Cetol - need advice on application

[HarbourReach]

I have a 1974 GB42 with exterior varnish in poor condition and I am considering switching to Cetol. I have zero experience with varnishing and want to minimise the maintenance. In return, I am prepared to accept a less-than-concours brightwork look.

To try out Cetol, I removed the stern gate handrail, removed the varnish and applied 3 coats of Cetol Marine Light. Since the surface still showed the grain marks, I applied a further two coats. The surface is still not "smooth". It looks like the Cetol is not buiding up on the pith between the grain. I have tried to capture this in the attached photos.

I the sanded with 220 grit to try to get a surface without the sunken lines. I was only able to achieve this by getting down to the bare wood again. The Cetol sanded of relatively easily and the sandings had a rubbery look.

Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong?

Hello from HarbourReach,
I have been a loyal user of Cetol for about 20 years.
For a long time I cursed the fact that Cetol seemed to take forever to dry. But once it did dry, it lasted a long time with occasional recoating.
What I have learned, by experience is:
1) preclean surface with 216 solvent
2) sand or scrape as needed to get a good surface
3) clean again with 216 to remove all contamination
4) allow 216 to completely evaporate, at least an hour
5) coat with natural teak
6) when dry clean with 216, lightly scuff with 330 paper, clean again with 216, then recoat with natural teak
7) my experience is that the thorough cleaning as above allows the Cetol to dry for light sanding
8) repeat the clean, scuff sand, clean, let 216 evaporate, then coat with Cetol Gloss as many times as you like. Gloss is NOT recommended as a base coat, ONLY as a top coat for natural teak (+ some others I can't remember)
Regarding the "problem" of filling the grain. Different pieces of teak differ wildly in their grain characteristics. On my 1975 Pacific Trawler I have finished teak with high gloss smooth finish and teak with lumps from the grain (light sanding with a block helps somewhat to level the surface, but as has been said, it is a boat.
As a tip, I was prepared to go through quarts of 216 solvent, BUT, I tried using a small plastic water bottle with a snap closure to hold the 216 solvent. What an easy way to dispense the solvent onto a paper towel! Pop the top, tip a little onto the paper towel, pop the top closed. Stored solvent doesn't evaporate, no worries about dropping the can, etc. I would test drive the water bottle and solvent combo to make sure they are compatible (I guess I was just lucky, or maybe they all would work).
For repair of damaged spots I prefer to use a small scraper as opposed to sandpaper to prepare the surface. Easy to control, easy to taper the edge of remaining finish. I really like the small snap off blade knives and/or a 3/8 wide wood chisel for the small repairs.
Remember to clean with 216 before you scrape !
Bill

 

[GB32Seattle]

I have a 1974 GB42 with exterior varnish in poor condition and I am considering switching to Cetol. I have zero experience with varnishing and want to minimise the maintenance. In return, I am prepared to accept a less-than-concours brightwork look.

To try out Cetol, I removed the stern gate handrail, removed the varnish and applied 3 coats of Cetol Marine Light. Since the surface still showed the grain marks, I applied a further two coats. The surface is still not "smooth". It looks like the Cetol is not buiding up on the pith between the grain. I have tried to capture this in the attached photos.

I the sanded with 220 grit to try to get a surface without the sunken lines. I was only able to achieve this by getting down to the bare wood again. The Cetol sanded of relatively easily and the sandings had a rubbery look.

Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong?

I am trying Total Boat Halcyon water based varnish, which makes cleanup easy. So far it is OK. Goes on easily. It does not get as smooth a finish as traditional varnish, but you can do multiple coats in a day and it looks good. I'll have to wait a year and see what I really think. GB32-277 1972

 

[MV Avalon]

I’ve been using exclusively Sikkens Akzo Nobel products for 35 years and regularly receive compliments, from closer than 10’. The first 22 years on a 1984 Tayana 37, the last 13 years on our Transpac Eagle 40, Avalon.
On purchasing Avalon we stripped what varnish was on her down to bare teak(caprail, trim on all three doors, the doors themselves were replaced with Bomon foam core aluminum doors, and eyebrows). I applied two coats of Sikkens Natural Dek Seal, yep, just like on your BBQ deck at home, using a green scrubby lightly between coats. Followed with four coats of Cetol Gloss, lightly scuffing with the green scrubby and a tac cloth between coats. After the first year I green scrubby scuff and apply two coats. We ain’t building’ no fine cabinet here, it’s bloody cruising boat by gawd! Yes the grain won’t fill but it wears extremely well, I try to add a coat every other year but sometimes that doesn’t happen. I’d rather go spear fishing than do varnish work and the COB is happy. And you know what they say about a happy wife…

 

[Blissboat]

I'm just not going to spend what it takes of my remaining time on this ocean world to do that again . . .

Ditto. In the same spirit, life is too short to spend any part of it walking around behind a lawn mower.

 

[scope1969]

Last summer I sanded my 34' Californian down to bare wood and then applied a TEAK sealer, then 3 coats of Cetol without any sanding between coats...just a 24 hour dry between each coat over 3 days and did not use a gloss top coat. I am happy with it and as far as I understand, I just need a light sand and 1 coat each year to maintain.

 

[BobMc]

I have a 1974 GB42 with exterior varnish in poor condition and I am considering switching to Cetol. I have zero experience with varnishing and want to minimise the maintenance. In return, I am prepared to accept a less-than-concours brightwork look.

To try out Cetol, I removed the stern gate handrail, removed the varnish and applied 3 coats of Cetol Marine Light. Since the surface still showed the grain marks, I applied a further two coats. The surface is still not "smooth". It looks like the Cetol is not buiding up on the pith between the grain. I have tried to capture this in the attached photos.

I used Cetol for years on Sanderling. Sounds like you're doing everything correctly, EXCEPT, you should add several coats of gloss or semi-gloss following your coats of Cetol light. That will fill in the grain and achieve the look you hope for.

Keep in mind, you'll need to give a very light sanding and recoat with gloss/semi-gloss periodically; here in Florida that meant about every 6 months at the longest. It's a great product. FWIW, we preferred the look of Cetol Natural, but that's a personal choice; Cetol Light is a close second.

 

[scope1969]

NOTE: Do your homework but according a simple google search - Drying time: Allow 24 hours drying time between coats. Do not sand between coats of Cetol, as it can reduce the effectiveness of the UV protection.

Google Search

 

[scope1969]

I HAVE ALSO HEARD THAT RATHER THAN A LIGHT SAND FOR MAINTENANCE COATS, YOU CAN JUST ROUGH UP WITH SCOTCH BRITE AFTER CLEANING, THEN ADD ANOTHER COAT (NO SANDING)...

 

[grahamdouglass]

I used to use Cetol but I find it turned orange. When I redid my hand rails and cap rails I sanded down to bare wood and used 2 coats of epoxy sealer (S1). The first coat should be thinned with 10% methyl hydrate. I then layer on Eppiphanes gloss high UV 25% varnish and 75% brushing thinner. I increase the varnish component. The goal is 8 coats the first year and one coat every year after that.