Anchoring Anxiety

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So many of my boat neighbors are afraid to anchor. I say I spent almost $1,000 for what I thought was the best anchor plus I have all chain and I don’t plan to go out in a storm. I sleep like a baby. But if I must tell a story of the first time I anchored it was in my 32’ sailboat. Pulled into an anchorage with only a reef in front for ocean protection. There was one boat already there. I swung in close to shore and threw out my stern hook, drove up and dropped the bow danforth. The people on the other boat started shaking their heads “NO”. Sure enough we started to get closer. So I picked up both anchors and this time I dropped the bow first, backed down on it, then set the stern. The other boat said no as we started drifting into the rocks on our stb. So I pulled up again, set the stern first again then the bow and we were good. So then I decided, since it was shallow, to look at my anchor. The flukes had just caught the lip of a flat rock. So my partner gave me some slack and I buried in some sand. 40 years now later and I can’t remember if I slept that night.
 
My setup is pretty good, oversized Rocna anchor, 280 ft of chain, excellent Maxwell windless, chain counter in the helm, Magnus swivel and bridle. All the good stuff. I take all the precautions I know about, researching protected anchorages, backing down on the anchor, 7 to 1 scope, set 2 separate anchor alarms, etc. So far, knock on wood, I've had no issues. But I never feel comfortable at anchor. Even taking the dogs to the shore in the dingy, I keep laser focus on the boat. Anchor, dingy and dine is nice, but I feel like I'm constantly worried. I know, from experience, my setup and prep works well, but we have some strong currents and fairly large tide swings here. Like I said, nothing has happened yet.

So my question is this; at what point do you feel comfortable and able to relax at anchor? Is there a trick I'm missing, or am I just a worry wart?
The day you sell the boat 😜
 
A distant reminiscence on anchoring. Many years ago we anchored my 26ft sailboat( a Nordic Folkboat, a heavy sturdy long keel boat, transom hung rudder, similar to Herreschoff design), off a beach in Pittwater, Sydney, a semi enclosed waterway. The little Volvo diesel was kaput, having just broken its crankshaft. A SW gale kicked in. We anchored with a little plough anchor with a short length of chain, and some line. During the night, gusts repeatedly grabbed the boat, hurling it backwards the full extent of the rode, ending with a sharp upwards jerk of the bow. And yet, it held. I don`t think I had a plan if it let go. An uncomfortable night.
In the morning it was still blowing so hard that,even under reefed main, we were on our beam ends in the gusts. With no engine, and needing help, we sailed, nervously, into an unfamiliar marina,successfully sailing onto a mooring buoy.
The moral is, take care, but have some faith in your anchoring system. It may do better than you think.
 
Right after I bought my previous boat (A 36-foot Maxum express cruiser), I decided I wanted to go out and spend the night at anchor on my new boat. It was March in the PNW, so not the best kind of conditions, but the forecast said "no rain" so I went ... all of about 1/8th of a mile from my slip at Lakewood Marina to anchor out in Andrews Bay on Lake Washington. It's the only legal overnight anchorage on the lake, and a popular spot. The ground tackle on that boat when I bought it was a 20# danforth on 50 feet of chain connected to 300' of rode.

I went out to the middle of the bay, otherwise unoccupied because it was late winter, and dropped the hook in 20 feet of water with all the chain out and maybe 20 feet of rode. The bottom of Andrews Bay is mud with quite a bit of milfoil. The sky was clear and cold with a mild bit of wind from the north. The anchor caught and set after a little bit of coaxing. I settled in for dinner and a good book, then went to bed.

In the middle of the night, I was nearly bounced out of bed. I sat up, confused, and realized the motion of the boat was all wrong for being at anchor. I ran up into the cockpit, in my underwear, and saw that I was less than 100 yards away from being blown into the I-90 floating bridge! The wind had turned 180 in the night and blown me right out of the bay!
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The anchor hadn't held at all, and was now dangling straight down from the bow, acting as a drag and giving the boat a pitch-roll motion in the now 25-knot southerly wind. That's what had woken me up.

