Docking after 2 years of GB 36 ownership; Morse engine controls

[Ertyqway]

Weebles posted the definitive answer to your question above, so I won't elaborate on that too much other than to say: follow his advice.

I will say sailboats and powerboats handle radically differently, just as single- vs twin-engine powerboats also handle very differently. You need to unlearn old habits and learn new ones. The only way to master your boat is to practice maneuvering it ... A LOT.

We hired a power squadron captain to teach us how to drive a bigger twin when we moved up, and it was money and time very well spent. One method he used with us was what he called "Worrying the Buoy." Take the boat out into an open area where there is a float buoy or mooring ball and plenty of room, and then practice approaching and touching it with different parts of the boat in different ways. For instance: approach head-on, then swing to port and gently touch the buoy with with the starboard stern corner, then move off without overswinging. It's just a float, so if you miss or hit it too hard or whatever, it doesn't matter. Try again. That kind of thing. An afternoon of that, and your confidence level on handling the boat and placing it exactly where you want it will rise dramatically.

As for docking, just take it slow and be patient. Don't go any faster than you are willing to the hit the dock, and you'll be fine. Pulling into a slip is just "hitting the dock" safely on purpose anyway, so you actually WANT to. Just in a controlled way. I usually try to line the boat up on the slip at essentially a dead halt before pulling in, as an exercise in precision handling. Place the vessel where you want it in stages. Not always easy if conditions are un-calm, but a good habit anyway. This is actually much easier with twin-engine power boats than sailboats once you get the hang of it.

Oh, and always have a line on a mid cleat in case the wind or currents are pushing you around. That mid line can get you secured very quickly in a challenging docking situation, in ways a bow or stern line can't.

Good luck! Keep us updated on your progress!

 

[Dennis C]

Try installing a battery operated camera you can connect to your ipad via a hot spot from your phone. Locate the camera so you can see the stern.

 

[Jeff F]

For some reason, prop walk is most pronounced at the moment the reverse thrust stops the boat.

I'd agree, and can offer an explanation for those who may not have thought about it. When there is flow over the rudder it provides a lot of resistance to going sideways. When the boat stops the rudder can easily be dragged sideways through the water.

It's true in reverse as well. From a stop the prop walk is very pronounced but seems to become less as soon as the boat gathers way in reverse.

I think you've offered really good practical advice above. Good discussion.

 

[Marco Flamingo]

I think you've offered really good practical advice above. Good discussion.

Is that allowed here?

 

[ranger58sb]

Thanks, Chris. I see you're in the Chesapeake. We were in Philadelphia from 2015-2023, and I had a Pearson 33 berthed first at Havre de Grace (with about 2 feet of clearance for my nast under the bridge) and then on the Bohemia River by Chesapeake City. Loved exploring the Chesapeake Bay and its tributaries.

Yep, it's a great boating area. We've been to HdG several times over the years...

Your location info is silent; you could fill all that in so folks could have more background about your posts...

-Chris

 

[TrawlerDavid]

Yep, it's a great boating area. We've been to HdG several times over the years...

Your location info is silent; you could fill all that in so folks could have more background about your posts...

-Chris

Just updated my location and other information. I often wear my Sassafras River shirt, although no one on the West Coast knows where it is. We visited the Naval Academy and spent time in Annapolis-great place to keep a boat.

 

[Moonfish]

Great thread with some equally great advice. Of course my all time favorite boating adage is "always approach the dock at the speed you wish to hit it."

I dock from the lower helm 99% of the time, as I have side doors port and starboard which allow me to quickly throw a line if necessary.

And if you are looking for an instructor, Captain Trevor MacLachlan at Seattle Seafaring has a sterling reputation and comes highly recommended.

