Buying a Pacific Trawler

[Jay N]

Recently, I've had a couple of inquiries about possible purchases of Pacific Trawlers, and wanted to share my responses with others who may also be thinking about a purchase.

The following inquiry asked for*comparison with specific full displacement boats:

The Pacific Trawler is a different kind of boat than the full displacement Willard and Krogen models you mentioned. While I don't have any time on a Krogen 42, I have been onboard a friends Willard 30 some years ago out of Edmonds. The semi-displacement/hard chine Pacific Trawler will almost always roll less, the hard chines act as stabilizers especially if you are able to keep your speed up. If you are unable to keep your speed up, it acts very much like a displacement boat. Very sloppy in 5-6 foot waves.
From my perspective and experience (55 years of boating), I view displacement boats like the Willard and Krogen as more desirable boats to have during rough conditions, although the Willard is physically small so there is not that much of an advantage. One of the main differences in rough conditions, is where there is a following sea. The Pacific Trawler has a square stern, and a somewhat small rudder, and not suprisingly, is harder to control in this condition. All square stern boats tend to suffer from the same problem.
*
Having said this, there have been transits of these boats along the West and East Coasts. One boat based in California used to come north to Puget Sound, British Columbia and SE Alaska every other year. They subsequently took the boat to the East Coast via Panama, and are currently in the Bahamas. They have equipped their boat with active stabilizers, and are the clear exception to ocean cruising.
*
The answer (at least for us) is to only cruise when conditions are expected to make boating enjoyable, this means max 4 footers, although we have frequently waited for better conditions (We try to cruise without a schedule). In our trips to SE Alaska, we make sure conditions are good before crossing open ocean waters. By minimizing exposure to rough sea conditions, the positive attributes of the Pacific Trawler become very attractive.
*
The features that we consider important: Ability to safely single handle, no side decks which provides an enlarged saloon, good comfort for 2 crew (only occasional guests, and they need to be good shipmates), good storage for fuel/water/provisions (we can easily go 10-14 days before a marina/store), relatively easy engine and systems maintenance access, a tender storage on the boat deck, and minimal stairs (we don't have a fly bridge). Also, we typically boat through the winter in Puget Sound and southern B.C., so a good heating system is critical.
*
One telling observation about Pacific Trawlers compared with the Willard 30 and Krogen 42: I know of only the one Pacific Trawler that has active stabilizers, there is an additional boat that had passive stabilizers a number of years ago for an owner who used it to fish off the W Coast of Vancouver I. I have seen a couple of passive stabilized Willard 30's, but almost all Krogen 42's have active or passive stabilization.
*
The following inquiry from sailboaters asked for*general information about a used Pacific Trawler:
*

I've noticed that a large number of Pacific Trawler owners have come from sailing vessels.* The best information I can give to answer your questions is to just give you my impressions as a 14-year Pacific Trawler owner.
*
Some quick history:* About 20 boats were produced in the mid-1970's in California, then about 35 boats were produced in Washington State from 1997 to 2003.* The PT 40 came from the Washington production, they simply added 3 more feet to the existing 37 foot mold.* A semi-production boat, new owners had a range of options in interior layout and equipment.* One thing that characterized the Washington boats, is that the interior design was by Lynn Seynour of Nordic Tug, so there is a similarity of interior space with* Nordic Tugs.
*
About half of the Washington boats have a fly bridge, all are single engine diesel with a bow thruster.* Close quarters boat handling is excellent with this package.* The Washington boats also had wedges installed at the transom to mimic the effect of trim tabs, so that with enough power, the boat can plane.* As with any semi-displacement planing boat, fuel consumption is high when planing (around 12 gph at 12 knots requiring* a 300+HP engine).* Almost every owner I know tends to cruise at 8 knots or below, which provides around 2-3 miles per gallon.* Range at 7.5 knots is around 1000 miles.
*
I believe that the vessel offers a good set of compromises for inland/coastal cruising.* It is not meant for ocean cruising with it's square stern, but this gives it the interior room of a longer vessel.**
*
The features that we consider important:* Ability to safely single handle, no side decks which provides an enlarged saloon, good comfort for 2 crew (only occasional guests, and they need to be good shipmates), good storage for fuel/water/provisions (we can easily go 10-14 days before a marina/store), relatively easy engine and systems maintenance access, a tender storage on the boat deck, and minimal stairs (we don't have a fly bridge).
*
We don't go out in rough water, but the boat serves well if we get caught.* Any steep waves 5 foot and over can be uncomfortable.* During our trips from Seattle to SE Alaska, there are about 5 large water crossings, and we've been known to occasionally wait for better conditions (our type of boating is meant to be enjoyable!).