I got the motors started and pulled away before crashing into the bridge and becoming guilty of a federal felony. Then had to haul up the anchor in the freezing wind, sitting out on the bow (still in my underwear) because the windlass suddenly wasn't working. I went back to my slip and docked, chagrined and determined not to ever have such a thing happen again. The next day I went out and bought 250 feet of chain and a 44 lb scoop anchor (West Marine's knock-off of the Rocna, which they don't make anymore because of patent infringement). I never had another anchoring problem with that boat for the remainder of my ownership, even with another 60,000 lbs+ of other boats rafted to me in the wind. ;-)

My current boat (OA 42 Sedan - 49 ft LOA / 26,000 lbs) has a 55lb Bruce/Claw anchor and 300 feet of chain. Never had a problem with it on any kind of bottom, though it doesn't catch and hold quite as solidly as the scoop. I don't like and don't trust Danforth anchors. Whatever anchor you do buy, get the biggest one you can comfortably wrestle in and out of the water (in your underwear, in the middle of the night, in winter).
 
A couple of tips: When I anchor, I stop the boat and set a new waypoint on the chartplotter, then immediately drop the anchor. In theory this marks the original location of the anchor. I often leave the chartplotter on for awhile, definitely do it if the anchor set doesn't feel very firm (as I back up, I grab the chain with my hand, you can feel it dragging). You can then watch your track, it should be an arc or points inside the arc. If it is a set of arcs moving backwards, you have a problem. I set the Go To point on the chartplotter at the anchor waypoint. If the plotter says the distance to the waypoint is increasing, you have a problem. If it says the distance to go is longer than the chain you veered, you may have a problem. If you have the power, leave it on overnight and look at the track in the morning - can give confidence of what happened while you slept.

Two, for crowds (or tight anchorages) I bought a golf laser range finder. Can be trained on the other boats, buoys, the shore, whatever. First thing I learned with this is the distances were almost always longer than I estimated. Second, it lets you keep track of any change of position.

The problem with phone and pad based anchor alarms is the GPS in them isn't very accurate.
 
A couple of tips: When I anchor, I stop the boat and set a new waypoint on the chartplotter, then immediately drop the anchor. In theory this marks the original location of the anchor. I often leave the chartplotter on for awhile, definitely do it if the anchor set doesn't feel very firm (as I back up, I grab the chain with my hand, you can feel it dragging). You can then watch your track, it should be an arc or points inside the arc. If it is a set of arcs moving backwards, you have a problem. I set the Go To point on the chartplotter at the anchor waypoint. If the plotter says the distance to the waypoint is increasing, you have a problem. If it says the distance to go is longer than the chain you veered, you may have a problem. If you have the power, leave it on overnight and look at the track in the morning - can give confidence of what happened while you slept.

Two, for crowds (or tight anchorages) I bought a golf laser range finder. Can be trained on the other boats, buoys, the shore, whatever. First thing I learned with this is the distances were almost always longer than I estimated. Second, it lets you keep track of any change of position.

The problem with phone and pad based anchor alarms is the GPS in them isn't very accurate.
If you have a phone you may want to download this app: Anchor Watch / Alarm - Apps on Google Play

I always set it on a phone and a tablet and when we use the anchor market buoy we go with the dinghy over the buoy and press current location. If we don't use the anchor marker buoy (due to depth of water or too crowded anchorage) we press current location next to our anchor winch. That way we have the precise location of the anchor, which comes in handy when you are anchored close to the shore. After all there is a big difference in distance between marking current position on the bow or on the stern.
As for GPS accuracy, once we set the anchor alarm we leave the tablet in the pilot house, where it has good reception and accuracy is always below 2 mtrs. The phone we put next to our bed, but then we take into consideration that the accuracy may go up to 10 mtrs. So the first thing to do, when the alarm goes off, is to check the accuracy.
On top of that, if the phone goes off, but the tablet is quiet, we know for sure it is the accuracy. Coupled with our way of anchoring we know we are safe, so that takes the stress out of an achor alarm.
 
Longer scope would likely show better behavior than he got. I prefer the somewhat more abusive worst case testing, knowing that most situations will be more friendly than the test conditions.
I think he could have done both, showing the value of additional scope.

