DIY Fuel Polisher

The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

cosmo

Senior Member
Joined
May 30, 2013
Messages
107
Location
us
Vessel Name
Shear Bliss
Vessel Make
Tollycraft 44
I plan to construct a portable fuel polisher for our diesel boat. We have two-200 gallon tanks. My plan is to mount a pump, racor (racor like) filter and timer onto a board or some sort. Carry it to the boat, tap into the suction side of the tank and the reverse for the return side. When done, undo and carry the contraption home. My engine room doesn't have enough wall space to mount permanently, thus the portable factor.

My question is; when shopping for pumps, any recommendations for a 12v, self priming pump? There is quite a selection out there and I'm hoping to tap into the knowledge you all have on such a pump. I'm not seeking a fast, aggressive pump. Just slow and steady. I figure some polishing during the winter is better than no polishing at all.

Thanks!
 
Are you having a fuel contamination problem? Why do you feel the need for polishing?
 
Haven't had a problem. I guess I 'think' I am being proactive by doing this? The last thing I want is a clogged filter or water in my fuel. It doesn't seem like a big expense as I research this and can't hurt (fingers crossed).
 
Is there a reason that you need to polish fuel? If it's because of growth in the tank, or the dead bugs caused by using BioBore or some other way of killing them, then it might not solve the problem over the winter when you're not using the boat. In my experience, the goop falls to the bottom of the fuel tanks and stays there as most fuel tanks are built with a pick-up stand pipe that is a few inches above the bottom of the tank. (A serious error in my opinion)

I don't know your engine or consumption, but when running your engine at cruising RPM it is returning 2 to 3 times as much fuel as it is burning. So, your engine maybe doing a pretty good job of polishing. I plumbed in a polisher and then realized that I never needed to use it once I'd replaced the fuel tanks and kept the water out. EG: I have not had to change the Racor filter in the four years since we installed the new fuel tanks. (About 900 hours of running the engine.)

I guess I'm asking: What problem are you solving?
 
For us, historically our boat doesn’t get a lot of use during the winter months (we are skiers). So, if I can run some fuel through the polisher during the winter, what is the harm?
 
For us, historically our boat doesn’t get a lot of use during the winter months (we are skiers). So, if I can run some fuel through the polisher during the winter, what is the harm?
Well, if you leave it on and go skiing and something breaks or leaks.... you end up with a bilge full of fuel, a leak of fuel out a drain (if you're on the hard), what happens if the pump fails and gets hot? etc....

Before I add complexity to a boat I own, I decide: "Is the juice is worth the squeeze." Meaning is the benefit of the complexity is better/worse than what happens without the complexity. Based on this, I'd suggest that you not bother until there is a problem. But, that's just my opinion - worth what you paid for it - zero.
 
If it were me, I would replace the Racor separator with a 1000 series. Then I would tee the line going to the engine. Add a fuel pump on the tee, and return the fuel to the tank.

I did this on a friend's boat. The bigger separator hurts nothing. You can either polish fuel with the engine, the electric pump, or both. He normally runs both while underway.

The pump we used was a simple plunger style Facet pump with I believe a 50 GPH flow rate.

Ted
 
OC Diver, that's close to what I was thinking. I already have a 1000 on each main. I would mount a separate racor on the 'polisher board.' I just don't think I have room to mount an additional pump. If I do, I am taking away room to move around and be able to work or check on things.

Thank you for the info on Facet. I'll research them. I basically just need a pump and they might be what I am looking for.
 
Years ago PMM had a fuel polishing article every few months and made everyone afraid that they would have huge fuel contamination issues. But the reality is that it isn’t the big boogie man that people fear it is. I have never had a fuel contamination issue in all my 56 years of boating. Maybe I am just really lucky but I think that fuel quality is pretty good these days. I have never put a polishing system on any of my boats. Again maybe just luck…. But I do take care of my boats and am careful where I fuel up.
 
Interesting responses. I am of the opinion “why wouldn’t you have a fuel polisher”. The number one reason for engine failure is fuel related. Ive had DIY fuel polishing on both my boats along with bypass oil filters for mains and generators. Never heard of any issues with fuel and oil being to clean. On my Manatee I had a very simple system. Racor 1000, Walbro fuel pump and a digital timer. Talking to the new owner, the Walbro pump just gave out after 15 years. It was running for 6 hours once a week for the single 300 gallon tank.
OP: You should rethink the portable fuel polisher. The fuel polisher is most effective when you’re moving and the bad stuff (if present) gets stirred up from the bottom of your tanks.
 
