Bow protectors

[Tator]

I am needing to install a bow protector when I install my new anchor this Spring. It will need to extend down from my existing SS protector to keep the sharp point from harming the FG when the anchor swings as it is being brought and up before the shank goes over the roller. I am looking at HDPE sheeting and was wondering what thickness I should use. It will need to be somewhat flexible to form to the bow when bolted to it. Any thoughts?

Tator

 

[Comodave]

1/4” will be the easiest to work with but may not last as long as you would like. 1/2” will last longer but may be a bear to get it formed around the bow. Maybe do a test and see if you can bend the 1/2” or not. Heat will be your friend but not too much. Good luck.

 

[Tator]

Thanks. Not sure why this thread is not showing up my new posts lists.

Tator

 

[syjos]

Sandpipers bows needs a protector too so will be interested in what you come up with.

I looked at having a SS one made a while back and it was expensive. They were going to cut two pieces of SS to match the bows vertical contour and weld them together to form the V. The bow, not being a straight vertical line and the sharp V made it difficult to manufacture.

HDPE would be an ideal material.

 

[Mako]

@Tator, it looks like your bow is sharp so you may not be able to bend it. You can look it up but it is probably a few inches. So you might wind up having two flat pieces welded together. Plus it's sacrificial. Is stainless too expensive?

 

[Tator]

Any work I would have to do to make or have it made would need to be done in Petersburg, Ak. I'm sure a couple of the welders there could make it out of SS and it would be expensive. Most of the commercial fishing boats that I've seen use either HDPE or Ironbark. The HDPE I could probably do myself. The SS, not so much. Maybe a 90deg strip on the stem with pads on either side? Unfortunately, I'm not there now to see how other boats have done it and need to take the materials up with me when I return in May.

Tator

 

[TJM]

I would use the HDPE, which is easily formable / bendable with hot water at 212° or a Heat shrink gun or maybe a bending strip. There will be some spring back so bend it beyond how much you need. If using the heat gun, apply the heat mainly to the outside, that is the side that will need to stretch. It will take time because plastics are good insulators as we know. Possibly bend it over a piece of angle iron that is hot, but not too hot to scorch the HDPE.

 

[syjos]

How would you attach HDPE to the bow since it can not be glued?

Screws, double stick tape?

 

[Tator]

The method that I have seen used on commercial boats is through bolting. It's also used to protect the hull in those areas where pots are hauled onto the boat as well as rubrails. Some Nordic tugs look like they use HDPE as bow protectors.

Tator

 

[Mako]

Would like to see a photo of the installation, perhaps on one of those fishing boats showing how it is holding up

 

[Comodave]

I would through bolt it.

 

[Gdavid]

How about vertical strips about 1 - 1 1/2" wide and 1/2" thick. This would be easier to fit to a 3 dimensional surface than a sheet. I would try an adhesive first and use mechanical fasteners if need be.

 

[Comodave]

HDPE doesn’t do well with glues. The first big hit and it would likely pop off.

 

[O C Diver]

My boat originally had one that was made out or 1/4" or maybe 3/8" PVC. It was but ugly, cracked, and held in place with 1/2" carriage bolts.

During my refit, Sean refaired the bow and put molding paper over it. Then applied one layer of biaxial cloth and fiberglass. He then popped it off, took it to his shop, added several layers of biaxial cloth and fiberglass, faired it and paint it to match the hull. It's held on with #12 screws.

The logic was that sooner or later I would ding it up bad enough to rework it. So, remove it, refair it, repaint it and reinstall it. Pretty smart!

Ted

 

[ofer]

Any work I would have to do to make or have it made would need to be done in Petersburg, Ak. I'm sure a couple of the welders there could make it out of SS and it would be expensive. Most of the commercial fishing boats that I've seen use either HDPE or Ironbark. The HDPE I could probably do myself. The SS, not so much. Maybe a 90deg strip on the stem with pads on either side? Unfortunately, I'm not there now to see how other boats have done it and need to take the materials up with me when I return in May.

Tator

Is aluminum not an option? many of the commercials in Alaska use it.

 

[mvweebles]

Breast plate on my Willard 36. Looks great but it's brand new. Old one was pretty dinged up. I mounted a new anchor roller that keeps the anchor off the hull.

