Engine start

[long-cours.62]

With our former boat engine (all "old fashion" ) after , say, 2 week or more of no running our engine , before start them we "put back" oil pressure in .
For example on our 6.354 Perkins I pull the stop on injection pump and run the starter until get my oil pressure.
On bigger engine you could have manual or electric pump to restore the oil pressure BEFORE starting engine.
I like this and do always that when my engine was stopped more than 8/10 days ( like I flush the raw water line with fresh water or in cold area with special mix)
BUT the question is : witch way I can use to do that with my C12 ?
No manual stop can be pulled, if use in same time ....start and stop button oups ! I am afraid by the result

Except fit an "auxiliary pressure" pump ( sorry for my "english" !) I don't see any solution . If someone have a solution thanks, because I really don't like start my engine after a
more or less long period of stop without put oil pressure before the start. Like I don't like start engine without "balance" them before but It is not possible any more with actual engine ( for example with older Baudouin " generation you can "open" the pressure in cylinder turn freely the engine to check they turn freely before start them.)

 

[long-cours.62]

Just to illustrate , it is NOT , the same system but the same principle:
https://www.ms-motorservice.com/int/fr/technipedia/mettre-le-moteur-sous-pression-d'huile-1382/

 

[rslifkin]

Pre-lube is a good thing, but realistically, until you get into very large engines the reduction in startup wear isn't huge as oil circulates fast enough on startup. Unless you're putting a massive number of start / stop cycles on the engines or they're sitting for long periods (much longer than a couple of weeks) where there will be very little oil film left on anything then I wouldn't worry much about it.

If you really want to do something, a pre-lube pump like you mentioned is probably the easiest answer. And technically it's better than cranking with the starter to build pressure, as the pump builds pressure before any mechanical parts start moving.

 

[long-cours.62]

Pre-lube is a good thing, but realistically, until you get into very large engines the reduction in startup wear isn't huge as oil circulates fast enough on startup. Unless you're putting a massive number of start / stop cycles on the engines or they're sitting for long periods (much longer than a couple of weeks) where there will be very little oil film left on anything then I wouldn't worry much about it.

If you really want to do something, a pre-lube pump like you mentioned is probably the easiest answer. And technically it's better than cranking with the starter to build pressure, as the pump builds pressure before any mechanical parts start moving.

Yes the pre lub pump is the best solution.
But for example even on the Perkins manual they wrote if stopped more than 2 weeks do the "prelub" by pulling the stop and run the starter until oil pressure come up..
Sure in this case also turn before pressure oil but without the stress of the running condition.
And it is probably a "déformation professionelle" because I worked on ...ship

 

[rslifkin]

Yes the pre lub pump is the best solution.
But for example even on the Perkins manual they wrote if stopped more than 2 weeks do the "prelub" by pulling the stop and run the starter until oil pressure come up..
Sure in this case also turn before pressure oil but without the stress of the running condition.
And it is probably a "déformation professionelle" because I worked on ...ship

It's definitely not a bad idea to do when there's an easy way to do it (like on the Perkins). But I've seen enough engines last a very long time without prelube that I've learned not to worry much about it.

 

[long-cours.62]

It's definitely not a bad idea to do when there's an easy way to do it (like on the Perkins). But I've seen enough engines last a very long time without prelube that I've learned not to worry much about it.

You are right , but I worry about ...all ( it is probably why I got heart attack !)
It is also why we are looking for a much, much basic boat where I will not worry about : hydraulic, crane, gangway, generator, aircon, water-maker (not sure for the watermaker :- ) etc because : no more all this stuff (or only the manual basic one ) And stay close at possible of K.I.S.S. !

 

[High Wire]

On small engines I have heard of plumbing a pre-lube pump into the gallery at the oil pressure gauge. Never actually seen one though. Large engines, yes. Problem is where to pull suction from the oil sump without causing an extra failure point and an additional oil filter.

 

[slowgoesit]

Archie, a similar system to what you describe was marketed in the 80's under the name, I believe, of "Turbo Saver". It worked like this:

A pre-oiler pump was installed, pulling oil out of the pan, and plumbed into the oil deliver system. A temperature sensor was installed down stream of the turbo, and an electrical connection made to your existing low oil pressure sensor.

