Helmsman Hacks

[KMAL]

I noticed some slight scuffing on the fiber glass along the front cleat where the dock line feeds through. I found a product called NoWear Guard that I decided to try out.

Protect Your Boat From Rubbing & Chafe Damage w/No-Wear Guard

Protect you boat from rubbing & abrasion from fender ropes, mooring lines, halyards, and sheets. 316 stainless steel, aircraft grade adhesive, installs in minutes.

www.nowearguard.com

These are very thin 316 stainless steel sheets with glue on the back. I used the 6” on the “bridle cleat, and the 9” on the Sampson post cleat. It worked out well as you can see from the picture. They are easy to work with.

If I were to do it again, I would cut out an area for the bridle cleat connection to the fiberglass, so that the stainless could be moved higher on the flat upper edge which would provide more of the flat top to adhere to. So, I will order two more to cut in and fix the slight uplift.

I would cut the Sampson post cleat piece down some, because the metal can’t completely seal against the curvature along the bottom edge due to the multiple curves involved.

Looks nice (and practical).

 

[FWT]

I noticed some slight scuffing on the fiber glass along the front cleat where the dock line feeds through. I found a product called NoWear Guard that I decided to try out.

Protect Your Boat From Rubbing & Chafe Damage w/No-Wear Guard

Protect you boat from rubbing & abrasion from fender ropes, mooring lines, halyards, and sheets. 316 stainless steel, aircraft grade adhesive, installs in minutes.

www.nowearguard.com

These are very thin 316 stainless steel sheets with glue on the back. I used the 6” on the “bridle cleat, and the 9” on the Sampson post cleat. It worked out well as you can see from the picture. They are easy to work with.

If I were to do it again, I would cut out an area for the bridle cleat connection to the fiberglass, so that the stainless could be moved higher on the flat upper edge which would provide more of the flat top to adhere to. So, I will order two more to cut in and fix the slight uplift.

I would cut the Sampson post cleat piece down some, because the metal can’t completely seal against the curvature along the bottom edge due to the multiple curves involved.

That's a seriously good looking hack

 

[KMAL]

An alternative would be some 3m film - the type used on the front end of cars to protect from rocks, sun, etc.

 

[Helmsman]

That's a seriously good looking hack

Thank you, sir. We will see how it holds up.seems pretty sturdy.

 

[capran]

We have tried the Tide in the tank and a good sloshing around on a half full tank and a nearly full tank with no luck. Does anyone know how to remove the sensor on a newer 38E? Do you have to remove all th ebolts around the tank lid or can the sensor be removed by itself?

It is obvious that you haven't changed diapers for awhile!
My sensor was frozen solid with rust and junk when i first got the boat. Got the sensor out and took it home and completely disassembled it. Once cleaned the float should move easily up and down. The holes in the side of the tube allow liquid in and keep solids out so you should get many months of care-free use.
Some tips: use quick disconnects on the electrical ends and lubricate the thread. This way you only have to screw out the inner part and not remove the screws holding the base to the tank. Here is a picture of the model i have.
There is a spring wire on the bottom that when removed allows complete disassembly for cleaning.
Barrie

Barrie, or others with early Helmsman holding tank gauge. I'm ready to try to remove the sensor at the top of my 37 seville 2008, as it's still not working. Barrie mentions quick connectors as well as lubricating the thread going back in. any ideas about what lubricant and "quick connectors" to get, or should I try to find a new style gauge that doesn';t have internal parts? I just want to know if I'm 1/2. 3/4 full. last year, I thought we shouldn't be full based on # of flushes, but saw a small bit of fluid coming from under the floor into the bilge. I emptied tank and after several days of use and flushes, nothing appeared. if tank was full, might it wash back into the underside of the toilet and drip down? sure miss the simplicity of the Jabsco pump where all moving parts were easy to see and replace. sigh

 

[HeadedToTexas]

I just abandoned my holding tank sensor in place and applied the SCAD sensors to the exposed aft side of the tank.

 

[capran]

I just abandoned my holding tank sensor in place and applied the SCAD sensors to the exposed aft side of the tank.

I have a screenshot of your original post that had a link, but not tech savvy enough to find the link. the link screenshot says "TM series scad monitors". is there an actual model number? since our boats are pretty close to same age, I wonder if the holding tank is the same. did you mount it on the forward side or back side of the tank? did you use the old wiring and just cut and move it to the scad unit. any pics or descriptions, model numbers, etc would help. I'm way too concrete for my own good, but if I can do it myself, I'd like to try. my boat yard in Anacortes charges not just for the work on the boat, but an extra hour to "gather tools", drive the 400 yards to the boat, and to return to the shop when done. conversly, sounds like you took it off to clean, which we have not done. any tips on that/

 

[HeadedToTexas]

They make two models of this tank monitor, the TM2 for two tanks and the TM1 for one tank. I this case, we are only monitoring one tank, so the TM1 is what we have. Here is the link.

