how to remove rudder packing glands

[albinalaska]

good morning ,

looking for some insight on how to remove some packing glands on our lazarette in our trawler to inspect/clean them. is there some type of tactic or tool that others have found to serve them well in the past?

these are of questionable age, i’ve looked at PSS seals and other options but in the mean time would like to just clean/service these and move on.

mainly i’m concerned that in trying to pry them up from only one side at a time will cause damage.

thank you for any assistance!

 

[CharlieO.]

You’re going to take those nuts off and remove the collar first. Then pull the packing out and replace with new.

 

[Comodave]

I would not use a PSS in this application, not needed for a rudder. I would just repack it.

 

[Ken E.]

I would also repack what you have rather than change to PSS, providing you have reasonable access to tighten the packing nut in the future as needed.

I converted my boat to PSS rudder seals due to almost impossible access to the tightening nut on both sides. I ended up making a tool that would fit between the stringers but for my 70 year-old body, it was hard being a contortionist. The PSS seals have worked fine for several years now.

 

[albinalaska]

really appreciate all the responses! is if i sight down into the fitting it looks like vertical bands maybe a 1/4” wide lining the parameter of the opening. but i’ve not had experience with removing these before so is this just a pry and pray? or are there any pointers for removing the gland to get access to inspect the packing.

 

[Bmarler]

The rudder is already out, so the packing will easily come out. Just pull the gland and use a pick tool to grab them.
FYI, you can do them in situ as well. Easier if you get a packing removal tool. It’s got a flex shaft and little corkscrew end.
You can either measure the shaft and fitting to find the right size to put back in, or measure the packing itself. Just keep in mind the old packing will be deformed from use.
I like to cut my packing with 45 degree ends, like a scarf joint, then stagger the seams in the fitting.
Easy stuff to do,

 

[Searunner37]

good morning ,

looking for some insight on how to remove some packing glands on our lazarette in our trawler to inspect/clean them. is there some type of tactic or tool that others have found to serve them well in the past?

these are of questionable age, i’ve looked at PSS seals and other options but in the mean time would like to just clean/service these and move on.

mainly i’m concerned that in trying to pry them up from only one side at a time will cause damage.

thank you for any assistance!

This is what you need. Amazon.com

 

[albinalaska]

UPDATE:

So, this proved to be much easier than I expected! nonetheless I appreciate the responses. here’s a follow up in case anyone else is doing this for the first time.

I was able to remove the gland follower after unscrewing the 2 bolts. The first one took much longer because I didn’t want to destroy anything but it's pretty shallow learning curve and the second one I got out in just a few minutes.

I seemed to have made a cross-post about this, but I'll also include the photos here in case anyone else is going through this particular type of work in case it helps.

 

[‘75 Tolly]

really appreciate all the responses! is if i sight down into the fitting it looks like vertical bands maybe a 1/4” wide lining the parameter of the opening. but i’ve not had experience with removing these before so is this just a pry and pray? or are there any pointers for removing the gland to get access to inspect the packing.

I used Duramax packing for the rudder on our 1975 Tolly 26’

This was on the much appreciated advice of this forum!

 

[albinalaska]

have you ever had to remove them?

 

[‘75 Tolly]

have you ever had to remove them?

I pulled the packing out with a pick…I have a couple of dental picks in my tool kit and they work good for this type of work.

 

[albinalaska]

what about the bearings? i see a lot of tools for getting them out of struts but not anything like trying to get them out of the rudder blocks

 

[‘75 Tolly]

I had to carefully cut the old cutlass bearings out with a hacksaw blade….I replaced with these Johnson bearings

 

[‘75 Tolly]

what about the bearings? i see a lot of tools for getting them out of struts but not anything like trying to get them out of the rudder blocks

Not sure about bearings…our rudder is only sealed with packing. Maybe other will have more knowledge.

 

[albinalaska]

As i’m measuring the old packing…. is it:

A.) 1/8”
B.) 3/16”
C.) 1/4”
D.) 5/16”

these are the options that seem to be available online from defender marine.

thanks for the input!

