Float switch failure again - piece of junk

[Barrie]

RULE-A-MATIC plus float switch failed again. Made in China. Installed 2016 but less than 3 years of real-time, summertime operation in a relatively dry bilge. Fresh water boat. This float switch is what is keeping you from possibly sinking! Anyone suggest a better brand? These things are not cheap.
I cut it open to see inside and the contacts are steel and the spring is rusty. Looks like a bad factory seal. Guess the days of mercury switches are gone. See picture.
Barrie

 

[Giggitoni]

RULE-A-MATIC plus float switch failed again. Made in China. Installed 2016 but less than 3 years of real-time, summertime operation in a relatively dry bilge. Fresh water boat. This float switch is what is keeping you from possibly sinking! Anyone suggest a better brand? These things are not cheap.
I cut it open to see inside and the contacts are steel and the spring is rusty. Looks like a bad factory seal. Guess the days of mercury switches are gone. See picture.
Barrie

I've always used a Rule pump with separate float switch. I don't trust the switch and pump combination.

 

[motion30]

Ultra bilge pump switches are considered to be the most reliable in the industry. I bought 3 years ago and that had zero problems. I will no longer will by rule products

 

[motion30]

An ultra films pump switch will not fail you. They are expensive but well worth the money. My experience with the roll switches has been they fail in the on position and then the bilge pump runs with no water and burns up

 

[Steve1.0]

Ultra bilge pump switches are considered to be the most reliable in the industry. I bought 3 years ago and that had zero problems. I will no longer will by rule products

Agreed! Rule products, no bueno'.

 

[SteveK]

Bilge Guard.
electronic bilge pump switch that will not pump oil or fuel, just water.

 

[Taras]

Gypsy,
I'm just wondering if you ever use products with any Bleach in them in the area where this float switch lives? The reason I ask is that I had similar issues with float switches until I started to completely eliminate bleach and products that contain bleach that come in contact with the float switch. My shower sump(s) have been very reliable since I made the change to "Clean Potties" instead of all the other products.

 

[DCDC]

We have 2 Ultra switches in the main bilge, no problems after 8 years. Just replaced 2 pumps with failed float switches in our lazerette. Used Water Witch switches. Had to adjust the mounting height but working well so far. They have built in delay so they don’t activate due to sloshing and will run for 15 seconds after low level activates to help empty bilge.

 

[Irish Rambler]

I buy them from Ebay, although they are made in China for bilge and 2 shower compartments.
Average cost for 750 GPM auto pump with simpler wiring down in the bilge area, 18€, about 15£ delivered.
Never had one fail since they replaced the Rule pumps,

 

[LarryM]

We have 2 Ultra switches in the main bilge, no problems after 8 years. Just replaced 2 pumps with failed float switches in our lazerette. Used Water Witch switches. Had to adjust the mounting height but working well so far. They have built in delay so they don’t activate due to sloshing and will run for 15 seconds after low level activates to help empty bilge.

Absolutely, Ultra Senior and/or Junior switches. Also, I'm now buying Rule Gold series bilge pumps which have been completely reliable as well.

 

[Max1]

Bilge switch failure has me worried too.
Has anyone ever tried wiring switches in parallel in order to have redundant switches if one fails? Wouldn't be hard to do.
Periodic testing to make sure both switches are working would be easy too

 

[SteveK]

Bilge switch failure has me worried too.
Has anyone ever tried wiring switches in parallel in order to have redundant switches if one fails? Wouldn't be hard to do.
Periodic testing to make sure both switches are working would be easy too

Why?
Each bilge pump should have a switch direct bypassing the float automatic switch. Failure is often the float switch, not the direct switch seldom used. If wired parallel the cause of a failure may affect more than one.

 

[motion30]

Bilge switch failure has me worried too.
Has anyone ever tried wiring switches in parallel in order to have redundant switches if one fails? Wouldn't be hard to do.
Periodic testing to make sure both switches are working would be easy too[/


three of my failures have been the switch in the on position which burns up the bilge pump itself I don't think switches in parallel would have help this situation

 

[HeadedToTexas]

Our Mariner 37 has separate float switches on our three bilge pumps. They need routine cleaning, but seem reliable.

