I'm designing my inverter installation and want a switch on the electrical panel that will cut off the inverter power. Is it acceptable to attach the inverter output power to a DPST toggle switch? I don't have room for a rotary switch. I can't see any reason that breaking both the positive and neutral shouldn't work and 30 amp on-off DPST toggle switches are inexpensive and readily available. I'm planning on a Victron 3K Multi Pls 2 so I will need 2 of the DPST switches since there are 2 outputs.
Inverter Isolation Switch
- Thread starter TBill36
- Start date
The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
ranger58sb
Guru
- Joined
- Aug 21, 2013
- Messages
- 7,586
- Location
- Annapolis
- Vessel Name
- Ranger
- Vessel Make
- 58' Sedan Bridge
FWIW... our installer added a separate Victron "multi control" -- in addition to the panel breaker for our inverter/charger. Multi control is on a separate "wall" near but not on the main panel.
The panel breaker still controls shorepower/genset supply to the inverter/charger, but the multi control lets me choose charger only, OFF, or inverter/charger. The multi control also lets me set a current limit for shorepower/genset input. Also has some other LEDs to indicate various stages of charge or invert systems status.
-Chris
The panel breaker still controls shorepower/genset supply to the inverter/charger, but the multi control lets me choose charger only, OFF, or inverter/charger. The multi control also lets me set a current limit for shorepower/genset input. Also has some other LEDs to indicate various stages of charge or invert systems status.
-Chris
To add,
If you can separate the inverter loads on the panel to a group that can be isolated from the rest, it’s a cleaner way to do it. I split the panel on my last boat.
On my current boat I actually have two separate ac panels. One for inverter loads, and one for non inverter loads.
If you can separate the inverter loads on the panel to a group that can be isolated from the rest, it’s a cleaner way to do it. I split the panel on my last boat.
On my current boat I actually have two separate ac panels. One for inverter loads, and one for non inverter loads.
twistedtree
Guru
Breakers on both the input and output of inverters I think is a great idea, and significantly simplifies debug and repair. While contemplating this, also consider a bypass function that will not only disconnect and isolate the inverter, but pass shore or generator power straight through to your inverter loads so they can remain powered. There are a variety of ways to do this with full function bypass switches, or just interlocked breakers.
Iggy
Guru
A charger/inverter would make for an easier install too.
I like the fact that no switch is needed. The shore power passes though the inverter to power the inverter's outlets. As soon as shore power is disconnected, the inverter takes over with no interruptions.
I like the fact that no switch is needed. The shore power passes though the inverter to power the inverter's outlets. As soon as shore power is disconnected, the inverter takes over with no interruptions.
SteveK
Guru
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2019
- Messages
- 6,628
- Location
- Gulf Islands, BC Canada
- Vessel Name
- Sea Sanctuary
- Vessel Make
- Bayliner 4588
That is how mine are done DPST to inverter.
ksanders
Moderator Emeritus
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2011
- Messages
- 6,625
- Location
- Mexico - USA
- Vessel Name
- DOS PECES
- Vessel Make
- BAYLINER 4788
This is the method I would prefer.
The bypass function is especially important on boats where a lot of semi critical loads are powered using the inverter.
Last edited:
Bud
Scraping Paint
- Joined
- Aug 11, 2017
- Messages
- 565
- Location
- United States
- Vessel Name
- Izzy Rose
- Vessel Make
- Grand Banks 49
I 100% agree with isolation of inverter/charger both input, output and bypass around inverter.
Bud
Bud
Glad to hear others are using the toggle switch. I don't like to rely on automatic devices such as the multi control mentioned. I'm sure they work fine 99% of the time, but I had a friend whose inverter went down and couldn't power anything with gen or shore power. No AC to anything until he got it replaced.
The hard part for me is isolating the neutrals that I mentioned in an earlier thread. My present set up has 18 breakers for relatively low current items. 9 are powered from one leg of the 240 and the other 9 are powered by the other. Those same busses are tied to the 240 items so it's difficult to isolate. I'm happy to manually turn on the inverter when I want it and make sure high load items are turned off.
The hard part for me is isolating the neutrals that I mentioned in an earlier thread. My present set up has 18 breakers for relatively low current items. 9 are powered from one leg of the 240 and the other 9 are powered by the other. Those same busses are tied to the 240 items so it's difficult to isolate. I'm happy to manually turn on the inverter when I want it and make sure high load items are turned off.
You should have a DC disconnect on the inverter power supply anyway, so why not just use this with a remote, Blue Sea MLRBS. The only way to ensure, with no doubt what so ever, an inverter cannot produce lethal voltage is to cut off the DC power supply.
Similar threads
