Detailing your Helmsman

[KDT]

Today was day 1 of detailing the hull. I thought an update to earlier comments might be useful.

Last season I gave the hull full polisher TLC, then applied Fleetwax paste. In comments above I basically said the bow area got scrubbed by water a bit and I didn't have much wax left.

That turns out to be false. The haze I was looking at turned out to be light dust / dirt, not light oxidation. The minute I wiped it with a damp cloth this morning as a first step the haze was gone and the wax shine was there.

So basically the Fleetwax gave me a solid one full season of protection, which is all I can ask of it.

In no need of polishing, my 4 day job just became 2 days.

With time saved, I applied 2 coats of wax, on top of whatever wax remained.

I did use the polisher in a few trouble spots, around scuppers and fluid outlet fittings and side doors where dirty water runoff gives it more of a beating.

The completed side looks 100% factory fresh. Fleetwax gets a thumbs up.

FWT, Where are you located? I think Latitude has a large effect on the longevity of a finish. I read another forum which stated Fleetwax will give great protection up to one year in higher latitudes but don't expect more than 3 months in warmer climates.

 

[FWT]

Did you use machine or by hand? I am still wondering what and how to apply when its being commissioned in the yard. (Best laid plans)

Wax entirely by hand.

If you are going to try doing it while commissioning, it will be fresh off the boat from China and won't need a machine polish unless there is some rubbed spot you want to buff out.

Mine arrived first of July to the Chesapeake, 2023. Commissioning was a whirl of activity, and was hauled out for only 1-2 hours to attach the swim platform. No time to wax. Then again a few weeks later for 24 hours or so to drill for transducers. You could try to do it then.

My hull didn't see wax for that first half season of use then a winter haul out. Very, very light oxidation come the spring of 2024. I polished using a very light cut polish and it was back to pristine.

I lay out that detail because depending on where you are, when yours arrives and is commissioned and so forth, you might also be in a position to put it off a bit. Commissioning is a whirlwind of numerous chores you will be attending to and sometimes you just need to prioritize.

FWT, Where are you located? I think Latitude has a large effect on the longevity of a finish. I read another forum which stated Fleetwax will give great protection up to one year in higher latitudes but don't expect more than 3 months in warmer climates.

Chesapeake.

 

[KDT]

Wax entirely by hand.

If you are going to try doing it while commissioning, it will be fresh off the boat from China and won't need a machine polish unless there is some rubbed spot you want to buff out.

Mine arrived first of July to the Chesapeake, 2023. Commissioning was a whirl of activity, and was hauled out for only 1-2 hours to attach the swim platform. No time to wax. Then again a few weeks later for 24 hours or so to drill for transducers. You could try to do it then.

My hull didn't see wax for that first half season of use then a winter haul out. Very, very light oxidation come the spring of 2024. I polished using a very light cut polish and it was back to pristine.

I lay out that detail because depending on where you are, when yours arrives and is commissioned and so forth, you might also be in a position to put it off a bit. Commissioning is a whirlwind of numerous chores you will be attending to and sometimes you just need to prioritize.


Chesapeake.

Magnus Master install keeps the boat on the hard for a week so I was thinking I would need something to do, but actually, I just remembered I am retired. I'll probably call in the professionals to give it a good detailing. Phew! I feel better already.

 

[TrawlerGreg]

Hi Folks.. for context.. I took delivery of my 38E in early July '24 and after a whirlwind of commissioning, including DMS Magnus Master installation, I immediately took her up to NYC where we live then throughout New England during Summer and then to the Florida Keys in the Fall where my 38E is currently. In a few weeks I'll begin her journey back north.. all told nearly 500 hours on the Cummins (since July) and I finally had my first wash/wax/exterior detailing about 4 weeks ago. Up to that point I was in good shape, but it was time!

So here's what I did:
I hired a former mega yacht captain (think super detailed, highly experienced individual) who set up a very popular detailing service in Vero Beach where I found myself.

