Changing shaft log o

[SeaMoose]

Just saw this. Most likely culprit is the aft coupling.

Remove prop. Most likely nuts on coupling will just shear off. You’ll need to cut two 3” diameter holes fwd of the coupling to get the threaded studs out. Unscrew the coupling. Remove the shaft from the transmission. Take the stuffing box apart.

Put a big bolt on the shaft and pull it out using a come-a-long through the hole in the rudder.

Unscrew the shaft and pull it out using the same technique.

Have the shaft checked for straightness, and the log checked for corrosion.

Make a perfectly flat smooth attachment surface for the coupling, put everything back together, 5200 behind the coupling and then fill with epoxy/cabosil where the new studs are, lay some foam or whatnot to fill the void where you cut the holes, plug the holes and you’re good to go.

There is no need to rip the boat apart unless the log is completely ruined.

When you haul the boat does water run out the aft coupling? There’s you sign!


Alan & Darina on Sea Moose

 

[JosieWhales]

Shaft log

During this refit every thru hull and below waterline fittings were completely deteriorated due to above deck water intrusion and diesel leaks. So all fittings plus thus stern tubes were easily removed. Cleaned up and rebeding applied.
That being said, our Port side stern tube was rushed with some confusion from help outside ( not her fault) we made a new bed with 5200 for the stern tube. We did all the proper prep before bedding. Got lucky on starboard side but should have a line or laser or the shaft in to get proper alignment for the shaft after full cure of the 5200.
The bellows on our pss are pinch witch means the stern tube is not centered with the shaft.
We found some spray that helps with starting over with the stern tube that breaks down the 5200. This is project without saying is not for those faint of heart. (Not sure where that saying comes from, maybe for another thread)
There's a backing plate outside the tube and easily accessible to unbolt. It's just removing all that new bedding that is stunningly difficult.

 

[maddox]

I’m just now reading your stern tube issue. By now you have probably replaced it. I had the same repair a few years back after my engine alignment caused the prop shaft to wear a 24” long slit in my stern tube. I changed it myself and it was difficult but very doable with patience. If I can help with any information please feel free to contact me

 

[Comodave]

We removed both shafts (twin diesels) and easily pryed our stern tubes off.
It had old stuffing boxes and during repacking realized after a better inspection that the stern tube needed rebeding. Just like every thru hull.
The mistake we made in rebeding port side with 5200 ( maybe a mistake on this side) is it wasnt completely straight with the shaft.
We converted to pss dripless shaft seals and the port side will now spray water do to be uncentered with shaft.
I suppose after time the carbon ring will work its self to proper seating but I don't want all that spray in the engine compartment.
Next project will be trying to remove the 5200 and rebed.

Yup, don’t use the demon 5200 on anything that might ever have to come off. It can be done but it is tough. Try some Debond.

 

[Comodave]

I am in the process of rebuilding one of my dripless logs now. I got the props off and sent out for repitching. Now I have to get the prop shaft coupler off. It is a tapered coupler with a nut set down inside the coupler. Looks like a 2” nut but a 2” socket will not fit down into the coupler. I need a really thin wall socket. Ordered one from Amazon but Fedex screwed me and it hasn’t come yet. What a socket, it costs $117. Hopefully it will come Monday and I can try to get the coupler off. Likely have to press it off once I get the nut off…

 

[PM]

It may not be as big of a job as you think,Start at the shaft log and just start digging. You may be surprised that the rotten wood and fiberglass is not as extensive as you think.

pete

 

[CharlieO.]

Dom, how did you make out on your replacement?

 

[douggairns]

No, I decided not to do it as I researched for about 6 months and called at least a dozen yards known to do it who all recommended don't bother.

Some of the jobs went easy and most were very difficult.

A few have posted here that they did it, one showing major cutouts of the hull alongside the shaft log and major jackhammering the concrete fuller out of the keel from the inside of the boat.

Some have experimented with liners and coating the old one with an epoxy filler/surface. Never say any good results over the long term....not that they were failures, just not enough data.

Check Charlie's Story and pics, he's just finished his and i'm going to be starting mine after it gets hauled out this afternoon! He's Charlie O in NY. he's in, or on here , I'm new to this so i can't help much yet lol but you can find his posts!!!!!!!

 

[douggairns]

Problem is are you the do it or sync it's leaking that bad?

cheap way!!!!!!!

 

[douggairns]

Willard 36 Hull #1 (1961) had this done in 1995 or so. I believe it was a bronze tube about 6-feet long (fiberglass would be better), mostly encased in concrete. I do not know why it needed replacement but it did. Was about $10k at the time in San Francisco Bay. So figure $20k-$25k in today's dollars. Its hard work, but much is simple grunt work (at least until the new tube needs to be installed and aligned).

The OP's posts are pretty cryptic. Sounds serious - not a lot of choice about doing this given the alternative. Longshot, but if this were caused by a grounding, perhaps there is an insurance claim possible?

Best of luck ----

Peter

this would work