We typically boat through the winter in Puget Sound and southern B.C., a good heating system is critical.
*
As with any used boat, a good survey will hopefully expose how well the boat has been used and maintained.* We average around 300 engine hours/year and have over 5400 hours on the engine.* Don't be concerned with looking at at boat with high engine hours, we expect our engine to go 12-15000 hours before it needs major servicing.* Good maintenance is a much larger factor with respect to reliability.

 

[Slice13551]

Pacific Trawler

Jay,

There is so little information on this boat available on the web. Can you share with us any information you have or can link to that document the build methods for the hull specifically the use of wood as core material anywhere on the boat? I'm intrested in the older models built in California.

-Robert

 

[Nomad Willy]

Jay N,
Very good summary and I like the PT a lot and agree w you fully about the side decks. We have a W30 Nomad w the sinful side decks and wish we had the wide body Voyager.

I really like the PT boat but not the very straight and quite flat bottom. The stern wedges you mention are for very fast boats and are a negative on any trawler that I can think of. Just extra drag and could push the bow into the next wave on following seas (subject to trim weight) specifically large ones. If the PT had considerable rocker making it closer to a displacement hull then I'd REALLY want one.

Only other criticism of the PT that I can think of is that w the wheelhouse that far fwd it very likely would be wet and have excessive heaving and acceleration/deceleration in head seas. But if I were shopping I'd be telling myself that those conditions, however not rare do apply to a fairly small amount of time underway in the PNW. Most of the time one would be enjoying the very large and friendly spaces that configuration deliver.

But for the service you describe the PT looks like a great boat to have and spend time on.

My favorite boat (NT32) is also a Lynn Seynour design as and most everything I've said about the PT applies to as well.

 

[Jay N]

"There is so little information on this boat available on the web. Can you share with us any information you have or can link to that document the build methods for the hull specifically the use of wood as core material anywhere on the boat? I'm intrested in the older models built in California.

-Robert"

Hi Robert,

Unfortunately, there are not any readily available documentation on the specific construction methods used in the older California boats. Maybe other owners of these vessels would be able to tell you more about it.

The only things that I can offer are somewhat speculative: A number of the California boats were constructed with fiberglass liners that encapsulated the fuel and water tankage; and I am led to understand that all of the California boats have hulls with end-grain balsa coring between fiberglass layers, along with most of the house and decks.

Stringers and tank supports in WESTERLY (California 1974) are encapsulated wood (no fiberglass liner), but I don't know about the wood itself. Bulkheads are plywood.

As with all cored boats, the integrity of hardware that penetrates the core is the most important factor. Based on my experience of 16 years with this boat, I found a wet hull core surrounding a improperly sealed thru-hull, and this was immediately repaired. Less important are a few improperly sealed deck fittings where there are only very small wet areas. But all of the areas need attention and eventual repair. All of the deck hardware has been removed and re-bedded. Feels a little like taking care of a wood boat, which we did for the previous 24 years before this boat.

The best answer to these questions in general, of course, is to get a good survey regardless of how any boat is constructed. Good maintenance practices always seem to win out at the end of the day.

 

[Jay N]

Eric says: "I really like the PT boat but not the very straight and quite flat bottom. The stern wedges you mention are for very fast boats and are a negative on any trawler that I can think of. Just extra drag and could push the bow into the next wave on following seas (subject to trim weight) specifically large ones."

Agree with you about the built-in wedges. Pushing these hulls above S/L 1.2 (about 7.1 kts) can get ugly on the fuel consumption side. But some owners want to cruise at 8 kts or more, so if you're a boat builder, what can you do? Put in the wedges and 300+HP, and sell them the boat.