Depending on style of your boat, I definitely like the idea of 1-1/4"w x 3/4" thick vertical strips of sacrificial wood. Not sure I'd thru-bolt. I sort of like the idea of them tearing away with relative ease.

Peter

 

[syjos]

My boat originally had one that was made out or 1/4" or maybe 3/8" PVC. It was but ugly, cracked, and held in place with 1/2" carriage bolts.

During my refit, Sean refaired the bow and put molding paper over it. Then applied one layer of biaxial cloth and fiberglass. He then popped it off, took it to his shop, added several layers of biaxial cloth and fiberglass, faired it and paint it to match the hull. It's held on with #12 screws.

The logic was that sooner or later I would ding it up bad enough to rework it. So, remove it, refair it, repaint it and reinstall it. Pretty smart!

Ted

That's a real good idea! How is it holding up to dings?

A picture would be appreciated.

 

[O C Diver]

That's a real good idea! How is it holding up to dings?

A picture would be appreciated.

The Bruce is only for back up. Thing it's been banged a couple of times, but not through the paint. It gets waxed and we may have compounded a couple of scratches, but it hasn't been back off the boat yet.

Ted

 

[syjos]

View attachment 126012

View attachment 126013

The Bruce is only for back up. Thing it's been banged a couple of times, but not through the paint. It gets waxed and we may have compounded a couple of scratches, but it hasn't been back off the boat yet.

Ted

That looks great! Can you get if off easy or is there sealant between it and hull?

 

[O C Diver]

That looks great! Can you get if off easy or is there sealant between it and hull?

The only sealant is in the mounting screw holes.

Ted

 

[Mako]

Ted have you ever removed it? I would think that you’d find some algae or mold behind it. Not a structural problem of course. Might be a good idea to put a bead of low strength caulk around the perimeter before bolting it down, just to keep moisture out.

 

[O C Diver]

Ted have you ever removed it? I would think that you’d find some algae or mold behind it. Not a structural problem of course. Might be a good idea to put a bead of low strength caulk around the perimeter before bolting it down, just to keep moisture out.

I've never removed it.
Don't think there is any algea or mold. Being mounted on a vertical surface that doesn't absorb moisture, I'm assuming any moisture that gets in will also drain out the bottom or evaporate when the sun warms the panel.

I'm pretty sure we didn't seal the edge, but I could be mistaken. Certainly not going to take it down until it needs to be refinished.

Ted

 

[Tator]

Not having any luck finding "molding paper". Sounds like an interesting product. Any leads to help?

Tator

 

[Codger2]

I've always thought that Nordic Tug made an inexpensive good looking hull protector.
Pick you material of choice, no bending required.

 

[syjos]

Thanks Ted,

 

[O C Diver]

Not having any luck finding "molding paper". Sounds like an interesting product. Any leads to help?

Tator

I'm not finding it either. Sean had a roll of the material that was quite old. I'm guessing a company that sells vacuum bagging material of mold release coating could come up with a substitute. You might even be able to wax the area with mold release material and then lay the cloth over it and wet it out. As your fighting gravity, I would guess taping a larger piece of cloth from the gunnel and only wetting out the area you need to cover, would make it easier.

This sounds like you should do a test run on a junk boat and decide if a second layer of cloth is warranted before popping it off the boat. Depending on your fiberglass skills and the speed at which it sets up. It might make more sense to do all the layers on the mold.

I will try to reach out to Sean and see what suggestions he has.

Ted

 

[syjos]

I use packing tape to cover an area that I don't want epoxy sticking to. Great for molding parts.

Visqueen for larger horizontal areas.

 

[bshanafelt]

I used a piece of industrial rubber about 3/16" thickness - it has some sort of synthetic fabric between the layers. I think it was from a conveyor belt.

cut it to shape & screwed it in with stainless screws.

I believe this was installed in 2008.

 

[Lou_tribal]

You can use kitchen wrap or red duck tape, epoxy does not bind to it.

L

 

[O C Diver]

I use packing tape to cover an area that I don't want epoxy sticking to. Great for molding parts.

Visqueen for larger horizontal areas.

So I talked to my fiberglass guy Sean. His recollection was wax paper because of the compound curves. Basically taping each length to the hull and then overlapping the tape with the next section of wax paper.

He thought 3 layers of biaxial cloth before popping the piece off the bow.

As I thought, the only caulk was in the screw holes, not around the perimeter.

Ted