Ted
 
The biggest culprit to anchor drag is a significant wind or current change so then the anchor has to reset. Scope and gear has been addressed on this thread but I do several additional things that you might find helpful. 1) We have cameras set up that views my Garmin plotter, along with voltmeter, bow, ect... 2) I have an anchor alarm app on my Iphone, 3) My wife has a different anchor alarm app on her Iphone. We spend time in the Bahamas and we mostly anchor out and when we are away from the boat and when we get nervous we pull up the cameras and check.

Bud
 
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I would be interested in Steve Mitchell's opinion regarding what anchor alarm systems he uses. I have a drag queen app but i havent used it.

Drag Queen is pretty basic, but it works OK. We began using that shortly after Jeff fielded it... well before he and Karen sold Active Captain to Garmin.

More recently, we've switched to using the anchor alarm on AquaMaps. Especially useful since we routinely use AquaMaps for back-up nav anyway. More features, including a reasonably easy way to set the anchor position after the fact. Jeff actually did the tutorial for it, too...

We could also use the anchor watches in our two MFDs... but they're up on the bridge so we might not hear an alarm... and I don't usually leave all that stuff up there on overnight anyway, partly for battery management (which we're still learning, on this boat).

-Chris
 
"don't anchor off a lee shore"

My biggest anchor worry is some (fill in appropriate voluminous evil epithets ) stealing my dinghy tied to my boat anchored in Fogg Cove St Michael's MD . First day of a week cruise, we were asleep aboard.......

I have to ask. Exactly where is Fogg Cove? Not seeing that named on my charts.
 
I have to ask. Exactly where is Fogg Cove? Not seeing that named on my charts.

The area along the "back side" of the museum, toward The Inn at Perry Cabin. Don't see it named on our charts either...





-Chris
 
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The biggest culprit to anchor drag is a significant wind or current change so then the anchor has to reset. Scope and gear has been addressed on this thread but I do several additional things that you might find helpful. 1) We have cameras set up that view my Garmin plotter, along with voltmeter, bow, ect... 2) I have an anchor alarm app on my Iphone, 3) My wife has a different anchor alarm app on her Iphone. We spend time in the Bahamas and we mostly anchor out and when we are away from the boat and when we get nervous we pull up the cameras and check.

Bud
The anchor only needs to reset if the amount of chain that you have put out is insufficient for the given windspeed. I know that sounds weird, but as i wrote before, the best approach is to let the anchor chain do all the work. When you then plan to have 10 mtrs of chain behind the anchor solid on the ground.......that will also be the pivot point and thus the anchor won't be pulled out.
It is a complete change from working with fixed scopes (3 : 1, 5 : 1 etc), because those scopes don't take into consideration the weight of the chain, nor the windspeed or current. Basically working with a fixed scope is just winging it. And in that case you may encounter a reset of the anchor and yes, then you need an anchor that can do that quickly.
 
It is a complete change from working with fixed scopes (3 : 1, 5 : 1 etc).........Basically working with a fixed scope is just winging it.
That seems a bit over the top. It seems obvious that a relationship between scope and depth is meaningful. How is that "winging it"?

I mean even you "just" using your chain to hold you..... do you put the same amount of chain (rode) out in every depth? Do you bother with an anchor on the end of it? (I think that even chain can become all taught in enough wind but it sounds like not yours?)

So you just put out X feet (or meters) of chain no matter the depth. Same every time?

I guess mainly I don't understand how using scope as a factor is winging it.
 
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(in your underwear, in the middle of the night, in winter).
Glad to hear I'm not the only one.

Something the GPS etc. doesn't show effectively is a boat that horses around. That motion is usually a sideways figure 8, with the boat going forward and slacking at the end of each swing. The track accurately shows the cresent, but not necessarily the speed. If you are getting cresent-shaped trails in the evening and the wind comes up, chances are you will really get to tugging on the anchor.

A few things I'd like to see on the YouTube anchor tests. First is a comparison from dry land 5:1 rode and in-the-water 5:1. Same load and look at what the chain's "bouyancy" does to the angle. The second would be a scale on the rode. Just how hard is the pull under various conditions? Does it double or triple the amount of load when the boat swings? I know that the load also increases when in your underwear in the middle of the night in winter. Sleet also increases the load. Still be interesting to see numbers.
 
