Can Racor fuel water separator filters go bad

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Offshore

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Specially " dual " filter set up.
You are only using one filter at a time but you have a filter installed in each Racor.
How long can the unused filter sit unused and still be good for use ?
Would it be better to leave the unused Racor without filter until needed ?
 
Specially " dual " filter set up.
You are only using one filter at a time but you have a filter installed in each Racor.
How long can the unused filter sit unused and still be good for use ?
Would it be better to leave the unused Racor without filter until needed ?
There was a thread on this a year or two ago. From an email sent to Racor, the element doesn't go bad or become less effective from sitting in fuel.

Someone also commented that they only charge the element when it plugs, every 10 years or so. :eek: I would guess 5 years wouldn't be a problem. At <$12, I switched the valve annually and replaced the used one, so two years.

Ted
 
Some place I read (from Parker itself) that any with the Aquabloc treatment should be used within a year of opening the plastic wrapping.

What wasn't discussed was whether it sitting in diesel fuel mattered as there would be less or no oxidation....but not sure that is what degrades the Aquabloc treatment.

Ted's post says it must be so...but then again I have just come across so many contradictory answers from manufacturers lately.

Me, I would probably still swap them both out annually or nearly so.
 
I've read the same from Parker that the filter aquabloc treatment has a life of one year. However, I can't find that reference again and at the time it was discussed earlier, as Ted mentioned a Parker rep emailed that the filter would be fine sitting in diesel.

I have been replacing the active filter with a new filter every year, then making the reserve filter the active filter. So the filter I'm currently using has been sitting in fuel for a year before going into service. This is likely over-kill as I've never had any increase in vacuum as the filter has aged. Still, it is relatively easy and cheap to replace one each year and frankly is the only time that I do a close insplection of the filter housings, connections and lines in that area. Otherwise, I'm just glancing at the bowl and vacuum drag needle.
 
We generally change them annually, but I put fuel on in Mazatlan, Mexico last year, and went through two filters (main and spare) in the 400 gallons burned, (30 days or so) after the fill up. They clogged the filters into the red on the vacuum gauge in no time. Previous filters had been there for 2.5 years an still showed only a little off of the peg, so we definitely picked up some particulate from the Mazatlan fuel. We DID run their tanks dry, only got about 430 gallons doing that, so it was "scraping the bottom of the barrel", so to speak. I never saw any visible accumulation on the filters, but it was there all the same.
 
At the risk of repeating myself, the filter elements are very inexpensive in the relative cost of boating. It makes no sense to have a redundant backup system if it's not ready to go in the flip of a lever. Whatever you choose for filter element life expectancy, setup your system to utilize each filter half of its life expectancy.

The last thought on this subject is that Racor likely substantially underrates the life expectancy to sell more elements and not have to deal with warranty life expectancy claims.

Ted
 
I have a dual Racor 1000. I use 2 micron filters. Run on one for the season. I switch to the good filter at the end of the year to run new, clean fuel through the filter before the the boat is hauled for the winter.

At the beginning of the new season I change the dirty filter, which is now my spare. So technically each filter is installed for 2 years, but only used for one season. When the one is swapped in the spring, it becomes the spare and I am running with 2 clean filters.

I mix fuel stabilizer, startron, and anti-biocides in the diesel jerry can that I used to prime the filters during the change.
 
I saw your post on the AGLCA. I will not repeat the opinion posted there. I will add to it.

Racor recommendation :
As a guideline, change a fuel filter element every 500 hours, every other oil change, annually, or at first indication of power loss, whichever occurs first. Ideally, you use a vacuum gauge to monitor filter restriction, and change your filter when the gauge reads 5 to 8 inHg above the starting vacuum (about 7 to 10 inHg is typical). This insures that your filter is still removing water at high efficiency.

Most engine manufactures recommend
Cummins

300 Hours or 1 Year​

  • Fuel Water Separator Element – Replace
  • Fuel Filter (Spin-On Type) – Change

Volvo Penta
Every 200 hours / at least once a year,
  • Fuelfilter/fuelpre-filter.Change.

Yanmar recommendations, you should replace your marine fuel filter every 300 engine hours (or 250 hours on some models) or once a year, whichever comes first;

If you want to know how long your filter can stay idle without use. I would say 200 to 500 hours of engine use or once year. That is when you should switch over to the other filter and start to use it. You have a good install. Two filter primary filter system. Use it, there may be a day that you find you are glad you did!! Not all Fuel docks have good fresh fuel that are regularly inspected. Even if they are every time your fuel fill fitting is opened there is a chance of contamination.

:
 
I saw your post on the AGLCA. I will not repeat the opinion posted there. I will add to it.