 

[firstbase]

Anyone have experience with "Water Witch" bilge pumps switches? I have two of them someone gave me but I"ve never installed them.

 

[HeadedToTexas]

The Water Witch seems to have developed a poor reputation, though I can not understand why nor find any current evidence of problems. I suspect their product was perceived or even sold as requiring no maintenance. If you never clean the contacts and they become coated with bilge scunge, oil or bacterial slime, then you have a maintenance problem, not a defective product.

I have no connection to Water Witch, but I would sure like them to work for my boat when I eventually replace the float switches.

 

[Barrie]

Thanks all for your response. To be clear it was the float switch that failed not the pump. No bleach, just water. But these switches are suppose to be sealed.
Can't get the suggested other switches in Canada. Any links appreciated.
Think i will go with old faithful from the cottage. LOL

 

[Boatcrazy]

FWIW...We use 3 water witch switches in our system. We have a deep bilge, so I mounted the primary pump on the bottom of a PVC "L". then attached that pumps output to the 2nd PVC"L", and attached the water witch switch to that "L". I added a 3rd "L", with a backup pump and a dedicated water witch switch, and then a Johnson Hi Water alarm higher up that tree. All 3 "L"s are zip-tied together, along with the wires, and the discharge hoses attach to the top of the respective "L". I pull the system out 1/year to clean, and have had no issues/problems for the past 8 or 9 years. I also added a Bilge Pump counter (by Water Witch!) to the primary(bottom) pump. Makes it easy to monitor how many times the pump runs. I'm a fan of the Water Witch switch...will never buy another float sw again! But you do need to keep them a little clean(an oil coating will not let them work normally, from my experience).

 

[bikeandboat]

I have seen just about every switch made. I use Ultra.

 

[firstbase]

FWIW...We use 3 water witch switches in our system. We have a deep bilge, so I mounted the primary pump on the bottom of a PVC "L". then attached that pumps output to the 2nd PVC"L", and attached the water witch switch to that "L". I added a 3rd "L", with a backup pump and a dedicated water witch switch, and then a Johnson Hi Water alarm higher up that tree. All 3 "L"s are zip-tied together, along with the wires, and the discharge hoses attach to the top of the respective "L". I pull the system out 1/year to clean, and have had no issues/problems for the past 8 or 9 years. I also added a Bilge Pump counter (by Water Witch!) to the primary(bottom) pump. Makes it easy to monitor how many times the pump runs. I'm a fan of the Water Witch switch...will never buy another float sw again! But you do need to keep them a little clean(an oil coating will not let them work normally, from my experience).

Do you happen to have any pics of that setup? I'm struggling with understanding!

 

[bgillroy]

There are reliable solid state puck size compld tly sealed 12 vdc switches that last indefiantly. I havnt installed those old mechanical float switches in at least 15 years.

 

[Mobcat]

In my experience the Rule electronic float switches and the Rule low profile all in one electronic float switch pump are garbage and very unreliable and can be completely covered with water and simply won’t turn on some times. When I bought them I was hoping electronic sensor switches could fix the problem of float switches, but to say I am disappointed in the modern electronic equivalent would be one of the biggest understatements in boating, they are simply useless and boats will sink because of them never ever ever count on one as your bilge pump and even there ability to self prime is very very questionable at times I once let one run for 12hrs covered in water and it wouldn’t self prime they get a air bubble caught in the pump impeller housing that’s if they turn on in the first place at high water, I would imagine these modern units would be a disaster for rule and open them up to major liability for selling a faulty product that is just so important for the boating fraternity and what really gets me is that they obviously didn’t test these in the real world prior to realising them to market how stupid is that !!!!!! Pull em out crew and replace them if you have them before you learn about them the hard way like I have !!!!!!

 

[HeadedToTexas]

There are reliable solid state puck size compld tly sealed 12 vdc switches that last indefiantly. I havnt installed those old mechanical float switches in at least 15 years.

Specifically?

