Fuel system plumbing question

[Comodave]

Removing the hoses isn’t that difficult. Use a heat gun to warm up the hose should help it to break loose. First turn the hose on the barb fitting to break it free then use some heat to soften up the hose. Then wiggle it back and forth while pulling it off.

 

[av8r]

Cutting the fittings also will introduce contamination into the fuel system, something you really want to avoid.

 

[Comodave]

Cutting the fittings also will introduce contamination into the fuel system, something you really want to avoid.

Yup, and more work for you replacing the cut fitting.

 

[CharlieO.]

Take off all the hoses, remove/unscrew the nipples, remove the handle from the ball valve, that should give you enough clearance to unscrew/unthread the whole assembly from above the selector valve.

 

[paulga]

Should you saw through the close, how do you later grab the 2 halves to remove them?

That T fitting has a leaking issue, i don't need to reuse it
Now that I see the downside of cutting it through, I will not consider cutting

 

[Bmarler]

For stuff like this, use a good thread sealant like loctite 567 or 577.
With threaded assemblies, sometimes you can’t exactly tighten them up and have them line up perfectly. Thread sealant let’s you line them up properly and still provide a good seal.
You need to try to assemble only tightening, never back up to align. Also, don’t move anything again once you’ve assembled it as it can break the seal. These types of sealants cure in the absence of air, so they kick pretty quickly. Try to work smoothly and quickly for best results.
In fact, try dry fitting the assembly first so you can make a good plan of what order it needs to go together.

 

[SteveK]

@paulga
I am concerned that you should not do this job. You lack the basic experience of some simple steps, tools to use and so on.
There are too many failure points that can cause you serious grief should a diesel leak occur. JMO

The advice given is spot on, given by those that have done it, but the advice should be received by someone who does not ask novice questions, someone with basic skills who is looking for support in a process they have rudimentary experience.

You were applauded for diving right into DIY maintenance on your boat. But with the number of threads started and too few reported finished, these threads serve as great reference threads for others.

At the same time, you still seem to ask questions that you know the answer before you ask, having found the answer elsewhere. Your internet search skills are outstanding.

 

[paulga]

For stuff like this, use a good thread sealant like loctite 567 or 577.
With threaded assemblies, sometimes you can’t exactly tighten them up and have them line up perfectly. Thread sealant let’s you line them up properly and still provide a good seal.
You need to try to assemble only tightening, never back up to align. Also, don’t move anything again once you’ve assembled it as it can break the seal. These types of sealants cure in the absence of air, so they kick pretty quickly. Try to work smoothly and quickly for best results.
In fact, try dry fitting the assembly first so you can make a good plan of what order it needs to go together.

LOCTITE® 592 is also Anaerobic curing. It has Teflon, while 567 does not say it containing Teflon. Does 592 have a wider scope of application?

 

[TJM]

SteveK is stating what most of us are feeling. Well written Steve. paulga take this advise with the intention that it is written. This is why I have backed away. You lack the simple experience to be messing with fuel systems etc.... Internet searches will only provide a piece of the puzzle.

 

[paulga]

Thanks
with those couplers out of place, I can mount the Y and T higher, so that I can use the existing hoses on the pump rather than having to disconnect them and put on longer hoses

View attachment 156698

I feel it is tricky how to brace the Y diverter firmly when I take this T off

View attachment 156699

Hi, I have assembled the couplers and joined the hoses. I kept the prime pump upstream of the filters. I preferred having the source hose higher than the racors, but it would have been easier if i mounted the couplers below the racors and bent the joining hose, because there is more clearance.

Do you see any violations of the standards or places for improvement? Where would you guys have done differently?

The removed pieces

 

[paulga]

Any comments?
This is the most difficult and time consuming repair that I have sort of pulled through by far

 

[KnotYet]

Good Job?
I'm sure someone with different experience and skills would do things their own way.
If it works the way you intend that's great.

