so they go back in the same place.
In fact, when you get ready to reassemble, mount the hatches so you can get the perimeter gaps set right. Fasten those first. Then lay it out so can see what the caulking gaps need to be set at for the remainder.

What type of epoxy did you use on top of the plywood?

 

[Bmarler]

In addition, the screws are only needed to hold the teak in place till the poly sulphide adhesive caulk cures.
I’ve known people to remove all the plugs, epoxy fill the screw holes, then put new plugs in. It’s the screw holes and leaking plugs that cause the water intrusion.
And yes, the teak should be fully bedded in the adhesive caulking.
I would do some research to see if there are better materials to use for the adhesive than what was originally used. Then use traditional materials for caulking the seams. There has to be more information out there.

 

[Bmarler]

What type of epoxy did you use on top of the plywood?

I typically use west system. They have a great line of fillers and thickeners.
System three is another one I like as it doesn’t make an amine blush that needs washed off. They also make fantastic epoxy fairing materials.
I don’t know how your hatches are constructed, but I’m thinking they are glass both sides with wood core. Does that sound right?
If that’s the case, use care removing the top layer so it can be glassed back on after you replace the core.
Get yourself a cheap vacuum pump so you can vacuum bag it. That’s the best way to get even clamping pressure and pull out air bubbles.

 

[inquisitivej]

I typically use west system. They have a great line of fillers and thickeners.
System three is another one I like as it doesn’t make an amine blush that needs washed off. They also make fantastic epoxy fairing materials.
I don’t know how your hatches are constructed, but I’m thinking they are glass both sides with wood core. Does that sound right?
If that’s the case, use care removing the top layer so it can be glassed back on after you replace the core.
Get yourself a cheap vacuum pump so you can vacuum bag it. That’s the best way to get even clamping pressure and pull out air bubbles.