How to splice thin wires

[paulga]

Here I have a 4 pin aviation video cable that I need to join. Each of the 4 wires is super thin. Each wire has 12 strands, each strand has a diameter of 0.0025in, giving a total cross sectional area of 5.89E-5 in2. according to the wire gauge calculator, each of the 4 wires is 31awg.

I thought about soldering, but where to get heat shrink tubings of this size is a question.

I also considered those white 26-24g crimp connectors that I have. Folding 31g twice will have 25g, this is within the range. I just need to get a crimp tool to cover this range.

Any alternative methods?

The reason I had to cut the wire is, the end plug always get stuck with other cables when I tried to pull it through the arc.

 

[tiltrider1]

Here - https://www.amazon.com/XVIEONR-UY2-...2133&sprefix=cat+6+splice,aps,195&sr=8-6&th=1

 

[paulga]

Here - https://www.amazon.com/XVIEONR-UY2-K2-Connectors-Gel-Filled/dp/B09PHBX478/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2VMY3PXROIQDX&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.TZuq_hJ7FyG3ErvfcgpKaQuqrFkfLoOF66hCDN5ifknJY8I42BVjC0oec_ZBjCP-i1rPIQGsJ_hpySXWdm2iT5msETK4U8nZ29voVeIyH_1wFOyfQj5zKuSWKAK0hi2UagJBuQN_iwGPMDnvkUXp1istzmOqe_XodSrauvVu3HqPmVZZHhw93HNSqcYevIk76wE5VDJkeZqmIUlGJXF96vpcqRoAO_cMu2fHPWWS8t8.8grSStKTiD7n7Le6VAWJSB7UzvFWFQIr3LSk7y6MOa8&dib_tag=se&keywords=cat+6+splice+connectors&qid=1742102133&sprefix=cat+6+splice,aps,195&sr=8-6&th=1

Thanks.
But it requires to not strip the insulation, and only accommodates 14 to 29g. The wire that I have to join is 31g at most.

I found 1.5mm heat shrink tubings on Amazon, will try the soldering approach if there are no other ways.

 

[tiltrider1]

Well, if I was you, I would spend the $6 and give it a try. It's worked for me and I've spliced plenty of signal wire over the last 40 years.

 

[psneeld]

An alternative might be tiny perf board. Solder connections, cover with hot glue or caulk place in some kind of container or junction box if necessary.

https://www.amazon.com/SchmalzTech-Electronic-Circuit-Prototype-ST-PERF-1-1/dp/B09QMNV6J1/ref=sr_1_9?crid=D6T28DTA6IIO&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.9S7JmMiwVfF3q98VisPk24ahmx3Ocem37SUkBDw3eWffNhw4PJBlIpibyjm9wbRFiVxt3RWitfsZxG4Yr3MfZAcrxRxkRcngSZ7Y5EN7q6dcPvnSgqxCPW47hSy6KukH2lVVft2uJWXol4VUNV1I4cdIDzH5zo1lx0CkidMVmJtPmd1LWLCqRQszmvO4OqtPgmNo0-n8V78EnhFpwiOzFUuYEzWLCBxjZ1nMSx-bO3Y.WHravKP7-RmryBY_5Yi_rQQp8CtLLn8PDem7mlLofh8&dib_tag=se&keywords=tiny%2Bperf%2Bboard&qid=1742120675&sprefix=tiny%2Bperf%2Bb%2Caps%2C117&sr=8-9&th=1

 

[Mambo42]

Here - https://www.amazon.com/XVIEONR-UY2-K2-Connectors-Gel-Filled/dp/B09PHBX478/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2VMY3PXROIQDX&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.TZuq_hJ7FyG3ErvfcgpKaQuqrFkfLoOF66hCDN5ifknJY8I42BVjC0oec_ZBjCP-i1rPIQGsJ_hpySXWdm2iT5msETK4U8nZ29voVeIyH_1wFOyfQj5zKuSWKAK0hi2UagJBuQN_iwGPMDnvkUXp1istzmOqe_XodSrauvVu3HqPmVZZHhw93HNSqcYevIk76wE5VDJkeZqmIUlGJXF96vpcqRoAO_cMu2fHPWWS8t8.8grSStKTiD7n7Le6VAWJSB7UzvFWFQIr3LSk7y6MOa8&dib_tag=se&keywords=cat+6+splice+connectors&qid=1742102133&sprefix=cat+6+splice,aps,195&sr=8-6&th=1

These are indeed working perfect. I had to cut a Raymarine data cable, as well as a normal data cable, last year, put them back together with these connectors, they work absolutely great. Best buy ever. Now I dare to cut any cable which is necessary to cut, something which I did not even think about before.

 

[Greg QS]

You can get field attachable nmea2000 cable ends. Aviation cable is used for nmea 20000

Maretron NMEA 2000 Micro Field Connector - Male-CONN-N2K-MM

 

[paulga]

Well, if I was you, I would spend the $6 and give it a try. It's worked for me and I've spliced plenty of signal wire over the last 40 years.

