Capilano 250v Troubleshooting

[Uniflite4me]

Hi all. Been reading many previous posts but none seem to cover the issue I am experiencing. I suddenly lost steering while docking. Helm would feel pressure turning to port but would freewheel turning to starboard. I then discovered a leaking cylinder so I rebuilt it. No problem.

Now opened 2 screws on U50 valve and no fluid coming out. Added 9 qts atf so far. Still same helm feel as before; slight tension to port and free wheels to starboard.
A; what should capacity of dual helm system roughly be?
B; Why would it freewheel to one side?
C; Why no fluid bleeding thru Univalve?

Any help greatly appreciated.
TY

 

[Uniflite4me]

Update; after days of searching for a leak somewhere I finally found a leaking copper line located behind an inaccessible bulkhead, of course. Replaced both line from T fitting to steering ram. Bypassing both old copper lines. System works fine. Phew.

 

[Phil Fill]

When we replaced hydraulic steering lined we also left the old lines and ran new lines.
The old lines where under the engines start battery bank and the acid made small holes in the line. 5 hous a couple grand lighter the hydraulic hoses were replaced.

Should only take a couple quarts to fill system. Good to hear you found leak. I check the reservoir level before i leave the dock and steering is tight.

 

[SeaGator]

If you have a Uniflow 50 valve, that means you have an older 3-line copper tubing system. CAUTION: That Uni 50 valve is gold and cannot be replaced if you tamper with it or it goes bad. Finding another one in an old boatyard is like finding a needle in a haystack. If it does go bad you will have to convert to a 2-line system which means you have to change your helm station(s) steering pump.

You can somewhat easily replace your steering hydraulic fluid lines with modern synthetic flexible lines from Parker Racor. Not cheap, but way easier than replacing copper with copper. I did mine a couple of years ago and the hardest thing was running the new lines the length of the boat in crazy hard to get to places.

 

[ronobrien]

If you have a Uniflow 50 valve, that means you have an older 3-line copper tubing system. CAUTION: That Uni 50 valve is gold and cannot be replaced if you tamper with it or it goes bad. Finding another one in an old boatyard is like finding a needle in a haystack. If it does go bad you will have to convert to a 2-line system which means you have to change your helm station(s) steering pump.

You can somewhat easily replace your steering hydraulic fluid lines with modern synthetic flexible lines from Parker Racor. Not cheap, but way easier than replacing copper with copper. I did mine a couple of years ago and the hardest thing was running the new lines the length of the boat in crazy hard to get to places.

The only caution with using all nylon lines is that over longer runs the nylon will flex under pressure and reduce the amount of hydraulic effort at the cylinder, which feels like air in the system but there is no remedy. That is the reason they suggest CU for longer runs. I have never experienced this only what I read about the installation so I don't know what length it happens at or how badly it effects the steering. Just a word of caution is all. If you decide to use CU be aware of the ASTME standard that is required for the pressure being applied. I just converted from cable to hydraulic (Seastar) and got the correct CU piping from Grainger.

 

[SeaGator]

The only caution with using all nylon lines is that over longer runs the nylon will flex under pressure and reduce the amount of hydraulic effort at the cylinder, which feels like air in the system but there is no remedy. That is the reason they suggest CU for longer runs. I have never experienced this only what I read about the installation so I don't know what length it happens at or how badly it effects the steering. Just a word of caution is all. If you decide to use CU be aware of the ASTME standard that is required for the pressure being applied. I just converted from cable to hydraulic (Seastar) and got the correct CU piping from Grainger.

That is simply not true. Please quote manufacturers specifications when posting information like this. The Parker Racor synthetic hydraulic line I refer to is rated at 1,000 PSI, is made specifically for marine steering and is unaffected from saltwater, like copper. Never replace vulnerable long runs with copper if possible. When get the chance I will post pictures of my conversion. The run was 42' for the longest section that I needed.

Glad the original poster found his leak and has it repaired. Older copper that is corroding from salt environs will continue to fail. The Parker Racor line isn't cheap, and you need to have fittings swaged on for best results.

 

[ronobrien]

That is simply not true. Please quote manufacturers specifications when posting information like this. The Parker Racor synthetic hydraulic line I refer to is rated at 1,000 PSI, is made specifically for marine steering and is unaffected from saltwater, like copper. Never replace vulnerable long runs with copper if possible. When get the chance I will post pictures of my conversion. The run was 42' for the longest section that I needed.

Glad the original poster found his leak and has it repaired. Older copper that is corroding from salt environs will continue to fail. The Parker Racor line isn't cheap, and you need to have fittings swaged on for best results.

I was quoting manufacturers specification. Seastar specified the tubing type in their installation instructions, with a specific ASTME standard and a rating of 1000 psi. I didn't just make this up. I was in contact with an engineer from Dometic during the equipment specification stage, and asked for the reasoning behind using copper on long runs and that was the explanation he gave. Yes the nylon tubing is specific and expensive but very good with some limitations, and again this was the specific instruction from Dometic/Seastar. Dometic's instructions are available on line for anyone to see.