Eric says: "Only other criticism of the PT that I can think of is that w the wheelhouse that far fwd it very likely would be wet and have excessive heaving and acceleration/deceleration in head seas. But if I were shopping I'd be telling myself that those conditions, however not rare do apply to a fairly small amount of time underway in the PNW. Most of the time one would be enjoying the very large and friendly spaces that configuration deliver."

Of course, this is one of the common boating compromises. But what I've found with this boat, is that the bow flare keeps the windows fairly dry, certainly drier than a GB36/42. The downside of this aspect, is, as you point out, deceleration in head seas. The plus side of having the pilothouse closer to the bow, is that the operator tends to want to slow down early to gain comfort in short/steep head seas. This is not a boat where driving through those kind of conditions is acceptable. As with many boats of similar design and weight, this is just not comfortable and it is probably unsafe at some level.

Eric says: "But for the service you describe the PT looks like a great boat to have and spend time on."

Good set of compromises for Puget Sound/British Columbia/SE Alaska cruising.

 

[Nomad Willy]

Agree Agree Jay,
It's like the rolling of the rounded bottom FD boat. You pay your dues and you get your advantages. The name of the game is NAME YOUR ADVANTAGES.

There's a number of trawlers I'd like to have if they had rocker. Ideally enough so their bottoms curved up to within an inch of the WL on the transom. Of course they would be full displacement hulls then and be limited to a bit less than a knot below hull speed and burn half as much fuel.

Do you know Randy Kerr? We bought Willy from him while she was moored at Edmonds. This pic is as she was the first day we saw her.

 

[Jay N]

Eric says: "Do you know Randy Kerr? We bought Willy from him while she was moored at Edmonds. This pic is as she was the first day we saw her."

Didn't know Randy, but I remember seeing the boat from time-to-time. There was another sister-hull in Edmonds, can't remember the name, but owned by Don Austin for many years.

 

[Captain T]

Looking for newer Pacific Trawler

Jay - I joined about a year ago when I said I was interested in buying another one (owned hull # 47) in next few months. Actually would like a 2002 or 2003 if one becomes available. Only see a 2000 available now at Waterline but their screwed up 'Boatshed" system will not let you look at the pictures without signing an onerous agreement.

Know of anyone that may be interested in selling one anywhere in US? I live in Seattle area but did the Great Loop in my new 2001 PT 11 years ago and did ship it over the road after removing flybridge.

Thanks

 

[Jay N]

Hi Gerry

"Jay - I joined about a year ago when I said I was interested in buying another one (owned hull # 47) in next few months. Actually would like a 2002 or 2003 if one becomes available. Only see a 2000 available now at Waterline but their screwed up 'Boatshed" system will not let you look at the pictures without signing an onerous agreement."

Try the listing on Yacht World, then click on details next to the price. You should be able to see the pics.

Know of anyone that may be interested in selling one anywhere in US? I live in Seattle area but did the Great Loop in my new 2001 PT 11 years ago and did ship it over the road after removing flybridge.

Don't know of any newer boats for sale at this time, but I'm not really in that loop. Good Luck. Jay

 

[37Pacific]

37Pacific

Good article. Myself and a close friend recently purchased a 1977 37 ' Pacific Trawler. we love it. brought it back down from Juneau last November. Our plan is to cruise SE Alaska each summer. heading north in late May 2014. name of the boat is Pt Andreas. will you be cruising north this summer?

 

[Jay N]

Congrats new PT ANDREAS owner!. Great to hear that the boat will be used. Where is she moored?

If you don't mind sending me your name/contact info to my email address: cjnmaritime@gmail.com, I'll send you back the latest owners list.

WESTERLY is planning to depart Edmonds in early May for SE, planning on picking up family/guests in Ketchikan around June 18.

Hope to see you out there.

Here's a pic of PT ANDREAS in Lynn Canal July 2012.

 

[Rebel112r]

Capt T. Boatshed seems Ok to me. They want a little info, but they dont pester you. They do take a lot of pics.

 

[Al]

Dark Green hulled PT passed our home at Pond Reef heading North. Wished her safe travels as she scooted by.

Al Ketchikan (Bridge to Nowhere) Alaska

 

[markpierce]

Dark Green hulled PT passed our home at Pond Reef heading North. Wished her safe travels as she scooted by.

Green hulls rock.

 

[37Pacific]

May be looking to sell PT 37

Congrats new PT ANDREAS owner!. Great to hear that the boat will be used. Where is she moored?