 

[rgano]

I find it difficult to add anything to the great instructional comments above, but I do have extensive experience in both a single engine GB36 and a twin GB42. I understand the problem with perspective the OP has from the flying bridge when conning into a slip bow first as he described in post #1. I normally backed my twin GB42 into its slip and well remember the problem of keeping the boat's centerline oriented to the lay of the slip when I decided I needed to moor bow-in. Backing in while conning from the flying bridge while facing aft gave me a clear view of both corners of the stern and the ends of the slip. Going in bow first while conning from the forward 1/4 of the boat, whether from upper or lower helm was just harder for me than backing in. I actually found it less difficult to gain proper perspective when mooring at an alongside tie than when going bow first into a slip with structure (pilings or pier) on either side. If there is background beyond the end of the slip you are entering pick something back there to compare its motion relative to something at the center of the back of the slip to let you know which way you may be drifting, and stand in the center of the boat looking over the burgee pole on the bow to ensure your centerline is aligned with the slip. If you are drifting one way or another due to wind and current, head on in at an angle which steadies that background relative motion to zero and use the twin engines to twist the boat to align it just before the bow enters between the outer ends of the slip while also watching that burgee pole (multi-tasker are we?). Have the first mate near the bow with a spring line to either hand to a dockhand or to loop over a pier cleat. Handling that line from forward of the amidships cleat gives the line handlers time to properly attach the spring as the boat moves forward into the slip with the spring line ending up leading aft from the amidships cleat. Once the forward motion is halted and with tension on the spring, you can idle forward with the engine on the same side as the spring to bring the hull to the pier using the rudders to enhance the twist as desired by throwing the helm away from the pier.

As a destroyer officer, I once won the Pacific Fleet ship handling award, but honestly, handing my GB was a very different world, certainly enhanced by my prior Navy training, but still quite different and always a real joy.

 

[seighlor]

I'm another that has made the transition from sail to trawler. The comments offered in this post are truly great and will only add that, in my experience, the upper helm station is greatly preferred because of the visibility it offers.

 

[TrawlerDavid]

Depending on which mechanical control you have, there may be a clutch detent kit available for it. Also on some controls the "feel" of the detent is adjustable.
This is for the Morse Twin S Control, there are other kits for other controls:

Teleflex Marine 022328 | Fisheries Supply

Save More on Your Teleflex Marine #022328 CLUTCH DETENT KIT S / TWIN S at Fisheries Supply. Excellent Customer Service, Ready to Ship. Marine Supplies Since 1928!

www.fisheriessupply.com

View attachment 166836

I was able to locate 2 of these on the east coast and have them sent out. Now installed and much improved shifting clarity.

 

[TrawlerDavid]

I find it difficult to add anything to the great instructional comments above, but I do have extensive experience in both a single engine GB36 and a twin GB42. I understand the problem with perspective the OP has from the flying bridge when conning into a slip bow first as he described in post #1. I normally backed my twin GB42 into its slip and well remember the problem of keeping the boat's centerline oriented to the lay of the slip when I decided I needed to moor bow-in. Backing in while conning from the flying bridge while facing aft gave me a clear view of both corners of the stern and the ends of the slip. Going in bow first while conning from the forward 1/4 of the boat, whether from upper or lower helm was just harder for me than backing in. I actually found it less difficult to gain proper perspective when mooring at an alongside tie than when going bow first into a slip with structure (pilings or pier) on either side. If there is background beyond the end of the slip you are entering pick something back there to compare its motion relative to something at the center of the back of the slip to let you know which way you may be drifting, and stand in the center of the boat looking over the burgee pole on the bow to ensure your centerline is aligned with the slip. If you are drifting one way or another due to wind and current, head on in at an angle which steadies that background relative motion to zero and use the twin engines to twist the boat to align it just before the bow enters between the outer ends of the slip while also watching that burgee pole (multi-tasker are we?). Have the first mate near the bow with a spring line to either hand to a dockhand or to loop over a pier cleat. Handling that line from forward of the amidships cleat gives the line handlers time to properly attach the spring as the boat moves forward into the slip with the spring line ending up leading aft from the amidships cleat. Once the forward motion is halted and with tension on the spring, you can idle forward with the engine on the same side as the spring to bring the hull to the pier using the rudders to enhance the twist as desired by throwing the helm away from the pier.

