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IG 30

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2020
Messages
28
Location
Australia
Vessel Name
Bilss
Vessel Make
IG 30ft
I have a IG30 with the original cable steering which is all good and I do not want to replace it, however I would like to fit an auto helm (pilot) I am a bit reluctant to fit a Raymarine wheel style behind the original teak spoked wheel.
Is the something out there that can be adapted to the steering wheel shaft in behind the helm dash, I have plenty of room.
Very interested in what you have used, thanks in advance.
 
my boat has a cable helm too, and i have a comnav pilot with a hydraulic cylinder on the tiller arm.
 
I think an appropriate solution is a hydraulic cylinder attached to a bronze tiller arm. It is run be a hydraulic pump that can be located in the lazarette. It is controlled by a controller connected to the MFD. It leaves the cable steering alone so either system can be used.

I have an IG30 and if you go that route you will have to build a strong platform to hold the cylinder. The upper rudder shaft supports could also use strengthening.

There are many brands but i just added to my Raymarine MFD due to easier connections. You may be able to get a custom split gear machined and adapt an existing wheel drive but I am not aware of any off the shelf solutions.
 
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I think the hydraulic route is the way to go as stated above. To add the chain drive and electric motor (if you could find the necessary parts new) would be spending lots of dollars for outdated equipment. Maybe you could find used stuff but to what end? The hydraulic auto pilot will be much more adaptable and serve as backup steering should a cable break. A nice plus. Comnav, Raymarine, Garmin, and others are all good systems. I would prioritize finding a good installer and something that matches your current chart plotter and other electronics.
 
How does the cable steering overcome the hydraulic piston? All my reading found a need to install hydraulic steering.
That made the wheel steering the most economical solution. On my back burner is to install it on the upper helm to as the lower would be more noticeable and out of place.
The EV100 should work.
 
How does the cable steering overcome the hydraulic piston? All my reading found a need to install hydraulic steering.
That made the wheel steering the most economical solution. On my back burner is to install it on the upper helm to as the lower would be more noticeable and out of place.
The EV100 should work.
Agreed - 25 years ago I owned a Willard 30 with cable steering. I ended up converting to hydraulic so I could add an autopilot. I tried a wheel pilot but it didn't work very well. Could have been the steering mechanism was worn

BTW - Buck Algonquin makes tiller steering arms of you need a way to connect ram.

Unfortunately this will not be cheap.

Good luck

Peter
 
I thought a steering unit at the top of the runner shaft were the rudder arm sits would be heavy on any unit due to the leverage.
 
I agree with the recco to add a hydraulic ram on a tiller arm. But if I were doing it I'd replace the wheel steering with hydraulic at the same time. If you're setting up a ram and pump it's not that much incremental cost/effort to put a wheel in the loop and get rid of the cables.

The downside of having both is that the autopilot has to turn the wheel through the cable, and the wheel has to drag the cylinder back and forth.
 
How does the cable steering overcome the hydraulic piston? All my reading found a need to install hydraulic steering.
That made the wheel steering the most economical solution. On my back burner is to install it on the upper helm to as the lower would be more noticeable and out of place.
The EV100 should work.

They make a solenoid controlled valve that simply diverts the fluid into a loop and no longer operates the cylinder. Controlled by the clutch connection on controller.

Wheel steering is a lot more economical. With 2 runs of cable to deal with the response may be difficult to set to a fine enough level to control wandering so I crossed it off the consideration list.
 
The downside of having both is that the autopilot has to turn the wheel through the cable, and the wheel has to drag the cylinder back and forth.

Yes to the downside. Carry extra seals for the ram in the spare parts kit.
Upside is redundant steering systems.
 
They make a solenoid controlled valve that simply diverts the fluid into a loop and no longer operates the cylinder. Controlled by the clutch connection on controller.

Wheel steering is a lot more economical. With 2 runs of cable to deal with the response may be difficult to set to a fine enough level to control wandering so I crossed it off the consideration list.
wheel steer has a rudder position sensor option.
I am interested in hearing why a tight cable, wheel steer auto wanders more than hydraulic.
 
I have a IG30 with the original cable steering which is all good and I do not want to replace it, however I would like to fit an auto helm (pilot) I am a bit reluctant to fit a Raymarine wheel style behind the original teak spoked wheel.
Is the something out there that can be adapted to the steering wheel shaft in behind the helm dash, I have plenty of room.
Very interested in what you have used, thanks in advance.

Having followed the subsequent posts, most folk have recommended the adaptation of a tiller arm hydraulically powered that is mounted in the lazaret and attaches to the rudder head unit. Quite a good system, but more complex and expensive, especially if it requires you giving up the chain, rod, and cable system you already have and like.