TM Series Tank Montors - SCAD Technologies LLC

SCAD TM series tank monitors are easy to install and use sensors that attached to the outside of a tank, which cannot foul.

scadtech.com

The sensors are “just” a pair of adhesive backed foil strips with wires affixed to them. The instructions are clear about how far apart they must be. The aft face of the holding tank is accessible from the engine room and you can see them in this picture.

I zip tied the old cable in place and ran the new cable the short distance to where the display mounts. Works like a charm. No moving parts.

 

[Jklotz]

They make two models of this tank monitor, the TM2 for two tanks and the TM1 for one tank. I this case, we are only monitoring one tank, so the TM1 is what we have. Here is the link.

TM Series Tank Montors - SCAD Technologies LLC

SCAD TM series tank monitors are easy to install and use sensors that attached to the outside of a tank, which cannot foul.

scadtech.com

The sensors are “just” a pair of adhesive backed foil strips with wires affixed to them. The instructions are clear about how far apart they must be. The aft face of the holding tank is accessible from the engine room and you can see them in this picture.

View attachment 164776

I zip tied the old cable in place and ran the new cable the short distance to where the display mounts. Works like a charm. No moving parts.

Ahh, that's what those strips are! I thought somebody at the factory forgot to remove some packing tape

 

[capran]

They make two models of this tank monitor, the TM2 for two tanks and the TM1 for one tank. I this case, we are only monitoring one tank, so the TM1 is what we have. Here is the link.

TM Series Tank Montors - SCAD Technologies LLC

SCAD TM series tank monitors are easy to install and use sensors that attached to the outside of a tank, which cannot foul.

scadtech.com

The sensors are “just” a pair of adhesive backed foil strips with wires affixed to them. The instructions are clear about how far apart they must be. The aft face of the holding tank is accessible from the engine room and you can see them in this picture.

View attachment 164776

I zip tied the old cable in place and ran the new cable the short distance to where the display mounts. Works like a charm. No moving parts.

thank you. where did you mount the display? is the grey wire with the 2 connectors the same cable that went to the top of the old unit at the top of the holding tank?

 

[HeadedToTexas]

I was pretty sure I had before and after pictures of that display installation, but now I can't find them. My Hull #3 has the holding tank level gauge right by the forward head control switches in the forward head. Essentially, I just removed the original display and toggle power switch and used the same hole to mount the SCAD display. It is not the exact same type of mount, but very similar in size requiring only four small screw holes to complete the mount. There can't be more than 4-5 feet of wire distance between that display site and the foil strips on the holding tank. It was the easiest "electronics" job I've done on the boat so far.

 

[capran]

I was pretty sure I had before and after pictures of that display installation, but now I can't find them. My Hull #3 has the holding tank level gauge right by the forward head control switches in the forward head. Essentially, I just removed the original display and toggle power switch and used the same hole to mount the SCAD display. It is not the exact same type of mount, but very similar in size requiring only four small screw holes to complete the mount. There can't be more than 4-5 feet of wire distance between that display site and the foil strips on the holding tank. It was the easiest "electronics" job I've done on the boat so far.

Thanks. That's easy enough knowing the toggle must be in the same location in our boats. I'm still tempted to remove and clean once, to see if it will work. Since we do travel to Mexico we have learned to adapt to not putting toilet paper in the toilet, so if I could get it working again maybe it would last. when you removed yours 3 times, was it difficult? type of sealant to use when reinstalling. Does it unscrew, or is it disconnected at the base where it seems to attach to the holding tank? any hints appreciated

 

[HeadedToTexas]

The sensor float assembly unscrews, but it felt easier to me to deal with the six Phillips screws and remove the adapter ring. No sealant, just the gasket.

 

[capran]

The sensor float assembly unscrews, but it felt easier to me to deal with the six Phillips screws and remove the adapter ring. No sealant, just the gasket.

View attachment 164805

great pic. Was the gasket reusable? I'll be over to the boat in a month. I'll look to see if I have an old pic. seems like placement was off to the port side and under the step, by my near 73 year old brain isn't as sharp as it used to be.

 

[HeadedToTexas]

The gasket wasn’t perfect, but it’s back in service and has held seal from the modest rolling I’ve thrown at it.

 

[capran]

The gasket wasn’t perfect, but it’s back in service and has held seal from the modest rolling I’ve thrown at it.

If I go through with it, I do have some blue liquid gasket to reinforce it. I really appreciate your input!!! Thank you so much!