Grade 43 engine control cables (Morse-Teleflex) question

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Scraping Paint
Nov 10, 2007
Hi Guys,

Are there any relevant *benefits, problems, considerations etc when deciding for the size of the control cables.?

I have the option to chose 33 or 43 cables with my Kobelt model 2009 unit but don't wether 43 cables are better than 33 cables.
WE use the 43 and there a simple drop in.

AS our throttle is pulled to a stop for idle , and then pulled thru the stop to shut down .

Therefore a good non stretch cable , that had a repeatable length seems better than outboard dink stuff.

They look similar but the construction is heavier by a good deal.
Are there friction problems (more friction) if the engine controls are put in series (for a two station set-up) or is it best to run cables directly from each control head to the engine?

is it best to run cables directly from each control head to the engine?

The problem with this is the working controls will be operating the engine/tranny controls and also dragging the out of use controls to follow.

This is OK , but the detents for position may need to be removed, and the control heads very free.

The assemblies sold to "solve" this hassle are not trouble free, see posts on this board.
It will probably be the series installation.


Another forum mentions that only the lower control head should have a neutral position to avoid the extra "power" required to move the levers.


Is this a valid statement?
On most control heads the shift lever can easily be removed .

There is a screw that sets the spring tension on the ball that pushes into a detent that can be eased if required.

Some light stop will help folks that attempt to dock from the fly bridge know when they are out of gear.

THe ball is also the source of friction so a lever that is not vertical wont move from its own weight hitting chop at speed.
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