How do you set your anchor?

[MurrayM]

QUESTION: Should I not be setting the anchor without first using snubber to take the stress off the windlass?

Do you have a Sampson post or some other strong tie off point on your bow?

 

[MichaelB1969]

Do you have a Sampson post or some other strong tie off point on your bow?

No. Just have two bow cleats and the windlass.

 

[dhays]

QUESTION: Should I not be setting the anchor without first using snubber to take the stress off the windlass?

Many will set the anchor using the windlass only. I think their rational is that in a typical set, they aren’t putting a lot of pressure on the windlass and the pressure is short lived.

I don’t necessarily agree. I have a snubber that I use to set the anchor (a chain lock would be ideal). After the anchor is set, I then setup a bridle.

I have a cheap chain hook spliced to a 6’ length of three strand nylon. When setting, I just put the hook on the chain and the line is cleated. The windlass is then detensioned and the anchor is set. If it is just a lunch hook in calm conditions, I’ll use all 6’ of the snubber and leave it at that. If overnight or there is wind and/or current, the bridle is put out.

I am sure that I am more cautious than I need to be. OTOH, my windlass is an expensive piece of equipment that I’d like to last a while. So, I try to take care of it.

 

[MurrayM]

No. Just have two bow cleats and the windlass.View attachment 72279

That seems weird to me, but I've only been at this for about five years...others with more experience should be chiming in soon.

Perhaps it's okay for a soft-ish tug while setting the anchor?

 

[Moonfish]

BruceK wins for the use of "abstemious"!!!

 

[AusCan]

BruceK wins for the use of "abstemious"!!!

I had to look that one up. I may try to use it one day.

 

[Peter B]

BruceK wins for the use of "abstemious"!!!

Absolutely. I'm with Nigel Calder as well. Get a decent anchor, then have a cup of tea and let it gently set itself. Then there are no concerns re overloading the windlass, (winch in Oz speak), or fiddling around swapping from short snubbers to long bridles, etc, etc, etc. Remember, it's all meant to be fun people..!

 

[Roger Long]

Veerryyy Sloowlly ...

I get on my reenforced rubber gloves and go out on the bow. Open the box w the rode in it and pull out the chain and wire rope (3’). Then go back and canoiter w Chris at the helm through the window. When we are stopped at the preferred drop spot (established prior by going around the anchorage staring at the GPS and the shore). I go fwd and lower the anchor paying out the rode. Faster if it’s windy .. slower if not. When the anchor hits bottom I pick it up about a foot and give Chris the back down very slowly hand signal. When I see a bit of way on I slowly pay out some rode keeping the anchor on the botton just barely. This way we lay out the rode basically in a straight line w the anchor shank pointing at the boat. Then I pull a small amount of tension and feel the bottom through the rode and have an Idea what it’s like especially if it’s rocky. Very rare in the PNW. After the rode gets close to a 45 degree rake to it I pay out line faster w little or no tension. Signal Chris to cut power w enough way on. Power on and off. I make the line fast to my dedicated anchor cleat when (per the marked rode) there is enough line out for one more scope # than we plan to anchor at. 4-1 to anchor at 3-1 ... typical. Then reverse again in and out of gear a few times (2 or three typ) and let soak at idle for a minute or so then increase to 1400rpm until the line gets real tight. 1000rpm is idle. While doing that I pull hard sideways by hand against the line on deck and feel for telltale vibrations and tightness or a tendency to loosen up. After 5 or ten seconds of that I give Chris the cut power signal and secure all loose gear. Turn on the propane for dinner.

That's almost exactly what I used to do until I got a Mantus. Now, I just let it down to the bottom, let out the proper scope as the boat drifts back, give a quick check with some reverse, and open a beer.

 

[High Wire]

For water depth under 10 ft, turn upwind/into current, stop, drop, reverse easy paying out chain until the 60 ft marker is at the roller. Let the chain come tight. Pay out a little more and attach the Mantus hook and snubber line so that the 60 ft marker is at the waterline. Put in reverse at idle and check for holding. All good, engine off. For 10-20 ft, same drill except 90 ft mark at the waterline. Over 20 ft, move somewhere else. 20 Kg Rocna Vulcan and 105 ft of 5/16 chain.