I couldn't allocate the time as I was flying home (and essentially have basic knowledge in this area and didn't want to "invest" days doing the work which may have led to sub optimal results).

I had a self proclaimed "OCD" individual assigned to my 38E for what was 6 full days. For what was about $3,500 I got an amazing outcome and got all the details on process, on materials used, etc. From this point forward I have a great foundation, the information and techniques to continue this on my own.

Here are the cliff notes:

1. When washing the boat - don't use what I had been using (Marine West pink boat wash), but use Meguiars Boat Wash (it's pink, on Amazon and doesn't remove the wax like West Marine apparently does). Tons of positive reviews online, now it's on my radar!

2. While washing the boat have a tube of Starbrite in our pocket with an old rag. See any rust on the stainless? Simply apply and wash away with a wet rag. It works, it's on Amazon..

3. Use a shammy for windows, metals to eliminate water marks. Basic, it works wonders.. $8 on Amazon.

4. After using Starbrite (see #2 above), use Collinite Insulator Wax No. 845. This is a polymer sealer for metals. After Starbrite is washed away put this on and let it dry to a haze, then wipe off. It's on Amazon.

5. Meguiars Premium Marine Wax. It's on Amazon, do this every 3-6 months on the gelcoat if you're in the south, up in the northeast less often needed). Maybe do a section every few months vs. doing the whole darn 38E over one weekend. Simply apply with a rag, let it haze, then wipe down.

6. For acrylic / plastic bits on the boat like the windscreen on the flybridge): Product is called NOVUS. Novus 1, Novas 2, and Novas 3 are the products to remove scratches (#3) to polish (#1). If you begin with #3 you need to then use #2, and complete with #1.

Sorry for the long post, but this guy was great, gave me the tools and sharing with you.

Greg

 

[KMAL]

Hi Folks.. for context.. I took delivery of my 38E in early July '24 and after a whirlwind of commissioning, including DMS Magnus Master installation, I immediately took her up to NYC where we live then throughout New England during Summer and then to the Florida Keys in the Fall where my 38E is currently. In a few weeks I'll begin her journey back north.. all told nearly 500 hours on the Cummins (since July) and I finally had my first wash/wax/exterior detailing about 4 weeks ago. Up to that point I was in good shape, but it was time!

So here's what I did:
I hired a former mega yacht captain (think super detailed, highly experienced individual) who set up a very popular detailing service in Vero Beach where I found myself.

I couldn't allocate the time as I was flying home (and essentially have basic knowledge in this area and didn't want to "invest" days doing the work which may have led to sub optimal results).

I had a self proclaimed "OCD" individual assigned to my 38E for what was 6 full days. For what was about $3,500 I got an amazing outcome and got all the details on process, on materials used, etc. From this point forward I have a great foundation, the information and techniques to continue this on my own.

Here are the cliff notes:

1. When washing the boat - don't use what I had been using (Marine West pink boat wash), but use Meguiars Boat Wash (it's pink, on Amazon and doesn't remove the wax like West Marine apparently does). Tons of positive reviews online, now it's on my radar!

2. While washing the boat have a tube of Starbrite in our pocket with an old rag. See any rust on the stainless? Simply apply and wash away with a wet rag. It works, it's on Amazon..

3. Use a shammy for windows, metals to eliminate water marks. Basic, it works wonders.. $8 on Amazon.

4. After using Starbrite (see #2 above), use Collinite Insulator Wax No. 845. This is a polymer sealer for metals. After Starbrite is washed away put this on and let it dry to a haze, then wipe off. It's on Amazon.

5. Meguiars Premium Marine Wax. It's on Amazon, do this every 3-6 months on the gelcoat if you're in the south, up in the northeast less often needed). Maybe do a section every few months vs. doing the whole darn 38E over one weekend. Simply apply with a rag, let it haze, then wipe down.

6. For acrylic / plastic bits on the boat like the windscreen on the flybridge): Product is called NOVUS. Novus 1, Novas 2, and Novas 3 are the products to remove scratches (#3) to polish (#1). If you begin with #3 you need to then use #2, and complete with #1.