As a destroyer officer, I once won the Pacific Fleet ship handling award, but honestly, handing my GB was a very different world, certainly enhanced by my prior Navy training, but still quite different and always a real joy.

Thanks for the comments and wisdom. I’m quite far away from winning any ship handling award and current goal is the competency award. I’m planning to spend a day practicing docking, perhaps with an instructor. I am enjoying learning the skills and find it quite different from piloting our former sailboats. Just back from a successful trip to the Canadian Gulf islands. And thanks for your service.

 

[BruceK]

,,.. I’m planning to spend a day practicing docking, perhaps with an instructor. I am enjoying learning the skills and find it quite different from piloting our former sailboats. Just back from a successful trip to the Canadian Gulf islands.

Now you know what the gears are doing, an instructor in for a couple of hours is a good plan. You likely have the skills, now put them together, know what action best responds to the ever fluid situation.

 

[waltcallie]

Fellow trawler owners- It is now 2 years since I purchased my 1976 GB "Innisfree", after 45 years of sailing. Just back today from a cruise in the Gulf Islands to Saltspring and Galiano, and we have quickly come to love the boat. After 2 years of ownership, I am feeling much more comfortable about piloting a trawler, and the engine maintenance and teak varnishing that is part of the experience. The area that I still find most challenging is docking. On my sailboats, from the rear cockit I could see the entire boat, how close I was to the dock, and was usually able to bring the boat right to the dock so crew could easily step off. After several dockings during this last trip, it is clear I have not mastered it with a trawler. I am comfortable with maneuvering Innisfree in idle using jsut the gear shifts, and can successfully and confidently get her in front of the slip. But when I start the turn, from the flybridge where I am piloting I have no spatial awareness of exactly where the dock is with relation to the rear of the boat 30 feet behind me. I am either too close and need to be pushed off by helpful dockmates, or 5 feet off the dock and too far for my wife to use the loop on the boathook to pull us in. II think I have the bow centered in the slip, but then the stern drifts off and I can't see it happening. Also, I have found that "kicking the port engine in reverse for a few seconds" does not kick the stern to starboard and the dock, but rather seems to just pull me out of the slip. Although I generally pilot from the flybridge when leaving the slip, as I have a much better vantage point to make sure the stern doesn't go too far into the causeway, I'm thinking that piloting for docking may be easier from the lower helm station as that way I can see the dock and get a better idea of where the boat is in relation to the dock. But the trade off is reduced visibility while coming in. I'm interested in whether those of you with trawlers that have both lower and upper helms generally pilot from the lower helm for docking and how that works. And of course, if anyone has guidance on how to refine docking skills on a trawler they will be welcomed.
A related issue is that the Morse controllers for the throttle and gear shifts do not have a clear detent stop in neutral. While I have figured out visually the one spot where the engine(s) will remain in neutral, a half inch past that spot and I'm still in reverse and moving backwards after stopping the boat. A big problem for my crew who are trying to cleat the line. I'm pretty sure that the Morse controllers are original from 1976. The prior owners all took excellent care of the boat, but my guess is that the Morse controllers were not routinely cleaned and lubricated. That's the next task on y boat to-do list, and interested if any others with 1976 or similar vintage Morse controllers have had issues with the detent for neutral and if maintenance fixed this, or a new controller was the remedy.
Thanks, as always.

Photo of Innisfree on recent cruise attached.

Hi there, I recently purchased a 1982 38' Californian and have the same controls. After much struggling and piddling and embarrassing docking and then lubricating and searching every forum on the web I have come to the following conclusions: the Morse controls themselves are brilliantly engineered and very simple in operation. If you were to disconnect the cables I can almost guarantee they will be smooth as silk. 99% of the trouble I was experiencing was cable related. Once I replaced the cables it was smoother than any control I have ever operated, electric or mechanical. Good luck and take care

 

[TrawlerDavid]

Now you know what the gears are doing, an instructor in for a couple of hours is a good plan. You likely have the skills, now put them together, know what action best responds to the ever fluid situation.