 

[sunchaser]

That seems weird to me, but I've only been at this for about five years...others with more experience should be chiming in soon.

Perhaps it's okay for a soft-ish tug while setting the anchor?

Your point is valid. A Samson post or similar stout center line tie point is essential. But, look at the commercial guys in your area that have those stout on deck drums, an alternative that I'd guess Beneteau wouldn't consider.

 

[MurrayM]

Your point is valid. A Samson post or similar stout center line tie point is essential. But, look at the commercial guys in your area that have those stout on deck drums, an alternative that I'd guess Beneteau wouldn't consider.

Like a walnut sized wart on a nose

Personally, I don't mind how they look but would keep one a wee bit more presentable on a recreational trawler...I'll take functional over pretty adornment every time

Photo from Shearwater;

 

[FF]

Alone , alone , all alone , apologies to the Ancient Mariner,


I guess I am the only fellow that uses a trip line and float to locate the anchor ,

and a stern anchor run to the bow for reversing tidal locations.

 

[chriscritchett]

I own a Rocna. You drop the anchor with 7:1 scope (all chain), attach the snubber, and turn the engine off. Mother nature takes care of the rest.

Ted

I believe Mother Nature takes care of it whether you drop a fancy name-brand anchor or a cinder block.

 

[ghost]

I've often thought about using a trip line and float as a means of alerting the sailboats that show up after dark that there is an anchor located in front of my bow. They seem to have a hard time with the concept. Often have a 25 foot sailboat inside the length of my 50 foot boat. Fine, play bumper boats, I'm sleeping in. The glass on my Tolly is certainly thicker. I have not done it, as I'd have my anchor pulled up by the crab thieves thinking my anchor float was a crab marker and then I'd find myself adrift on the rocks, ignoring the noise thinking I was just playing bumper boats with a midnight sailboat. Cant win.

 

[AKDoug]

I was always a lot more careful setting my Danforth than I am with my Rocna, and I used a lot more scope. Weeds fouled the Danforth, I have never fouled my other name brand anchor. The name brand anchor sets much better on a rocky bottom as well, I used to feel the Danforth skipping through the rocks and refusing to set.

The new anchors are just plain better! Old technology will get the job done, but the new stuff gets it done easier and with less fussing about. I consider any of the "new age" anchors to be better in general conditions than the old ones, and some types only work well in one bottom type, like the Danforth.

I have never used a trip line because I am anchoring too deep usually, and I anchor several times a day and again for the night. The extra hassle of float and line is more effort than I am willing to put out (since I have never had a problem). I never see anyone up here using a trip line...

 

[Peter B]

Alone , alone , all alone , apologies to the Ancient Mariner,


I guess I am the only fellow that uses a trip line and float to locate the anchor ,

and a stern anchor run to the bow for reversing tidal locations.

I was always a lot more careful setting my Danforth than I am with my Rocna, and I used a lot more scope. Weeds fouled the Danforth, I have never fouled my other name brand anchor. The name brand anchor sets much better on a rocky bottom as well, I used to feel the Danforth skipping through the rocks and refusing to set.

The new anchors are just plain better! Old technology will get the job done, but the new stuff gets it done easier and with less fussing about. I consider any of the "new age" anchors to be better in general conditions than the old ones, and some types only work well in one bottom type, like the Danforth.

I have never used a trip line because I am anchoring too deep usually, and I anchor several times a day and again for the night. The extra hassle of float and line is more effort than I am willing to put out (since I have never had a problem). I never see anyone up here using a trip line...

Yes, like he said Fred. Maybe time to revel in the joy of one of the newer gen anchors, maybe..? Or, you can happily stay doin' what you're doin'

 

[FF]

"Maybe time to revel in the joy of one of the newer gen anchors, maybe..?"

Would need a pair as wandering up and down a narrow river after dark is not my preference.

I pick a spot to anchor for the night and prefer to be there in the AM.