A couple of tips:

Two, for crowds (or tight anchorages) I bought a golf laser range finder. Can be trained on the other boats, buoys, the shore, whatever. First thing I learned with this is the distances were almost always longer than I estimated. Second, it lets you keep track of any change of position.
We had an extra range finder in a drawer at home. Brought it to the boat and has been useful in this duty. We usually prefer to pick a near/far pair of landmarks as a reference position. However, the rangefinder is quite nice when the surroundings don't afford a good reference.
 
As far as I know, no phone and few pads are WAAS corrected. So 2 m accuracy is an illusion - may happen a lot of the time, but demonstrably not all the time.

The problem with scope as a metric is it does not account for the physics of catenaries. 5:1 in 20ft depth is very different than 5:1 in 100 ft depth, ignoring even the weight difference between different chains, and rope.
 
That seems a bit over the top. It seems obvious that a relationship between scope and depth is meaningful. How is that "winging it"?

I mean even you "just" using your chain to hold you..... do you put the same amount of chain (rode) out in every depth? Do you bother with an anchor on the end of it? (I think that even chain can become all taught in enough wind but it sounds like not yours?)

So you just put out X feet (or meters) of chain no matter the depth. Same every time?
The whole scope idea is based on wind and purpose.
So 3 : 1 is for a short lunch or swim break with no wind.
A 5 : 1 scope is for an overnite with no wind
A 7 : 1 scope is for an overnite with winds up to about 20 kts
A 10 : 1 scope is for an overnite with winds over 20 kts.

Now when you start calculating chain length in those situations you will find out that you can get close to what the math would also tell you.
As stated before the stronger the wind or the current the higher the counteracting force needs to be and that means more chain.

Let's say you want to anchor in 5 mtrs of depth and there will be max 2 Bft, then the wind force will be 6 N/m2. If you then have 25 m2 of frontal surface, the total force on your boat would be 150 N. My anchor weighs 50 kg, so that is already 500 N and the required chain to get to 5 mtrs of depth would be around 8 or 9 mtrs. At 4 kg or 40 N per mtr that would make it 320 - 360 N, which means that I would have a total of close to 850 N to counteract the 150 N the wind would put on my boat. So in theory I would be fine with just laying the anchor on the sea bed, not even setting it. And that is then for no waves, no current and no change in wind speed. As soon as there is a current or waves or a change in wind speed, you would need to change your calculations.
So for safety purposes all calculations start with a minimum of 4 bft.

If we would anchor at the same windspeed in e.g. 15 mtrs of depth then automatically we will have more chain, otherwise we don't reach the sea bed and we would just be floating. So that would be around 19 mtrs of chain for my boat, which is 76 kg, plus the 50 of the anchor, makes a total of 126 kg or 1260 N, which would be more than enough to counteract the 150 N the wind will put on the boat.

The problem is that in my area there is no accurate forecast, so I will never anchor with a guaranteed 2 Bft in mind. In 99 % of the time the forecast is not a little bit off, it is way off. There have even been times that 2 Bft was forecasted and in reality I had 12 Bft.

So the answer to your question is that in theory you could anchor based on the forecasted wind and if you would calculate it correctly you would be safe. However, any moment the forecast is off you could be dragging your anchor, since you have calculated for much less wind.

When you would calculate the required chain for 0 speed, 20 kts and 35 kts you will find out that you will be close to that 3 : 1, 5 : 1 and 7 : 1 . And that is also the explanation where that scope came from, since it did not get out of nowhere. The problem however is that it does remain a simplification of the math. May work 50 or even 90 % of the time, but it does not work 100 % of the time. Math does work 100 % of the time, that is the beauty of math in this case. It will tell you exactly what you need for a certain windspeed and current.
The main problem is that the forecasts are often way off and so it is up to you to choose wisely. Good part is that if you calculate for max 8 Bft and you find yourself in 10 bft you know instantly what to do. You don't need to raise the anchor, you just drop more chain and the dragging will stop.

