Cruiser instead of Trawler?

[Sharked]

Hi Everyone,

I realize this forum is trawler focused, however given the housing and stock market performance its seeming more and more unlikely that I will be unable to afford and operate the trawler that I had planned to retire on.

Our plans for retirement is to spend most of the time in the Bahamas, only coming back to Florida as needed. I have no interest in doing the loop, or crossing the ocean. Once I get to Bahamas, perhaps going south island hopping would be the extent of my travels.

Do you think a semi-displacement type boat would be suitable at all for a liveaboard in the Bahamas? (Operating at trawler speeds though, 6-8knots)

We are a couple close to retirement age, both healthy and no mobility issues. Stairs are preferred, but ladders are fine too.

I have noticed I can get much newer boat in my price range of 250K, for example a Meridian 381, 481 less than 20 years old.

Whereas for the same amount of money to buy a true "trawler" I would be looking at a much older boat, most likely containing lots of wood which I don't want.

I know generally trawlers are better for stability, comfort & space, and if I won the lottery I would already be on a Fleming 55 drinking rum watching the sunset.

I am just wondering if any of you have come across any liveaboards in semi-displacement cruiser style boats?

Specifically in the Bahama's or other Caribbean island?


Appreciate any advice you can offer?

 

[Sharked]

Sorry I should stated $250K CAD, so would be about $200K USD

 

[Comodave]

We have had both types. Currently we have an express cruiser. Bith are certainly capable of liveaboard but our last trawler would be much more amenable to liveaboard than our express cruiser. Just more storage. But there are other types of cruisers that would work as well as a trawler. I would make a list of must haves and must not haves and start looking at boats and see what feels right. Ne consideration is gas or diesel. We have had both and actually wanted gas engines in our current boat but ended up with diesels. We wanted gas engines due to the lack of marine diesel mechanics in our local area.

 

[Action]

And know that if money is a consideration, the cost to operate & maintain a vessel is not like a car or light truck. The money needed on an ongoing basis is considerable. And the larger the boat the more the costs increase to operate.

Not just fuel. A whole host of things need to be fed $ on a regular basis.

 

[Sharked]

Money is a consideration only that with the markets the way they are now, I am more comfortable spending 200K USD vs 500K USD I was originally thinking.

(That may change again as I get closer, but for now, I wanted to look at other cheaper options)

My main questions are with 24/7 liveaboard comfort in a cruiser style vs a trawler style?
My current boat is a 30ft sea ray, and I can't imagine living on that, its a weekend boat only.

So while cruisers in the 40-50ft range are obviously bigger, and have separate stateroom, compared to my 30ft boat. I am concerned about the comfort level of a semi-displacement boat running at trawler speeds of 7-8 knots, both crossing the gulf, and on anchor in the Bahamas.

Our requirements list so far are:
Diesel engine(s)
Separate shower - the wife does not want a wet head
Flybridge - I prefer to captain from here, hard top is my preference, but canvas is fine
Watermaker - Water is expensive to buy in the Bahamas
Big fridge/freezer or extra freezer - Food is expensive in the Bahamas
Generator to run A/C

What I am struggling with: is a 20 year old Cruiser like a Meridian 481 a "good enough" liveaboard Bahamas boat, vs a 40 year old Ocean Alexander, Tollycraft, etc for the same money?

 

[BruceK]

This recent thread demonstrates the ability of a "cruiser"( sports boat really) to run from west coast USA to Hawaii: https://www.trawlerforum.com/forums...delivery-hawaii-currently-underway-70505.html
You should find the accommodation you seek in either a "cruiser" or a "trawler". A trawler is really a kind of cruiser, usually semi displacement,but it`s as much a marketing term as anything and a "look".
If I see my SD boat and a Riviera Sportfish with an essentially planing hull but having a good reputation as a competent seaboat, both on mooring balls in moderate breeze, the Riv will be "hunting" around its ball much more than my boat.
There is variation within SD, towards planing, or towards full SD. The Bayliner 4588/4788, from the same stable as Meridian I think, had elements of full displacement in its hull. A good planing hull will operate fine at "displacement speeds"(roughly the square root of waterline length)

I think there is virtue in a younger boat. Less wear and tear is likely,though in older boats condition depends on maintenance and usage. I have not and will never cross to/from the Bahamas so I can`t help you there, but I would not get too hung up on cruiser vs trawler, there are variations, I would look for a competent sea boat with the accommodation you want. I don`t know enough about what is available there to be more help but others will, and you may refine your ideas.
FWIW, I didn`t realize the Canadian RE market had turned. It was similar to ours which continues to hold up despite interest rate rises, perhaps largely due to high migration maintaining demand.
Good luck with getting your ideas in order and finding the right( or closest) boat for your needs.