If you don't mind sending me your name/contact info to my email address: cjnmaritime@gmail.com, I'll send you back the latest owners list.

WESTERLY is planning to depart Edmonds in early May for SE, planning on picking up family/guests in Ketchikan around June 18.

Hope to see you out there.

Here's a pic of PT ANDREAS in Lynn Canal July 2012.

Hi, Jay. Sorry that we could not meet up this past summer. I was able to spend over7 weeks in SE Alaska this past summer. I wasvery impressed with the bear viewing at Anan, Margaret and Pack Creek. we are trying to decided whether we can keep the boat. we may need to sell it. finding comps is difficult. any suggestions? anyone interested in a possible purchase can contact me at ken.corkum@yahoo.com I will set up a time to come up and see your boat.

 

[Sharkey]

I'm still interested in a 40 that might come for sale on the U.S. East coast..... Everybody keep me in mind....

Sharkey

 

[eyschulman]

Jay N,
Very good summary and I like the PT a lot and agree w you fully about the side decks. We have a W30 Nomad w the sinful side decks and wish we had the wide body Voyager.

Side decks are a bit like fly bridges there are those who love them and those that do not. I personally can not see a boat for me without wide side decks. I want to be able to walk around and deal with dock lines-picking up a mooring from stern and walking it forward-walking my dinghy around and just generally having full access to the whole boat. Now I do a lot of single handing and perhaps if you have bow and stern crew some but not all of the issues above can be dealt with. Side decks are usually sacrificed when internal accommodation is weighted above boat function pushing the boat closer to the cottage on the water. A review of the boats on the water will attest to the fact that a lot of people want the cottage on the water or something in-between that is still a capable traveler.

 

[Jay N]

Hi Eyschulman.

Sorry I didn't see your post until now.

"Side decks are a bit like fly bridges there are those who love them and those that do not. I personally can not see a boat for me without wide side decks. I want to be able to walk around and deal with dock lines-picking up a mooring from stern and walking it forward-walking my dinghy around and just generally having full access to the whole boat. Now I do a lot of single handing and perhaps if you have bow and stern crew some but not all of the issues above can be dealt with."

For the way we use the boat, side decks would have limited utility. We wouldn't want to give up any interior space for them, we would simply have to have a larger boat in order to have an equivalent living area.

The things you mention above are certainly factors to support the idea of having side decks. But in not having side decks, we have different methods of accomplishing the same things, even when single handling the boat.

With respect to dealing with dock lines, the bow and springs are accessible from the pilothouse deck, and walking through the cabin allows access to the stern line. When we dock, either the shoulder comes in alongside first (plan A), or the stern is maneuvered to come in first. After either end of the boat is made fast, the boat can be further maneuvered (if needed). When we un-dock, either one end or the other is let-go first depending on conditions.

We have always been able to pick up a mooring from the bow. But if I had to pick up at the stern, I would lead a line along the 6" side deck from the bow to the stern. This line can be placed on the side deck by climbing to the boat deck and walking the line along. This same access allows walking the dinghy around the boat.

So, in a way, we have full access to the boat. Truly the biggest challenge of NOT having side decks, is scrubbing the windows. While it is easy to rinse them, sometimes they need a good scrubbing to get the salt off. This challenge is mitigated by alternating side-to at docks.

"Side decks are usually sacrificed when internal accommodation is weighted above boat function pushing the boat closer to the cottage on the water." Yes! But this boat cottage still functions very well.

"A review of the boats on the water will attest to the fact that a lot of people want the cottage on the water or something in-between that is still a capable traveler." If we ever could have our choice of a boat designed for beauty in all aspects of hull shape, propulsion, accommodation and cruising duration, I'm thinking we would have a long and narrow hull, probably built out of wood.

 

[Rollysflyinghigh]

PT 37' Owners!!!

So I thought id post on this old forum a bunch of questions for the experts.

Im slowly tackling maintenance issues on a PT we just purchased.
I am heeding advice of others to go slowly and ponder things before changing them out.