Seems it works like a push through tap connector. I will try this first.
It only splices one wire. Is there a similar connector that can splice 4 wires?

 

[Bmarler]

You could also land them in a small terminal strip.

 

[paulga]

You could also land them in a small terminal strip.

this terminal block covers to 28awg. does it work?

https://www.amazon.com/Cermant-5-08mm-Pluggable-Terminal-Connector/dp/B0DGTD162M

 

[psneeld]

Splicing 4 separate wires doesn't work in a terminal strip that connects all the terminations.

You need a connector, where there are 2 entrances and 2 screws per connection.

You can cut them into 4 wire pieces.

 

[paulga]

Splicing 4 separate wires doesn't work in a terminal strip that connects all the terminations.

You need a connector, where there are 2 entrances and 2 screws per connection.

View attachment 163073
You can cut them into 4 wire pieces.

Thanks.
I have some of these strips that accept down to 22g, still too large for the tiny wires.
I haven't found a mini size model of this type.

 

[tiltrider1]

All these alternatives require stripping a 31g wire. Good luck with that. The option I offered does not require the stripping of the wire. It also encapsulates the ends in dielectric grease to prevent corrosion.

 

[paulga]

All these alternatives require stripping a 31g wire. Good luck with that. The option I offered does not require the stripping of the wire. It also encapsulates the ends in dielectric grease to prevent corrosion.

Thanks I'll try it.
does this type of JAE plug and socket work?
the specs are it accommodates 26-30g wires, with the correct connectors, mating plug and crimp tool.

 

[Bmarler]

Don’t you have some of the little crimp ferrules and crimper?you can strip and crimp a ferrule on, then use the barrier strip that you already have. Alternatively, you can strip, fold in two, and tin the ends. There’s always a way.
I haven’t used the little phone company style crimps, but if tiltrider says they are good, it may be worth a try. Just ohm them when done to see the quality of the crimp.
Like tiltrider says, it’s tough to strip little wire, but I’ve had good luck with a couple of my strippers designed for small sizes. Shielded wire is usually tinned, and that helps too.

 

[Bmarler]

Thanks I'll try it.
does this type of JAE plug and socket work?
the specs are it accommodates 26-30g wires, with the correct connectors, mating plug and crimp tool.

View attachment 163147

I wouldn’t

 

[paulga]

Don’t you have some of the little crimp ferrules and crimper?you can strip and crimp a ferrule on, then use the barrier strip that you already have. Alternatively, you can strip, fold in two, and tin the ends. There’s always a way.
I haven’t used the little phone company style crimps, but if tiltrider says they are good, it may be worth a try. Just ohm them when done to see the quality of the crimp.
Like tiltrider says, it’s tough to strip little wire, but I’ve had good luck with a couple of my strippers designed for small sizes. Shielded wire is usually tinned, and that helps too.

The smallest ferrule in that set is still too large. I have to fold the wire 4 times to match.

Why is the jae connectors not good? It organizes the wires in one direction.

 

[folivier]

These might work, mostly used by alarm system installers.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JP3GB6?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_9

 

[Marco Flamingo]

I have used Posi Lock connectors on tiny wires even though they state that they are for larger guage. Reason being that some connections (like VHF to AIS) might have different color wires. Easy to hook temporarily and, once things are sorted out, make final connections. Or leave as permanent.

 

[lwarden]

I would just strip and solder, cover with small ID heat shrink on each line. Then use a sleeve of adhesive lined over the whole thing to eliminate stress on the individual wires.

 

[Bmarler]

The smallest ferrule in that set is still too large. I have to fold the wire 4 times to match.

Why is the jae connectors not good? It organizes the wires in one direction.

I didn’t say they weren’t good, I have no experience with them. I just said I wouldn’t use them. Seems like too much trouble. Buy the crimper, pins, plugs and sockets for one splice. Then if it needs to come apart again, you need the pin removal tool and new pins to crimp on.
I like to use what I already own when possible. You already have the little barrier strip, just strip, fold and tin(solder) the ends, insert into the barrier strip.
Too bad you don’t have the tiny ferrules, I have literally hundreds of them for tiny wire.

 

[paulga]

I would just strip and solder, cover with small ID heat shrink on each line. Then use a sleeve of adhesive lined over the whole thing to eliminate stress on the individual wires.

Is a sleeve of adhesive a larger heat shrink or some tape?

 

[lwarden]

Adhesive lined shrink tube. BTW, the "marine" heat shrink at Harbor Freight is pretty good stuff and comes in several sizes in an inexpensive package. For the smaller diameter, just use non-adhesive lined since it comes in smaller sizes.

 

[paulga]

Well, if I was you, I would spend the $6 and give it a try. It's worked for me and I've spliced plenty of signal wire over the last 40 years.

I tried the two methods, both worked. It took me a couple of hours to solder 4 wires on a rolling boat. Using the button connectors simplified it greatly.