Sorry for the long post, but this guy was great, gave me the tools and sharing with you.

Greg

This is great! Thx

 

[FWT]

Great info Greg. Couple of products there I have not tried, but now I will

 

[Helmsman]

Thanks, Greg, that is awesome!

 

[Jklotz]

Hi Folks.. for context.. I took delivery of my 38E in early July '24 and after a whirlwind of commissioning, including DMS Magnus Master installation, I immediately took her up to NYC where we live then throughout New England during Summer and then to the Florida Keys in the Fall where my 38E is currently. In a few weeks I'll begin her journey back north.. all told nearly 500 hours on the Cummins (since July) and I finally had my first wash/wax/exterior detailing about 4 weeks ago. Up to that point I was in good shape, but it was time!

So here's what I did:
I hired a former mega yacht captain (think super detailed, highly experienced individual) who set up a very popular detailing service in Vero Beach where I found myself.

I couldn't allocate the time as I was flying home (and essentially have basic knowledge in this area and didn't want to "invest" days doing the work which may have led to sub optimal results).

I had a self proclaimed "OCD" individual assigned to my 38E for what was 6 full days. For what was about $3,500 I got an amazing outcome and got all the details on process, on materials used, etc. From this point forward I have a great foundation, the information and techniques to continue this on my own.

Here are the cliff notes:

1. When washing the boat - don't use what I had been using (Marine West pink boat wash), but use Meguiars Boat Wash (it's pink, on Amazon and doesn't remove the wax like West Marine apparently does). Tons of positive reviews online, now it's on my radar!

2. While washing the boat have a tube of Starbrite in our pocket with an old rag. See any rust on the stainless? Simply apply and wash away with a wet rag. It works, it's on Amazon..

3. Use a shammy for windows, metals to eliminate water marks. Basic, it works wonders.. $8 on Amazon.

4. After using Starbrite (see #2 above), use Collinite Insulator Wax No. 845. This is a polymer sealer for metals. After Starbrite is washed away put this on and let it dry to a haze, then wipe off. It's on Amazon.

5. Meguiars Premium Marine Wax. It's on Amazon, do this every 3-6 months on the gelcoat if you're in the south, up in the northeast less often needed). Maybe do a section every few months vs. doing the whole darn 38E over one weekend. Simply apply with a rag, let it haze, then wipe down.

6. For acrylic / plastic bits on the boat like the windscreen on the flybridge): Product is called NOVUS. Novus 1, Novas 2, and Novas 3 are the products to remove scratches (#3) to polish (#1). If you begin with #3 you need to then use #2, and complete with #1.

Sorry for the long post, but this guy was great, gave me the tools and sharing with you.

Greg

Great stuff, thanks for posting.

 

[tomah]

I thought I would ask what others do to detail their Helmsman. I have always used a detailer with previous boats, and used a detailer early with this one.

I will share what is working for me. While the build was underway we originally planned to use ceramic, and decided on Permanon after some research. However, we never got around to using it on the exterior fiberglass. We did apply it to the stainless, to the windows, and to the interior fiberglass. They are still in good shape, and the ceramic allows for easy cleaning. It doesn’t seem to shine as well as a good wax does, but will last longer. According to the research I have done, the order of durability is ceramic, then polymer, and then natural waxes like Carnauba. The order of the best”look” is the opposite, with natural waxes, polymer wax, and then ceramic. Of course, all three applications are impacted by the underlying quality of the surface, and the weather conditions they are applied under.

We had a detailer apply a polymer (synthetic) wax to the fiberglass after receiving the boat, which worked out well for us. The boat still looked good going into winter. This spring I decided to detail the boat myself. I picked some Meguiar Ultimate Wax which is also a polymer wax. I used Meguiar’s metal polish on the stainless steel and then applied Meguiar’s Carnauba with Polymer paste wax to protect the SS. (The paste was wax was easier to apply than liquid to the railings) It took longer to polish the stainless than it did to wax it.