I was in a similar position to you with my Clipped (CHB) 34, which also has the chain and rod steering, which is so beautifully simple and trouble free in the main.

I looked into auto pilot alternatives and there is a system by Raymarine, which is a rotary drive designed for power and sailboat systems that can be driven from the helm position. It mounts behind the steering position, and connects through an accessory chain and sprocket, into the already present cable and rod steering system. The outstanding design of the Raymarine rotary drive unit provides smooth, powerful autopilot controlled steering with quiet operation. Seen here...
https://www.raymarine.com.au/autopilot/drive-unit/
Select the drop-down under Mechanical Rotary...
I was tempted, but in the end decided I would not use it quite enough to justify the cost. But it probably is the best way to automate the steering in your current chain/rod/cable system. Best of luck anyway. :)
 
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I don't not want to change the cable steering as it is such a simple method with next to no maintenance
 
Having followed the subsequent posts, most folk have recommended the adaptation of a tiller arm hydraulically powered that is mounted in the lazaret and attaches to the rudder head unit. Quite a good system, but more complex and expensive, especially if it requires you giving up the chain, rod, and cable system you already have and like.

I was in a similar position to you with my Clipped (CHB) 34, which also has the chain and rod steering, which is so beautifully simple and trouble free in the main.

I looked into auto pilot alternatives and there is a system by Raymarine, which is a rotary drive designed for power and sailboat systems that can be driven from the helm position. It mounts behind the steering position, and connects through an accessory chain and sprocket, into the already present cable and rod steering system. The outstanding design of the Raymarine rotary drive unit provides smooth, powerful autopilot controlled steering with quiet operation. Seen here...
https://www.raymarine.com.au/autopilot/drive-unit/
Select the drop-down under Mechanical Rotary...
I was tempted, but in the end decided I would not use it quite enough to justify the cost. But it probably is the best way to automate the steering in your current chain/rod/cable system. Best of luck anyway. :)

I had forgotten about the Raymarine chain drive product. Looks to be well worth exploring.
 
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My IG 32 has an Autohelm 6000 hydraulic ram system attached to the rudder shaft. It works flawlessly.
 
If you're going to use hydraulic over mechanical then you can't have a no-feedback helm. The hydraulic cylinder gets a normally open bypass solenoid valve which is actuated (closed) by the clutch output from the pilot.

The very first project on my boat was to replace cable steering with hydraulic.
 
Octopus autohelm

Check out Octopus autohelm. Adapts well to cable steered boats. Probably the simplest and least expensive route.
 
Installed an Octopus last year. Works great. Highly recommend if you want to keep the cable steering.
 
I have a IG30 with the original cable steering which is all good and I do not want to replace it, however I would like to fit an auto helm (pilot) I am a bit reluctant to fit a Raymarine wheel style behind the original teak spoked wheel.
Is the something out there that can be adapted to the steering wheel shaft in behind the helm dash, I have plenty of room.
Very interested in what you have used, thanks in advance.

You may take a look at this.
https://octopusdrives.com/products/type-s-t-dashboard-drives/
 
Installed an Octopus last year. Works great. Highly recommend if you want to keep the cable steering.

How about some details? Do you have two cables going to the rudders. The linked Octopus seems like it is for a push/pull cable
 
One cable, push pull. I have two steering helms. Octopus handles it just fine.
 
How about some details? Do you have two cables going to the rudders. The linked Octopus seems like it is for a push/pull cable

That is correct. I installed an Octopus years ago. It was for a 1 cable Morse system. It did work quite well but I am not sure it will fit the original posters needs.
 
I have a IG30 with the original cable steering which is all good and I do not want to replace it, however I would like to fit an auto helm (pilot) I am a bit reluctant to fit a Raymarine wheel style behind the original teak spoked wheel.
Is the something out there that can be adapted to the steering wheel shaft in behind the helm dash, I have plenty of room.
Very interested in what you have used, thanks in advance.
I met a former pilot and electrical engineer who installed an electric servo on the tiller arm. He said it worked great and didn't have all the expense of the hydraulics. I didn't get into specifics with him but it did sound interesting.
 
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My IG 32 has an Autohelm 6000 hydraulic ram system attached to the rudder shaft. It works flawlessly.

That's a mechanical drive unit. Very common on sailboats. Raymarine makes them in several sizes.

If you want both cable steering and an under-deck autopilot this seems like the best solution. Simpler and cheaper than hydraulic to install and plenty powerful enough.
 

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