 

[lwarden]

Good job Paulga, you'll get faster at soldering.... The main advantage of soldering and heat shrink is how much more robust the connection is and easier it is to pull through a raceway or conduit. Honestly, I don't want to offend anyone but those sorts of button connectors don't belong on in a marine environment. To me they are just a step above a wire nut.

 

[tiltrider1]

Good job Paulga, you'll get faster at soldering.... The main advantage of soldering and heat shrink is how much more robust the connection is and easier it is to pull through a raceway or conduit. Honestly, I don't want to offend anyone but those sorts of button connectors don't belong on in a marine environment. To me they are just a step above a wire nut.

You should do some research. The button connections are less likely to fail than a soldered connection. The connection has higher tensile strength than the wire and greater corrosion resistance than heat shrinking.

 

[Bmarler]

I wonder what a surveyor might say about those button connectors. Sometimes people who aren’t familiar with something will note a non standard connection and cause a stir.

 

[lwarden]

You should do some research. The button connections are less likely to fail than a soldered connection. The connection has higher tensile strength than the wire and greater corrosion resistance than heat shrinking.

Always happy to learn something new. If there are some links to marine use of these connectors and ABYC acknowledgement of them then please share them.

My opinion (FWIW) is from nearly 40 years of developing life science and life support equipment. During my career I've been involved in specifying and designing literally thousands of cables. Although we would never engineer a production product with a spliced cable, I have a pretty good handle on the requirements for cable design.

I don't know what these cables which the OP is splicing are going into, but since they were shielded and twisted I presume they are sending data, likely across a differential pair. The manufacture designed and tested the system with this specific cable and shield. If the cable is transmitting high-speed data it's likely across a twisted pair. When high-speed cables are designed, any loop between the two wires in the pair is minimized to keep stray signal injection to a minimum. Systems are tested for immunity by exposing the system to RF and electromagnetic fields to insure the signal integrity of the cables and connections can withstand external noise without affecting system performance. Large unshielded loops allow for noise to be introduced to the signal and certain cases this noise can inhibit the receiving of data. Think of the wire splice running next to an alternator with a large changing magnetic flux. A large loop would pick up the flux from the alternator and it would be superimposed on the signal and in extreme cases would prevent data transmission. Shield integrity and ground termination are also important aspects to the cable and the overall system ground scheme.

When you cut and splice a cable I feel you should keep it as close to the original design as possible. This means keeping any loops as small as possible. Also, if the cable is for a really critical system like a radar which might be affected by injected noise I would recommends using copper foil with conductive adhesive to cover the spliced to connect the two foil shields, ensuring the shield retains continuity and its integrity as well.

So, an electrical conductivity across two wires is only one aspect to the requirements of a cable, especially for those that carry high-speed data.

 

[paulga]

I wonder what a surveyor might say about those button connectors. Sometimes people who aren’t familiar with something will note a non standard connection and cause a stir.

the wires will be tucked within the arch. a surveyor generally will not open those access hatch cover plates.

 

[paulga]

Always happy to learn something new. If there are some links to marine use of these connectors and ABYC acknowledgement of them then please share them.

My opinion (FWIW) is from nearly 40 years of developing life science and life support equipment. During my career I've been involved in specifying and designing literally thousands of cables. Although we would never engineer a production product with a spliced cable, I have a pretty good handle on the requirements for cable design.

I don't know what these cables which the OP is splicing are going into, but since they were shielded and twisted I presume they are sending data, likely across a differential pair. The manufacture designed and tested the system with this specific cable and shield. If the cable is transmitting high-speed data it's likely across a twisted pair. When high-speed cables are designed, any loop between the two wires in the pair is minimized to keep stray signal injection to a minimum. Systems are tested for immunity by exposing the system to RF and electromagnetic fields to insure the signal integrity of the cables and connections can withstand external noise without affecting system performance. Large unshielded loops allow for noise to be introduced to the signal and certain cases this noise can inhibit the receiving of data. Think of the wire splice running next to an alternator with a large changing magnetic flux. A large loop would pick up the flux from the alternator and it would be superimposed on the signal and in extreme cases would prevent data transmission. Shield integrity and ground termination are also important aspects to the cable and the overall system ground scheme.

When you cut and splice a cable I feel you should keep it as close to the original design as possible. This means keeping any loops as small as possible. Also, if the cable is for a really critical system like a radar which might be affected by injected noise I would recommends using copper foil with conductive adhesive to cover the spliced to connect the two foil shields, ensuring the shield retains continuity and its integrity as well.

So, an electrical conductivity across two wires is only one aspect to the requirements of a cable, especially for those that carry high-speed data.

these wires transmit video and signals between backup cameras and a monitor, pls see this post
I intended to see if both ways work. it's great to know they do. it was difficult to keep the tip of the soldering gun steady against the tiny wires because the boat was rolling nonstop. using the button connectors, I was able to mount everything efficiently, tie the cables, fill the hole and give the sealant one day to cure before the rain.