When you turned the key, the pre-oiler pump was energized, but the starter engagement circuit would not get power until the oil pressure sensor registered oil pressure (oil was flowing through the engine), then the starter engaged, and the engine started normally, thus ensureing the moving parts were lubricated with fresh oil before putting a demand on them.

Upon shut-down, you turned the key off, (or pulled the manual fuel shut-off, if on a boat, and so equipped) and the engine stopped, but the pre-oiler pump was energized, pumping oil, and it continued to run until the oil downstream of the turbo cooled to a predetermined, or preset oil temperature, as which time the pre-oiler pump shut off. This prevented "coking" of the bearings in a oil lubricated and cooled turbocharger, and greatly extended the service life of the turbo. Note: This last feature can just as easily be served by just letting the engine run at idle speed for several minutes after using the turbo (running the engine hard), and before shut-down, but many people won't do that . . .

They didn't gain widespread acceptance in the United States, as people here wanted the engine to start IMMEDIATELY, and the 5 to 10 second wait while the engine "pre-oiled" was deemed to be unacceptable.

 

[Lepke]

What you're looking for is a hydraulic accumulator. They're often found on remote engines and as a portable unit for race cars. An accumulator is a cylinder with a piston. Looking a little like a hydraulic cylinder, on one side of the piston is oil and the other side either a spring or air pressure.
When charged with oil a valve is opened that charges the engine oil system, the engine is started leaving the valve open. When operating pressure is reached the valve is closed because the accumulator has recharged.
The valve can be manual or electric solenoid. With relays and delays it can be automatic. Turn the key, when desired psi is reached engine starter is engaged. When the engine reaches operating rpm the valve closes.

 

[long-cours.62]

What you're looking for is a hydraulic accumulator. They're often found on remote engines and as a portable unit for race cars. An accumulator is a cylinder with a piston. Looking a little like a hydraulic cylinder, on one side of the piston is oil and the other side either a spring or air pressure.
When charged with oil a valve is opened that charges the engine oil system, the engine is started leaving the valve open. When operating pressure is reached the valve is closed because the accumulator has recharged.
The valve can be manual or electric solenoid. With relays and delays it can be automatic. Turn the key, when desired psi is reached engine starter is engaged. When the engine reaches operating rpm the valve closes.

Sorry you miss understand, look at the answer of Slowgoesit : it is what I am looking for.
The starter ypu ask we had that on all our lifeboat, as you wrote it iis spring or oil presure accumulator
you can see one dfor sale here :

 

[Brooksie]

I have a Moroso 3qt preluber on my boat (and on my car that went 500K miles b/4 I totaled it). It is simple, cheap, easy to install, and pre-lubes your engine b/4 every time you start it. No pumps and only one hose into your oiling system. Check it out.

 

[long-cours.62]

Thanks I will check

 

[TNBrett]

You could also achieve what you did before, by adding a switch to the starter solenoid. if you cranked the engine with no power to the ECM, it would not try to start, only crank. your oil pressure gauge may not register, but you could add a mechanical gauge as well. perhaps put the gauge and additional button on a panel in the engine room, and that could be part of your engine room checks.

 

[Wildbill]

We have “prelube “ pumps on each of our twin Detroit 453 engines, which double as the oil change pumps when valves are closed. We run the prelube pumps for 25 seconds and build 20 pounds of oil pressure before we start our engines daily, if we’ve been sitting longer we run them for 50 seconds to ensure all surfaces have adequate oil pressure. These are in a Hatteras 42 LRC, can’t tell you if they were factory or aftermarket

 

[ronobrien]

On small engines I have heard of plumbing a pre-lube pump into the gallery at the oil pressure gauge. Never actually seen one though. Large engines, yes. Problem is where to pull suction from the oil sump without causing an extra failure point and an additional oil filter.

If you had a drain line at the drain plug you could run that to a pump and then on to an oil galley. Then swap the out line on the pump to a drain bucket.when changing the oil