Racor recommendation :
As a guideline, change a fuel filter element every 500 hours, every other oil change, annually, or at first indication of power loss, whichever occurs first. Ideally, you use a vacuum gauge to monitor filter restriction, and change your filter when the gauge reads 5 to 8 inHg above the starting vacuum (about 7 to 10 inHg is typical). This insures that your filter is still removing water at high efficiency.

Most engine manufactures recommend
Cummins

300 Hours or 1 Year​

  • Fuel Water Separator Element – Replace
  • Fuel Filter (Spin-On Type) – Change

Volvo Penta
Every 200 hours / at least once a year,
  • Fuelfilter/fuelpre-filter.Change.

Yanmar recommendations, you should replace your marine fuel filter every 300 engine hours (or 250 hours on some models) or once a year, whichever comes first;

If you want to know how long your filter can stay idle without use. I would say 200 to 500 hours of engine use or once year. That is when you should switch over to the other filter and start to use it. You have a good install. Two filter primary filter system. Use it, there may be a day that you find you are glad you did!! Not all Fuel docks have good fresh fuel that are regularly inspected. Even if they are every time your fuel fill fitting is opened there is a chance of contamination.

:
I would assume the above manufacturers are referring to their higher tier engines with high pressure common rail fuel injection that require sub 2 micron fuel purification.

Ted
 
I would assume the above manufacturers are referring to their higher tier engines with high pressure common rail fuel injection that require sub 2 micron fuel purification.

Ted
In general most engine manufactures recommend pre-filters or primary filters change annually or between 250 hr to 500 hrs. This recommendation is also suggested by Racor. I believe the annual portion of the recommendation is hard to dispute although some do. The hour interval can be debated. I have a mechanical injection 4LHA STP Yanmar (so not common rail) It has a secondary filter that is 10 Micron (the manufactures spec is 8Micron) The filter replacement recommendation is once a year or every 250hours.

I believe when it comes to recommendations the boat owner needs to use some discretion when deciding on a preventative maintenance program. There is a difference between the fuel filter used for an engine that is burning 8 to10 GPH or more and an engine that is burning 2 GPH. I realize there is some return fuel back to the tank so there is more fuel passing through the filter than burned. The amount of fuel the lift pump, pumps changes by engine speed if the lift pump is mechanical driven by the engine. The faster the engine runs the more volume it pumps to maintain the pressure requirement. Common rail is an electric pump that is regulated. My point is when I am cruising at an average 1500 rpm in my Pilot Mainship for 250 hours burning 1.9 gph per engine. The filter has not filtered has many gallons of fuel as if I cruised at an average rpm of 2700 rpm for 250 hours burning 7.5 gph per engine. So I may be able to do filter replacements at a higher hour interval when cruising slower. For my use I usually start seeing an increase in vacuum at about 170 hours. I use conservative preventative maintenance filter changes, annually, 250 hr or when needed. My way of determining when needed is vacuum reading at WOT engine operation exceeds 8 in Hg. After I change the fuel filter, during my first run I push the throttles to WOT for about 5 minutes. The tell-tail on the gauge moves normally up to 2 to 3 in Hg (starting point of clean filter). I occasionally run the engines up to max power to do performance checks temps, boost, oil pressure, rpm when I do this I check the vacuum gauge at the end of the run. When I see the tell-tail increase to 8 in Hg @ max power it is time to start thinking about changing the primary. I use a 10 Micron filter so I get better life out of the secondary which is much harder and time consuming to change. I do not have a pressure gauge between my lift pump and secondary filter so I have no way of knowing if it is fouled. My maintenance change interval for the secondary is 500 hours or once a year. I am conservative when it comes to fuel filters. The filters are cheap and the components that the filters are protecting are expensive. I'm not full time cruising in my boat. I have owned the Mainship for 4 years and cruised in it for 3 years logging just under 900 hours. I have replaced the filters several times in the 3 years of cruising. Cheap insurance in my opinion.
 
In general most engine manufactures recommend pre-filters or primary filters change annually or between 250 hr to 500 hrs. This recommendation is also suggested by Racor. I believe the annual portion of the recommendation is hard to dispute although some do. The hour interval can be debated. I have a mechanical injection 4LHA STP Yanmar (so not common rail) It has a secondary filter that is 10 Micron (the manufactures spec is 8Micron) The filter replacement recommendation is once a year or every 250hours.