QUESTIONS:

1. Why do my deck drains flow into the bilge? I have one manual pump, one electric (no float), and three deck drains. The main trunk is 1.5" plumbing that runs horizontally pert near half way above the bilge and each pump and drain line tees onto this via an upside down "P" trap. The "P" trap almost touches the underside of the dec/floor.
I understand reducing the number of sea cocks (right at sea level), but the system seems overly complicated.
Whenever I turn on the electric bilge pump, the water comes out the deck drains and pools. furthermore one of the deck drains is actually under the teak side deck extension (port side) under the top ladder and spills back into the engine compartment!!!! This side deck compartment houses Engine room venting with spaces to allow water to seep in.
Once the pump has run for a sec, the water eventually travels up the last "P" trap and out the sea cock.

Could I not just run a seperate line for the deck drains (3x) and tee in just prior to the exit line?
I think it is imperative that I shorten the heights of all "P" traps.

Thoughts on "no float"?!?!?!

2. I keep a spare belt hanging between Water Hose, as a back up.
Twice now the belt has split.
The suspect is the rad cap. It pops spilling fluid over the belt!!
The old cap is only 4PSI?!?! Is this correct?

3. The injector pump drain has stripped threads. the old owner used a
massive hose clamp to wrap around the whole unit to keep the plug in.
Should I retap and find a larger drain plug?
or......?

4. Rear engine mounts are rusted.
Should I strip down with dremel/angle grinder and use "BLUE STEEL".?
Should I replace thru bolts?

5. The big question!!
The stringers had a couple holes drilled at some point, near the midpoint
(transmission area) likely for an inspection BUT were never capped. When we
bought er, she had 1 1/2' tide line. I drilled a hole at the lowest point to drain
any fluid out.
Does it make sense to open up more FG and expose the stringer and use "git Rot"???

6. the VACUFLUSH system has one failed/seized pump. My thoughts are to rip the whole system out and start fresh.
Seems like a shame as the system will likely work once I replace the pump BUT the single pump is the same cost as replacing the whole system!!! (1200$).

7. Lead engine room panelling is starting to come off the walls. Thoughts on how to rehang/ cover sheets?

8. There is only shore power AC. Thoughts on adding a stand alone Inverter with solitary plug in Salon area?
Ill likely need more Battery as I only have one single 1700a ships batt. With solar panels already.

9. The second big question!! Sikkens or Teak oil??? I hear that there is a top coat for sikkens now that simply needs
to be reapplied every couple years... and to "strip down" there is a paste? that one rubs into the wood to clean and
prep?

10. The fuel tanks are steel, (Original? In great shape) and each has a sump. AND there are two fuel filters inline.
Im contemplating splitting the filters into two with a valve to switch out.
thoughts?

Geez Louise!!!

Im torn between "It aint broke don't fix it" and 'well, how can I improve this"?

Id love to hear what others have done.
I ll repost in a separate posting to ensure maximum viewings..

Mark

 

[Mako]

Rolls, hate to come across as a wise-ass, but have you considered just dumping the boat as-is for whatever money you can salvage? The market is actually pretty good right now but likely will soften in the near future as COVID vaccines and concerns begin to wane. Then start afresh with a newer boat with fewer problems.

 

[Rollysflyinghigh]

Hell no

Rolls, hate to come across as a wise-ass, but have you considered just dumping the boat as-is for whatever money you can salvage? The market is actually pretty good right now but likely will soften in the near future as COVID vaccines and concerns begin to wane. Then start afresh with a newer boat with fewer problems.

BOATS GREAT..

I can live with fixing these inconveniences...
and
Loads of great input, which I greatly appreciated..

 

[jhall767]

So I thought id post on this old forum a bunch of questions for the experts.

Im slowly tackling maintenance issues on a PT we just purchased.
I am heeding advice of others to go slowly and ponder things before changing them out.

QUESTIONS:

1. Why do my deck drains flow into the bilge? I have one manual pump, one electric (no float), and three deck drains. The main trunk is 1.5" plumbing that runs horizontally pert near half way above the bilge and each pump and drain line tees onto this via an upside down "P" trap. The "P" trap almost touches the underside of the dec/floor.
I understand reducing the number of sea cocks (right at sea level), but the system seems overly complicated.
Whenever I turn on the electric bilge pump, the water comes out the deck drains and pools. furthermore one of the deck drains is actually under the teak side deck extension (port side) under the top ladder and spills back into the engine compartment!!!! This side deck compartment houses Engine room venting with spaces to allow water to seep in.
Once the pump has run for a sec, the water eventually travels up the last "P" trap and out the sea cock.