 

[RedRascal]

Sorry no specific boat references, just a couple general points. As you comparison shop definitely keep storage of extra provisions and "stuff" in mind. Some newer boats may look and are spacious however storage may be limited. Second is if you will be anchoring out a lot you'll have more chances of swinging around uncomfortably on anchor. So consider if sleeping in the bow of a boat with hull slap will bug you or sleeping athwart will be a bother in a rollie anchorage. Since we spend about 1/3 of our lives sleeping definitely factor in comfortable sleep during less than ideal nights at anchor. Sometimes the most comfortable point in a boat for minimal motion is also where there is minimal ventilation. Ventilation and/or A/C should also be considered for a good nights sleep. Happy shopping!

 

[slowgoesit]

Absolutely no need IMHO for a full displacement hull trawler for the type of cruising you intend on doing. Plus, a boat like the Meridian you spoke of, or the Bayliner series mentioned above will probably have a shallower draft than a full displacement hull. That's a big thing in the Bahamas, where there is LOTS of skinny water. Just to be clear, your $200k usd figure is for the initial purchase, correct? Add a watermaker, $4.5k for a brand new, really nice one (plus installation, which is a snap if you are any kind of a do it your selfer). Plus other "stuff". Examples include:

• Nice dinghy in the 9 - 11' range, with a 20ish hp rating will set you back from $5k used to $20k new, but is absolutely essential, as that is your "car" while cruising. Are you going to tow it, or does the boat have davits or similar setup (add $$$ here if not so equipped)
• Is the boat equipped with solar panels, not a NECESSITY, but really makes life simpler down the road
• Batteries: What type, age, condition, ABSOLUTELY have them individually load tested during survey, or plan on total replacement soon. If you want to upgrade to LiFePO4 batteries, you need to survey the entire boat electrical system, and upgrade the entire SYSTEM, not just drop in LIFePO4 batteries, so you're probably looking at new alternator, or at least an external voltage regulator if you already have a good one, new battery charger suitable for LiFePO4 batteries, possibly new inverter . . . .
• Internet for the Bahamas, I'd go Starlink, hands down!
• take a hard look at the anchoring system currently on whatever boat you look at buying. A cruiser/semi planning hull in my experience is less likely to come with a suitable sized/type of anchor, and good chain/rode required for a lot of anchoring out. So figure $2k for new anchor/chain setup, baring in mind that the anchor roller assembly may not be suitable for you new anchor . . . . more $$$. Perhaps keep the old one as a backup.
• Food is $$$$ in the Bahamas. Lots of storage is better. If you have room for a chest freezer, get one! It comes with it's associated energy penalty though, and that has to be considered.
• Larger (ish) fuel tanks are nice in the Bahamas, as fuel is expensive, and even more important, having water maker and large fuel tanks means you're not constantly planning your travel based on where you can fill up next. Then the only commodity restricting you is fresh veggies and food. (or alcohol if you are so inclined)

None of the stuff above will be any different on a cruiser vs a trawler, just needs to be addressed/considered when you shop for your boat.

With your stated cruising desires in mind, I believe you could be absolutely happy with a semi-displacement hull. We're headed there (slowly) and there's a lot to be said for a 4 1/2' draft instead of a 5 1/2' draft like we have!

A piece of advice: Make a list, or a spreadsheet if you are comfortable using them. List:

• Must haves (ex; dry head, installed generator, fly bridge, steering station on both levels)
• like to haves (ex; hard bimini, walk around deck, easy access to water for swimming/diving, etc)
• Nice if already installed (watermaker, solar, extra freezer, dive compressor, if so inclined, newer electronics)
• Would prefer not to have (ex; too many ladders, forward master, (reference "wave slap" mentioned above, etc))
• Definitely don't want (wood hull, boat loan, Specific type/brand of engine if so inclined, and no I am not going to start a fight here . . . . , )

For us, doing a spreadsheet helped take the emotion out of the picture when looking for a boat. You probably won't get everything on your "Like to have" column, we didn't, but all boats are a compromise. The goal is to buy the best boat you can find, in the best condition, within your budget, which already comes closest to your "dream" boat with respect to desired amenities. Adding stuff later is almost always more $$ than buying a boat with same equipment already installed, IF correctly installed, and in good working order.

