how to break-in a new engine

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I would love to have this dilemma!!
 
Read and follow the break*in suggestions in the owners manual.

I always read this section even though ever boat I ever had was pre-owned!

Nice to dream.*

JohnP.

P.S. I did break in a couple of new outboards.
 
I was fortunate enough to have to break in a new engine when I did a repower.
I*generally followed the Cummins procedure.
The interesting point was, I had just gotten it to fire up,*and the engine was running "maybe" 15 minutes when the Cummins rep happened to stop by my boat to see how I was doing.
He said "let's see how she's built" and*he burried the fuel lever to see what the no load rpm was. LOL We calibrated the tach during the process.
Had the Cummins tech inspection and sea trial the next week and everything was a go from there which was generally light to moderate loading and varying the rpm for the forst few trips IIRC.
Oil change at 25 hours then regular maintenance.
 
Yes** ...I agree w Jay but let me put it a little different way

Very short periods of heavy and full throttle w extremely varied periods of medium to light throttle. Anticipate gaining about 100rpm or a bit more when engine is broken in. Check belts and hoses often.
 
Even with automated machining and parts selection , parts have to wear in.

HEAT is generated by this process , so the short periods of WOT are good , and should be extended in duration as the engine wears in.

With 18 wheel sized diesels this is 50,000 miles and will frequently give 1/2 a mile per gal improved fuel burn.

For the modern engines a good question is weather they should be run in on std oil or started on synthetic.

I prefer the switch , as the first change is to remove builders debris .
 
I once did a repower using Cat C-18s, set at about 700HP ea.* Our cat rep for the install came along for the initial sea trial, and when I asked how he wanted me to run the engines, he said "run em hard"* After an initial 15 minute breakin period, he had me open them up to about 3/4 throttle and leave them there for about another 15 minutes.* We did this a couple times, ran them wide open a bit and he then said to run them normally.* We did just that, and then ran about 1200 miles two weeks later at normal cruising speeds.* As far as I know, the engines are still running fine and don't burn oil...................Arctic Traveller
 
My company just sent me to do sea trial on a New Build tug that has just been launched. Twin screw 10,500 HP, controllable pitch propellors, Independent steering rudders. One of the sea trial specs was a "crash stop" manuever, from full ahead to full astern- very scary! The CP system makes it very smooth, the blades "feather" from the fwd propulsion position to the reverse position. Engine maintains constant 600 RPMsand boat goes from 14.3 KTS ahead to sternway in a couple of boat lengths. Another test was the "heat test", 4 hours of full speed ahead. This builder trial was conducted on Lake Erie last week. We had to dodge 18 inch ice chunks during most of it. The builder wanted to break ice- so we did! Talk about stress!Taking a 20 plus million dollar new boat and break ice for a few hours.
I have never been on a CP vessel before- never mind individual controlled rudders! All in all it was a lot of fun!
One high tech machine, 135foot Articulated tug and barge. The barge is still being built, it will be ready next fall.


-- Edited by Sailor of Fortune on Sunday 27th of March 2011 05:39:58 PM
 

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I intend to break-in the Coot's engine according to John Deere instructions.
 
I have never been on a CP vessel before-

Shame as for an ocean cruiser there is little better for efficiency.

But the projected fuel savings need to pay for the $7,000+ inital cost , hard to justify on a 100 hour a year yacht.
 
Sailor of Fortune wrote:
My company just sent me to do sea trial on a New Build tug that has just been launched. Twin screw 10,500 HP, controllable pitch propellors, Independent steering rudders.

Does that mean you could turn each rudder the oposite way? Very interesting, how do you actually use them?

*

One of the sea trial specs was a "crash stop" manuever, from full ahead to full astern- very scary!

I always wanted to try that one, but on someone else's boat.* ............Arctic Traveller

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Carl
Good to see you back.I'm sorry I didn't get to see you and Dini also. Hopefully you had a great time.
This tug is equipped with a gear box -Neutral and clutched in only (no reverse). After the engines are warmed up, the gearbox is clutched in. All the the time the engines run, the props/shaft spin. Ahead and reverse are controlled by prop blades orientation and amount of pitch. The crash stop manuever requires the blades to go from full pitch ahead to full pitch reverse. This requires several seconds for the computer to move the blades. The sensation in the wheelhouse is vibration and decelleration, followed by sternway. The engine room didn't feel a thing. They called the bridge to ask when we would do this manuever. We told them that it was just executed. They only felt a small attitude change, typical of slowing down.
The tug will only have one barge to move, it is a 750' self unloader that is being built at the same shipyard (Donjon shipbuilding, Erie Pa.). The tug/barge will work in the great lakes carrying bulk product typical for the region. The combo is connected via "pins" (hence Articulated tug and barge).

Jeff
You read correctly, Rudders are controlled together or independent of each other. For these trials, they were steered together. I have not been instructed on the techniques of maneuvering using them seperately. Incidently, there are 4 rudders- 2 each side. Simulator training and working with someone experienced in this setup would be required to run/maneuver this combo!
 
The tug/barge you saw was not an ATB. They would push barge stern first because they handle better that way. The barge Skegs dig in and help keep the unit from sliding. Usually westbound they will have the barge on the tugs portside. This is easier coming around Hellsgate to muscle the barge away from Bronx river/Gracie Mansion. However, you will see barges on their* stbdside if the berth they are going to requires it.
The tug won't go into service until the barge is completed next fall.The barge is about 1/3 completed at this time.
The ATB's ONLY push in the notch, they have no towing winch-only a capstan. When their barge is empty, they ballast so are running with a load at all times (ballast or cargo). The design speed is in the 13kt range pushing the loaded barge. These tugs are very different than tractors, the highly maneuverable harbor tugs used for ship docking.
I don't know why the unit you saw was to the north of the channel.


-- Edited by Sailor of Fortune on Tuesday 29th of March 2011 08:04:10 AM
 
jack,
I would definately be talking to your engineers if they didn't notice any changes in pitch or engine load whilst the manouevers
were taking place.
What were they doing , up in the mess having a cup of coffee!!!

Sounds like a good new vessel and a good unit to operate.

Benn
 
Benn
The engineers knew a maneuver was taking place. They expected a much more violent reaction. The wheelhouse shook because it is so high in the air. The engine company (MTU) , the CP company (Karl Senner), and the Gear box company(Lufkin) were in the Main control room along with ships and shipyard engineers. The complete change of pitch (computer controlled) was seen in the engine room.
I will not be operating this unit. It won't be crewed for several more months.
 
Jack,
Just jokin.
Allways best not to take over a vessel until it has had the bugs shaken out.
I'm over new vessels, did my share.
Nice to have a first drive and then let someone else get her into shape, take over when all is running smooth.

Benn
 
I'm installing a rebuilt Lehman 120 long block in my boat now.

Here are the break in procedures;
Time - MAX RPM
30 min* - idle (no load)
30 min* - 800 RPM
1 hr* - 1000 RPM
1 hr - 1200 RPM
2 hrs - 1400 RPM
4 hrs - 1500 RPM
then after 15 hours:
1. change engine oil
2. Tighten cylinder head retaining bolts
3. adjust valve clearances
4. check heat exchanger pencil zinc
5. adjust belt tension
6. check injection pump oil level
7. check tranny oil
8 check cleanliness of air intake filter
9. check shaft alignment (twice yearly)
10. adjust idling speed if needed.
R.




-- Edited by ralphyost on Wednesday 6th of April 2011 08:16:18 AM


-- Edited by ralphyost on Wednesday 6th of April 2011 08:16:49 AM
 
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