 

[Boatcrazy]

Sorry Firstbase....no pics. It's very simple...take a straight piece(as long as needed to reach the bottom of your bilge plus a little) of 3/4" pvc pipe, glue a 90* ell on it, then another straight piece of 7"-*', or as long/short as your want. Drill a couple of small holes in it, remove the bottom of your pump, drill a couple of matching holes in it, then bolt the 2 together & snap the pump back on its base-the pump is mounted. Do the same thing again, only slide a short piece of hose on the short pvc pipe, then onto the pump discharge. Ziptie them together, side-by-side, attach the switch and the wires, and lower it into your bilge. Attach the discharge hose to your thru-hull to the top end on the pvc pipe (or-add a 90*/45*ell and then the discharge hose), as needed-and it's done!

 

[Thermo]

Bilge switch failure has me worried too.
Has anyone ever tried wiring switches in parallel in order to have redundant switches if one fails? Wouldn't be hard to do.
Periodic testing to make sure both switches are working would be easy too[/


three of my failures have been the switch in the on position which burns up the bilge pump itself I don't think switches in parallel would have help this situation

Yes! I three bilges have have installed a traditional float switch on the bilge floor, then a magnetic level switch ( cheap on Amazon) about 4” above. If the lower one fails while I am off the boat, the upper should work. I also install an alarm float switch with two screamingly loud sounders (with 2 9v batteries for independent power) at both the helm and at the electrical panel in the saloon.

Yes, I have had a Rule failure, so that’s why the over-engineering.

 

[ProMaritime]

Use the solid-state water level detectors to activate you bilge pumps. I don't Float switches and pumps with built-in float switches are worse. Thank way you get to replace two items rather than just one.

I have two solid-state level detectors, both of which automatically activate their separate bilge pumps. One failure in 30 years.

 

[Simi 60]

Our bilge pump switch never sees water.
Switch is up high, PVC tube with float on bottom pushes up inside loose PVC tube to activate switch.

Counter is a $15 totalizer bought off eBay connected to the circuit.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/351815654481?hash=item51e9d8dc51:g:OWEAAOSw0UdXuH~G
.

 

[fgarriso]

https://www.spxflow.com/

I have used them for over 10yrs and will not use anything else.

 

[Max1]

Bilge switch failure has me worried too.
Has anyone ever tried wiring switches in parallel in order to have redundant switches if one fails? Wouldn't be hard to do.
Periodic testing to make sure both switches are working would be easy too[/


three of my failures have been the switch in the on position which burns up the bilge pump itself I don't think switches in parallel would have help this situation

Sorry for the confusion, I understand your problem that your switches fail in the "on" position. But I was replying to the OP's concern about his switches not coming on and having his boat sink.(in red, below)

RULE-A-MATIC plus float switch failed again. Made in China. Installed 2016 but less than 3 years of real-time, summertime operation in a relatively dry bilge. Fresh water boat. This float switch is what is keeping you from possibly sinking! Anyone suggest a better brand? These things are not cheap.
I cut it open to see inside and the contacts are steel and the spring is rusty. Looks like a bad factory seal. Guess the days of mercury switches are gone. See picture.
Barrie

 

[Max1]

Why?
Each bilge pump should have a switch direct bypassing the float automatic switch. Failure is often the float switch, not the direct switch seldom used. If wired parallel the cause of a failure may affect more than one.

Hi
Sorry for the confusion. The OP was complaining that his float switch was failing, thus preventing his boat from automatic bilge operation.
I am not talking about a bypass switch to the float. I was merely suggesting that a second float switch could be installed in parallel with the first float switch so that if one float switch fails (and does not turn on), the other float switch will.

I see Thermo has the same idea as me. That is what I am talking about

Yes! I three bilges have have installed a traditional float switch on the bilge floor, then a magnetic level switch ( cheap on Amazon) about 4” above. If the lower one fails while I am off the boat, the upper should work. I also install an alarm float switch with two screamingly loud sounders (with 2 9v batteries for independent power) at both the helm and at the electrical panel in the saloon.

Yes, I have had a Rule failure, so that’s why the over-engineering.