Best of luck in finding a boat to further your dream!

 

[ranger58sb]

Do you think a semi-displacement type boat would be suitable at all for a liveaboard in the Bahamas? (Operating at trawler speeds though, 6-8knots)

We are a couple close to retirement age, both healthy and no mobility issues. Stairs are preferred, but ladders are fine too.

I have noticed I can get much newer boat in my price range of 250K, for example a Meridian 381, 481 less than 20 years old.

Whereas for the same amount of money to buy a true "trawler" I would be looking at a much older boat, most likely containing lots of wood which I don't want.

I know generally trawlers are better for stability, comfort & space,

My main questions are with 24/7 liveaboard comfort in a cruiser style vs a trawler style?
My current boat is a 30ft sea ray, and I can't imagine living on that, its a weekend boat only.

So while cruisers in the 40-50ft range are obviously bigger, and have separate stateroom, compared to my 30ft boat. I am concerned about the comfort level of a semi-displacement boat running at trawler speeds of 7-8 knots, both crossing the gulf, and on anchor in the Bahamas.

Our requirements list so far are:
Diesel engine(s)
Separate shower - the wife does not want a wet head
Flybridge - I prefer to captain from here, hard top is my preference, but canvas is fine
Watermaker - Water is expensive to buy in the Bahamas
Big fridge/freezer or extra freezer - Food is expensive in the Bahamas
Generator to run A/C

What I am struggling with: is a 20 year old Cruiser like a Meridian 481 a "good enough" liveaboard Bahamas boat, vs a 40 year old Ocean Alexander, Tollycraft, etc for the same money?

First, note there are full displacement "trawlers" and there are semi-displacement "trawlers" -- and a "pleasure trawler" as many have here is more a state of mind than a hull feature.

Ref the comfort at 6-8 kts... Even with a full planing hull like on our "non-trawler" (see avatar), it's usually fine, depending on weather and sea states. From reading, apparently at slow speed or at anchor usually not much different from an unstabilized trawler. Also, we're not at all bothered by staying in port 'til weather improves... and it sounds like you'd be able to do that too. And sometimes we even (gasp!) get up on plane for a trip segment, a tactic you could use to cross over to the islands in about two hours.

Ref the liveaboard thing... features and layout will have more impact than would "trawler-hood-ness or not." Your requirements list is a good start; continue to develop that, look at boats that might qualify, refine your list, etc. and potential boats will find you. Without regard to hull form, at least until you're at the "weeding out" stage. Ditto without regard to specific engines, until later on too ('cause mostly boats were built with whatever engines they were built with, so you'll have less choice there anyway).

You may find the Powerboat Guide useful; the softcopy version is keyword searchable...

-Chris

 

[psneeld]

Me, I would go sportfish, maybe power cat if I could find one on budget with decent sleeping quarters.

I didn't find any pictures of a Meridian 481 (30 some footer may be cramped for water/food tankage...water tank so running the water maker too much or failure and waiting for part). But the Meridians are pretty close to sportfish design....so are some Sea Ray models so I might live with those options too.

The Bahamas are generally about living outside anyhow and the cockpit is great for lounging, fishing and getting in and out of the water/dinghy. The salon is fine for those crappier days.

Put a cockpit shade with a fan or two powered by solar in the cockpit for those still days and the superstructure blocks the at anchor wind.

But that's me and not knowing how much gear you really want to take along, it makes solving your down time/hobby requirements difficult.

And no, trawlers without stabilization are often not all they stable...to cross the stream, a sportfish at 15 or so knots is great and you are across the worst of it in a couple hours or less.

A big concern after purchase budget is the operating/maintenance budget. Running any bigger, faster, more complex boat will obviously creep up maybe exponentially in budgets. This is where long term, remote cruising gets really expensive if you cant carry a lot of spares with you and the tools to do the work.