For the vinyl I used 303 protectant. I have used that product for years, and it works well and lasts about three months. During those three months, all it takes to clean the vinyl is a to wipe it with a wet microfiber towel. Cleans right up. I use 303 fabric guard on the Bimini and Helm cover.

It took a little over 20 hours to complete the boat detailing. I did take my time while doing the work. A pic of the water reflecting off the hull is attached.

So, what say you? What works for you?

For your Helmsman, your routine is solid. Use ceramic coatings like Permanon for long-lasting protection on stainless, windows, and interior fiberglass. For the exterior, polymer or synthetic wax like Meguiar’s Ultimate Wax works well and is easier to apply than natural wax. Polish stainless steel first, then apply a paste wax for protection. For vinyl, 303 Protectant lasts about three months and keeps surfaces easy to clean, and 303 Fabric Guard works well on Bimini and helm covers. Taking your time, as you did, ensures the best results and longevity of all surfaces.

 

[amxr39]

I have a dual action orbital. It works well but is awkward in a lot of spots. I just started applying the Meguiar’s Ultimate by hand after trying the orbital. It went on easily and then off easily. Just have to manage how much you’re applying. It doesn’t take much.

I bought a 3” battery dual action orbital that seems to work well in tight areas. I use it on my stainless too.

 

[FWT]

Process and preferences continue to evolve.

For several years I used Fleetwax paste all around. Searches indicated it lasted the longest of anything out there. My hull still has wax and shine on it when I begin my work the following spring.

This season I continued to use that on the hull, done in the spring before launch. But topsides I have been trying Meguiar Ultimate. The Meguiar is certainly easy, and the only thing easier would be to train it to jump out of the bottle on its own. I am not yet convinced it has the life of Fleetwax. Fleetwax has a "warmer" look to the shine and Meguiar has a bit more of a "wet" look to it. Your personal preference may push you in a direction due to that. But I am finding the Meguiar doesn't hold that wet look and remain hydrophobic as long as I would like. At least not on the pilothouse roof that takes the biggest beating from the sun.

My local detailer uses pro-only polymer that has more polymer in it than standard over the counter stuff. Apparently you can make mistakes with the application, hence pro-only. He says the Meguiar Ultimate has the highest concentration of polymer he knows of that is sold over the counter.

This season I did try something else new I may not try again. I wanted a wax on my nonskid that would not be slippery. A search said WoodyWax was best for that. I will say it does perform well. But I misapplied it on one spot. The directions say put a bit on a microfiber, rub it on, wait a half hour and wipe off any excess. Come back next day and wash with a nonskin cleaner. Well, I got lazy or stupid or both and put some directly on the nonskid patch to then spread it. What I ended up with was a big brown spot on my deck. I've been going up the food chain of progressively harsher stuff to remove it, unsuccessfully so far, but am about to go to the nuclear option of something mineral spirits based.

If anyone has something else to seal their nonskid they would recommend, I'm interested.

Also, since just after delivery I've been fighting some nasty stains in my flybridge nonskin. This season I've also been going up the food chain on it, not really knowing what it was from. Repeated deck cleaning did not touch it. FSR lightened it a bit, but only a bit with repeated use. I went nuclear on it with Goof Off, on my hands and knees with a stiff brush and that did the trick. Its slow work but effective. Followed by heavy flooding with rinse water including rinsing the areas hit by the runoff, followed by two rounds of deck cleaner, all to get rid of any traces of the Goof Off.

That solution was sort of guided to me by the local detailer. His advice was the stuff to use depends on the nature of the cause of the stain. General dirt is handled by nonskid cleaners. Something deeper and organic like duck poop (local ducks like the swim platforms in the marina) use FSR. But anything petroleum based will require a petroleum solution like mineral spirits. And he says never ever ever ever use Acetone. FYI I did try Dawn grease-cutting dish soap but it was not effective.

In hindsight, I think my flybridge problem was my electronics installer topped up the hydraulic fluid after the autopilot install, spilled some, and tracked the spill around.