OC Diver, that's close to what I was thinking. I already have a 1000 on each main. I would mount a separate racor on the 'polisher board.' I just don't think I have room to mount an additional pump. If I do, I am taking away room to move around and be able to work or check on things.

Thank you for the info on Facet. I'll research them. I basically just need a pump and they might be what I am looking for.
What engines do you have and do you know the lift pump flow rate?

Do you have one tank or two?

Ted
 
My boat partner built this setup. Mounts on a hand truck and lifts off and onto boat near tanks when in use. Works great. Use it as an annual maintenance program.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20240811_135826405.jpg
    IMG_20240811_135826405.jpg
    161.1 KB · Views: 46
  • IMG_20240811_112415801.jpg
    IMG_20240811_112415801.jpg
    127.2 KB · Views: 47
Most boaters are going to gain nothing by fuel polishing. Most fuel polishing set ups are over kill. Most of us anre overly conservative so over kill by 10 is better than under kill by .1.

If you want to set up a fuel polishing rig you could start with a remote fuel filter kit, $30 on Amazon, includes the filter an add an electric fuel pump for $20.

As OC said, just T it in.
 
Important to appreciate that water and crap sits the in the bottom of the tank often below the pickup. With the polishing rig I posted the pickup reaches the bottom of the tank. I think it's not an overkill to get the very bottom of tank clean.
 
Fuel tanks have extensive baffles to control fuel sloshing around. So lot of hidden corners and compartments that a low flow pump ( I think a Walbro is about 50-60 gallons an hour) will not reach/clean. The pick up tube height will prevent pulling whatever you are trying to get off the bottom from getting circulated and filtered.

So the flow will find a path of least resistance in the tank which will likely be a minimal area and leave the rest untouched.

Best strategy for to avoid fuel problems is to buy from high volume sellers, maximize fuel turnover, and have good filters.

Put a system in if it brings you joy but, in my opinion you will not accomplish much.
 
Interesting responses. I am of the opinion “why wouldn’t you have a fuel polisher”. The number one reason for engine failure is fuel related. Ive had DIY fuel polishing on both my boats along with bypass oil filters for mains and generators. Never heard of any issues with fuel and oil being to clean. On my Manatee I had a very simple system. Racor 1000, Walbro fuel pump and a digital timer. Talking to the new owner, the Walbro pump just gave out after 15 years. It was running for 6 hours once a week for the single 300 gallon tank.
OP: You should rethink the portable fuel polisher. The fuel polisher is most effective when you’re moving and the bad stuff (if present) gets stirred up from the bottom of your tanks.
Fuel tanks have extensive baffles to control fuel sloshing around. So lot of hidden corners and compartments that a low flow pump ( I think a Walbro is about 50-60 gallons an hour) will not reach/clean. The pick up tube height will prevent pulling whatever you are trying to get off the bottom from getting circulated and filtered.

So the flow will find a path of least resistance in the tank which will likely be a minimal area and leave the rest untouched.

Best strategy for to avoid fuel problems is to buy from high volume sellers, maximize fuel turnover, and have good filters.

Put a system in if it brings you joy but, in my opinion you will not accomplish much.
I setup my systems to pull from one end and return to the other. As stated earlier, I make a point of running the polisher while moving as this is when things get kicked up. I hold 3500 gallons of fuel, so my fuel tends to sit around for years before topping off. Obviously if you are taking on fuel regularly this is not such a big deal.
Im no science major, but I read somewhere that the act of circulating diesel helps keep it “fresh”. On a molecular level from my understanding. Once again I am referring to fuel that has been in the tanks for years. Maybe someone can elaborate on this. My recollection was from a story about fuel polishing on Washington ferries.
 
Related comments about the fuel tanks. Fortunately, most folks don't have to ever build new fuel tanks, but if you do here are some things to consider:

West system epoxy is diesel fuel approved, according to their official ap-notes. We found a vendor selling inexpensive cored carbon-fiber panels in 4x8 foot sheets 3/4" thick. We cut it up to exactly what we wanted and glassed it together making the exterior and baffles from the same sheet material. The core keeps the panels from flexing. The tank was a fraction (apx 1/3) of the steel tank it replaced and will never ever ever rust.