One more thing...if you buy a Meridian...heading further than the Bahamas might surprise you once you discover just how rough it can get heading further south. Sure it can be done...but most comfy with stabilization... or in my opinion, time to think sail based on your budget, I would....and that is after living aboard nearly 15 years on a sportfish and Albin trawler.

 

[mvweebles]

Eventually, Ksanders will find this thread. He took a Bayliner 4788 from Alaska to La Paz (5000 nms?), a boat that is squarely within the OPs budget. Last year he went from La Paz to Ensenada and back, 1600 nms round trip in some pretty respectable waters - northbound in the Pacific. Bayliner was re-brandee Meridian so this is right in the heart of the OPs question.

There are a few compromises to a cruiser type hull. First, load carrying capacity. Displacement hulls are not as sensitive to added weight.

Second, exposed props. You'll be in skinny water. Tapping a prop can be expensive so while the physical draft is shallower on a planing boat, the effective draft is much greater because you need to add a buffer and hope there isn't a lone obstruction poking up. A displacement hull with well protected props is usually unphased by touching bottom.

Third is engine access. Some of the planing boats have lousy engine room access so maintenance is more difficult.

For your itinerary, as Psneeld points out, you'll be living outside a bunch. In my opinion, the traditional trunk cabin trawler (e.g. Grand Banks classic) is not optimal for outdoor living. Weebles, my Willard 36 sedan, has a tiny interior but a massive covered aft deck which is great for warm climates. KSanders Bayliner 4788 has a nice sedan layout too. A sport fisher or "convertible" layout would also work well (with some sort of awning over the cockpit)

Bottom line is buy the nicest boat you can afford and use it. I'd err towards the smallest boat that will suit your needs in premium condition vs the largest you can find in average condition .

Good luck with whatever you decide.

Peter

 

[BDofMSP]

The PO of my boat (Silverton 410 Sedan Bridge) lived aboard for half the year and spent considerable time in the Bahamas on her. I agree with mvweebles that engine room access is nothing like many trawlers (mostly because twins), but it's manageable if you're not a huge person.

We do have a fully enclosed fly and cockpit, which are all screened as well. That makes the "outside" aspect much more enjoyable. That said, on long crossings of Lake Superior we would have preferred an pilothouse occasionally, but never required one.

It's definitely a tradeoff, but if the thing being traded is not doing anything at all in order to wait for the "perfect boat" then that's not a trade worth making in my book. Go do the boating. I doubt you'll regret it.

 

[Seevee]

Generally, cruisers don't have a lower helm, nor a lower helm door for locking and docking. (musts for me). The also don't have good walkways around the boat, given up for more cabin space.

And I couldn't find a Meridian 481 but most of the ones over 45 feet are very similar. But most of them at more than your budget. And there's a lot of trawlers that are over 40 feet and are close your budget

As mentioned, engine room is important.

As for cruising the Bahamas, draft is important. A cat comes to mind. Still has speed, great for shallow water, easy to handle, but seems like to get much room for staterooms, you need to get over 45 feet and goes out of your budget.


A list, like Slowgoesit mentions, is a great way to sort things out.

 

[rslifkin]

Some cruisers make a good trawler substitute, others don't. It depends on layout, tankage, how well the hull runs at low speeds, etc. We've got a Chris Craft 381 Catalina, which is a trunk cabin cruiser. Single helm, but it's placed on top of the aft cabin with proper windshields, not as a flybridge. So it's about where an aft pilothouse would sit. We can cruise at 17 kts if we want to, but most of the time we run at trawler speed, around 6.5 - 7 kts.

Ours isn't a good layout for single handing, as there's a lack of quick access from the helm to the side decks (port side is workable, stbd is not). You either go aft or down the stairs and out the side door to get to the side decks. With 2 of us on board, it's a non-issue. We do have good side decks to move around on, and there's no tanks or anything large mounted outboard of the engines, so our engine access is fairly good for the size of the boat, even with twins. It's sitting/crawling height, but there's plenty of space to get between the engines or outboard of them and sit down to work on something, plus a lot of the floor above the engines and generator can be removed if top-down access is needed for something.

One change we have in the plans is to replace the bimini with a hard top (which will be longer than the current bimini) and make appropriate changes to the canvas layout, etc. to get better sun protection at the helm and in the outdoor living space and make it more generally usable.

