Cooling System Overhaul

[Gulf Comanche]

When I replace the cooling sytem parts (water pump, heat exchanger, oil/gear oil cooler) I will replace the gaskets too. Do I need to coat the mating surfaces with some kind of goop to insure a good seal? Is this advisable? Same for the hoses, goop the insides to help it slide onto the pump? If so, any goop products that you like? Thanks in advance.
Mike
Baton Rouge

 

[Keith]

I use the blue silicone (higher temp) on my heat exchanger gaskets. The PO on my boat used a little regular clear silicone on the hoses and barbs. I don't know if he did it to seal, but it sure made them easy to get off years later! Some people think that's a plus, and some think it's dangerous as they might slip off too easily. You can decide. On more highly machined surfaces like a water pump, If you can clean both surfaces extremely clean, I'd just use the hard gasket if you're using one, otherwise some of the silicone gasket materials will work well if you're comfortable using them. The only danger there is putting too much glopped on, and the stuff oozes out inside then comes loose. Just a smidgen (technical term) of high temp silicone will never hurt though, just enough to make the surface glossy.

 

[Tidahapah]

Best practice is to ensure that both surfaces are totally clean, all previous jointing material removed surfaces mate very well,no lumps or bumps.
Smear a little grease EP2 , on either side of the gasket and tighten evenly.
This will ensure that the gasket comes off cleanly the next time it is removed.
Don't use grease on rubber jointing used in water systems.

Benn

 

[Keith]

KY jelly is a good lube when working with rubber hoses. Since it's water based, it won't hurt them and sure is slippery! Any that gets into the system instantly washes away.

 

[RED]

"KY Jelly is a good lube when working with rubber hoses"

Hmmm...Just how many "experiments" with small bore hoses did it take to develop this method, Keith?

 

[Gulf Comanche]

No "experiments" talk here please, take it to ODE. Somebody give me a name of high temp goop that I can use in this overhaul "experiment".

 

[Keith]

For the original group of parts you mentioned, you don't need any high temp goop that I can see. However, if you want to use one, Permatex has a black high temp gasket silicone that I use on my exhaust riser. I think it's good to 800 degrees F, but I could be off.

Oh, and as to how many experiments... Let's just say "enough".

-- Edited by Keith at 06:35, 2009-02-22

 

[FF]

Hoses put on clean will stick really well to metal after a while.

NOT AUTO hose clamps is a great investment , and don't tighten them too much.

A screw driver like tool with the hose clamp sized socket on the end is most versatile .

When you figure the size , by 4 and leave them taped where you can find them with water to your knees, in the dark.

FF

 

[BaltimoreLurker]

I just replaced all the coolant hoses and am prepping the ADC overflow recovery mod to my FL120. The KY Jelly worked great for slipping the new hoses on!* We'll see if it helps to get them back off in a few years.

The old set had become one with the metal pipe surfaces.* But I saw this coming and asked for a set of Craftsman hose picks for Christmas.* Highly recommended.

Yeah, I could have just cut the old hoses off with a utility knife, but it seemed so much more professional to do it the right way.

 

[Baker]

I would not think the KY method would work to get them off(Whoa....that sounded kinda kinky). KY is water based and over time will dissolve. The way I have always got hoses off was to use a screwdriver to gain access to the seal and just spray Boeshield in the crevasse created by the screwdriver. Open the a beer and relax to allow the Boeshield to penetrate and then the hose will slide right off. WOrks every time.

 

[BaltimoreLurker]

Baker wrote:
Open the a beer and relax to allow the Boeshield to penetrate and then the hose will slide right off. WOrks every time.

LOL!* That won't work for me.* I'm too anal.* When I'm working, I'm working.* When I pop a beer (actually, pour a G&T) work is OVER and the party starts!* Drives my friends nuts, but when they need a project done they know who to call.

 

[Keith]

The PO of my boat put a very thin coating of silicone caulk when he slipped the hoses on. I guess it acted like a lubricant putting them on, but I can tell you they all came off very easily when I removed them years later. Some people have commented this may make them TOO easy to come off...you decide. I used KY to put the new ones on though, and haven't had to remove any yet.

 

[Shoalwaters]

A thin film of grease on O-rings and hoses makes assembly easier and dismantling possible. As Bill K noted, oil-based grease can make some rubber components swell up and become unuseable. Pure silicone grease is suitable for all rubber products including O-rings, window seals etc. An 8oz tube of Sil-Glyde will last for ages. Available from Amazon, NAPA and Google.

 

[Steve]

I find that a light application of heat from a heat gun to the end of a stuck on hose will loosen it up a bit making it come off more easily. A light application to warm it up, not enough to cause scorching or other damage. I haven't tried it but have read a hair dryer will work also, maybe safer.
Steve Willett
Monk 36, Gumbo
Thibodaux, Luisiana

 

[Nomad Willy]

I admit a small amount of heat will help getting hoses on but all that other goop you guys are talking about is for old ladies. Just belly up to the bar and do the work. Get out your knives and screwdrivers, put a few bloody masculine marks on your'e knuckles - just do the work. It would be nice to have something to put on paper and similar gaskets when working w aluminum. Mechanical gasket removing like scraping tends to damage aluminum gasket surfaces. On a trawler one should choose an engine that doesn't have aluminum in the first place. I'm 69 and do have some use for lubricant but not on hoses and gaskets. Mr Webb's comment about 100% silicone grease w O rings may be good practice. With a bit more justification I would be tempted to do that w the O rings at the fuel filler fittings as they are practically flooded much of the time on the side decks* ..* bad Willard design. Once I did that it would be almost impossible to clean all the sand and dirt the silicone would attract. that brings me back to the don't use any goop place. In case your'e wondering* ..* I don't use tooth paste either.

Eric Henning