Could I not just run a seperate line for the deck drains (3x) and tee in just prior to the exit line?
I think it is imperative that I shorten the heights of all "P" traps.

Thoughts on "no float"?!?!?!

2. I keep a spare belt hanging between Water Hose, as a back up.
Twice now the belt has split.
The suspect is the rad cap. It pops spilling fluid over the belt!!
The old cap is only 4PSI?!?! Is this correct?

3. The injector pump drain has stripped threads. the old owner used a
massive hose clamp to wrap around the whole unit to keep the plug in.
Should I retap and find a larger drain plug?
or......?

4. Rear engine mounts are rusted.
Should I strip down with dremel/angle grinder and use "BLUE STEEL".?
Should I replace thru bolts?

5. The big question!!
The stringers had a couple holes drilled at some point, near the midpoint
(transmission area) likely for an inspection BUT were never capped. When we
bought er, she had 1 1/2' tide line. I drilled a hole at the lowest point to drain
any fluid out.
Does it make sense to open up more FG and expose the stringer and use "git Rot"???

6. the VACUFLUSH system has one failed/seized pump. My thoughts are to rip the whole system out and start fresh.
Seems like a shame as the system will likely work once I replace the pump BUT the single pump is the same cost as replacing the whole system!!! (1200$).

7. Lead engine room panelling is starting to come off the walls. Thoughts on how to rehang/ cover sheets?

8. There is only shore power AC. Thoughts on adding a stand alone Inverter with solitary plug in Salon area?
Ill likely need more Battery as I only have one single 1700a ships batt. With solar panels already.

9. The second big question!! Sikkens or Teak oil??? I hear that there is a top coat for sikkens now that simply needs
to be reapplied every couple years... and to "strip down" there is a paste? that one rubs into the wood to clean and
prep?

10. The fuel tanks are steel, (Original? In great shape) and each has a sump. AND there are two fuel filters inline.
Im contemplating splitting the filters into two with a valve to switch out.
thoughts?

Geez Louise!!!

Im torn between "It aint broke don't fix it" and 'well, how can I improve this"?

Id love to hear what others have done.
I ll repost in a separate posting to ensure maximum viewings..

Mark

Probably should be more than one post. I start with problem # 1

Some of my boat's deck drains run inside the boat but out above the water line using the same through hull as the bilge pumps. If the bilge pump is backing up through the deck drain something is clogged or collapsed. The "P trap" is to stop the water from coming back in. I wouldn't change that. The water should flow from the bilge pump up through the trap and out of the boat. Shouldn't back up to the deck.

Fuel filters. I'd leave them alone. Racor? Put vacuum gauges on the second one in line. Get the ones with a tell tale. Then run 30 micron first, 10 micron second. your engine filter will be third. Each one cleans it a little better. Much cheaper and you will get the same lifespan as switching over if not better. If you have really poor fuel in your area another option would be 60 micron then 20 micron then engine.

 

[Rollysflyinghigh]

Probably should be more than one post. I start with problem # 1

Some of my boat's deck drains run inside the boat but out above the water line using the same through hull as the bilge pumps. If the bilge pump is backing up through the deck drain something is clogged or collapsed. The "P trap" is to stop the water from coming back in. I wouldn't change that. The water should flow from the bilge pump up through the trap and out of the boat. Shouldn't back up to the deck.

Fuel filters. I'd leave them alone. Racor? Put vacuum gauges on the second one in line. Get the ones with a tell tale. Then run 30 micron first, 10 micron second. your engine filter will be third. Each one cleans it a little better. Much cheaper and you will get the same lifespan as switching over if not better. If you have really poor fuel in your area another option would be 60 micron then 20 micron then engine.

Excellent input...

The Upside down P Traps is pert near the height of the deck drains..."Path of least resistance"...? Ive tucked the line down temporarily... Thinking to just cut off 9" off the P lines. as it is still 48" above the water line!!

Filter plan sounds like a great idea...

Thank you.