 

[C lectric]

3/8". The scale shows you there are three lines untill they go beyond the packing, , 0.125 , 0.250, then 0.375.
Each of those markings tell you to add 1/8". So 3/8" packing.

 

[Comodave]

Yes, looked like 3/8” to me too.

 

[more]

As i’m measuring the old packing…. is it:

A.) 1/8”
B.) 3/16”
C.) 1/4”
D.) 5/16”

these are the options that seem to be available online from defender marine.

thanks for the input!

View attachment 160218

View attachment 160220

o my good,what this number meen,how you American build anything. your measurement is around. do you know what meen MBC to American industry.. i just order temperature pressure for my chiler on end I search smalest this 1/35-658/59845 and later I order couple adapter from smaller to bigger I must work

 

[albinalaska]

i do use metric a lot because it does feel like i’m able to get closer measurements but this is the packing that i’ve found available from the website- no 3/8” option unfortunately. but im sure i can look around at other dealers

 

[Mac2]

It looks like 5-6 wraps correct? I was told that 3-4 is standard. I suppose more is better, just curious if it is normal to do as many as possible?

 

[albinalaska]

i’m not aware of what the minimums are but thanks for bringing that up. with six wraps filled the available area which i assumed is just why they went with that amount. on the starboard side that only had five wraps there was dried salt water residue observed inside the lazarette where the rudder shaft met with the mounting plate. this rudder also took some mechanical intervention to drop whereas the port side with six wraps came out perfectly fine by itself and showed no residue.

i was able to find 3/8” packing from west marine. thanks for the advice one and all!

 

[Datenight]

what about the bearings? i see a lot of tools for getting them out of struts but not anything like trying to get them out of the rudder blocks

Looks like you may be able to drive them out with a long drift.

I made a puller from a diesel liner puller from Vevor and a blind bearing puller from Harbor Freight. Can post photos if interested.
Rob

 

[albinalaska]

i am interested thank you!

there appears to be a light colored ring around the bottom. it looks like a fiberglass retainer of some kind. so i have a suspicion that up is the only way out. i have a steady hand so a sawzall like someone else mentioned is something im open to- but, as i treat every success like an isolated incident; it’s not my favorite… and i need the OD for replacement.

as always so grateful for the input. i say it over and over but im on a small island in alaska and no one else is doing this kind of work so this community is so appreciated!! thank you!

 

[albinalaska]

so an update to this project. after a very time consuming retrieval, i was able to get the bearing out of the starboard side with a sawzall and an 8” metal blade. as slow and methodical as i considered myself to be, it turns out i nicked the chamber wall with the blade. i’ve only ever done prop bearings so i didn’t account for the retainer being bronze as well at the bottom, or that i was cutting into it. soooo- what happens now? not sure how to source this part for an almost 50 year old boat. or what it’s even called. is it toast? should i just scuttle the boat in the bay? thanks for any advice.

 

[albinalaska]

i should add that the cut through the retainer ring doesn’t seem to hinder the ability for the bearing to be retained (given that it’s not under what i imagine is a tremendous downward pressure) and the knick to the chamber wall is also under the packing which i’ve been told is what does the heavy lifting for keeping the water outside of the boat.

 

[Comodave]

Well you can always remove the entire log and start new.

 

[Bmarler]

It’s unfortunate that you cut the shoulder, but not the end of the world. As mentioned, all it does is keep the cutless from dropping out the bottom.
Take the time to measure the length of the cutless and depth of the log so when you drive it in you know where it should stop. That’ll keep you from pounding on it after it’s seated.
Making a puller/driver is preferred as there’s more control.

 

[SteveK]

I can see replacing the packing, but have to ask why are you replacing the bearing?

 

[albinalaska]

it seemed prudent given the nature that i had already gone so far as to remove everything else to service and replace for this refit. there is no maintenance log to indicate when or if this has ever been done in 50 years. you ask a valid question! i understand they have a shelf life much longer than prop bearings and certainly in hind sight i almost wish i hadn’t. but here we are.

 

[C lectric]

Where are you now?