In the old days, fuel tanks had a pickup that extended above the bottom surface of the tank. This tradition started before we had good filters and the theory was that the water, rust, dirt, old pop-tops, and other junk would sink to the bottom and you'd collect it in that bottom inch or two of the tank below the pickup. Some even had floating pick-ups. This is a terrible idea. By contrast, we built the bottom of the tank with about a 10° slope with all bottom surfaces leading to the fuel pick-up. That way, the random stuff gets sent to the filter quickly (especially water) where it is captured fast and the bacteria don't have a chance to grow in the tank. All baffles are set at an angle to discourage small pools of fuel and stuff collecting on the up-hill side.

We built two tanks, one on each side of the boat with a 2" pipe leading across to balance the fuel when the boat is upright (it's a sail boat). The pipe is sloped down to the centerline of the boat to discourage junk from collecting in it. At the center-line of the pipe there is a 2" "X" connector with each tank pickup leading to the port and starboard legs of the "X", the top of the "X" has a reducers to correct size to provide twice the flow that the main engine, generator engine, and diesel heater all operating at once require. The bottom of the "X" has a 10" pipe attached, a reducer to a 3/8" fitting, and a valve, and 5' long length of hose.

This arrangement allows the fuel to move freely from one side of the boat to the other for two reasons. First, on a sailboat you want to put the fuel on the windward side, so we open the cross pipe before we tack and the fuel flows to the leeward tank. We the close the valve and tack the boat providing 750 lbs of fuel to be located 7' to windward to help keep the boat flat. We do the same thing with the water. This allows us to have the rough equivalent of 18 burly sailors sitting on the windward rail who don't eat, drink, or try to hit on your spouse. It makes the old girl sail far better.

As the fuel is flowing through the 2" "X" on each tack, the heavy stuff drops into the lower leg of the "X" and is trapped. About 4 times a year I open the valve and drain about a pint of fuel into a glass jar to inspect what I've trapped. Over 10 years, there have been about 20 very small globs of water in the sample, some tiny black dust, which must be carbon dust we didn't get out of the tanks when we built them, and that's it. Hopefully, it stays that way. We last changed the filters 5 years ago. They are showing no dirt, water, or bugs at all but after 5 years of use I thought we should take a look. For the "junk" to get past the "X", it would have to make a right turn to go directly upward, avoid falling into the trap below, and get sent to the filters. It appears that this has never happened.

Key points: You do not want a flat bottom on a fuel tank unless you're willing to get in and clean the tank. A job I don't wish on anyone. You want all bottom surfaces and plumbing to lead down to a trap from which it is easy to remove the junk as soon as it arrives. You want the fuel pick up to be far above that trap. If you can build the tanks into the boat the way steel boats do, it's wonderfully efficient as most boats aren't square and have unused space around the tanks. Finally, you do NOT want the fuel fill to sit on the deck or a seat or anywhere that water can reach it. It belongs in a locker or behind a water resistant door. The fill is where almost all the water comes from, not from the vendor of the fuel. (Although most owners blame the vendor.)
 
Yeah, make sure your "pick up" is off the drain valve on the very bottom of the tank. This is where the water and crud will be. The engine pick up tube doesn't reach to the very bottom therefore your fuel polisher will miss some of the crud.
 
If mounting dictates a flat bottom, that's fine, but an accommodation should be made for a small sump extending below that. Let the stuff collect in the sump and have the pickup draw from there so it ends up in the filters (and will also help to minimize the un-usable capacity of the tank).
 
Best strategy for to avoid fuel problems is to buy from high volume sellers, maximize fuel turnover, and have good filters.
I use to think that also.

Couple miles from Mile Hammock anchorage (Camp Lejeune, NC) was a fuel dock that did a phenomenal business between traffic on the AICW, the large commercial fishing fleet on the New River, and local commercial farming. Generally, their volume allowed them to be the cheapest fuel South of Virginia Beach.

Last time I stopped there, the Racor eventually removed 1 gallon of water in 300 of diesel. Diesel fuel dock filters only work till they're full.

Past performance isn't a guarantee of future results. Thankfully they went out of business a few years ago.