 

[Bmarler]

Any comments?
This is the most difficult and time consuming repair that I have sort of pulled through by far

I missed your update to this thread till now. Looks like you have it all together, labeled, and most importantly, you understand how it functions.
Different people think differently about how they do things. When I do a project like that I’ll mount the valves behind a panel so the handles poke through. All the plumbing would be behind and out of sight. While it looks neater, my method makes it hard to see if there’s a seeping connection, and more care is required on assembly to make it secure.
Here, you have good access to everything. Easy to see if anything is seeping.
The only thing missing that a surveyor may call out is the lack of the stupid little metal bowls at the filter base.

Someone had a fix for that with little pails that hung underneath them.
All in all, a job well done.

 

[SteveK]

I see an end of a hose from, for? Also as I said a while back the cross connection has one filter receiving the fuel on the inside and one on the outside of the filter element. The one getting fuel into the inside is not being allowed to separate water, instead that filter will clog faster. This is just my observation and I am alone in seeing that.

 

[Bmarler]

I assumed he followed the arrows for in and out. If not, good catch.

 

[paulga]

Good Job?
I'm sure someone with different experience and skills would do things their own way.
If it works the way you intend that's great.

I aimed for a good job, but it looks still lacking some master touch
I want to know what other ppl would have routed this system, eg, would you have a short straight hose here, or a longer U shaped hose?

 

[SteveK]

I assumed he followed the arrows for in and out. If not, good catch.

identical filters are they not? inlets and outlets are not interchangable. One side is IN, the other OUT. In the picture looks like an IN going to an OUT.

 

[Bmarler]

identical filters are they not? inlets and outlets are not interchangable. One side is IN, the other OUT. In the picture looks like an IN going to an OUT.

I thought you could mount the bracket to face any of 90 degree positions. Am I mistaken?

 

[KnotYet]

I thought you could mount the bracket to face any of 90 degree positions. Am I mistaken?

Perhaps paulga could provide more detailed photos to clear up this question?

 

[paulga]

identical filters are they not? inlets and outlets are not interchangable. One side is IN, the other OUT. In the picture looks like an IN going to an OUT.

yes, @Bmarler I think it can be rotated for mounting

according to photos from last year, the inlet boss on the left side is "IN"

but there is no markings on the right side

it has working this way for a long time. If I have to make any changes I'd want to upgrade to the newer model in my post #18

 

[KnotYet]

Thanks for the photos.
Rather than continue to use one filter backwards as it apparently is plumbed,
I would simply remove and rotate the 'wrong' one 180 degrees. No big deal?

 

[heysteve]

If I have to make any changes I'd want to upgrade to the newer model in my post #18

If you're gonna upgrade, how about this Keenan setup? The thing looks amazing.

 

[paulga]

If you're gonna upgrade, how about this Keenan setup? The thing looks amazing.

View attachment 162977

Thanks for the recommendation.
albeit the awesome look, it's overkill for my boat. The racor model only costs 1/3 of the price.

 

[paulga]

Thanks for the photos.
Rather than continue to use one filter backwards as it apparently is plumbed,
I would simply remove and rotate the 'wrong' one 180 degrees. No big deal?

There is a selector valve to choose between the left and right racor
I would continue to rely on the correctly mounted filter, the left side filter until the next upgrade.
Thanks @SteveK for highlighting this. I think the left side racor with the visible "IN" label is correctly mounted. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[SteveK]

The left side of both should be the same. The right sides should be the same. But it looks like you have a right side going across to a left side. Then it also looks like far left side and far right side is also grouped to the lower valve.

 

[SteveK]

I thought you could mount the bracket to face any of 90 degree positions. Am I mistaken?

I agree but see the racor labels both in front which suggests they are mounted the same. I stand to be corrected and as Knotyet said, more pictures may solve this. Post 140 shows the word "in" which is right side of the left filter. Where is "IN" on the right hand filter

 

[paulga]

I agree but see the racor labels both in front which suggests they are mounted the same. I stand to be corrected and as Knotyet said, more pictures may solve this. Post 140 shows the word "in" which is right side of the left filter. Where is "IN" on hte right hand filter

it's mysterious why the boss on the right racor does not have a marking
I will double check

 

[luna]

If you were to buy new a Racor 75500 Max (or any other dual filter Racor) the fuel inlet is the furthest forward down facing port on the central selector valve body. From there the fuel travels through the selector valve, then to one or both of the 90º unequal leg pipe elbows and into the filter housing body from the ports on the "outside" of the filter housing body.