Here are a few pictures of our boat for reference (including an example of the view forward from the helm).

 

[ksanders]

I cruise on and I suppose live on my Bayliner 4788, a semi displacement hulled boat.

Actually I'm not sure where I live, but that's another story.

After cruising the fabled rough waters of the Gulf of Alaska for a decade I cruised my boat down the Pacific Coast in 2022 and have made La Paz BCS Mexico my home.

I have been up and down the rugged, exposed Baja Peninsula three times, and will be making a 4th trip in a few months.

I say these things because this bit of experience cruising my Semi Displacement production boat in open waters lends a bit of credibility to my opinion.

There is no arguing that a fully stabilized full displacement hull form will be more comfortable in rough water. That is a undeniable fact. There is no arguing that having the larger fuel capacity often found on full displacement hulls can be an advantage. Yet another undeniable fact.

Like the OP, I started out dreaming of a full displacement trawler, but like the OP the realities of the decision making process became apparent very quickly in my search.

My Bayliner 4788 is very comfortable in any reasonable weather. It is extremely comfortable as a platform for extended cruising. It is sufficiently comfortable in rough weather to get the job done. It has the fuel range needed for any Coastal Cruising or island hopping adventure you might desire.

It also fit my budget, allowing me to retire at a young age instead of trading years in the office for a "better" boat.

You will find that you can buy an excellent example of a 50' class, late model, production, semi displacement boat, for your budget of $200K. Or you can go smaller, and or older.

If you search long enough you might get lucky and stumble on a unicorn like Scott's fantastic passagemaker, but those boats are unicorns.

Best of luck in your search!

Writing from paradise in Mexico

 

[HeadedToTexas]

A few have mentioned it, but system access is really important. Can't say I've been aboard a Meridian 481, but the engine rooms, access hatches, and lazarettes of most cruiser boats I've poked my head into look really cramped. Spend some time down there voluntarily before you have to involuntarily.

 

[Sharked]

Thank you for the feedback so far!


I will look at some sportfish models, I hadn't considered them as I thought they were meant to go fast with twin 500hp+ engines, and costing $1000 an hour on fuel.

I prefer a much slower pace, and the room that a trawler provides. But if a sportfish model can run fine at 7-8 knots and sip fuel then I can consider it!

There are two of us, so I doubt I would be single handling the boat very often if at all, so accessibly for lines/fenders isn't a primary concern.

Our must haves:
- outside space, being the Bahamas we expect to be outside most of the time

- fly bridge, having an inside 2nd helm would be nice, but given where we plan to be, I don't think its a requirement

- We don't like aft cabin designs where you have to climb a ladder down to the water

- separate shower, she doesn't want a wet head

- separate stateroom/owners cabin (most of the smaller cruisers like our Searay are all open inside)

- watermaker, generator, big fridge/freezer or a 2nd freezer

- diesel powered


I hadn't considered engine room access previously, I am 6ft, 230lbs so not the smallest guy, crawling in between engines could be an issue.

Do they even make sportfish or cruisers with single diesel engines? or are they all twins?

 

[psneeld]

Any type of boat can have a wide variance in all kinds of space and arrangements. You definitely have to look and feel at boats that check a lot of boxes but you aren't sure about all of them.

As far as single handling or just even 2 people, sportfish can be either easy or hard...that's up to the captain and crew, size of the vessel and conditions and place of docking. It is surprising how one can do a lot of things others never seem to understand are afraid to do or just can't due to physical limitations.... troublesome docking is one of those things.

Same is true for working in the engine room. Some people shake their heads and others adapt or modify the boat if it already doesn't have equipment installed in maintenance friendly places or access to them is limited.

Fuel costs are always an interesting topic. There are many ways to look at it. I for one look at the cost over time because I have a small but steady retirement income. If I move either my boat or RV a lot in a month...my monthly fuel bill starts to skyrocket. So I slow down...not in speed so much, but in the number of moves and distance traveled each month. Something pretty easy for a retired person on o particular schedule. That way I can keep the fuel budget within my desired range so I don't have to use credit or dip into savings. If I really needed to go over budget one month, I would just make up for it the next.