As for taking the holding power of the anchor into my calculations ?
No I don't and I don't do it for a reason.
The anchor will have holding power as long as the shank is not raised more than 25 degrees off the sea bed.
Let's say the anchor has 2500 N holding power when it is dug in.
As soon as that shank is raised to 20 degrees that holding power is now only 1250 N.

If I would need e.g. 4000 N to prevent the anchor from dragging and the chain would provide 1500 N, i would be safe if the anchor shank is level with the sea bed. But as soon as that shank starts to raise I will be below that 4000 N and ultimately I will drag that anchor.
So in my calculations I will calculate the weight of the anchor, but not the multiplying factor which you get through anchoring in a certain type of sea bed. If the anchor has holding power then that is a bonus for me, it is an added safety, but not needed.

I have anchored in small coves where I dropped the anchor on one side of the cove, came 30 mtrs reverse to the other side of the cove and tied of the stern to the shore. Due to the depths of the water I had dropped the anchor in 8 mtrs, but in the middle of the cove it went down to 18 mtrs and then back up again to my boat. In total I did not have 30 mtrs out, but over 50 mtrs. My stern lines were as tight as could be and then I found out that the anchor was lying on some rocks, had not dug in at all. So all I was doing was lying on the weight of the chain and we stayed like that for almost 5 days. Most wind we had in that cave was perhaps 15 to 20 kts, but was no problem at all. I knew I had more than enough chain out to counteract the force that 15 to 20 kts could put on the boat...........even with the shore only a few meters away from the stern.
 
The anchor only needs to reset if the amount of chain that you have put out is insufficient for the given windspeed. I know that sounds weird, but as i wrote before, the best approach is to let the anchor chain do all the work. When you then plan to have 10 mtrs of chain behind the anchor solid on the ground.......that will also be the pivot point and thus the anchor won't be pulled out.
It is a complete change from working with fixed scopes (3 : 1, 5 : 1 etc), because those scopes don't take into consideration the weight of the chain, nor the windspeed or current. Basically working with a fixed scope is just winging it. And in that case you may encounter a reset of the anchor and yes, then you need an anchor that can do that quickly.
I went back and read your previous post and I must say I am interested. I understand that you do not want the shank of the anchor to lift at all. With that goal in mind you calculate the force of the expected wind and current with the Force equation (mass x acceleration) can you give me an example? Then you calculate the vessel resistance, bow and underwaterline, How do you do that? What formula? Then how does that info tell you the weight of the chain you need out.

Bud
 
The whole scope idea is based on wind and purpose.
So 3 : 1 is for a short lunch or swim break with no wind.
A 5 : 1 scope is for an overnite with no wind
A 7 : 1 scope is for an overnite with winds up to about 20 kts
A 10 : 1 scope is for an overnite with winds over 20 kts.
That sounds like a guideline from 50 years ago when everyone was anchoring with a CQR sized as "1 lb per foot of boat" or smaller, a mixed rode, etc. because anchors just weren't as good and most didn't have windlasses to reasonably haul up a big anchor and lots of chain on a regular basis. With modern gear, that's just insane. I can think of plenty of places where I've anchored where one, even 7:1 scope would mean carrying 350+ feet of chain, and 10:1 scope would be pushing the limit of fitting in there at all even with no other boats. There's just no need for that much scope with appropriately sized ground tackle, at least outside of very shallow water. The idea of "don't ever let the last link of chain lift" just isn't reasonable to achieve except in very deep water, and it's also not necessary for good holding.
 
@Mambo42 I'm not sure I totally digested your last reply, but what I think I understand you saying is that you are not saying not to calculate scope (which it sounded like to me like you were in your previous post). Rather you are saying that you basically always use a large scope ratio (eg 7:1 or more) no matter the forecast. IOW don't ever use 3:1 or even 5:1 because it is supposed to be light winds.

If I got that right, then that means you do still calculate how much rode to put out based on the depth. You just don't put out less scope for lighter weather (because it might change).