The cleaned fuel leaves the filter housing body via the ports on the "inside", which are directly connected to the same block of metal that is the inlet's selector valve body but in this instance only serves as a manifold to the downward facing port that is furthest rearward.

You can see the word "IN" on the "outside" ports (and the central valve body's ports) on this PDF, if you blow it up.

https://www.parker.com/content/dam/Parker-com/Literature/Racor/RSL/RSL0313_CUT_75500MAX-MAXM-MAXP.pdf

That does not mean that if you have 2 single 500 series Racor filters you have to build your own dual filter unit that way. It will work fine as long as you respect the "in" and "out" filter body ports as there is a correct flow path through the filter body assembly.

The previous pictures including the picture in Post #136 lead me to believe that the fuel supply lines are connected to the correct ports on both filter bodies as on the right hand side filter body you cannot see the nylon plug for the optional heater. If the plumbing was wrong you would see this plug (if it exists) on the right hand side of the right hand filter body in the pictures shown in Post #7.

The 2nd picture in Post #140 is clearly a picture of the single Racor 500 Series that services the Generator and is not part of a dual filter assembly. What you see appears to be the Generator's fuel supply line connected correctly to the filter bodies "out" port. No "Out" is marked on the port as most people can figure it out with just the "in" on the other port marked.

Unless you are there, I don't think any of us knows for sure. My gut says it's right.

 

[paulga]

If you were to buy new a Racor 75500 Max (or any other dual filter Racor) the fuel inlet is the furthest forward down facing port on the central selector valve body. From there the fuel travels through the selector valve, then to one or both of the 90º unequal leg pipe elbows and into the filter housing body from the ports on the "outside" of the filter housing body.

The cleaned fuel leaves the filter housing body via the ports on the "inside", which are directly connected to the same block of metal that is the inlet's selector valve body but in this instance only serves as a manifold to the downward facing port that is furthest rearward.

You can see the word "IN" on the "outside" ports (and the central valve body's ports) on this PDF, if you blow it up.

https://www.parker.com/content/dam/Parker-com/Literature/Racor/RSL/RSL0313_CUT_75500MAX-MAXM-MAXP.pdf

That does not mean that if you have 2 single 500 series Racor filters you have to build your own dual filter unit that way. It will work fine as long as you respect the "in" and "out" filter body ports as there is a correct flow path through the filter body assembly.

The previous pictures including the picture in Post #136 lead me to believe that the fuel supply lines are connected to the correct ports on both filter bodies as on the right hand side filter body you cannot see the nylon plug for the optional heater. If the plumbing was wrong you would see this plug (if it exists) on the right hand side of the right hand filter body in the pictures shown in Post #7.

The 2nd picture in Post #140 is clearly a picture of the single Racor 500 Series that services the Generator and is not part of a dual filter assembly. What you see appears to be the Generator's fuel supply line connected correctly to the filter bodies "out" port. No "Out" is marked on the port as most people can figure it out with just the "in" on the other port marked.

Unless you are there, I don't think any of us knows for sure. My gut says it's right.

Thanks.
I used to think the selector valve controls both the inlet and outlet ports, so two valves integrated into one.
the 90 degree steel pipe elbows look perfectly symmetric, why are they unequal leg?

 

[luna]

The 90º steel pipe elbows have legs that are different lengths. One leg (the vertical one in your post's drawing) has virtually no straight section past the 90º curved portion, while the other leg has a straight section of about what, 3" long past the 90º curve? That fact makes them an unequal leg pipe elbow.

Being unequal legged is not important in the design of the assembly, other than they need to be long enough to connect to the filter body and the selector valve.

I used the unequal leg pipe elbow phrase simply to help define the inlet flow path.