I believe when it comes to recommendations the boat owner needs to use some discretion when deciding on a preventative maintenance program. There is a difference between the fuel filter used for an engine that is burning 8 to10 GPH or more and an engine that is burning 2 GPH. I realize there is some return fuel back to the tank so there is more fuel passing through the filter than burned. The amount of fuel the lift pump, pumps changes by engine speed if the lift pump is mechanical driven by the engine. The faster the engine runs the more volume it pumps to maintain the pressure requirement. Common rail is an electric pump that is regulated. My point is when I am cruising at an average 1500 rpm in my Pilot Mainship for 250 hours burning 1.9 gph per engine. The filter has not filtered has many gallons of fuel as if I cruised at an average rpm of 2700 rpm for 250 hours burning 7.5 gph per engine. So I may be able to do filter replacements at a higher hour interval when cruising slower. For my use I usually start seeing an increase in vacuum at about 170 hours. I use conservative preventative maintenance filter changes, annually, 250 hr or when needed. My way of determining when needed is vacuum reading at WOT engine operation exceeds 8 in Hg. After I change the fuel filter, during my first run I push the throttles to WOT for about 5 minutes. The tell-tail on the gauge moves normally up to 2 to 3 in Hg (starting point of clean filter). I occasionally run the engines up to max power to do performance checks temps, boost, oil pressure, rpm when I do this I check the vacuum gauge at the end of the run. When I see the tell-tail increase to 8 in Hg @ max power it is time to start thinking about changing the primary. I use a 10 Micron filter so I get better life out of the secondary which is much harder and time consuming to change. I do not have a pressure gauge between my lift pump and secondary filter so I have no way of knowing if it is fouled. My maintenance change interval for the secondary is 500 hours or once a year. I am conservative when it comes to fuel filters. The filters are cheap and the components that the filters are protecting are expensive. I'm not full time cruising in my boat. I have owned the Mainship for 4 years and cruised in it for 3 years logging just under 900 hours. I have replaced the filters several times in the 3 years of cruising. Cheap insurance in my opinion.
While I do prescribe to annual filter changes on the engine and the separator, the OP was questioning whether a filter could remain in fuel longer unused, the redundant filter. In another thread, this issue was addressed from correspondence from Racor.

In addition, the hour duration is also subject to filter size relative to fuel pump flow, and cleanliness of the fuel. As an example, my 132 HP engine used a dual Racor 1000 separator. The 1000 Racor has 6 times the flow rate of the fuel pump and over 10 times the filter surface. So, hours without consideration to which separator become relatively meaningless.

Ted
 
While I do prescribe to annual filter changes on the engine and the separator, the OP was questioning whether a filter could remain in fuel longer unused, the redundant filter. In another thread, this issue was addressed from correspondence from Racor.

In addition, the hour duration is also subject to filter size relative to fuel pump flow, and cleanliness of the fuel. As an example, my 132 HP engine used a dual Racor 1000 separator. The 1000 Racor has 6 times the flow rate of the fuel pump and over 10 times the filter surface. So, hours without consideration to which separator become relatively meaningless.

Ted
Ted,
I fully agree with your post. In your case, 132hp diesel with dual Racor 1000 series filter, clean fuel system 30 micron and even 10 micron. Engine hours is meaningless for filter change. Annual change is in my opinion and yours along with most engine and Racor recommended at a minimum annually . In my case 240 hp, 500 series racor filter, 10 micron element hours are not meaningless if preventative maintenance is followed. I see an increase in vacuums @ about 170hrs and use 250 hr as my guideline. Each and every member on this forum may have a different answer based on their set up. As a member giving an answer or an opinion we primarily post what our experiences are or what our opinions are based on the information given by the OP.

The OP has given little information, size engines or engine?, what size filters are used ?, and frequency of filter changes that he practices?.
The questions asked:
How long can the unused filter sit unused and still be good for use ?

Would it be better to leave the unused Racor without filter until needed ?

You answered the first question: Racor responded in a email,
"the element doesn't go bad or become less effective from sitting in fuel."

I believe this to be true but I also believe that the fuel in the filter will degrade over a period of time. If it is clean uncontaminated fuel, the filter is not in a warm engine compartment the fuel should be usable for a year or so.

The second answer to the OP question was my long explanation in previous posts!!! It should have been done by saying use both filters. You never know when you will need it. If you never need it switch over to the unused filter annually.

This is not what I do because I know what engines and filters I use and what my go to maintenance is. I have no idea what the OP has or uses. In your case annual filter switch over hours are meaningless, works based on your experience with your engine and filters.
 
Racor responded in a email,
"the element doesn't go bad or become less effective from sitting in fuel."
I find this comment from Racor interesting. Why then say change annually or every 250 hours. What is then the difference if it takes 3 years to get to 250 hours if the filter does not go bad sitting in fuel the extra 2 years. (as an example)
 
I have had Racor elements last way more than a year without any problems.
 
I find this comment from Racor interesting. Why then say change annually or every 250 hours. What is then the difference if it takes 3 years to get to 250 hours if the filter does not go bad sitting in fuel the extra 2 years. (as an example)
I think you missed their point.