If that's true, then I wouldn't say calculating scope is "winging it." It sounds just like what I do every time I anchor (eg "okay depth is 12', plus 3' to my anchor roller = 15' so then 15 x 5 = 75' for 5:1 scope). Only you aim for a larger scope ratio. I do adjust based on conditions (somewhat on forecast but equally as much on how sheltered the area)

If I just didn't understand your last post, forgive me.
 
A few things I'd like to see on the YouTube anchor tests. First is a comparison from dry land 5:1 rode and in-the-water 5:1. Same load and look at what the chain's "bouyancy" does to the angle. The second would be a scale on the rode. Just how hard is the pull under various conditions?
Have you watched svPanope's anchor tests? He does them real world and provides numbers.
 
So you just put out X feet (or meters) of chain no matter the depth. Same every time?
No matter the depth, at 10 Bft I will have almost 200 N/m2 on the boat and I will need 200 x 26 (my total frontal surface) = 5200 N (minimum) to counteract that windforce.

My anchor delivers 500 N, so now I need 4700 N from my chain. At 40 N per meter I will need close to 120 mtr of chain. In deeper water I will also drop that amount (I have 140 mtrs of chain onboard, so I can also do that). In shallower water, where I may not have that much room around me (because of being close to the shore) I will drop as much as I can to stay in at least 2 mtrs of water. If I then would be able to only drop 90 mtrs of chain I need to know if that will keep the anchor shank below the 25 degrees.
And for that there is a quick reference. If the amount I can drop equals a scope of 5 : 1 or more then I know that I will stay below the 25 degrees, therefore I will have 60 % of the max holding power of the anchor. That holding power, plus the holding power of the chain should then be more than the 5200 N I need.

If I have a scope of 7 : 1 a stretched anchor chain would have an angle of 10 degrees with the sea bed, giving the anchor 70 % of the max holding power.

However, there is one big unknown. The max holding power of the sea bed is based on the type of sea bed, on whether the anchor is set well and the type of anchor. We never know if the sea bed is exactly as advertised, so that could create over confidence. We think we are dealing with thick mud, because that is what it says on the chart, but in reality we could just have found mud with sea weed on top of it or loose sand. Normally we only find out when we raise the anchor.
 
However, there is one big unknown. The max holding power of the sea bed is based on the type of sea bed, on whether the anchor is set well and the type of anchor. We never know if the sea bed is exactly as advertised, so that could create over confidence. We think we are dealing with thick mud, because that is what it says on the chart, but in reality we could just have found mud with sea weed on top of it or loose sand. Normally we only find out when we raise the anchor.
That's the big reason for overkill in anchor sizing and also powering back against it if setting in calm weather. The sizing should be generous enough to still give a good amount of holding power in a questionable bottom or at short scope. And the power test tells you that the anchor can set and hold at least some known test pull in the currently available bottom at the scope selected.
 
Okay thanks. I guess I still don't understand why you earlier said that calculating scope was "winging it." I appreciate your clarification though, thank you.
 
...The idea of "don't ever let the last link of chain lift" just isn't reasonable to achieve except in very deep water, and it's also not necessary for good holding.
Fully agree. One has only to see anchors holding well with a rope rode to disprove this belief.
 
@Mambo42 I'm not sure I totally digested your last reply, but what I think I understand you saying is that you are not saying not to calculate scope (which it sounded like to me like you were in your previous post). Rather you are saying that you basically always use a large scope ratio (eg 7:1 or more) no matter the forecast. IOW don't ever use 3:1 or even 5:1 because it is supposed to be light winds.

If I got that right, then that means you do still calculate how much rode to put out based on the depth. You just don't put out less scope for lighter weather (because it might change).

