High Friction Rudder Posts

[NHBoater]

This is a continuation from another post on upper helm being too stiff- but thought to start a new thread- I am new to this forum so if this should be added on to the other thead let me know.
In that post, the brain trust directed me away from the hydraulic steering and towards the rudders- yep they are stiff to say the least.
I still cannot tell if it is both or one in particular as I the clevis pins used to anchor the tangs on the connecting rod are fused- lots of PB Blaster today, will come back with repeated sprays of PB Blaster, heat and more leverage.

The stuffing boxes are indentical on each side and don't appear to have been touched. The rudder shafts carry up past the tiller arm to pillow bearings with a stop collar. Seems rugged enough and I like that the shafts are supported above the tiller arm.

I was able to break the nut free and back it off totally- back in my sailing days if I did this with a prop shaft it would get very exciting with lots of water coming in. This- not so much. The fixture seems to be right at water line so it is understood why there was not a ton of water- but with the nut completely off and a bunch of lock to lock steering- only got a few drips.
What did come up was murky and seem to be mix of water and either powdered corrosion stuff ( sorry for technical terms) or perhaps the remnants of some sort of old lubricant.
There is no zirk fitting on these boxes. If there is a call for lubrication, I am eager to hear how that is achieved.
The packing on this system goes up under the nut- there was not ever any leaking that I was aware of and the rudders did move any free-er with the nuts tightened down or completly off.
As you can see from the pictures- the shaft has a pretty tight fit into the tube and out to the rudder.
I am thinking that this is going to wait for haul out and may have to drop the rudders and clean everything out, but wanted to ask if there is any insight on what can be done in the water.
I will continue to work on the clevis pins to be able to determine if it is one or both rudders. With the hydraulic arm off - moving both rudders took just about everything I had to get them to move.

Appreciate any insight.

 

[Comodave]

You are on the right track in trying to determine if it is one rudder or both that are so tight. I would keep trying to get the clevis pins out. As you put PBlaster on take a hammer and rap on them. The vibration may help it penetrate.

 

[lwarden]

There isn't a lot that can be done in the water besides trying to work it back and forth and flush it out a bit.
The real solution is to pull the boat and drop the rudders as I'm sure you are aware. I had a bound rudder on my boat at the last haul out. I actually had to use a bottle jack to push the shaft out it was so bound up. Once it was out I used a brake hone to clean out the bore with some WD40 and cleaned up the shaft with wet or dry 600 grit. Then it went back together with red Lucas Oil grease, and new packing of course. It's been fine for the past few years and it made a huge difference in the ease of turning the wheel.

 

[NHBoater]

Follow up- thanks for guidance on looking at the rudder with my hard to turn helm.
Pulled the tie rod and hydraulic ram. Removed the stop collars ---- stbd rudder moved with three fingers of pressure. Port needed two hands and serious body bracing to move.
Started working them with 600 grit and PB blaster. Got the rudders lowered and worked on that end( yes I am on the hard for the winter) rudder shafts cleaned up well, good dose of grease and now both rudders moved with an easy 2 finger push.
Put everything back together, and helm is much easier to turn!

 

[Comodave]

Glad you made some progress.