I promised myself when I sold my trawler that the next boat would have some speed in her. 6.3 knots like the trawler sometimes costs just as much as burning the fuel difference in the fast boat as getting places takes longer which means more marina time sometimes, food/provisions, being stuck in a place you no longer want to be due to too small of weather windows. I did 10 years of snowbirding the ACIW covering 20,000 miles and came to the realization that the time it took and many places revisited, it was time for a change. For those 10 years, slow was OK, but I could have done the same slow speed with a faster boat and gone fast when I needed/wanted to and probably still not cost me that much more money if I planned well.

 

[Mako]

OP, if you can get a boat that is younger than the year 2000 then that's a big bonus.

You're right that most "trawler" styles have lots of exterior wood, which will not be fun to own when living in the Bahamas/Carib. If teak decks then I'd say stay the heck away from it. I suppose that's the advantage of the express cruisers - they may be lacking the traditional styling of trawlers but they are much lower maintenance. Check out the Tollycraft cockpit models. If you go that route then try to stay away from high-powered models since you'll be living at low speeds.

In either case, bigger is better. We recently viewed a big 49' 50k lb trawler which still had the washer dryer in the engine room and the deep freeze up on the flybridge. Another 48' had both in the cockpit.

 

[ksanders]

Thank you for the feedback so far!


I will look at some sportfish models, I hadn't considered them as I thought they were meant to go fast with twin 500hp+ engines, and costing $1000 and hour on fuel.

I prefer a much slower pace, and the room that a trawler provides. But if a sportfish model can run fine at 7-8 knots and sip fuel then I can consider it!

There are two of us, so I doubt I would be single handling the boat very often if at all, so accessibly for lines/fenders isn't a primary concern.

Our must haves:
- outside space, being the Bahamas we expect to be outside most of the time

- fly bridge, having an inside 2nd helm would be nice, but given where we plan to be, I don't think its a requirement

- We don't like aft cabin designs where you have to climb a ladder down to the water

- separate shower, she doesn't want a wet head

- separate stateroom/owners cabin (most of the smaller cruisers like our Searay are all open inside)

- watermaker, generator, big fridge/freezer or a 2nd freezer

- diesel powered


I hadn't considered engine room access previously, I am 6ft, 230lbs so not the smallest guy, crawling in between engines could be an issue.

Do they even make sportfish or cruisers with single diesel engines? or are they all twins?

You need to get on some sport fish boats.

What I found...

Sport fishers are...

Great head sea rough water boats.
Have huge engines, like in the 600+ per engine
Less interior room because they have a huge fishing cockpit.
Often zero interior helm, or a very limited one.

Remember boats are a compromise. To gain one thing you have to give up another.

As far as engine spaces in a <50' cruiser, almost every example will have the engines beneath the salon sole. Some have better access than others. Some have been modified from the OEM to improve access. On my Bayliner for example I have modified it for all four side access to both engines.

 

[Sharked]

You need to get on some sport fish boats.

Unfortunately being where I am living now, its not a market for sportfishers, so viewing any in person would involve flying somewhere. I would like to at least have a short list of makes/models/years before spending the money to go get on them.

 

[mvweebles]

As far as engine spaces in a <50' cruiser, almost every example will have the engines beneath the salon sole. Some have better access than others. Some have been modified from the OEM to improve access. On my Bayliner for example I have modified it for all four side access to both engines.

This Cabo 36-38 foot sport fisher is a few slips away here in Mazatlan. The owner has a guy who cleans it full time so it always looks brand new. It was out for 3 days last week and having engine service this week. Ingenious engine access - the entire midships sole hinges upwards. Two guys easily fit in there with near standing room for shorter folks.

Peter

 

[PierreR]

What you want to do with the boat has far reaching issues beyond what is being discussed in the thread that might make a difference.
I sounds like you want to spend most of the year around the Bahamas and not go north and south summer to winter. If that is the case, you will be there for hurricane season.
If that is the case then the question is are you financing the boat or paying cash for the boat. If financing, then you will be purchasing a boat less than 30 years old and paying more for insurance than your fuel and maybe your dockage combined,.
If you are purchasing for cash, that opens up a whole new world of strategies. For one, when boats get older than 30 years they generally take a big drop in price because they are no longer easily financed and are only worth what someone has in cash.
What ages the most on boats are all the rubber, canvas and plastic pieces. These last from 10-35 years.
You can likely find an older boat that is in your size range with everything you want completely updated and in better condition than a 20-30 year old boat and a fraction of the cost, cash deal.
Perfection is the enemy of excellence and is certainly true in "Self Insured" boats. Most people think they need a boat in the condition for a circumnavigation when they buy and in 6 months, put up with a lot of little things wrong like all homes have. Buying a solid older boat that is not totally up to spiffy standards can be had and self insurance that meet the excellence standard much easier. In other words, piece of mind because you could afford to lose the boat.
Your risk tolerance has a lot to do with piece of mind and flexibility in terms of use and costs.

