paulga
Guru
- Joined
- May 28, 2018
- Messages
- 1,679
- Location
- United States
- Vessel Name
- DD
- Vessel Make
- Marine Trader Sundeck 40'
Photos???
Ok, so clearly that's not OEM. Running over a wire, Teflon tape in a fuel system, and who knows what else, would give me pause.
The more devices you add to a fuel system, the more problems you will have diagnosing system related fuel failures. If you want to utilize the Racor, a generator,
and several diesel heat, I would go into a manifold that has shutoff valves for each line. That would be much easier to isolate fuel problems in the future.
Ted
Do you use pipe dope only to seal fuel pipes?
I remember yellow Teflon tape is for fuel pipes. Do you use it?
Ok, so clearly that's not OEM. Running over a wire, Teflon tape in a fuel system, and who knows what else, would give me pause.
The more devices you add to a fuel system, the more problems you will have diagnosing system related fuel failures. If you want to utilize the Racor, a generator,
and several diesel heat, I would go into a manifold that has shutoff valves for each line. That would be much easier to isolate fuel problems in the future.
Ted
Is this one rated for fuel pipes?The yellow tape is for natural gas and propane. For liquid fuels dope is a better choice as it's less likely to shed debris into the fuel system.
Pretty sure that's a Racor 500. It has a maximum flow rate of 60 GPH. Not sure what size generator you have, but my 9 KW Onan burns maximum a gallon an hour and returns maybe 10 gallons per hour to the fuel tank. I think you will be fine. What size fuel hose from the tank to the Racor? Do your heaters return fuel to the tank? Hard to imagine your heaters burning more than 1 GPH (138,000 BTUs in a gallon of diesel).
Ted
Ok, so clearly that's not OEM. Running over a wire, Teflon tape in a fuel system, and who knows what else, would give me pause.
The more devices you add to a fuel system, the more problems you will have diagnosing system related fuel failures. If you want to utilize the Racor, a generator,
and several diesel heat, I would go into a manifold that has shutoff valves for each line. That would be much easier to isolate fuel problems in the future.
Ted
Does the manifold install with control valves and a priming pump?
Is there assembled product available?
A search for "diesel fuel manifold " retuned this:
https://shop.keenanfilters.com/products/3-valve-fuel-water-manifold
They offer 2 and 4 valve models also. The outlets are 1/2" pipe thread, but bushings are in expensive.
There are other manufacturers that are quite a bit more expensive.
Regarding your heaters, you probably need to identify your make and model. If it doesn't have its own fuel pump and is gravity fed, that will require a more complicated setup.
Ted
what couplings and hose should connect from the racor outlet to the manifold inlet? and how does the original racor outlet rubber hose hook onto one of the three ports?
I'm planning to install a Chinese diesel heater that is said to be a copy of Espar d4. d4 has a fuel pump that can extract fuel from a source within 6' distance and send the fuel up to 20' away. so it's not gravity feed.
The Racor outlet has an adapter to hose barb that should be sufficient depending on where the manifold is placed. The manifold inlet is either 3/8" or 1/2" pipe thread. So an adapter from that to the same size hose barb as the Racor outlet will be required. You will also need adapters from the manifold outlet valves to hose barb. You should buy Coastguard approved diesel fuel hose to run between the various connections. If you're not familiar with plumbing diesel fuel lines, it would be advisable to seek qualified help on proper techniques (such as no Teflon tape).
If each heater and the generator have their own fuel pump, flow shouldn't be an issue. One final thought, if running fuel line through bulkheads (such as your generator), hose by it self could easily be a braided by the bulkhead material. Metal pipe through the bulkhead is a better choice.
Ted
does a manifold also need a bleeding pump to prime?
No, the generator will do it.
Ted
I would have to drain the Gen. racor (or drain ~1/2) for changing the hose connections
this racor does not have a bleeding pump
last month when I changed this racor filter, I had to fill it up using a disposable cola cup
do you mean I could have run the genny to prime the (empty) racor? with the manifold installed, the genny fuel pump can prime the manifold as well?
Not familiar with your specific generator, but all manufacturers have a provision for pulling fuel through the fuel lines to prime the lift pump and injector pump. My Onan has an electric lift pump that can be run without cranking the engine. My John Deere main engine has a lever on the side of the lift pump that allows you to pump the lift pump without cranking the engine. I would consult your owner's manual for changing the fuel filter on the engine or bleeding the system.
If you don't have the owner's manual, many are available online as a PDF or from the manufacturer.
Ted
I would have to drain the Gen. racor (or drain ~1/2) for changing the hose connections
this racor does not have a bleeding pump
last month when I changed this racor filter, I had to fill it up using a disposable cola cup
do you mean I could have run the genny to prime the (empty) racor? with the manifold installed, the genny fuel pump can prime the manifold as well?
You need to be careful not to run the preheat to long as you can burn out the glow plugs. On my generator, I disconnect the positive lead on the fuel pump and run a jumper wire to the battery when priming filters.
If you choose to use the preheat button, maybe go 10 seconds and then 10 minute interval before doing it again.
Ted
using the jumper wires, do you still need to give the pump a break after a continuous running interval?
No, the pump runs continuously when the generator is running. It's important for me to stress that you want to disconnect the fuel pump positive wire from the harness before connecting it to the jumper wire. Don't want to run voltage back up the wiring harness. Remember to reconnect the fuel pump back to the wiring harness after priming the fuel system.
Ted
i was able to find the lift pump. which is positive connector on the pump? did you disconnect the big harness (location does not match "20 amp dc circuit braker" exactly maybe not shown), or one of the two connectors on the lift pump?
View attachment 145053
View attachment 145055
In the lower picture, the upper blue circle is the fuel line going to the fuel filter. Not sure if there are 2 electrical connections or one. On my pump there are 2 with one being attached to the engine (negative). It hard to tell from the picture if the lower blue circle on the curly wire goes to the frame or attaches to the wiring harness. On my fuel pump, there are short leads with connectors on the ends. One plugs onto a connector on the wiring harness.
From the picture, getting to the fuel filter looks to be a PIA. Wondering if you've changed it and had to remove the fuel hose to do it.
Ted
In the lower picture, the upper blue circle is the fuel line going to the fuel filter. Not sure if there are 2 electrical connections or one. On my pump there are 2 with one being attached to the engine (negative). It hard to tell from the picture if the lower blue circle on the curly wire goes to the frame or attaches to the wiring harness. On my fuel pump, there are short leads with connectors on the ends. One plugs onto a connector on the wiring harness.
From the picture, getting to the fuel filter looks to be a PIA. Wondering if you've changed it and had to remove the fuel hose to do it.
Ted
If the lift pump has straight forward connectors, does the jumper wires connect to the nearest battery, or to some DC hub like the attached pictures:
View attachment 145085
View attachment 145086
Does any auto jumper wire with jaw clamps connector work?