The recommendation is to change a filter annually that is having fuel pulled through the filter. The debris being removed from the filter (deposited on the surface of the filter) is reducing the remaining life and eventually the flow rate of the filter.

The second part of the statement speaks to the immersion in fuel with no flow through the filter.

The annual change recommendation probably speaks to some systems not having vacuum gauges and the consumer not being accurately able to predict the amount of time remaining before the filter reduces flow.

One final point:
While the engine may have enough flow to support internal combustion, the fuel returning to the tank, cools some injection systems. A reduction of flow may overheat and damage some injection pumps.

Ted
 
IMHO, the filter material will not likely break down. My issue is how old the fuel is in the filter housing by the time it gets used.
 
IMHO, the filter material will not likely break down. My issue is how old the fuel is in the filter housing by the time it gets used.
A good practice is to switch filters for 10 minutes and switch back, every few months to maintain fresh fuel and verify the backup system and its valving.

Ted
 
I don't subscribe to filter replacement by hours, it's not logical. Obviously a 1000 hp running for 500 hours uses way more fuel than a 30 HP engine running for 500 hrs. If you have to change your Racor filter element after running less than 1000 gallons of fuel through it, then it's very likely your tank is contaminated.

This question of fuel (or oil for that matter) filter elements deteriorating or disintegrating, or somehow going bad, has been around for decades. Because of that, 17 years ago I placed a Racor 500 element into a mason's jar of diesel fuel. It's been there, sitting un my shop, ever since, with no visible signs of deterioration. I'm not recommending this, I'm simply saying that it's probably not an issue. Caveat, that it is a genuine OEM Racor element.

I've personally replaced hundreds of filter elements in my career, many of which have been badly neglected and not replaced in years, and never have I encountered an element that had lost its structural integrity.

My recommendation, change fuel filters, primary and secondary, when absolute (not relative to the starting point) primary vacuum reaches 5-7 in. of hg., with the above mentioned 1000 gal threshold taken into account. Engines with diaphragm lift pumps have the lowest vacuum threshold, while engines with gear lift pumps are able to endure far higher vacuum, however, I'm not endorsing this. Chronic high vacuum can lead to injection pump cavitation, and damage.

You can test vacuum gauge operation by slowly closing the selector or supply valve, while the engine is idling in neutral, while monitoring the gauge, it should rise slowly.

Filter elements are pretty cheap, so if you don't meet one of the above thresholds, I'd replace them after no more than 2 years.

Note, I have encountered a couple of cases where electric lift pumps installed before primary fuel filters, which are used continuously, causing inaccurate, low vacuum gauge readings, and erratic engine operation, or even sudden shut down.

Finally, both Racor/Parker and every engine manufacturer I've encountered, call for the use of 10 or 30 micron elements in primary filters. 2 micron elements are strictly for secondary filtration.

More here...

Filter Service: How Often Should Fuel and Air Filters be Changed? | Steve D'Antonio Marine Consulting

Primary Fuel Filters 2, 10, 30 Microns? | Steve D'Antonio Marine Consulting

 
I found cutting open a primary filter after a season to be informative - minimal trash evident when I rolled out the filter element in the driveway. No surprise, as I had the fuel polished a couple of seasons before. Given some days on lumpy seas, I presumed that trash in the tanks would have been partially evident in the primary filter. Going by the "change every year", and buying fuel at a high volume, reputable fuel dealer/marinas, we've been "lucky" for years.
 
You are only risking your yourself, crew and boat by leaving a filter canister empty without an element in it. Try explaining to your insurance company that you drifted into the rock jetty because you were afraid to have your secondary filter set up out of paranoia. Even if you throw it away unused, you are talking what, $10 or $15? Just say'n...
 
I like to rotate my stock.. I have the dual racor setup. I have 3 years on my racors this season . I only changed them to check them out. I was only1/2 way up the green in the vacuum gauges. I installed new into the currently used racor. Turned them off and turned on the one with the 3 year old filters. This way if I need to swap the filter I am swapping to a newer filter. This way I will never have a system that I switch to a New 10 year old filter either. I think cycling the filters is also good to make sure it is working properly, no stuck valves, etc.
 
This question of fuel (or oil for that matter) filter elements deteriorating or disintegrating, or somehow going bad, has been around for decades. Because of that, 17 years ago I placed a Racor 500 element into a mason's jar of diesel fuel. It's been there, sitting un my shop, ever since, with no visible signs of deterioration. I'm not recommending this, I'm simply saying that it's probably not an issue. Caveat, that it is a genuine OEM Racor element.
Racor doesn't say the filter goes bad or falls apart. Only that the Aquabloc material doesn't work as well at rejecting water with age. I don't know how to test that easily, but keeping one in a mason jar doesn't test that feature.
 
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