 

[C lectric]

Question # 1
As mentioned by Jhall those upside down P traps stop water from upstream water sources from dumping back into the bilge. However one could also , at least consider using what is call a Sanitary Tee which has the Tee part on a long angle to join with the main run. That would also prevent back flow. Just be sure that the actual Tee is on a slight down angle to the main run as an extra precaution. The Sanitary tees would flow better from the individual sources. It may not be worth the work and effort though.

Q #1.5
the back flow when you use a bilge pump indicates to me there is a plug or restriction in the main line. Get yourself a SMALL plumbing snake. THey are inexpensive at the local plumbing supply and use it to break up any restrictions. THis is actually where the Sanitary Tees would shine over the P traps. THe San. Tee would allow the snake access already aimed in the exit direction. I will suggest that cleaning should be done periodically to prevent this. I go through something similar on my back deck. There is a gutter which collects all the deck run off from the entire deck area. THat gutter needs to be cleaned several times a year. Just did it and it was loaded. You may be able to rig one San. Tee near the beginning or the pipe run so a hose can be attached, turned on and the water can blast debris out the exit.

Question #2
Sorry but this makes no sense. How is a belt split by a water hose? Why is the rad. cap a suspect? As far as the rad. cap pressure rating is concerned you need to go to the engine supplier and since you don't say what the engine is I am going to guess it is either a Ford Lehman, a Perkins 6-354 or an old Cummins 6B engine. All around 120 to 160 HP.
-- Lehman contact AMERICAN DIESEL who are the Lehman gurus. https://americandieselcorp.com/
--Perkins contact Caterpillar whno bought Perkins about 15 yrs or so ago.
--Cummins should have a dealer in your area.

Try and find out the specific model and its serial number.

I just had a brain F... It's a Lehman. THe hose routing at the engine front pushed most owners into tieing a spare belt in place because one of the hoses has to be routed through the belt. This must be done at the time of a coolant change or the coolant must be drained to install the belt in case of a belt failure. THis is a needed technique on this engine. Most engines the belts can be installed without dumping coolant and pulling hoses even though they too may prevent difficulties but not like the Lehman. If I'm right then take a good look at the modification so you can duplicate it when the belt and hose ages.

# 3
Injection pump drain plug. Best is to repair it properly. However that usually means pulling the pump off and sending it to the repair shop. Any metal chips introduced into the pump may wreck it at considerable expense.

#4
Never heard of Blue Steel. Is it one of the myriad of phosphate concoctions that will turn light rust black stopping any further rust? They do work if that is what you are referring to. However, the part must then be painted as the treatment is not rust proof in and of itself.
Which through bolts? The ones through the stringer, the ones through the mounts and through the steel mount adapters to the stringers?

If it is the engine height adjustment posts I would try to loosen the nuts and soak the threads with a good penetrant such as PB Blaster, KROIL, and so on. Kroil is one of the best. Leave the bottom nuts alone untill the top one is loose and free. Then tighten that top nut and then do the bottom nut. THat way you will not lose the adjustment so once the bottom nut is loose and free it can simply be retightened. If you just go undoing all you will end up with a BIG job of realigning the engine. Leave that for another day. If they are fighting too hard leave it alone untill you have a LOT of time. Not ignore it. However soak the nuts as well as you can with your penetrant and reapply over several days if they are not co-operating. You can also try using a drift /rod and striking the drift with a hammer to shock the nuts after penetrant wetting. The shock should help the penetrant to penetrate the rust.

If it is the engine mount securing bolts through the mounts and the adapter steel angle to hold the actual engine mount in place, sure, but just replace one bolt at a time. You may be able to clean them but I will repeat, one mount at a time, so you don't upset any adjustments.

If the bolts are those that secure the steel bracket to the stringers, then again do one at a time. If the bracket shifts you may have a big problem. \The engine should probably be supported by a chain hoist from above or some blocking from below using a jack to fit the blocking. Just be very cautious and do not use the oil pan. If you damage that then you have a big problem.

