Foredeck Core repairs. Ill give it a go.....

[Barking Sands]

So I have known there was a soft spot on the port foredeck since I bought the boat. I have been putting it off to do the Garmin, Victron, Lifepo, Interior, etc upgrades. But now all those are done. So its time for the exterior. Since I have new V-berth cushions, the next step is to waterproof the foredeck so there are no more leaks into the V-berth. I could have just recalked everything but that wouldn't address the soft core. So I did some exploratory holes to find the edges of the good wood and then just started cutting. At first I was conservative cutting out a small section but then expanded it to a second larger area just to get to everything. Even then I didnt get everything. So instead of cutting more I cut back the loose core another inch into the cavity using various tools/grinders.

What I found was much worse than the image I had in my head. Although it was not as bad in other sections. This is a Tung Hwa Senator and instead of using the little parquet squares it actually had teak planks run at an angle. usually no more than 12-14 inches long by 4 inches wide and 1/2 inch deep. So even though some was wet, it was still very strong. Still, I cut most of that out. I used some leftover Coosa board pieces that I had and cut and cut them to fit, some being shoved up into the fiberglass pockets. Once all measure I mixed up some thickened Total boat Epoxy and thickener to make some runny peanut butter and slathered it up under the ledges and all over the coosa. Leveled it as best I could and let it dry. Once set I sanded, then followed with several layers if 1708 biaxial. I then topped it off with a few layers of chopped strand matt to layer into and over the existing top layers. More sanding.

I then used, after watching Andy at Boatworks today, West 810 fairing additive to the Total Boat epoxy. I really liked the 810 fairing mix. Light, strong and sandable. It also spread well.. More sanding. M0re 810, more sanding.

For the paint I used aircraft paint that got for free. As you see in the pictures the primer is two part green aircraft primer. Its the best primer I have ever used. Even though it looks it, it is NOT Zinc Chromate. Sanded more. The pics you see is one coat of Sherwin Williams Jet Glo Matterhorn white. This paint is a two part high solids and I chose it because I got 4 gallons free. Also it can be polished well and future repairs are easily blended. It also has extreme UV resistance.

I need to put at least one more coat on. Then ill be using Kiwigrip on the deck pads. Eventually I will do the entire boat, but for now I needed to get the leaks done.
There were mistakes made, and it isnt even remotely a pro job. But it is a huge improvement over what was there..

 

[Comodave]

Looks very nice. Huge amount or work, you are to be congratulated.

 

[Barking Sands]

Looks very nice. Huge amount or work, you are to be congratulated.

Thanks brother. I still have tons to paint on this old cheap boat, but it is now waterproof in the living area..lol.

 

[Datenight]

I think you did a fantastic job.

Rob

 

[Bmarler]

Agreed, kudos on having the nerve to tear into it. Starting is always the hardest part for me. Once your into it, the job takes its own path to completion.

 

[3rdOrderEffect]

Looks great to me! If it’s not perfect so what; it’s fiberglass so you can obsess over the details later or leave it as is forever. But your Vberth isn’t going to leak anymore and a known issue has been tackled. Time to go boating and enjoy

 

[Marco Flamingo]

Now that you have gone through all of that, I'll tell you what my PO did on my boat (which I think is identical to yours). The soft deck issue apparently came about when the first owner put in a windlass. The old "cut a hole in the deck" and install.

The original foredeck was teak planking/fiberglass/teak ply parquet/fiberglass. The teak ply layer had rotted out all around the windlass and down the port side. The PO (probably hired help) sanded the teak deck and put layers of 8" fiberglass tape on a bias with epoxy. Essentially making a new layered deck of heavy fiberglass/the original teak planking/fiberglass/old rotted ply/fiberglass.

I've shot epoxy/foam in places to seal off the "rotted ply layer," but that layer is basically inert and causing no issues. The original teak planking is now the "core" layer. The new deck surface was very professionaly sealed to the teak deck trim on the edges with thiocol. It was finished with a heavily-textured paint finish.

I would not have known any of this if the PO hadn't told me. Hadn't thought about it until your post. Out of sight, out of mind. Might drive some crazy.

 

[Barking Sands]

Agreed, kudos on having the nerve to tear into it. Starting is always the hardest part for me. Once your into it, the job takes its own path to completion.

Its own path to completion is right. Once accessed, old wood removed and cleaned...the path becomes obvious.

 

[Barking Sands]

Looks great to me! If it’s not perfect so what; it’s fiberglass so you can obsess over the details later or leave it as is forever. But your Vberth isn’t going to leak anymore and a known issue has been tackled. Time to go boating and enjoy

That is the goal. I will not obsess. I do not want a perfect boat. Functional will do just fine.

 

[PierreR]

On a previous boat, I went the route you did of cutting off the top layer, removing the core and layering up again. The results were good but the work was a lot and the worry I would not be successful was also there.