 

[TrawlerDavid]

Weebles posted the definitive answer to your question above, so I won't elaborate on that too much other than to say: follow his advice.

I will say sailboats and powerboats handle radically differently, just as single- vs twin-engine powerboats also handle very differently. You need to unlearn old habits and learn new ones. The only way to master your boat is to practice maneuvering it ... A LOT.

We hired a power squadron captain to teach us how to drive a bigger twin when we moved up, and it was money and time very well spent. One method he used with us was what he called "Worrying the Buoy." Take the boat out into an open area where there is a float buoy or mooring ball and plenty of room, and then practice approaching and touching it with different parts of the boat in different ways. For instance: approach head-on, then swing to port and gently touch the buoy with with the starboard stern corner, then move off without overswinging. It's just a float, so if you miss or hit it too hard or whatever, it doesn't matter. Try again. That kind of thing. An afternoon of that, and your confidence level on handling the boat and placing it exactly where you want it will rise dramatically.

As for docking, just take it slow and be patient. Don't go any faster than you are willing to the hit the dock, and you'll be fine. Pulling into a slip is just "hitting the dock" safely on purpose anyway, so you actually WANT to. Just in a controlled way. I usually try to line the boat up on the slip at essentially a dead halt before pulling in, as an exercise in precision handling. Place the vessel where you want it in stages. Not always easy if conditions are un-calm, but a good habit anyway. This is actually much easier with twin-engine power boats than sailboats once you get the hang of it.

Oh, and always have a line on a mid cleat in case the wind or currents are pushing you around. That mid line can get you secured very quickly in a challenging docking situation, in ways a bow or stern line can't.

Good luck! Keep us updated on your progress!

Update- After replacing all of the Morse cables and adding a detent plate to the lower helm, I am now able to confidently know by feel when I'm in neutral, forward and reverse. Makes a big difference in being able to concentrate on maneuvers and not on the visual location of the shift levers. My docking has improved dramatically, although still have more to learn and practice. With multiple dockings in new ports this past summer with no damage to any boat or person, and only mild damage to my ego, I consider the season a success. Thanks again!

 

[ktdtx]

Sounds like you have accomplished what most of us have...eliminated obstacles to gaining proficiency and improved and gained confidence with repetitions and practice. I'm also sure that you have experienced that every attempt at docking is a little different than all the previous ones and your practice has enabled you to comfortably handle all the little variations.

Go forth and enjoy!

 

[DennisB1]

I have a GB49 classic bigger and heavier than the 36 but similar in design and handling.
Not mentioned is having adequate fenders on the landing side. Near the stern I use a 24" round fender to protect the swim step. With adequate fenders you can swing into float without fear of damage to the boat or dock.
The other comment is on the Morse controls. There are new push pull cables that are PTFE lined that are lower friction than the old morse cables. Lower friction along with a detent as described in earlier posts would make sensing the detent easier.

I have what I find as a useful tool is a rudder angle indicator at both helms. You can easily check to see if you are in a neutral position on the rudders. I have hydraulic steering, and the wheel is not useful for rudder position.

When you are secured to the float, with bow & stern lines along with the spring lines, start your engines running at idle rpm and place the controls with one forward and reverse with the rudder in neutral position. With the port engine in reverse and starboard in forward the stern moves to starboard and if you do the opposite it moves to port on my boat. Also watch what happens if when you move the rudder out of the neutral position you can make the stern swing faster (another tool to use during landing or leaving the moorage. Practice this regularly so you don't have to think through the process when you are landing.
I have a bow thruster and with the use of the rudders hard over to starboard, the moves sideways to port with little forward or aft motion so a plus for the thruster. Thruster is also handy if you want to bump the bow in or out when landing.
As suggested in earlier response practice landings. Get the lines and fenders set before you land. I use a mid-ship line as the first line to secure onto the dock; this single line keeps both the bow or stern from swinging out in a side wind or current.
I have been spending a good amount of time single handing and have used both the lower helm and the fly helm with the lines ready along with assistance from someone on the float. Having a second person that can provide good guidance (with headset) along with looping or picking up the midship line is very helpful. If I have to secure line myself I use the lower helm.