Bad fuel happened to me twice in 10 years with my trawler.

Ted
 
Yeah, make sure your "pick up" is off the drain valve on the very bottom of the tank. This is where the water and crud will be. The engine pick up tube doesn't reach to the very bottom therefore your fuel polisher will miss some of the crud.
:iagree:

My fuel polisher was plumbed into the drains of the two tanks. Probably between a cup and a pint could remain in the tanks.

I plumbed my boat so that the generator and engine pulled from the starboard tank and I fueled to the port tank. This required polishing the fuel from port to starboard every two or three cruising days, but saved me both times when I got bad fuel.

20240311_154604.jpg


Ted
 
PO installed a complex "fuel polishing" system. It even says that on the electrical panel. Before I had a chance to figure out the maze of hoses into and around the Walbro fuel pump, a diesel tank started leaking. Turns out that polishing doesn't do anything for the water/crud at the bottom of a tank. I installed inspection ports and scooped out a gallon of goop off the bottom. I assumed the PO had "polished" his fuel during all those decades that the goop had accumulated.

If one wants to spend money to improve fuel quality, spend it on inspection ports.

The money for the polishing system wasn't wasted. I still use the polish pump to pressurize and bleed the fuel lines, but I let the filters work on their own time.
 
:iagree:

My fuel polisher was plumbed into the drains of the two tanks. Probably between a cup and a pint could remain in the tanks.

I plumbed my boat so that the generator and engine pulled from the starboard tank and I fueled to the port tank. This required polishing the fuel from port to starboard every two or three cruising days, but saved me both times when I got bad fuel.

View attachment 161004

Ted
Thank you Ted. That is a nice, clean system. It's definitely food for thought as I begin my planning.
 
Yeah, make sure your "pick up" is off the drain valve on the very bottom of the tank. This is where the water and crud will be. The engine pick up tube doesn't reach to the very bottom therefore your fuel polisher will miss some of the crud.
Is there any good reason that the pick up doesn't reach the bottom? With good filtration, I couldn't think of any so built the new takes with the pick up at the lowest place.
 
Is there any good reason that the pick up doesn't reach the bottom? With good filtration, I couldn't think of any so built the new takes with the pick up at the lowest place.
The only reason, if there is one is perhaps anticipated water in new fuel.
 
I see no reason the OP cannot find room in a 44-foot boat to install a permanent polishing system. I put a Walbro pump and a small Gulf Coast toilet paper roll filter (filters far better than a 2-micron Racor) in my 42 footer with no problem in finding the small space needed.

I diagnosed the need for a polishing system by using a hand pump attached to a tube extending through the tank fill port to the very bottom of the tanks. The emulsified gunk pulled up was shocking to me.

Any poisher should draw from the bottom-most part of the tank because otherwise any water and gunk will not be pulled out.

My procedure was to use the polisher to transfer onboard fuel to end up with one tank filled so that any new fuel could be put into the emptier tanks. After using maybe 1/3 to 1/2 of the fuel from the tank with the poilshed fuel, I began to replenish that tank (basically a "day" tank) from the refueled tank(s) with polished fuel. A vacuum gauge in the polishing system indicated when it was necessary to service the polisher filter.
 
I plan to construct a portable fuel polisher for our diesel boat. We have two-200 gallon tanks. My plan is to mount a pump, racor (racor like) filter and timer onto a board or some sort. Carry it to the boat, tap into the suction side of the tank and the reverse for the return side. When done, undo and carry the contraption home. My engine room doesn't have enough wall space to mount permanently, thus the portable factor.

My question is; when shopping for pumps, any recommendations for a 12v, self priming pump? There is quite a selection out there and I'm hoping to tap into the knowledge you all have on such a pump. I'm not seeking a fast, aggressive pump. Just slow and steady. I figure some polishing during the winter is better than no polishing at all.

Thanks!
Also covered this in an earlier post here… picture of my little portable polisher.. (yes, it’s mounted on a cheap acrylic cutting board)..
IMG_6318.jpeg

Post in thread 'Water in Racor 500 after 11 hour trip'
Water in Racor 500 after 11 hour trip
 
Last edited:
Pump I used was a “

Facet Electric Fuel Pump (12V / 121 LPH / 1/8" Ports) “​

 
Back
Top Bottom