On this boat I had areas that were soft with very little core left no rotted. This time I used a product called Injectadeck with great success. I drilled 5/16" holes on 6" centers and injected foam. The foam came up through all the holes and dried. Then I sanded and drilled some of the foam out of the hole. I then cut fiberglass plugs out of fiberglass driveway markers, dipped them in epoxy and pounded them flush. I then sanded and painted. Approximately 270 holes and $1,250 in material. My coring is thick.
All total about two hours to drill the holes, three hours to inject the stuff. three hours to sand the foam flat and re-drill the holes and four hours to cut the plugs and install them. Total about 12 hours not including sanding plugs flush and repainting.

 

[Barking Sands]

On a previous boat, I went the route you did of cutting off the top layer, removing the core and layering up again. The results were good but the work was a lot and the worry I would not be successful was also there.

On this boat I had areas that were soft with very little core left no rotted. This time I used a product called Injectadeck with great success. I drilled 5/16" holes on 6" centers and injected foam. The foam came up through all the holes and dried. Then I sanded and drilled some of the foam out of the hole. I then cut fiberglass plugs out of fiberglass driveway markers, dipped them in epoxy and pounded them flush. I then sanded and painted. Approximately 270 holes and $1,250 in material. My coring is thick.
All total about two hours to drill the holes, three hours to inject the stuff. three hours to sand the foam flat and re-drill the holes and four hours to cut the plugs and install them. Total about 12 hours not including sanding plugs flush and repainting.

For the right curcumstance that can do. But if you look at the picture of the cut open deck..there is about a quart of water in there...lol.

 

[PierreR]

For the right curcumstance that can do. But if you look at the picture of the cut open deck..there is about a quart of water in there...lol.

I did have the holes drilled in dry heated storage for a couple months before injecting.

 

[Barking Sands]

I did have the holes drilled in dry heated storage for a couple months before injecting.

Dry heated storage would be nice!

 

[PierreR]

Injectadeck needs water to cure and displaces water. They claim that you don't have to suck the water out. I don't know how far you can push that. There were places where it took nearly a week to really firm up the decks. I suspect there was not enough water remaining the cure the foam fast.

 

[PierreR]

I still have missing core around the windlass and chain locker. I did not use Injectadeck there because it would just pour out all over the chain and rope. I like the firmness and waterproofness of the foam so I think I will try to glue some foam backer rod into the gap around the windlass and hawse pipe and inject foam.

 

[O C Diver]

So I have known there was a soft spot on the port foredeck since I bought the boat. I have been putting it off to do the Garmin, Victron, Lifepo, Interior, etc upgrades. But now all those are done. So its time for the exterior. Since I have new V-berth cushions, the next step is to waterproof the foredeck so there are no more leaks into the V-berth. I could have just recalked everything but that wouldn't address the soft core. So I did some exploratory holes to find the edges of the good wood and then just started cutting. At first I was conservative cutting out a small section but then expanded it to a second larger area just to get to everything. Even then I didnt get everything. So instead of cutting more I cut back the loose core another inch into the cavity using various tools/grinders.

What I found was much worse than the image I had in my head. Although it was not as bad in other sections. This is a Tung Hwa Senator and instead of using the little parquet squares it actually had teak planks run at an angle. usually no more than 12-14 inches long by 4 inches wide and 1/2 inch deep. So even though some was wet, it was still very strong. Still, I cut most of that out. I used some leftover Coosa board pieces that I had and cut and cut them to fit, some being shoved up into the fiberglass pockets. Once all measure I mixed up some thickened Total boat Epoxy and thickener to make some runny peanut butter and slathered it up under the ledges and all over the coosa. Leveled it as best I could and let it dry. Once set I sanded, then followed with several layers if 1708 biaxial. I then topped it off with a few layers of chopped strand matt to layer into and over the existing top layers. More sanding.

I then used, after watching Andy at Boatworks today, West 810 fairing additive to the Total Boat epoxy. I really liked the 810 fairing mix. Light, strong and sandable. It also spread well.. More sanding. M0re 810, more sanding.

For the paint I used aircraft paint that got for free. As you see in the pictures the primer is two part green aircraft primer. Its the best primer I have ever used. Even though it looks it, it is NOT Zinc Chromate. Sanded more. The pics you see is one coat of Sherwin Williams Jet Glo Matterhorn white. This paint is a two part high solids and I chose it because I got 4 gallons free. Also it can be polished well and future repairs are easily blended. It also has extreme UV resistance.

I need to put at least one more coat on. Then ill be using Kiwigrip on the deck pads. Eventually I will do the entire boat, but for now I needed to get the leaks done.
There were mistakes made, and it isnt even remotely a pro job. But it is a huge improvement over what was there..

Do it right, and you only do it once! Nice job!

Ted

 

[Diep]

Nice job! Way to proceed with boldness.

 

[fgarriso]

" I found was much worse than the image I had in my head. "
It always is!

 

[Mambo42]

If I could do it like that I would be extremely happy. Great job and you accomplished the goal, what else would you want ?