Lots of good Ideas the need lots of practice.

 

[Fish53]

Kobelt.

 

[Seevee]

Lots of good replies.... a few more.

I could argue strongly to let the wife or your admiral run the boat, usually easier for the guy to throw and pull lines, and they often do it better.
AND, establish good communication, headsets, hand signals or both. (we use both).
As a rule, I'll often approach the dock from the bridge and then go below for docking where I have a starboard door to throw the line from, or preferably drape if over a cleat or piling (easy single handed).
When stern in, always from the bridge, can't see the stern from the lower helm.
NO ONE hops on or off the boat until all lines are secured, period.
+++ on the training!

 

[rslifkin]

Lots of good replies.... a few more.

I could argue strongly to let the wife or your admiral run the boat, usually easier for the guy to throw and pull lines, and they often do it better.
AND, establish good communication, headsets, hand signals or both. (we use both).
As a rule, I'll often approach the dock from the bridge and then go below for docking where I have a starboard door to throw the line from, or preferably drape if over a cleat or piling (easy single handed).
When stern in, always from the bridge, can't see the stern from the lower helm.
NO ONE hops on or off the boat until all lines are secured, period.
+++ on the training!

We've known a few couples to do it that way. We don't, but that's mostly because my wife is comfortable enough handling lines, but not as comfortable at the helm in close quarters. She can dock the boat if she needs to, but she hasn't been doing it since she was a kid like I have, so there's just less experience and confidence to go on. However, for anchoring, I do go forward and leave her at the helm.

As far as the getting off the boat, we normally plan to secure the first line from on board if possible, but depending on dock height, cleat placement, etc. that's not always an option. The admiral knows not to step off until the boat is basically stopped and close enough for an easy, safe step. No jumping, etc. If a safe step can't be made, just tell me and I'll either adjust or bail out and re-approach (and we'll potentially re-plan the docking if needed). We have good step points on the side decks, so preparing to step off doesn't involve standing on the swim platform and there are good handholds available.

 

[RickyD]

After so many great responses and instructions from our members its hard to believe I could have anything else to offer but I do. I pilot from the Sky Bridge because of visibility and the fact that my down helm has no door next to it. Not even on the other side. My buddy recently bought my same boat California 55 and he had only skippered much small fishing boats in the past. He has no down helm and he was having trouble visualizing where the dock was relative to what he could see. So I took his boat pole and stood it up on the edge of the dock so he could understand how far off he was. Of course it still takes practice. My problem is I have an end tie so I'm not practicing getting in and out of tight slips. I am concerned this may be a problem in the future. I did put a bow thruster in this boat because my first slip was in an area called hurricane gulch. If going bow in the wind hits you at about 5 o'clock. The first time I docked her it was blowing 16 - 18 and to top it off my shift linkage on the port engine needed adjustment as it was not going in and out of gear at proper times. I had help on the boat and help on the dock. It took me three or four tries to get her in. Each failure put me in jeopardy of hitting other boats. Imagine telling yourself "ok, making the turn, put the port engine in revearse, count to four then it actually goes into revearse. I start screeming, she's not going in gear. Aaaahhh. Get out Get out. Therefore the thruster was added. I'm out of that marina now and in a much quieter area and on the end tie.

 

[SteveK]

FYI. I had a looseness in one shifter and found a loose set screw shifter to shaft on bottom. Once tightened the shifter was again tight and centered in neutral.