#5
draining may help. I would rig a fan to blow through the holes. Over time the moving air will dry the wood out. Yes it works. It also takes a long time. I did the same thing on my boat many years ago. High bilge water hid the hole and filled it.. I used small line stuffed into the hole to soak the water up leaving about a foot out of the hole into the bilge. The water soaked into the line and the line carried it to the bilge and there was a stream of water running away. Once the bulk water was gone I used a small muffin or computer fan to blow through the hole. The water would be evaporated and slowly dried the wood. Each time we went out I installed a bolt with a heavy buildup of rubber washers to seal the hole and when we came back the hole was opened and the fan set up again. The bilge water had to be controlled.
It took me several years to be OK with the job. And yes 35 yrs later, we still have the boat. Once I was happy with the dry out I sealed the hole with epoxy and cloth. I eventually got hold of a moisture meter and it shows dry enough to not be a problem.

If the stringer is really wet then Git rot, at least to me , will not repair the stringer and may seal damaging moisture inside. It may be worthwhile finding a moisture meter and using it to monitor the drying process. ELectrophysics is one, I have the swing needle type, They are not foolproof but a good guide about the process.

You might even rig one fan to blow air into a hole and another fan to suck air out so you force some circulation, however little.

But get and keep the bilge water under control as a priority.

#6
Which pump specifically are you referring to. The Vacuum generation pump or some thing else.? Even the holding tank emptying pump is virtually the same unit but just with one set uf duckbills.
Even If the vacuum pump for the vacuum tanks they should not be anywhere near $1,200 or maybe the entire pump as a new one..
I have that pump to empty my holding tank although in my case it is the unit with only the single set of duckbills, not the twin duckbills that the vaccum generation pump uses. The pumps can be rebuilt unless the caseing is cracked and/ or the motor is ruined. The duckbill valves, the plunger seals, the case sealing O ring can all be replaced if you are willing to get you hands dirty. Wear Nitrile gloves and some care. Just take some time and be prepared for a dirty job.

#7
I too have lead sheeting. Periodically I have to restaple parts of it. Use some heavy paper or light waxed carboard or paper to shoot the staples through. Best are either bronze or SS staples. If you have an air or H.D. electric stapler even better. You may even consider some thin wood strips and shoot or screw through those to spread out the load from the staples/screws.

# 8
Inverter. Sure but you do need to do some research on your own here. You need to examine what you want to run, how much power those devices will use or you will likely make a poor choice. You have AC shore power. An inverter is fed by the batteries. The batteries must be charged by the battery charger which must be fed by the shore power.. So the inverter must draw down the batteries to run. It may work to run the battery charger constantly and then use the inverter to run a high current load such as a microwave or kettle, which runs for a short time at a current high enough to cause the shore power to trip the breaker but then the load must be off long enough for the charger to do its job and replace the power the inverter pulled.
This question you must do some serious thinking about. More than can or should be dealt with just here.

# 9
Refer to Jhalls post. He makes a very good suggestion.


And I too am going to suggest that you don't load all these questions into one long post. Split them up over a bit of time. THere is another poster, new person, Ducattihottie who also has had many questions but splits them up somewhat. You will likely get more detail for each question.

There are many posts about inverters and so on so do a bit of looking especially in the Electrical threads.


Before I go I will strongly advise to cover the shaft stuffing boxes with some cut up old small fenders. They do not have to be pretty.
All stuffing boxes spray water, maybe not much but they do spray. THat spray can be a mist that will travel and cause rusting of the back end of the engine, the gearbox and any other steel parts nearby. It can travel and if the spray is heavy enough quite far.

Cut the ear off leaving a hole a bit bigger than the shaft. Cut the piece long enough to be secured to the stuffing box and overhang the shaft entry into the stuffing box by an inch or so. Doesn't need to be a lot. Then split the fender piece lengthwise so it can be put over the shaft entry and secured in place with a Tyrap or a worm gear clamp.
The holding can be quite light duty as this is only a cover. Set it so the split is down. That way the spray will be caught by the fender and drop into the bilge instead of spraying all over the area.

For mine I can have the cover off in about 20-30 seconds. I use a Tridon clamp and hang the nut driver nearby so I don't have to search or dig for it.


Have fun.

 

[jhall767]

The best way to dry just about anything out is creating a vacuum. Remember back to high school science that you thought you'd never use Henry's law or something.

The lower the atmospheric pressure the faster water evaporates. This is what your air conditioner repair guy does after replacing lines. If you can seal off the area and use an HVAC vacuum pump to pull a near vacuum all of the water will evaporate. It may need to run several days but it works.