If that's true, then I wouldn't say calculating scope is "winging it." It sounds just like what I do every time I anchor (eg "okay depth is 12', plus 3' to my anchor roller = 15' so then 15 x 5 = 75' for 5:1 scope). Only you aim for a larger scope ratio. I do adjust based on conditions (somewhat on forecast but equally as much on how sheltered the area)

If I just didn't understand your last post, forgive me.
Unfortunately here in the Med the weather forecasts cannot be taken serious, so you basically have to come up with your own forecast. If you have a well sheltered bay it could be totally protected, but you could also end up with horrific catabatic winds and no those winds are not forecasted.
If you e.g. go to the Aegean in the period between May and end of September we have the Meltemi. That wind comes out of nowhere, appears in less than 5 minutes and can be 12 - 13 Bft and can last for weeks. For some reason the Greeks are still not able to forecast that wind.
In Croatia we are getting more and more extreme weather, due to climate change. So this summer we had thunder storms basically every other night. None of them were in the forecast, they would just build up and hit somewhere. Every other day we would hear gale warnings on channel 16 and that would then cover the complete coast of Croatia (nearly 600 nm). Those warnings were more to cover the behinds of the forecasters I guess, because forecasts like that are completely useless.
For that reason I indeed always anchor for safety, so a minimum of 40 kts, which means a lot of chain if I have the space around me. I never drop the calculated minimum because I know what can happen in the Med.

If I would be in Curacao (where I used to live) the weather forecast is always identical. Winds 080 - 120 with 15 G 25. That is the wind we have basically 350 days of the year, so in that case I would be more than happy to calculate for the gusts and also drop that amount. I know I would be safe, nothing would happen.
If I would be in a cove in BC where no sudden storms appear I would be perfectly happy to drop the exact amount I would calculate for that particular wind.
But unfortunately here in the Med that is not possible.
 
One thing I don't get is why would you not just put out 7 to 1, or more, every time? I get having to limit swing in a busy anchorage, but beyond that, all it means is stepping on the button a few seconds longer. A bit more chain to spray down afterwards. Who wakes up and says "dang it, it was a calm night and I put out an extra 20 ft of chain. Never again!"?
 
Fully agree. One has only to see anchors holding well with a rope rode to disprove this belief.
Normally only sailing vessels or very small motor boats will use a rope and just an anchor and the reason they can do that is because their total frontal surface is minimal. That means the total wind forces are much less than on e.g. a trawler and that means they don't need to counteract a lot of force.
So if they drop a lot of rope, keep the anchor shank below that 25 degrees they solely lie on the holding power of the anchor. However, if they don't drop enough rope and the wind does pick up beyond the holding power of the anchor............they will start to drag their anchor. And that is something I see here in the Med on a daily basis.
More often than not I see anchorages with 50 to 80 boats clear out in 5 min when the wind starts to pick up. None of them has anchored for higher wind possibility and off they go. Instead of dropping more chain they always opt to raise the anchor and move to another bay, it is like an exodus every time that happens.
 
One thing I don't get is why would you not just put out 7 to 1, or more, every time? I get having to limit swing in a busy anchorage, but beyond that, all it means is stepping on the button a few seconds longer. A bit more chain to spray down afterwards. Who wakes up and says "dang it, it was a calm night and I put out an extra 20 ft of chain. Never again!"?
Not that what you say is wrong (I mean, it would work of course), but what if someone else wants to come and anchor (at an appropriate distance)? If I'm in a sheltered cove and have out 10:1 but really 5:1 would be fine.... that's just a bit hoggish to my mind.

Of course I am not going to short myself on scope if I'm the first boat in a cove; but no need to just go wild either.

An example from this summer: I anchored for a known stormy night and put out around 8:1. I had one entire end of the cove to myself, because it was shallowish.

The next morning was calm and sunny, and clearly predicted to remain so. Another shallow-drafted boat came in (early) and was asking me about the situation (wanted to figure out if there was room for him, which was considerate). I said sure, just hang on a sec, I still have 8:1 out from last night but I'll shorten up to 5:1 and then if you anchor over there (I pointed), you should have enough depth and we'll both be happy.

If I had just anchored at 8:1 because hey it's only a few moments on the windlass, no-one else could have anchored at my end of the cove. (Maybe another boater would not have come close and asked -- or I could have been off on a hike if that's just "how I anchored in all conditions" and so they would just have had to go elsewhere.)
 
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The area along the "back side" of the museum, toward The Inn at Perry Cabin. Don
it see it named on our charts either...





-Chris


Thanks

Surprised to hear of any issue here being under so many watchful eyes. But maybe those eyes spotted an opportunity
 
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