My own boat is a reflection of my risk tolerance and capabilities of both my wife and myself. We can afford 5+ times the amount of boat that we have. I am fully retired but need a job, the boat is part of the job. I am capable of doing anything the boat needs so, I could not bring myself to buying turn key. My wife is balance challenged and therefore ladders are out, stairs only with less than an 8" tread. I built the stair cases and hand rails it lacked. We plan on traveling and dinghy's are pretty much out for my wife but, we can afford dockage, even in the Bahamas, because we are not boat poor. We can afford to self insure when in a hurricane area in hurricane season.

To summarize, we do not feel trapped or feel we must use the boat due to how much we have invested. We feel we have the ability to leave it set if we want to without selling it. We can afford an additional boat in the PNW or Europe if we so choose.

I have seen far to many retiree's that are boat poor and on tight budgets. At the same time, other retirees happy in sub 30 footers with plenty of cash in their pockets to enjoy their travels.

 

[Sharked]

I sounds like you want to spend most of the year around the Bahamas and not go north and south summer to winter. If that is the case, you will be there for hurricane season.

Our plan for hurricanes season, was to either being on the hard some where in the Caribbean, or back in north Florida.

 

[Sharked]

The sportfish models I am seeing on yachtworld all tend to have very high superstructures, I assume its for spotting fish?

How would those type of boats handle in rough water, both at power and during anchoring?

Would the tall superstructures cause the boat to have a higher center of gravity? and therefore more rolling?

 

[ksanders]

The sportfish models I am seeing on yachtworld all tend to have very high superstructures, I assume its for spotting fish?

How would those type of boats handle in rough water, both at power and during anchoring?

Would the tall superstructures cause the boat to have a higher center of gravity? and therefore more rolling?

The SF boat's I have seen in the 50' size range seem to plow through head seas very well. That is from being side by side with them, not as a passenger though.

 

[PierreR]

Without the tall superstructure on these boats they might refer to them as a Convertible. You would likely have them around Toronto.

 

[psneeld]

Tuna or Marlin towers are not what makes a sport fish versus a convertible in my experience.

The only difference I have heard between the two is size and cockpit layout with the convertible not having the options like cockpit controls, bait prep station, fish boxes, etc, etc...

Either boat style could be outfitted with a tuna or marlin tower.

But as a cruiser, I would look for either with neither tower, and certainly not the true, tall tuna tower. Try searching for "convertible" versus sportfish and listing agents and owners often mix and match the two.

My second boat was really a convertible but I often refer to it as a sportfish as people see that easier in their minds eye. It had the classic smaller cockpit and not much in the way of "fishability" options, but looked the same as many a sportfish without a tower from a distance

There are many designs that are similar to sportfish with a flybridge, aft cockpit and walk in salon.... any will provide the same living experience depending on what likes or dislikes you have with a particular model.

 

[Mako]

I don't think a sport fish/convertible would make a good "trawler" destined for a lowly 8 knots. They need dynamic stabilization which only comes at speed. When fishing/wallowing in big swells or trolling, they roll horribly. Plus the tiny itsy bisy rudders aren't very effective at slow speed. No keels either.

However, a good compromise would be a semi displacement moderate speed vessel.

For example, a Hatteras 53 CMY versus a Hatt 53 convertible. Neither is ideal at 8 knots, but one would be distinctly better than the other.

The good thing is that 53CMY's are plentiful and one could pick up a project boat, repower with a couple of 4 cylinder Kubotas, enlarge the rudders (say 50% or more), add stabilizers, and you'd be good to go for long coastal cruising.

 

[fgarriso]

Our plan for hurricanes season, was to either being on the hard some where in the Caribbean, or back in north Florida.

Sharked,
You might try looking at some of these boats to narrow down your budget and requirements.

https://www.curtisstokes.net/great-loop-boats-for-sale.html