Finger Anode Issues

[yarradeen]

Greetings all

I have pulled my genset cooler for a clean and scale. First time for me to do this and looks like the first time ever. (Mase 6.5KV 2006 Model with 550hours) My question is the finger anodes from factory are un tapered and seal with a copper seal and are made from stainless. I know this because unknown to me the cooler has anodes at both ends. The one end is in-accessible so still had the factory plug. The other unit has been replaced with a taper style. I assume BSP. This obviously binds up before reaching the end of the thread.

Is this an issue? Will it seal over time? I assume using sealing is not a good thing as it may insulate the anode?

I actually ordered some replace anodes that come with caps from the mase distributor in AU but was sent tapered units. They say that this is ok.

Thanks in advance

 

[O C Diver]

Nothing wrong with using sealant. When you complete the installation, use an ohm meter to measure resistance between the pencil anode plug and the housing it screws into. Normally you will have near zero resistance. If you don't, you may have to redo it.

If you want to use the original plug, most zinc pencil anodes screw into the plug. Take the old plugs and soak them in acid (if memory serves me) to dissolve the remnants of the old anode.

The aluminum anodes I use aren't threaded into the plug, they are cast onto a stainless steel wire that is part of the plug.

Ted

 

[kapnd]

I always re-use the plugs, the old zinc is easily melted out with a propane torch, and replacement zincs are cheap.
Carefully measure the available depth behind the plug, as some zincs may bottom out before the plug is seated tight, resulting in the zinc breaking off.
The length can be trimmed with a hacksaw.
BTW, those pics are horrifying! It’s a wonder the motor hasn’t fried.